Neil86
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Posts posted by Neil86
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Definitely.....there needs to be a gap between pickup coil and spinning rotor.
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Usually if my battery is almost dead and I try a start I get the speedometer sweep after letting go of starter button.
I see in another thread you mentioned buying the bike in March 2013, so the age of the battery is unknown, correct?
I would test voltage at battery posts (not cables) while trying starter button, before condemning battery. I would hate to have you buy a new battery needlessly, and still have the problem.
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Any chance the bike is still under warranty....it was 5 years from in service date...some sat on the showroom for a year or so.
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Even though its in neutral and normaly would crank, try starter with sidestand up and clutch pulled in, just in case the interlocks are not seeing the bike in neutral. If that works then you have more clues as to area to focus on.
You might first try jiggling key in ignition switch in case its failing.
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Just from what I've read on the forums...the Ignitech is only using 2 pickup coils probably to allow more engines to use same TCI.
This long thread started by Todd (TVking63) discusses a lot of things about the design.
It seems odd to me that you would have a dead TCI with anyone of 3 of the 4 pickups unhooked, would have expected only 2 would have any effect on the unit since the others aren't used.
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I would be surprised that the stock TCI is looking at all 4 pickup coils to determine if the engine stopped....as I know of several cases where there is a bad set of pickup coils
(they are in 2 pairs) and it runs on 2 cylinders. Ignitech might have a different strategy...and doesn't Ignitech only use 2 of the pickup coils and the other 2 are jumpered in the harness?
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Are you referring to the Computer Monitring System on the dash?
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Many years ago Yamaha released a service bulletin on the CLASS system.
One issue is a cracked or broken reed valve.....its made of plastic and mounted where the hose from drier connects to the solenoid block.
The reed valve acts as the check valve to prevent air leaking back into compressor once compressor shuts off.
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When you say you have to put TCI in freezer to get it to run, do this include the initial start today...or after it quit the first time.
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The black you spliced is the main ground from the TCI.....it can have continuity but be unable to carry the full current from the igntion system....heating up and dropping current more etc etc till TCI shuts down.
Try to test the TCI voltage while its briefly running versus the black to see if theres a grounding issue. You might have normal voltage
to TCI vs the battery negative but be low tested against the black wire (before the splice).
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If you can, retest pickup coil resistance with engine at normal op temp. There have been cases where they test fine cold but go open when at operating temperature.
Because the temp is warmer, it will typically test higher on the resistance than the book spec but should be even across all 4 pickup coils.
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Doug
I think if you test your LED bulb base on the 2 power pins you will find continuity in both directions so they have no diode to block backfeed.
I don't agree its grounding back to flasher unit (due to normally open turn signal switch).
I think because its already dropped voltage due to the internal resistor on running light side (to attain dual intensity) that is just feeding back to signal circuit and through your dash signal indicator and the load resistor. Is the turn indicator dimly light on that side?
The reason the brake/tail lights work fine with the same LED bulbs is tail light backfeed into brake circuit has nowhere to go except the other LED bulb. Just a hunch that if you were to run one LED and one incandescent in the brake/tail light sockets you would find the LED tail light not working and the incandescent tail light working, and the incandescent brake light dimly lit.
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this previous thread has Jeff's amp draw tests...
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Okay...theres a little chain of events.
The pickup coils report crank position and therefore movement to TCI....the TCI shuts down coil firing if engine is not rotating.
You have a fuel pump control unit that has a timer and also #2 coil ground wired in....if #2 coil is not firing the timer times down for a few seconds and then causes the fuel pump relay to open, shutting power off to pump points.
The timer allows for brief fuel pump operation to top off the carbs with fuel before cranking.
The strategy is to prevent fuel pumping for very long when there should be zero demand (engine not running) so a fuel leak or bad float valve will not be supplied with pump pressure.
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The first 2 marks as you rotate CCW are the firing range for #1, the 3rd mark (last to rotate under) is the TDC mark.
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The tensioner is not pressing on chain at this point?
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Heres a VMax block on ebay with head gasket on one bank...none on other
85 Yamaha VMX 12 VMX1200 VMAX 1200 V Max Engine Crank Case Cases Block Cylinders | eBay
Other aftermarket gaskets on ebay show a similiar pattern to thew VMax pic. They want the coolant flow to follow a particuliar route...I wouldm't be doing any cutting....
Yamaha XVZ1200 Venture Royale 1984 1985 Athena Cylinder Head Gasket 8622698 | eBay
Maybe post an unaltered picture of the gaskets you have......
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The points sticking definitely would stop fuel pumping...but judging by the symptoms of low voltage there may be a second issue.
Normally on the Venture, power is shut off to fuel pump after 3 seconds or so with no crank rotation detected. If this does not happen and the points are sticking current will continue flowing through them and could burn them worse. You might want to test at the fuel pump connector to see that with key on, kill switch on, power stops after a few seconds with engine at rest.
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Just a suggestion.....take your multimeter and test voltage drop on fuse box from power supply wire to load wire on the fuses.
Notice I said wire and not clips....another member was having major grief and it was a bad crimp on ignition fuse wire.
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I question it getting back through signal switch to flasher but can see it backfeeding through other bulbs.
I would guess the dual intensity use resistance on the run side to dim the intensity....probably the better LED that use separate rows for turn vs running are a better design.
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I think the reason the LEDs act the way they do is both circuits share the LED (dual intensity) versus dual filament incandescent.
This youtube video explains the issue, where the running light side backfeeds supposedly to the signal flasher.
I don't see how the circuit can backfeed through the turn signal switch on a Venture and reach the flasher unit, but it illustrates the backfeed effect on the running light.
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Even though your charging voltage is on low side I doubt it would kill the ignition.....the battery voltage drops a lot lower cranking engine and the ignition operates sufficiently then.
You might want to test the running voltage at the TCI red/white versus the TCI black on the 8 wire harness since you mentioned
poor fuse spade. That may be running considerably lower than battery voltage yet still operate the starter solenoid coil.
If the damaged insulation was on the 6 wire pickup coil harness at TCI its possible a short occured and the TCI shut down sensing no crank rotation.
If the gray was shorting on the larger 8 wire TCI plug it might have stopped #2 coil firing and that shuts off the fuel pump, but you should see tach drop to zero beforehand.
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The air plenum on the RSV has 2 drain hoses one for left and one for right side. You might want to look at all the hoses hanging below engine to ensure the ends are clear
so excess oil can drain out.
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The pin inboard of the spark plug retains a sleeve with orings in water jacket of the cylinder head.
Is the tach sluggish revving up and down, or erratic....erratic or zero often is a ignition system control problem as the tach reads the firing cycles for the ignition coil for #2 cylinder (front left).
Carb differences
in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
Posted
The throttle plates would I think be slightly larger as the 1300 used 35 mm carbs vs 34 mm on the 1200's.