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Neil86

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Posts posted by Neil86

  1. The actual currency rate didn't change that much but credit card companies pad their rates switching either way so they never lose.

    Even if the gov't rates were the same on those 2 days you will be out roughly 4% switching in and out.

  2. The cruise light (blue if I remember, bike is in winter hibernation) will only be on if the switch is in the center position. and the cruise power relay is closed.

    When you move the switch to ON, it springs back to center....once the key has been shut off, you will have to rock the switch again to use the cruise...in other words it defaults to cruise power off on every startup.

     

    There is a green SET light that be on if the bike is set at a speed.

  3. Well I'm talking OEM staters here. The aftermarket starters could be different. The reason the RSV starters have been recommended for a few years is they are 4 brush, and seem to hold up very well. They were available for a reasonable $ used too.

     

    The diagrams in the parts books are not definitive, you have to look at the part listings. (Brushes vs Brush Set).

  4. You might want to inspect the cylindrical brass bushing in the lever. The pushrod can wear into bushing and cause loss of travel of the piston in the master. Originally the hole is bored to 1/2 the depth of the bushing but I have seen one that the pushrod wore through

    to other side.

    The bushing normally wears from rotating in the lever on every clutch pull, grease the bushing periodically.

  5. The Reserve Lighting Unit is designed to monitor headlight circuit and should one beam be burnt out, switch power to the other beam to maintain some headlight illumination.

     

    Normally when this occurs you would have an alarm on the CMS showing a bad headlight filament and when you were trying to use the

    failed filament the white HEADLAMP indicator on the dash would be illuminated to show the Reserve Lighting Unit was powering the other filament of the bulb.

     

    A more likely culprit are weak fuse clips for the headlight fuse....they oxidize, run hot and can lose tension, ..etc Look at the clips for oxidation and melting on the plastic dovetail groove the clip sits in on the fusebox.

  6. A couple suggestions....

    The 83-85 have a YICS system, meaning hoses running from intake ports on head to a plastic reservoir. The reservoir (YICS chamber)

    is prone to leaks as the plastic ages and can result in vacuum leaks which might explain the poor cold starting you are encountering.

    Many YICS systems have been abandoned and the ports capped off.

     

    As mentioned earlier the 1983 used a vacuum signal from the #2 (Left front carb) and a unique TCI. If they replaced the TCI with an 84-89

    model the vacuum signal has to come from a synch port NOT the carb, or else your timing advance will be way off and performance will suffer. If the TCI has a 41R- xx number on the foil sticker its a 84-89 model...if its a 26H-xx is the 83 model TCI.

  7. Not sure if this will help but a few things that I might have missed reading through here...

     

    The CLASS fuse will only see power when the key is in the ACC position, it is fed from a single Red/Blue wire from Ignition switch.

     

    The ACC fuse and the AUDIO fuse are fed by a separate Red/Black wire from switch and have power in either the ACC or ON positions.

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