garyS-NJ
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Posts posted by garyS-NJ
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Pvc pipe inside the podsI don't think air boxes are designed to create a restriction so much as to create dead air (a constant pressure) around a velocity stack which gets the proper air velocity past the jets. I put pic tubes inside my local pods on an old suzi with vm26 carbs and it helped immensely. I also partially shielded each pod with foil tape.Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk
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I don't think air boxes are designed to create a restriction so much as to create dead air (a constant pressure) around a velocity stack which gets the proper air velocity past the jets. I put pic tubes inside my local pods on an old suzi with vm26 carbs and it helped immensely. I also partially shielded each pod with foil tape.Are c.v. carbs more sensitive then old slide carbs like a mikuni vm26Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk
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Are c.v. carbs more sensitive then old slide carbs like a mikuni vm26Stacks and open pods in lieu of the factory air box can work just fine but you must compensate for the lack of intake restriction. The easiest way to achieve that is to get a set of restrictors from Morley's Muscle. Cheap and fast. It's what I had to do when I installed a free flowing custom air box on my Vmax (same-ish engine/carbs). One way to illustrate the importance of the air box is to try and run without it and see how bad it is. CV carbs are sensitive to flow/restriction changes. Good luck on the project! I love to see unique and custom things unfold!Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk
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If he's buying the ignitec, he could leave the to in there if the mounting screws present a problem.One does not have to remove the main fairings to remove the TCI from the stock location.Remove the air box and the lower fairing on the left side. Remove the black plastic "heat shield" over the front valve cover.
Use a number 3 Phillips, one inch long insert bit, taped into a ¼" socket mounted on a short handled ratchet to get the two screws that hold the TCI to the coil rack.
http://www.venturerider.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=113780
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Video was boring af. Suggest get the go running and the stop and rude it without a seat to see if it could be comfortable with a custom seat. After that if you want to get crazy, take off the tail section. (& fuel tank?)and it will look like a drag bike. Idk how it would be riding lime that but you could fab a seat and rear fender on that. Then maybe stacks on the carbs (yes everyone will say it won't run but I bet it could with jetting and change the muffs. Yep, then the handlebars and that mess up front with the fairing goes.Hey Everybody! I know I may get eaten alive for this, But I picked up a Venture here recently, and am working it as a restoration/bobber build to make it fit me a little better (I'm 5'5" on a good day, and about 190 lbs). The '83 XVZ1200 sat around for about ten years, and needs some love to get running. Luckily, the PO is here on the site, and did a wonderful job of maintaining her for her long stint in a covered Workshop, So the mechanicals should mostly be in order. If you are interested in giving me pointers, or just wanna watch me bumble through this thing, enjoy! This is first of a series, and I have a specific plan to keep the luggage and tour capability for when I want itSent from my VS987 using Tapatalk
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Nope. And others will chime in. On my '84, I took out my tci to troubleshoot and definitely didn't remove main front fairings (although my front lowers and sides were already off). It was some work with a short Phillips head I think or maybe a right angle Phillips drive. I removed the airbox and got in from the carb side. But if you are just gonna install the ignitec ignition, you need only get the cabling off to connect to the to ignitec harness. The ignited mounts on too of your airbox and you will need to get a map sensor with it. Dingy was selling a kit with the ignited programmed with his map and included the harness and map sensor. All plug and play. I bought the connector so I could modify the ignition curve but never felt I needed to do it (the only thing I should do at minimum is make the rev limit higher, I think its at 7400 from dingy and I would go 8100, I think 8500 is safe but pushing it. Buy I,g direct from ignitec i don't know what curve you getHi guys, sorry the manual I have is hard to read, what do I all have to do to get the stock ignition box out ? As in where is it located and what has to come out to get to it ?Thanks
Ken
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Now I know if my 4 brush starter wears out, I can upgrade my cables and put the 2 brush back in!!!I bought a set back when Dingy was making them, I also bought a 4 brush starter...never got around to installing the starter because the upgraded cables cured all of my starting needs.Highly recommend that you change out cables.
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I bought heavy cable and lugs along with a 4 brush starter and after testing the starter alone found I didn't need to upgrade my cables. Bike starts hot or cold easily every time but this isn't to say that it wouldn't crank faster with heavier cables. That said, a 2 brush starter has no business in any of these bikes and its a wonder to me that Yamaha wasn't forced to do a recall (or is that only safety issues). I saved my 2 brush starter because people sell them on eBay but why would anyone buy one?If you upgrade the starter to a 4 brush, do you still need the larger cables?Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk
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And solder and crimp lugs. Never seen a cable corrode to a battery terminal.With larger wire! Upgrade both the minus and plus wires and be surprised at how much better it starts when hot! Someone was using welding cable at one time. Several members in the past made up kits for sale. I don't think anybody has made them since Heather (Yamagrl) did a year or two ago...Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk
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That last Vegas trip didn't look fun. You made a tough decision sound logical. I wonder the same sometimes but more if ill be hanging up my helmet because I'm dead or I can no longer ride. I had another accident last year and my neck is bothersome and it makes my throttle hand go numb while riding. Now even short rides its going numb and its stiff and I'm getting a little nervous riding within 30 miles of my home because its so traffic dense (& I hate to say it but seems the drivers are worse now then ever). good that you are staying connected to the group tho because its a good group and people need people.I've decided to hang up my helmet. I've not ridden my 89 VR this year and only once last year but did more in 2015(first riding year after my accident). I had that terrible accident in 2012 with my 91 VR, but because I had the 89 VR, I moved the carbs from my wrecked 91 VR to the 89 VR and the 89 sprang back into life in 2015. Surgeries and Phy Therapy took 3 years and today, one could not tell that I was ever in a bad M/C accident.I was in Disneyland this past Christmas with my daughter and husband (with 1 granddaughter and 1 grandson). My daughter handed my wife and I each a Disneyland button to wear, to begin our Disney Adventure http://www.venturerider.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=113630. My daughter always had a creative streak in her. I was walking with my grandchildren one in each hand. My granddaughter who was 5 during my accident. help nurse me back to health in her sweet way. My grandson was not born yet. Today my granddaughter is 10 and can barely remember the accident and my grandson would have never known me had the accident took my life. Now with number 3 due in November, I Assessed my life and the M/C riding was the one hobby that had the most risk in my life, and my desire to be part of their lives, see them graduate, college and possible be a great grandfather inspired me to hang up my helmet. There is a time for everything and this is my time.
I've had a 2 wheel motorized bike since about 1965 (Tote Gote)https://s.yimg.com/fz/api/res/1.2/qZLchKo3bJv1hsF78u2OQA--~C/YXBwaWQ9c3JjaGRkO2ZpPWZpdDtoPTE4MDtxPTgwO3c9MjMw/https://s.yimg.com/zb/imgv1/635a8bbd-abb2-3bc6-a7c6-af9a120e1e48/t_500x300. Anyone remember it. Then in 1969 I bought a Kawasaki TR90 http://www.venturerider.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=113631&d=1531888334&thumb=1&stc=1 and I still have it. Then after college I bought a 74 Yamaha TX500 twinhttp://www.venturerider.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=113632&d=1531888550&thumb=1&stc=1. Bought a 74 Yamaha YZ125http://www.venturerider.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=113639&d=1531891660&thumb=1&stc=1. Sold the Yamaha TX500 then in 1980 bought a new Goldwinghttp://www.venturerider.org/forum/asset.php?fid=110357&uid=10098&d=1531888833 . I sold the wing in 1983 when my daughter was born. Then I got back into riding in 2010 and bought the 89 VRhttp://www.venturerider.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=113634&d=1531889551&thumb=1&stc=1, just 4 months after open heart sugery. Rode it from Vacaville Ca to Buckley Wa. Then while looking for a parts VR bike I came across a beautiful 91 VR with about 6000 mileshttp://www.venturerider.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=113635&d=1531889732&thumb=1&stc=1http://www.venturerider.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=113636&d=1531889912&thumb=1&stc=1http://www.venturerider.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=113637&d=1531890180&thumb=1&stc=1. I was going to sunset with the 91 VR but the accident took the life of the 91 VRhttp://www.venturerider.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=113638&d=1531890802&thumb=1&stc=1. So this is what my 89VR looks like now with a golf bag carrier.https://scontent-sea1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-1/p160x160/15873566_1250684658342964_7258170338963794516_n.jpg?_nc_cat=0&oh=e10a4d7e75d7526ea3594cc3e47c0e50&oe=5BD9949B. I plan on having fun accessorizing the 89VR then putting the 30 year Collectable plates next year. Then the 89VR will go into storage for my grandkids to one day restore it say in 20 years. THen it will be about 50 years old. Mean while I will be having more fun restoring my 69 Kawasaki. 74 Yamaha YZ125. My mothers 1976 AMC Pacer, my 76 Chev Luv, my 92 Dodge Diesel, and my 88 Bayliner. I'm not leaving this group for I really like being connected with you all.
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Does the bracket not have the pin in the same place?&The second gen has the exact same rear caliper as the 1st ben MK2 has!!! I think the OP has an MK1 which has very anemic brakes, to begin with! You can convert to an MK2 caliper but you need the MK2 mounting bracket, and you have to MacGyver a way to adapt it to the MK1 swingarm...Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk
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I could have sworn that after delinking, my rear brake was touchy and would skid with moderate pedal force.I have delinked my 88 and went with all SS lines from Skydoc_17.The stock linked brakes were really bad for where I drive. I have to drive on pavement with a LOT of loose gravel on it. With the linked brakes there was no way to stop without locking the front tire and risk going down.
I completely removed the proportioning valve and plugged the Master where the line goes to the front. I put on HH pads all around. The rear is capable of locking the rear tire if you really stand on it. You can not get more braking power in the rear than that. You do have to make both front brakes work with the front master or the total braking power will be really bad.
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I didn't think I made that up about our ventures. If its raining good and hard tomorrow, ill try to isolate caliper or line for the hard braking and overkill or return or caliper or line for the dragging.I would like to point out that if the rear MC is overfilled just normal braking can warm up the fluid enough to cause the pads to drag which will make the fluid heat up faster leading to a seizure of the rear brake. I had that situation happen to me once although it was not from overfilling the fluid but improperly adjusting the pedal clearance.Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk
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Fluid expands when hot and I thought we had a venture rider solved his dragging brakes with a spurt out the bleeder. And I can't see the sightglass in reservoir. And certainly the return hole will keep them dragging. But neither will make it harder to stop. I'll work on a caliper.I can't be excess fluid, it can't be the return hole, it can't be air. It's the caliper. The caliper needs servicing. Service the caliper. It's The Caliper.Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk
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Took her for a test ride and same scrappy rear brake AND it was dragging pretty bad. I kicked the caliper and the dragging got much better but still there a little. I know that could be excess brake fluid in the reservoir or that return hole partially plugged. I'm gonna clean that return hole and try it again but I think the caliper needs service... Wondering if the r1/r6 calipers are more reliable.. Another though just came to mind tho if the brake line is collapsing, or clogged, that would produce both symptoms..Try bleeding one more time.....if your test ride isn't to your satisfaction. She should stop pretty quickly without lock up using pedal only.Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk
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The r1 r6 calipers don't fit my '84 brake mount. I have an '86 mount somewhere here but ill do that next time I find the mount. For now I just popped off the caliper to verify both pucs were actuating. They were but took mega force to squeeze them back. I cleaned with energy cloth, rinsed, wire wheeled, buffed, and associated the pins and a smear of hi temp grease. New ebc hh pads and she's not dragging. Test ride tonight but I think maybe my master isn't putting full pressure somehow but to my recollection, that should make for a fading squishy pedal...Bolted right in. BTW, as long as the distance from the center of the mounting holes is 100mm, that type of caliper will work on both the 1st gens Mk2, and 2nd gens. I'm not sure about the 1st gen mnk 1's....83 and 84's. Yamaha uses a lot of parts that interchange between models. Brake calipers is one of them.Yes...it works very well. Only problems are - the original brake line has a slight twist in it. And it needs to be bled BEFORE you mount it as the bleeder isn't in the up position for bleeding. It was easy doing it that way. Takes only a few minutes to bolt her back on to test the brakes. I used a block of wood between the pads to test my pedal before mounting. There are numerous sources that will make custom stainless brake lines...I'll go that route for the rear at some point.
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So that's a blue for rear caliper with your stock mk2 caliper mount? Does it make more stopping power than stock caliper?I too have my 89 stock and will keep it that way. I love the linked brakes and can easily use only the rear brake for slow speed control by simply gently using the rear brake. As was said, doing that, activates only the rear brake.... or more rear than front. Whichever!I ended up putting a blue dot on my rear only because my caliper was not functioning anymore properly. So rather than rebuild, I bought a used newer caliper and installed it. Excellent!
http://www.venturerider.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=113274
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Well with the replacement caliper seemingly in working order (it was sitting so I didn't want to bench check action on both pucs for fear of the grunge making it hard to retract them for a say onto the disc.. (Yes, lazy, in a rush)), I slapped it on, bled, and test rode and it wasn't much better! Brake was initially dragging but after a test ride down hills and stamping on the brakes to get short skids, that loosened up but it still requires a lot of pressure to get a skid. I've only seen master cylinders fail by leaking or getting squishy so I'm incli ed to think one or both pics aren't actuating well but how could that be without them dragging. Oh and the pads looked ok. I checked my spare r6 front calipers and the look a litesmaller and bolt pattern wider. A,home know if the mk2 rear brake mount will hold an r6 caliper and is that an upgrade for more stopping power? I think brakes should lock when asked.I'm delinked so with stock rear master, the line that was going to the front is now plugged and I ditched the proportioning valve. After that the rear was very touchy or with a "wooden" feel. Just took off the rear caliper and looks like one of the pucks is frozen in so I swapped with a spare and going for brake fluid.. (Haha, mystery solved when you actually look at something).Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk
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I'm delinked so with stock rear master, the line that was going to the front is now plugged and I ditched the proportioning valve. After that the rear was very touchy or with a "wooden" feel. Just took off the rear caliper and looks like one of the pucks is frozen in so I swapped with a spare and going for brake fluid.. (Haha, mystery solved when you actually look at something).The diameter of the master cylinder bore needs to increase proportionately to the caliper bore in order to maintain the same hydraulic advantage, in other words if the caliper bore is increased by 20% the master bore size needs to be increased by 20% or you lose braking power. As far as the best master for your calipers I'll defer you to those here that have made the swap, I have the stock calipers on mine and plan to leave them.I'm curious about why you have to stand on your rear brake, what is your rear setup now, is there just one caliper on the rear master? Stock caliper? Did you remove the proportioning valve? What kind of hose to the rear? How old are the pads and how long since the internals were serviced?
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Tim got it right on here. I delinked my 84 because was such a pain to bleed, and the brakes sucked, and I want more control on grass, dirt, gravel... And my blue dots work well with an '86 master.Welcome. [emoji481]The proportioning valve is calibrated and balanced for the stock piston sizes, if you change the piston size equally front and rear the proportioning valve will still function correctly, if you change them unequally it won't. The master cylinder bores are also sized for the caliper pistons, so larger pistons reduce the mechanical advantage of the masters. Small increases may not be that noticeable but larger ones will require more effort at the lever and negatively impact modulation and feel.
The proportioning valve and the caliper piston size aren't intended to prevent the front wheel from locking so much as they are to apply the correct proportion of front /rear braking without the skill level required to correctly modulate independent front and rear brakes, especially in a panic stop where over-braking the front and losing control or locking the rear and sliding out are pretty easy to do for most riders. Its the same system cars have used forever. Yamaha stated in the manual that the "exclusive benefit" (their words) to this system is that it requires "no skill" to operate, just like stepping on the brake pedal in a car. Personally I think the linked system has gotten a bad rap because of A) the amount of rubber hose in the stock system, B) the hydraulic anti-dives, C) slightly undersized calipers and D) hardly anyone maintains their hydraulics. I actually like the linked brakes but think that the combination of the above meant that the stock bike was under-braked for a two-up loaded touring bike. I think most folks here prefer to un-link the brakes.
Tim
Is there a consensus on best front master to run with blue dots? And will one of them pinch my rear? I have an extra set and my rear brakes are sucking. It felt like wood after delinking but now I have to stand on them to skid and its not spongy.. Like theres oil on the pads.
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You might get another 30k or 130k. How much? Valve lash check maybe 30-40k but if it runs good, its good for now.Found a 1991 Venture Royale sitting on the side of the road for sale. Has 71,000 miles on it Sign says everything works properly, Updates done,(???what would they update) fresh oil change.A few questions I have.. What should I look for as thing that I might see and want to avoid the bike. How often should carbs have been cleaned/synched etc.? How often should the valves be set etc.? What is usually the life span of that particular engine? What would be a fair price? Paint Chrome and plastic all seem in nice shape for a 27 year old scoot.
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Are you suggesting that the graphite wires have a higher inductance than copper wires? And I still don't think the 5k drops significantly less voltage than the 10k (maybe 1/2 but..) as its thousands of volts across the plug to jump the gap. And then why wouldn't oem use the 5k ohm? But like I said, I'm out of my,knowledge base here so,I shouldn't be commenting on,the engineering, but for sure I remember the 5k vs 10k affects the secondary voltage wave shape (noise).It's basic electrical circuits that there is a voltage drop over a resistor. The voltage to the spark plug will increase using a 5k ohm cap versus a 10k ohm cap. And since the Gen I's use copper spark plug wire, the inductive effect of that wire is miniscule. The coil works by building up a field in the primary side which induces a field in the secondary side and when that voltage is shut off, the voltage collapses causing the field to change in the secondary side and providing a voltage/spark to the spark plug. This inductive action will ring back and forth decreasing each time. I'm not an elec eng. Maybe flying fool whill chime in and tell us more about this event.Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk
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There must be some basic research cited and actual test results for using 5K vs wok ohm plug caps. I was looking close at this when I first got my venture and found some bad caps. I remember there was a guy on a forum who could talk about 5k vs 10k ohm caps and since some of our venturerider heavy hitters already weighed in here I'm gonna say it was Hondaman on a cb750 forum..I think the manual states that the caps are 10k ohms. My OEs checked 9k ohms. The 5k ohms caps should give a fatter spark and cowpuc says he never had any issues running the 5k ohm caps. The NGK catalog states that they don't have any for our bikes but had some that would probably work. I didn't try to find those.The resistor forms an LR circuit with the coil and will do something like earlier longer or later shorter. I don't think it has anything to do with the. "Voltage" or "heat" of the spark because the spark jumps when the spike reaches the voltage required to jump the gap. The coil secondary is a pulse or approximate square wave and im pretty sure the inductor starts as an open (resists current change) and ends as an almost short and is charged at a rate proportional to the resistor (wire and cap). And of course proportional to the input (coil primary) pulse. So I think bigger plug cap resister gets later discharge (and idk if its longer)... But I might be wrong here and plug wire might be the inductive element of concern. There's some research on this I remember looking at but I can't now because my head hurts from thinking (& I need to work).
And someone mentioned copper core wires..the graphite wires are there for radio noise suppression, the spark has more rounded edges and less high frequency which sums to the sharp edges.. I doubt this change would affect our stock tci, but it might make for noise in an old radio or cb if you run them. Not sure if it would affect an Ignetek ignition.. I have an Ignetek, stock wires (trimmed to get good contact to the boot), and 10k ohm plug caps which are readily available.
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I put plugs into an old GS last far and far it and this spring it wasn't lighting 3 cylinders bc spark was messed somehow by the anti seize which was just on the threads. With plugs out laying on the case the arc traveled from the plug body to the engine case but not from the center electrode to the plug body. Weirdest thing. I used to use a smear of oil on plug threads and thought the anti seize better but no. I cleaned plugs and she ran nice.I've used them and they worked fine. I really couldn't tell any difference. They will probably last longer but I'm reluctant to leave a plug in that long anyway because I'm afraid it won't come out. I guess with some anti-seize it would be fine.Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk
Expensive parts, or has this ever happened to you?
in Watering Hole
Posted
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