ABarnby

Yes, if I am going that far I only makes sense to just buy new parts, would need to get gaskets and seals anyway. I really don't need a complete parts bike. I also found out yesterday the guy wants $1000 for it.......I understand it is in good shape though, still a lot for a non running bike. thank you for the information....... I have learned a lot from this forum, there is a ton of knowledge here!

My main concern is the second gear problem. My 84 at 30,000 miles is not showing any signs yet. It seems like that will not happen till about 60,000 miles plus or minus...... Condition of my 84 is for a 32 year old bike is great. So if this 87 having 65,000 miles is not so good looking but is complete, does that give me a replacement transmission?

Do engine/ transmissions interchange with a 84 to an 87? How about body panels? I have an opportunity to pick up an 87 that is currently not running. Not sure yet of the actual condition yet. I think $500 to $700 may be a good price???? Thoughts??

When I got home I checked the slides. All good there......then sprayed gas into carb 2 and quickly the exhaust went up to 250 degrees. Stopped spraying gas and the temp slowly dropped. Clearly looks like #2 carb is a bit gunned up again

bongobob, I will say the spark felt real good when I was testing it. I somehow managed to press the start button myself while holding the plug as I was getting ready to check spark. I did not say in my original post the plugs are new. I do agree that somehow I got some gunk in the carbs. I planed on flushing out the lines before I connected to the carbs and did not.... i did hold the diaphrams up to a light to check for pinhole while I had them out. I will check to be sure the slides are moving nicely. If one is sticky what should I apply to free it up?

I agree, just getting frustrated as the weather is getting nice and I want to ride it. Also with the time I have spent on it, which I enjoy, but it is much more enjoyable sitting on the seat and going down the road. Maybe I will try the seafoam soak again before the weekend......and if so signs of improvement pull the carbs over the weekend.

So here are the details, 84 Venture with 31,000 miles. it was not running on all cylinders before i got started and here is what I did. I had spark on all 4 cylinders so I tryed the seafoam soak for 24 hours. That made a noticable improvement but still not perfect. I synced the carbs which were way off and really jut could not get that right. Not knowing what i had I decided to pull the carbs and go for a thorough cleaning and bench sync. I cleaned all four, had to order some gaskets and o rings, so cleaning was certainly no rush. carbs were cleaned 1 to a time and parts lined up for reassemblely. Also Pulled the valve covers and did a valve adjustment to put them all to spec. A Big Thanks to Skydoc for the shim kit, valve tool and new gaskets!! After the valve adjustment and before the Carb install i removed the CDI from under the battery so I could inspect and reistall on top of the air cleaner. (I opened it up and saw no sign of water being in there and the soldier joints all looked fine, no evidence of connections cracking or being repaired.) I gave the contacts and plug ends a cleaning to get ready for the relocation. Also drained the fuel tank, changed the fuel filter and installed new fuel line from the filter to the fuel pump and from the fuel pump to the carbs. Reinstalled the carbs, checked the fuel levels in the bowls, and assembled everything else and relocated the CDI. Started it up adjusted the idle and it ran great! I was a happy camper. Did a road test and it was great! Went home and pulled out the cleaning supplies and went to town. She looks great. Finished! Then Started her up to put away for the night and it was coughing and popping again........ took temp readings at the exhaust pipes at the head and #2 was 75 degrees. The other 3 were in the 270s . Tonight I checked for spark, and have a good spark at #2 , started it up and now #1 is cold also and also has a good spark. When i richen it up with the choke, those 2 cyclinders head up. with the choke off, they cool back down. I can't help but think Im in for another carb cleaning but thoughts of a bad CDI are also going through my head???? Should I clean the carbs again before I make another move, (I did not flush the fuel pump out and it is after the fuel filter. Fuel Tank, then filter, then fuel pump, then to carbs. (Just like it was originally.)

Yes there is an o ring. It was obvious to look but it was late last night when I was wrapping it up in the garage and should have just checked. Then I got to thinking about it and figured I would just ask

After draining the carbs one drain screw is leaking fuel from around the drain screw. Is there an o-ring behind the screw?

As it stands right now it looks like a 24 hour soak of sea foam in the carbs did the trick. I filled the carb bowls with sea foam, tried to start it a couple of times and let it sit. Tonight I drained the bowls, let them fill with fuel, then tried starting it a few times. When it did start it was pretty rough. After a few times of that it stared and ran. I let it run for a while and kept giving the throttle quick snaps. Then to my surprise the popping stopped, idle smoothed out. It it has smooth idle, a snappy response on throttle, and doesn't stall after throttle release. Will see what happens tomorrow. Going to sync the carbs again and change the plugs, or atleast give them a look. There is a great deal of information on this forum. It sure is beneficial to take the time to search and read some of the threads. Also thanks for the replies guys. It's always good to hear ideas on where to start.

Thank you for the replies. So to update: Today I messed around with the carb sync, it was way out. I do not have a sync tool so First I tried with a single gauge and a clamp to dampen the needle bounce. As expected it turned out to be frustrating. So of to the auto parts store I went and picked up some clear tubing and tranny fluid and made my own. Started with carb 1 and 2, using a clamp to prevent the tranny fluid from getting sucked right in. Got those set and then did 3 and 4 and then 2and 4. She now runs pretty good. Checked the air/ fuel screws and all 4 where about 2 1/2 turns out. So now the idle is about 1000 rpm and searches about 100 to 200 rpm. I took the temp of the exhaust right at the head, cylinder 1 was about 420 and cylinder 2,3,4 where all about the 300 range, not sure what to make of that?? 1 lean and or the others rich? planning on pulling the plugs and changing them tomorrow or at least take a look at them and see what they look like Any suggestions for that temp range?

My bike is a 1984 venture. I purchased it last year and rode it through the summer months. It has 31,000 miles and is in very good condition. With choke it started and ran pretty good, and after it warmed up ran good. It actually seamed as the more I rode it the better it ran. I went to take it out last fall and started hard an would not idle. I sea foamed it and let it sit for a few days and the result was not any better. I left it for a winter project and now it is the middle of March, so it has turned into a spring project. I decided to start with a carb cleaning and as I was disassembling I found the 2 Left Carbuerators lifted out of the intake boots extremely easy. I found the problem. Pressed the carbs into the intake boots until they popped in and tightened the clamps. Gave each side a tug and the reassembled the air box. Then started and it ran much better but not as good as it had in the past. Pulled the plugs and founded them to be black, cleaned them up with some fine sand paper and a fine wire brush, hit them with carb cleaner and compressed air. Somhere is where I am at, it starts and runs on choke. Am able to increase the rpm by giving it quick short bursts of throttle. After it warms up it will idle off choke, the throttle is responsive, however the idle fluctuates. Give the throttle a quick snap up to increase the rpm and release the idle will drop down to 400 or 500, stumble and stall. I can keep it running if I give it some throttle though. Also when idling at 900 or 1000 rpm and warmed up the idle will creap up to 2000 RPM. If I rev it up the idle will drop back down to the 400-500 range, stumble and stall if I don't give it any throttle. The throttle response is good when it is warmed up though......... i don't think the carbs need a cleaning but just adjustment. Thoughts..........