coolwind57
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Posts posted by coolwind57
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Happy to report that I've got two days so far with ZERO indicators on my CMS display! I've got my fingers crossed that they won't come back. After writing my last post, I also swapped out my stereo--soldering and sealing up all my connections. I don't know what I may had done to fix this issue other than just the process of messing with and jostling the wiring throughout the bike. Wish I could point out one magic thing that did it.
Anyhow, no low-battery warning, no-low engine oil. For the first time in a looooong time, I'm NOT seeing a red flashing LED in my face. Feels good.
So if you too have CMS gremlins, the solution is very simple fellas: Just put in a different stereo. haha
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Looks like you'd have very little room to get your key in your Yamaha trunk to open it. Do you have a solution or is it not a problem?
I like what you'd done. I'm sure it's functional and works for you. You're making it yours, man and that's cool.
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Well I've had my 83 standard xvz1200 for going on two years now, 1-1/2 riding seasons here in Southern Indiana. Since I've had her, I've been plagued with CMS issues--always something going off on the display, causing that annoying red LED to fire. In the past, it's intermitten kickstand. After going LED on the headlight, I jumpered the low and high headlight within the CMS, so that took care of that one. I would occasionally get the "Brake Fluid Level" symbol as well, although fluid levels were fine. My "Remaining Fuel indicator" worked about 50% of the time, coming off and on whenever it felt mischievous.
Last Month, I picked up a used low-mile instrument cluster on eBay for cheap. I swapped the CMS as well as the temperature gauge and clock, both of which were not working. I changed the oil last week, but I've begun to receive the engine oil level indicator on occasion....especially during the first few minutes of a fresh ride. I find that that it usually goes away after I'm up at cruising speed. But it sometimes returns in idle traffic and usually starts it's irritating cycle again once I park and restart again.
I have the factory oil filter setup, so no adapter. I used a new K&N oil filter, new spring washer (Previous Owner must had lost the old one, so there wasn't on in there when I took it apart--I read this is common unfortunately). I properly filled with dang-near 4 quarts of 10w-40 motorcycle synthetic oil.
Today, I jumpered the CMS just as I had done the last one. That took care of the high and low headlight indicator. I also removed the RLU and soldered the correct wires as advised by folks here on the forum. I'm reading that the RLU unnecessarily robs some electric--again, I had went to an LED headlamp last Summer anyway. I'm kinda praying that the RLU removal will help matters.
Ok, so now I have a first: My battery fluid level light is coming on about 50% of the time. I did do the 20k ohm resistor fix last year and that eliminated indicator back then. I'll unwrap the resistor it tomorrow and see if perhaps it became compromised.
So I'm very happy that I seem to have gotten most of my old problems solved today. But after my work, I still have these new issues:
1. Engine Oil Level--on 75% of the time when I start engine. 50% of the time, it goes away at cruising speeds. Double-checked my brand new oil levels in site glass window. All good.
2. Battery Fluid Level--Sometimes comes on at starting, sometimes just randomly during cruise. Alltogether, I see it on about 50% of the time.
Does everyone else suffer like this? I've disconnected nearly every #@!% connector I can find on this bike. cleaned as best I could with electronics cleaner.
Do we have ground issues on these 1Gen bikes? Should I be adding a ground somewhere, perhaps? Do these CMS just age and act crazy like this and we should just accept them being nutty at this age? Any particular ideas for the two new items I am now plagued with?
My bike as 30K original miles. Appreciate any enlightenment, fellas.
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Hi Coolwind57
Have you pulled the hoses off to inspect the fitting on the reservoir and MC , is barbed on both? it could be possible to make a steel line to fit?
you have a few potential leak points in that setup even eliminating a couple would ease the mind, just my 2 cents.
Hermank84VR
I haven't yet pulled them. I will probably do so this weekend. I was thinking the same way on all those joints. If I can go steel, I will but I'm thinking they're likely barbed under there. If I have to use rubber, I'll certainly run a single piece. That metal 90 that the PO used seems a bit unnecessary.
Cowpuc: I see what you're seeing in the picture, but I don't recall seeing a viewing window when I inspected the reservoir live. I'll look again tomorrow, as I've retired for the night. By the way, I feel like I'm talking to a celebrity....you're kind of famous Cowpuc!
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Please let me know as I too am looking for a Mark's collector.
Ok, Mark called me back today. He says he still has the equipment to do the 1Gen collector and is willing to do them if anyone's interested. He uses stainless steel and they're $295 (I'm almost positive of that price, but I left my notes at work...just check with him to confirm). He said that everytime he goes to get rid of his 1Gen Venture collector maker due to unuse, he gets another call for one. Says calls for them are few and far between these days, which is unfortunate.
Anyhow, timelines vary. At the present moment, he's really far behind--as in like 5-6 weeks. Over Christmas, he joked that he could've had one out the door in a day or two. Again, it all depends on his present workload.
The guy is really nice, down to Earth and took a huge amount of his time talking motorcycles with me, even though I made it clear that I was just looking in to budgeting one of his collectors at this time and not placing an order.
I strongly suggest those interested in Mark's collector to get one soon before he decides to no longer do them for our bikes. I'm still trying to come up with a budget plan, but I'm definitely interested in one by the Summer anyhow. Let me know if others are interested and maybe he'd be willing to knock out several at once and save us all a buck or two.
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As long as that rubber hose is brake line hose, and none of the joints are leaking, and the reservoir seals air tight, it should be fine.
That said it looks like rubber fuel line that will break down in contact with brake fluid.
That metal joint looks like a threaded electrical conduit fitting with the rubber hose trying to seal on the threads.
The reservoir looks to be all metal, but I doubt if it has a bladder in it to stay air tight while still allowing for expansion and contraction of the fluid.
Yes, I believe it is rubber fuel line and it does appear to be breaking down. I see some aging, dry rot-like appearance. I was thinking the same thing on that metal joint. Rather unconventional! I think his intent was to provide for a more precice 90-degree turn than what rubber hose itself would do.
The reservoir itself appears to be of nice quality, perhaps painted billet aluminum if my guess is correct. It does have internals, so it appears legitimate inside. I've not see one like it. Seems to work well, so I think I'm ok with it.
I'll ask around to find and correct brake fluid compatable hose and get that old one off of there.
I'll see if I can rig up a heat shield as well--but according to my manual, the original reservoir is mounted in about the same spot....is this not correct?
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Just wanted to share a photo I took today after I performed my oil change. I remember the PO telling me that the rear master cylinder resevior had been replaced. Here's his aftermarket solution. Curious of your opinions, fellas....
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Got windshield that was on it when i purchased it. Clear top to bottom. Glare comes from behind or over shoulder. That large plastic sheet over the panel acts like a arc welder when sun hits it. Even with polarized sun glasses on. After I got speedo quieted down now I hear other noises. Will work on those as I can. Thanks everyone for your help. sandy
This is a very old post, but I thought I'd share something that helped me with dash glare for those that experience this discomfort.
I took my gauge face off and sprayed it with flat black paint. Hardest part (slowest) was taping the clear and warning/turn signal areas up. It helps considerably. I will still get some glare from the clear areas at times, but it is minimal. I was getting the majority of the glare from the black areas of the entire gauge face and this really helped tremendously.
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Dude. I'm in awe. Freakin' love it.
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Seems to me about a half year ago somebody did buy one but had a couple of issues getting it to fit. Please let me know as I too am looking for a Mark's collector. Several people were happy with them!
The other alternative is finding a good colector on eBay. There is a shield internally that is common to break off requiring surgery to fix.
If you are experiencing exhaust leaks did you replace the gaskets on the pipes?? Those copper flanges should ideally be replaced just like you would replace a copper crush washer...
I left a message to Mark, but he hasn't returned my call in several days.
I didn't replace gaskets because the collector itself is broken at the joints. I'd tried sealing up with weld (while still installed) as a half-@ss fix, but not so successful. I really ought to just buy a used one and install it right if I can't get Mark to fab one for me.
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So, I struggle with getting good search results here. But I just ran across an older post on Mark's custom collectors. Anyone gotten one recently? If so, happy? I'll call and/or e-mail tomorrow to see if he's still making them.
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I'm curious if anyone has ever removed the exhaust collector altogether and ran a custom exhaust. I had damaged my collector, jacking my bike up with it when I first bought it. I caused all kinds of leaks at all the joints, which I've been welding as best I can without removing it all and doing it properly. This guy is the only person I've yet seen to do a custom exhaust, not involving the collector:
http://www.kloppenberg.us/chopper.html
I'd love to see what he used and exactly how he did it. Though its one of the coolest things I'd ever seen done to a Venture, I have no plans to go to that extreme. I'd like to figure out how to route them with my stock xvz1200. The pipes coming off that rear head would be the trickiest, I'd assume.
Anyone beside this guy try and have success?
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It ended up being my valve stem leaking. With soaping down the wheel/tire, the only bubbles I were getting was at the valve stem opening where the schrader is (I think).
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If the bead had somehow come off with proper air pressure you would have known it. it would have sounded like a bomb went off under you with the sudden release of air pressure. I am betting that you were riding on a nearly flat tire and the application of torque allowed you to spin the rim out of the tire. You will have to do some sleuthing to figure out why the pressure was so low in the first place.
I would inspect the tire inside and out for any damage and if good would remount it and not worry. If the tire is scuffed on the inside or out side then I would worry.
That makes sense. Well, I got the wheel off and let it sit in the son for a couple hours. Shot some air in there while sitting on it and the dang thing re-seated. Checking for leaks with soapy water now. How important is it that the little yellow/orange painted dot on the tire line up with the valve stem of the wheel?
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Ok, wierdest thing ever happened to me.
I'm cruising at 60-miles per hour from a rehearsal last week. Was driving about 5-6 minutes total with no issues whatsoever and came to stop light. Just as I began to accelerate on the green light, my rear end felt like it was trying to pull from a pool of oil or something. I pulled the bike over to the side of the road to discover that the tire was completely flat and coming off the rim.
This is a new tire, Kenda Kruz with maybe 400-miles on it.
Towed it home the next day and I'm taking the wheel off later today, as I've finally found some time to finally work on it. So far upon inspection, I have found zero nails/screws/objects that had penetrated the tire. Side walls appear fine.
I'm perplexed and the only thing I can come up with is that maybe my tire pressure was really low or something and I wasn't aware. I had gotten out of the habit of checking tire pressure before each operation. I suppose that's not healthy. I just can't believe that I had experienced absolutely no negative ride quality up until I stopped at that light.
I'll take the wheel off and take it to the tire shop that sold and installed it. Perhaps there is a bad area on the bead area of the wheel. Perhaps I have a leaking valve stem and was slowly leaking air. Now, I'm really concerned about using that same tire (if in fact there's no penetrations and otherwise appears ok). I wonder if belts were damaged while that 800lbs bike sat on it before I got it back to my garage.
Anyone else experience anything like this? Should I toss this 400-mile new tire?
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I'm going to give this HIPA fuel filter a try (replaces Briggs & Stratton # 695666 and 691035). It has a clear body, 1/4" inlet and outlet, and fits nicely in the original fuel filter bracket. $8.87 for a 2-pack. It passed the first test today and flows tons of fuel...as fast as the fuel pump can cycle. I'll let you know if I have any future problems with it. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XRNYHK8/
https://www.venturerider.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=114347
I also took off the old spring-style fuel line clamps and put on new fuel injector style clamps. They look nice, are much more compact than worm-style gear clamps, and tighten down the hose quite nicely even if the hose is a little stretched out. On the old red fuel hose up to the carbs, I like how the pressure is evenly distributed across the entire width of the clamp rather than being concentrated in just the two spots where the wires are with the original screw-down wire clamps. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071GFC9RN/
https://www.venturerider.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=114397
Looks pretty spiffy when it's all put together.
https://www.venturerider.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=114411
Took your idea on these filters and bought them. The fit was a little loose on my existing fuel hoses, but I followed up with geared hose clamps. The plastic nippes on either end will collapse if you overtighten, so use caution, fellas. Rode her tonight and no issues. My old filter had rust in it!
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I have this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013MDDEAO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I love it. Super secure. I mounted it next to clutch resevior.
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I'm rebuilding the front forks on my '93 Venture. I ordered replacement Spring Valves, P/N 26H-2319M-00-00 (referred to as "special washers" or "wavey washers" in the service manual). They go on the bottom of the damper rod. Unfortunately, Yamaha has them on backorder for another 5 weeks. I can't wait that long.
Here are my existing washers. I'm going to reuse them if they're still serviceable. They're smooth, still wavey along one axis, and plenty springy. If you've ever seen these things brand new, do mine still look like they're serviceable and bent (or wavey) the requisite amount?
https://www.venturerider.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=114237
https://www.venturerider.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=114238
I'd recommend you get them off of Ebay. There's at least three supplier there that have them. You'd likely receive them in a few days. In my opinion, a visual inspection of the old ones is not adequate to determine whether they're still good or not. Man, they're old. That's a lot of work you're doing during this rebuild to rely on aged spring washers.
Good luck. I just did this rebuild a couple of weeks ago. Takes guts to dig in and do this job yourself. I was intimidated but pushed through.
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I like your wondering. You'll probably find more guys that have gone to the dark side with a car tire on the back then you will that have changed the carbs
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It's my understanding that 1st Gen guys have not really found a compatable car tire yet. I've searched here and have zero results on finding a 1st Gen darksider.
I am a former Darksider on a Honda Pacific Coast (PC800). I rode for two years before selling the bike. If I ever buy another PC800, going darkside will be one of the first things that I'd do.
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I think 500 is a bit steep to do an experiment that very few have done. But think if it thus way it would be like taken a 2.8 Chevy v6 multiport fuel injection back to a fuel injected throttle body carb. That is my opinion on the matter.
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According to the seller, it's no experiment: "We've been doing this conversion for over 8 year now, so we have personally installed tons of these sets in the past 8 years, so know all there’s to know about this conversion."
I'm certainly not sold on it yet, but I look at the idea this way: It's like taking a more complicated, leak-prone--and for the average owner--harder to adjust, troubleshoot, synchronize and rebuild carburator to one that is simplier, less expensive-and-easier to manage. But I'd really like to hear opinions from those whom had done this conversion. Otherwise, we're all guessing.
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I haven't but a few have. It does not run as good with that swap so I've been told. You get your most power and efficiency with a separate carb for each cylinder...
That certainly makes some sense. I'm a bit intrigued due to the much-lower maintenance and overall ease of adjustment. The idea of its simplicity is appealing.
I'd love to hear from anyone who's done it. Very curious if there's regrets or if they feel they'd never go back.
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what wrong with yout carbs
I'm not saying anything is wrong with my carbs. I'm asking if anyone's done this swap.
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I'm seeing this on Ebay. Anyone done this swap?
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I went 5.5" on oil level, but I had my forks removed and measured with forks straight up and down (I had done a total fork rebuild). I pumped upper/lower sections occasionally as I slowly added oil. I then added my Progressive springs, installed 5/8"-cut PVC with factory washers on both sides and placed my threaded cap on. I then installed the forks on my bike, connecting everything including the anti-dives.
I'm 225 and my wife is 120lbs. I've been riding and I'm thrilled how much better the ride is.
Just sharing my experience with new Progressives.
TCI Relocate done today
in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
Posted
Thought I'd share a pic of my newly completed TCI relocate job today. For the benefit of others who are considering this, here's what I did:
1. Removed battery, battery box and complete air box. There's two bolts holding on the battery box, 10mm. The air box has two hoses coming up and connecting to the bottom, so expect them when you're trying to pull the lower box from the carbs.
2. I used the ol' hacksaw blade method of removing the TCI. I was relocating it anyway, so I didn't bother with trying to remove it via the hard-to-get-to screws on the bottom. I simply ran my hacksaw blade along the channel that you'll see at the top of the mounting tabs. I cut nearly all the way through but you probably won't get 100%. I snapped it off the tabs with a flat blade screwdriver.
3. I unplugged and cleaned the contacts. I removed the lid to the TCI and baked the unit in my stovetop oven using the convection setting at 200-degrees F for 90-minutes. This was to completely dry out the unit, which I suspected some dampness inside due to a dumb washing I performed a while back.
4. Installed battery box, battery and air box. Fished the TCI harnesses (2 of them) along side the air box. There was just enough length to do this. The TCI fit nicely inside the battery box between it and the air box. THe PO had put in a more narrow battery, so I took advantage of the open space. With the factory battery hold down securing it along with the battery, she's nice and secure.
My TCI is now much safer from water now. And much easier to get to the next time it needs attention.