ReCycled

So just a follow up and end of story; My MacGuyver skills failed me this time around. The part of the story I'd left out was someone had given the remnants of an old mercury crabstick. The collector at the bottom had lost its seal and in my testing process I realized the flexible tubing had become too soft over the years to yield accurate results. I started to search the internet for homemade designs and put together a parts list. During the Googling, the Pro Motion tool came up available at Revzilla … that was the lightbulb moment when I remembered I had store credit there after buying some riding gear a couple of years back. It was only going to cost me $50 to buy the right tool anyway. Bottom line; ten minutes to assemble tool and get familiar then ten minutes for fine tuning the adjustments

Thanks Craig I may just do that, It's been a year or two since I visited The Pagoda My first homemade attempt didn't go so well, just didn't seal well. Not that I'm really opposed to spending $100 for the tool, but I'm enjoying the chance to MacGuyver it. I did get them back to reasonably close using the single port gauge mode on my tester.

THANK YOU! This thread seems to have taken a turn. I'm waiting for some silicone sealant to dry then I will see if my first attempt of making a four port manometer was successful. I've made them for 2 cylinder bikes with nothing more than clear vinyl tubing and plywood. I've seen similar 4cyl versions using T fittings but I didn't have any... So I put all four tubes into a common container and sealed it.

Admittedly I have not checked valve clearance within the last 5000mi and have not checked compression, and yes I was working with the assumption that the motor was basically ok. Syncing the carbs mostly for peace of mind because I don't know when it was last done. The Harmonizer I have can measure vacuum with just one hose so I could measure each carb individually for reference. In the meantime, I think I will get to work on making my own four hose manometer. So can someone just confirm if my understanding is correct: a) The two Philips screws accessed from right side of the bike(one with long screwdriver) adjust balance single carbs front to rear. b) The one flat head screw accessed from left side of bike balance left bank to right bank.

Thank you. Funny that I hadn't noticed it being that far off before the new gearing.

I'm familiar with the Twinmax, though I'm using an electronic one called a Harmonizer. I like it better than the Twinmax because there's no calibrating and especially because it has a built in tachometer. I had found that helpful thread which was real nice because the manual really had me off. I think I'm following the instructions correctly, only difference being the 4-port vs 2-port tool.

Painless transaction and I'm happy with the results, The bike just seems to be in a better powerband most of the time now. One thing I hadn't thought to consider was whether the speedo pick up was on the ring gear or the driveshaft. The speedo and odo seem to registering about 9% fast according to my GPS. I'm sure someone has dealt with this before, is there a standard patch?

Having a little trouble and hoping for a little advise I don't have a 4cyl sync tool so trying to balance carbs in pairs. I see where the service manual got a little dyslexic and that didn't help but I searched here and see it wasn't just me, SO... First I synced #1(LR) to #2 (LF) using the hardest to reach screw #3 (long Philips from right side of bike) Then I synced #3 (RR) to #4(RF) using screw #2 on the right side of the bike But then I am unable to balance #2 to #3 Using screw above choke knob on left side of bike Basically I can sync each side front to rear but cannot get the two sides balanced, same results no matter checking 2-3,2-4,1-4,or1-3 Any thoughts? Oh, and I'm plugging the two open vacuum ports during all testing. TIA

I spoke with John yesterday and since I'm only an hour away, we're going to set up a time and he'll do it while I wait. So... what's the procedure for pulling the FD? Admittedly, I seem to have trouble translating the service manual to something I understand. But it looks like I need to remove the trunk, bags, hardware, brake caliper, and RH muffler just to pull the rear wheel. Is that all true? And is the FD itself pretty much just the speed sensor and four nuts? PS: after searching the site a bit more found info saying bags, mufflers and caliper should get the rear off...

Thanks for John's info. And it's a local phone number ! I will likely just take my FD to him if he's amenable, socially distanced of course Thanks all for the feedback.

I have an '06 REV with Hannigan sidecar. I have heard the Vmax has lower lower gearing that would add a little zip and possibly make 6th gear useful. I'm comfortable pulling the FD but not so much with taking a functional unit apart . Can anyone suggest a shop to do this? I had of one in PA but no further info on it... TIA

Yeah, that was my first thought when I saw the kit already installed and the discs were in spec. I decided to try new plates first as the P.O. said it worked well for ten years. After receiving the new the new discs I questioned whether I shouldn't do both as a belt-n-suspenders approach. I didn't want to lose another week so I improvised. I installed a (2mm?) Washer under each spring, hoping to give them a little more oomph. Knowing how easy it is to service this area, it's not a big deal if I need to upgrade the springs.

Thanks muchly guys! I didn't see the last two responses until now, but I went ahead and ordered the Barnett pressure plate and gasket and then opened it up. A couple of things making this project different is that the bike and I are not at the same place with the new "stay in place" orders. Another issue is access to the clutch is hindered by the sidecar. Though that is a mixed blessing as once I loosened the upper struts, I can lean the bike way over and the oil became a non-issue. So imagine my surprise when I opened it up and saw a Barnett pressure plate already installed. I realized that I may still have the PO's email address and contacted him to see if he could offer any insight. Seems the Barnett plate and discs went in ten years ago when he installed the sidecar. The friction discs still measured over over 3mms and everything looked good, but being more parts changer than mechanic means I don't always recognize an issue. Figuring the ten year old may be glazed or contaminated, I ordered a new set from Barnett. I soaked the new set in oil overnight and got back to it today. The new and old solid discs are different. The stacks measured the same but the face of the old discs had dimples and the new are perfectly flat. I liked the dimple idea better and decided to reuse so I scuffed up the old ones in a cross hatch pattern and reassembled. After all was back together, I decided to bleed the hydraulics again in case there were any contaminates after last year's flush. I was only able to squeeze in a 10-15 minute test ride but the results are promising. The friction zone is much larger, no longer at the end of the lever throw. Neutral seemed easy to find. I wasn't out long enough to get the oil HOT, nor try hard acceleration in 4th or 5th, but it didn't slip in 3rd as it had sometimes before. I'm calling it a success. The best part is finding how easy the procedure is. Oh, and there will be a brand new Barnett pressure plate available at a good price in the classifieds soon

Thanks for the replies. The links are very helpful. The process looks simple, the service manual doesn't really distinguish levels of difficulty. By shadetree, I have lots of hours in my own garage but my torque wrench, caliper, and mc lift are all from Harbor Freight After some reading here, I'm thinking the Barnett route is the way I will go as I don't like a reduced friction zone. So the plan is to order the Barnett kit and new gasket, disassemble and measure the friction discs. Does anyone with experience with the Barnett kit have any special thoughts? Again, thanks for the guidance.

Background: '04 RSV 50k miles, most of which lugging sidecar. Though only 2k? Since purchased from original owner last year. Symptoms: friction zone is small and in first 1/2" of lever throw yet still creeps in gear. Considerable slippage in at least three gears under hard acceleration, like while passing. Neutral becomes difficult to find when stopped after getting to full temperature. I did the flush the clutch fluid with no change and out in fresh dino oil with only modest improvement. Is it time for friction plates? Is this a shadetree mechanic project? Doesn't look to bad in the service manual, except one specialty tool. Thanks in advance.

I own a couple of bikes and that can mean one will sit longer than expected after its last use, especially in the colder months. So I like to run the carbs dry on my gravity fed bikes after each ride. The RSV is my first carb'd bike with a fuel pump and I've been shy about running it dry intentionally. I don't like gas to sit in the carbs for weeks or more... is there an easy way to avoid this? TIA

Update: After realizing how easily a replacement could be found, I was encouraged to simply cut the "heel pad" portion of the shifter off. This was the perfect answer. Plenty of room for multiple foot positions now and heel upshifting is easy and seemingly unaffected. If I point my toes outward, my heel naturally comes to rest on top of what is left of the shifter. Two minutes with a sawzall and a grinder and I'm very happy with the new arrangement.

I'm interested in ditching my heel/toe shift. Not that I don't like using it but it's limiting my options for foot placement, I like the balls of my foot near the back of the floorboards. I think my used RSV may have an after market shifter as it matches the fancy handgrips. It appears to be a one-piece assembly and I'd prefer to not just cut it off. Is anyone aware of a compatible toe only shifter? Or does anyone have an extra h/t shifter they'd like to sell? TIA

Turns out I have a buddy with an extra cop seat so I'll give that a go first. If that doesn't work so well I'll have the pillow top reshaped.

New guy with what will likely sound like a weird question... I have an '05 RSV with pillowtop seat. I want to sit further up and rearward, any suggestions? The bike that has the best ergos for me is an HD Electraglide Police special. Has anyone ever fitted an air ride Harley Police saddle?

As long as I'm throwing tire choice questions out there, what about radial vs bias ply? I see both as being listed.

Thanks for the feedback. Just starting this thread offered other related threads that answered many questions about brands and sizes that I was unable to find in my search. Just to confirm something a bit more sidecar specific; No one is mentioning wheel replacement or modification, can I assume everyone is still running the stock wheel/rim? I know auto tire beads and mc tire beads are different. Does the added lateral stress of sidecar use vs a two-wheeler have any ill effects? TIA

Greetings! New RSV('05) owner here with Hannigan sidecar. The bike's pusher has plenty of tread left but I'm researching darkside options. Looking for longevity and possible overall gear reduction, ok, cheaper replacement doesn't hurt either . I did a search but may have missed something as I'm new to the forum and still feeling my way around. New to RSV's but not sidecars, just looking for advise about rear tires for now. Thanks in advance. DB