.45Cole

Thanks for the lead cimmer, pulled the trunk and it looks like the oil is coming from the compressor SOMEWHERE, but can't really see where (even rolling it over). Seem reasonable to assume that one of the shocks is leaking oil at the air/oil seal and running back into the compressor during bleedoff? If this is the case, then I can just keep the air settings on the shocks and worry about it over winter, not intentionally releasing pressure?

I got the old girl out (first time this year) before a big ride coming up and it looks like there was oil coming from the rear tire. Played with the air spring settings and I think I have a little more oil - behind the rear tire. Looked up inside the well and there was oil on the mudflap and looks like it is coming from one of two hose ends that vent into the rear well right behind the licence plate assembly. Anybody know what these hoses go to? I'd take a wild guess they vent the air shocks and the oil is indicative of a bad shock (but only one). 87 venture royale, ~60k mi

I have a stock size cobra from last year on the back I'll prob get another season or two from but I need to replace the front this season. I was planning on the cobra but if everyone likes the E4 then I can try that, Mountain riding with lots of curves, can get wet but it hibernates over winter. Can I do the E4 front/cobra back? What do you guys recommend for 1up touring size, 120/90-18?

Pull the carbs and clean them. Rebuild kits are $20/ea and the work is really easy, just takes time. I'm going to post a rehash on pulling/cleaning carbs as I think new part numbers and such are in order. Cleaning them really isn't hard and they are easier to pull/replace than I had ever thought. I'm not a mechanic nor a longtime VR owner. Ask if you need help.

Thanks for the replies, I know the 1200 and 1300 venture rear ends look different, and cost different on fleabay, so I figured they didn't bolt up (but it makes sense that yami wouldn't change a good thing and retool). If somebody knows for sure if a 1200 diff will bold up to the 1300 please speak up, and I'll just buy one on ebay and be done with it,

I have an 87 VR with a decel gear whining that I'm 90% positive is a busted pinion nut. I'm wondering what will swap with the 1300 rears, will a second gen swap? I'm assuming that the 120 VR and Vmax will not swap I(maybe just the pinion?). I'd like to swap entire rears as I've got a trio coming and don't have time to monkey around. i hear that the nut keeps the mesh correct on the gears, and when busted allows the mesh to slip a little on decel causing the whine. Everything is under spring t4ension and there isn't anywhere for the nut to go so I've been riding it, but I'd like to get it fixed to clear my mind.

Update- I pulled the air module off the console and pulled it apart following the tech write up to get to the board. Didn't really look like I had a problem with any, but two looked a little suspicious. Soldered them (horrible job, figured I burned the board and for sure messed it it) plugged everything back together and IT WORKED PERFECTLY! +1 on being a venturerider member! I'll get used to the neutral switch start (can't start in gear) and the jiffy stand engine cut (in gear drop jiffy stand and bike engine cuts out). I'm about 80% sure the gear whining in from a broken nut on the pinion. I don't think it's a problem if I'm careful until the new rear end shows up.

I have rehab'ed a 87 VR to roadworthy condition. Took complete carb work and some cables+ lots of brake work but I'm pretty happy with it. It does have a few probs: E1 on the shock adjust, will not run in auto but will eventually switch over to manual and pressure up. Anybody have an idea/ common failure? Loud gear winning noise on deceleration (when compression braking), seems like it's coming from right under me, any thoughts? I saw the rear shaft grease service, will check there and fluid in drive shaft Battery indicator warning, PO told me he replaced orig batt with one without accomodation for fluid level wire. Any workaround? Stereo, will not work without being hooked up to cassette player via din cord, will eventually link to mp3, but would like workaround for now Would like to disable the start in neutral switch I'm sure a few of there are already covered (batt, neutral switch, stereo) but i figured I'd ask if I was already posting, I'll look up some issues tomorrow, gear winning is the largest problem.

I had fixed the surging, it was the #3 throttle cable tension. Once backed off, I can pop the throttle and she comes back down nicely. The new adjustment on the #3 throttle cable also really allows the idle speed screw to dial in the idle.

I guess "surging" isn't quite the right term then. If I popped the throttle (quickly open it) she would rev up, and then keep revving. A pop from idle to say 2500 would keep creeping to say 3500 before I had to physically turn the throttle back or push the throttle linkage on the carb. Adjusting the tension on the #3 throttle cable (I replaced the cable during the carb rebuild so the adjustment was already suspect) solved the issue and she revs and comes down quite well. The spring back on the throttle is a little weak, is the adjustment/spring controlled in the linkage with the cruise control?

Got it! For anybody that hits this on a search: I started at 2.5 turns out on the air/fuel screws (A/F) from closed (prev owner lived down the street so I knew it was properly jetted for my altitude, 6,500') and let it warm up. Take off the choke and adjust idle speed to keep it running initially, then once I progressed I targeted 1050+/- 100rpm. Once warm I started syncing each bank (ie left side and right side) using the sync screws to itself while adjusting the idle speed, I have a 4x manometer setup and an inductive rpm from the timing gun. Rev the bike a couple times after a turn on the sync screws (throttle setting). The motor will tell you what's going on. Mine hesitated and then surged, running better and giving better response once revs were up, pipes pop on decel. Needs leaned out so I turn the A/F screws in 1/4 turn and keep going about the syncing (adjusting all carbs each setting, I'll go back later and sniffer the different banks to a better adjustment once I get a sniffer). Once at a decent setting, I synced the two banks to eachother, not perfectly but close. The engine speed is constantly changing and so I keep it dialed in. Once everything seems synced, rev it up again and adjust the air/fuel mix. Took two iterations but I have great response, no popping, and as I was syncing (and going in the right direction) the vacuum steadily rose and it started acting like it should. As just about anything is changed, the idle speed will change so I kept up with it keeping it ~1050rpm. I took the carbs off the bike and completely disassembled/cleaned them and replaced the #3 throttle cable then the carbs went back in so I was in for the full treatment: A/F settings, sync each carb to it's partner in its bank, sync the banks, idle speed, tension on the throttle cable at the carb. Took about 10 min so it's definately mechanically easy, just took attention to detail. Now on to the brakes.

What's the best way to get the air/fuel adjustment from scratch, or is there an accepted setting from the factory? Completely went through them and figured I'd just reset the mix via vacuum but I didn't figure on the carbs being out of sync, 2 equations and 2 variables so I've got a problem. I think I found the sync setting with the manometers but the idle really takes off, is there an idle adjust somewhere? 87 VR

K&L rebuilds off fleabay for $20 some each. Did all 4 for 87, doesn't have all the screws or rubber plugs but all the o rings and the two gaskets + needle and seat. I'd highly recommend them, just clean off the rubber plugs and clean the jets. I used an acidic detergent in the heated ultrasonic. You're going to ask this next, JBM industries has the main diaphragms for 20/each, I think they're all pinholed after 30years.

Found a frayed throttle cable, easy to replace? Looks like they're not budget busters. I'll do a write up with what I found/used for the carb rebuild. Need JIS screwdrivers, need k&L rebuild kit (has both jet block and choke block gaaskets), JBM makes new diaphragms which don't require the two plastic washers (they're new and $20/ea so you might as well buy them now and hoard them). My slide diaphragms were pinholed from folds on 2x carbs (haven't got to the other two yet) and the pilot was like most I've done, easy to just use extractor to bring it out rather than maul the slot. Did round a few screwheads before i found out they were JIs, irwin extractor kit + drill worked well as always (great investment at ~$30). Air passageways were oiled up and also full of yellow gas. I had tried running "Mechanic In A Bottle" through the system and it is apparent that the solvent was dissolving the junk by the plethera of yellow gas residue, just couldn't get to the air passages. Will prob do a puke bottle in the airbox for the crankcase ventilation.

Thanks guys, I appreciate it. I looked over the setup last night and it looks like there's only two cables visible and a few simple lines. Should be easy. I figured I'd take a whole bunch of pics so reassembly is easy. Does anybody know if the carbs for a v max and venture 1300 cross over, might be cheaper to buy the v max label than the venture label? Thanks on the carb rebuild, might have to do that if I get sideways during the rebuild.

Got a '89 with ~55k miles for $1k in really good condition. Wouldn't hold idle without choke, bogs a little when you get going. Guy said he ran some cleaner through and it got a little better. I bought it and it sat for a month or so and has been a little worse, but now really stinks like gas (exhaust too) when idling with choke. Bogs pretty bad on acceleration. Would just try cleaner but I pulled the air box off and it really stinks up top of gas. Two carbs (left side as sitting on bike) even had a little gas visible. The motor and carbs on tje left side are really dirty and oiled up, but I'm thinking they're from gas leaking. Make sense or is a known problem? They look easy enough to pull out and I'll clean them once out. No problems with ultrasonic cleaners? Is the oily dirt due to valve cover gaskets or some sort of leak in the carb? Are the jet looking screws visible from up top leading to bowl (as in can I drain bowls and blast cleaner through in hopes of getting to pilot?)