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azxvz1284

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Posts posted by azxvz1284

  1. I had the same problem on a dirt road in Pine this summer, Richard. Walked her backwards to turn around and backed into a driveway...there was a dip...and when I put my feet down to stabilize the bike...nothing but air. Down she went on left side...all the way on the side. Took two of us...pushing with everything we had to get her back up.

    Granted that was a downhill fall...but still. I might have been able to get her up if she was 6 more inches up. Wider engine guards would have done that. My VStar 950T has wide bars and they don't get in the way of turns, but you can lay the bike over and she sits nice and pretty on the guard. Easy to pick up and she weighs over 650 pounds!

     

    Besides that, I wasn't pleased with the way the upper fairing was "sanded" down to the joint by the incident.

     

    I think I would willingly save my pennies for wider guards and a lifting system like is made here for V2's...

    david

     

    "V2's..." You talking about the Victory Vision?

     

    Richard in AZ

  2. I don't know about wider bars but taller maybe? or maybe taller and they get wider as they go up ( see some of the new victry and other bikes). First it helps protect bike and rider in event of unnatural contact with pavement. Second if the bike can't or doesn't fall as far (wider at top) you have less distance to pick up. I've been thinking of the same thing myself. I have a friend who bends smaller stainless up to 2" tubing in his shop. Added advantage of taller wider bars, more place to mount lights and cup holder (see harley)

     

    If I can see a sketch and the mount plates have the corresponding attachment holes, I could be in on a buy.

     

    Thanks,

     

    Richard in AZ

  3. Any experience to share on this?

     

    I have a 1997 Ford Ranger, short bed (6') truck. I want to move my big VR frompoitnts A to B. Riding it is oot an option. SO, which is better; loading the bike into the bed or towing it with a trailer. Either way, its a 1-man operation. I have a trailer hitch installed, but

    UHaul could do that. I don't have ramps, either, and sure don't want an 800lb bike falling or tipping over while getting it into the truck-bed.

     

    Comments are invited, everyone!

     

    Thanks,

     

    Richard in AZ.

  4. No overheating observed, just thinking ahead to the 110 summer temps and remembering my vr12 experiences. Thanks, guys.

     

    Richard, I agree with Jeff. I've had no problems with my 89 1st gen in heat. Fan kicks in near top of green on temp gauge and keeps the engine at that temp. Even idling in heat.

     

    If you are having overheating issues...suggest you completely go over the cooling system...from radiator flow to thermostadt. make sure the system is flowing properly would be my first guess....Also make sure the coolant temp sensor and the fan sensor (both on lower right side) are clean.

     

    david

  5. Well, machisas mas gracias to Videoarizona, as the 20w-50 was an near-instant resolution. But, there is a little clutch-lever fluid (Dot 3) coming out of the shifter shaft hole in the stator cover. Also, there is some 'slop' in the shaft, where it comes out of the stator hole; not laterally, but in-and-out of the stator's shaft hole, with about 3/4 of an inch of play. Any thoughts on these two points?

     

    Thanks again,

     

    RIchard in Prescott Valley, AZ

     

    Richard in

  6. Yikes! Now I remember, I had this same prob with my XVZ12; solved with the change in oil grade. Never mind mj; just aging will make you lose your memory. Now, if I can just remember where I put it......

     

    Thanks,

     

    Richard in Prescott Valley, AZ

     

    :322:

     

     

     

     

    Richard,

     

    Two things....

     

    First, I would look over the pictures on this site and search the archives. You may be on to something regarding a missing bushing. I would go take pics for you but my 89 is stock...no heel/toe.

     

    Second. I run 20-50wt Yamalube year around here in southern AZ on both bikes. Our temps are cooler than PHX. Much better shifting and quieter. I spent 40 years in PHX and always ran heavier oil year around. I let both bikes warm up for a few minutes...being water cooled, I treat the 89 VR just like my car. 5w-30 is too lightweight I would think.

     

    Third (oops). Did you bleed down at the slave cylinder? I assume so. When I bled my clutch a few weeks ago...I went through almost a half pint of fluid getting the old stuff out and the line to run clear. Took a while, but the effort on the clutch is now so much better. Just an additional thought...since I was concerned how long and how much fluid it took for me to change out old for new....

  7. Okay Guys, time again for your help;

     

    I replaced the stator cover with another from Ebay; but FIRST welded the sides of the single support on the backside for the shaft's tunnel through the stator.

     

    Changed the oil using 5W-30; as it's already in the 30-40 degree temperatures with Winter almost here. Flush, filled and bled the clutch with Valvoline Synthetic DOT 3 fluid.

     

    The motor is running great. but, here's the prob;

     

    No matter how much I tweak the shift linkage, moving through the gears is tricky. One moment getting into first is really easy, the next moment it's not. Same with the other gears. The toe of the shift goes down to change a gear, and it bangs against the rider's left floorboard. Same with the heel. I could try cutting 1/2 inch off of the 'inside' floorboard along its length so the heel-toe piece won't 'bottom out', but I must be missing something. I wondered if it is a bushing missing from where the shaft goes through the Stator's tunnel, but the shaft was already a tight fit through it. About a 1/2 to 1" of the smooth part of the shaft is visible before the knurled portion the shifter linkage is attached.

     

    What could I have missed? Any suggestions?

     

    Again, thanks in advance.

     

    Richard in Arizona

  8. ss. The mess looks worse than it is, but I have one I can take off a 1984 VR.

     

    Thanks for replying!

     

    Richard in AZ

     

     

    iCarl;871172]Wow! Some stuff going on there I don't understand. Someone sure made a mess of it.

     

    The cover on your 84 is the same.

     

    I broke one in the same place putting my foot through it as I hit the car that pulled out on me. I grabbed one off the parts bike I bought, but I think the original would have been weld-able. Not sure if you've got anything to work with under that gob of stuff or not....

  9. Hello Gary,

     

    Can the stator cover/housing be swapped between the 1984 XVZ 1200aand the 1988 XVZ 1300?

     

    THANKS,

     

    RICHARD

     

     

     

    The 83-85 is about 1/2" narrower than the 86-93 version. The motor block has no change in this area over the years.

     

    Difference is due to changed stack-up height of the clutch pack when changed from 6 helical springs to the bevel spring.

     

    You can put a 86-93 clutch cover on the 83-85 motor/clutch combo. But not the other way. I discovered this when upgrading clutch about 4 years ago.

     

    Gary

  10. I recently bought an 1988 Venture Royale that has floorboard and a Heel-Toe Shifter. The shifter linkage attaches to a shaft that comes out of the lower left side casing. What I had missed on the inspection was that the metal around the hole where the shift linkage attaches to the shaft was cracked and had been repaired. Sure enough, an hour into riding it and the metal broke; one of the edge pieces of the hole. Steel Epoxy putty and JB Weld don't hold to spec for a repair solution. I can put a standard footpeg shifter on it, but the broken/cracked metal problem remains.

     

    Other possible repair strategies are:

    a. I also have an 1984 VR and wonder if I use that piece. Is it too small because the 1984 is a 1200cc and the receiving bike is a 1300cc?

    b. Can I take off the lower side cover and weld the broken piece to the cover, with more metal in the back to reinforce it?

     

    Anyone with any other ideas? Anyone have this problem resolved?

     

    Thanks,

     

    Richard in AZBIKE SHAFT PROB.jpg

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