srknova74

Got a hold of Woody. Thanks for the info!!

My turn signal switch did that on my 84. Dissembled and cleaned with lectramotive electronic parts cleaner. Works great now.

Anyone have a contact for seat reupholstering? Any pics of first gen ventures with custom seats? The only thing I found in the forums was a post by buddy in 2006. I saw a banner advertisement on our site. I'll check them out. Looking for a recommendation w/ pics on a first gen before I pull the trigger.

Jeff, what's the rating on yours? Doug, I'll look for urs when i get a sec.

Ha... Me trying to type on this stupid phone.

SLTook her out tonight.WOW. Nice. As it should be. Actually excited about her again. Cant thank u guys enough. Got to secure all the connections with solder style butt connecter, solder connectors, shrink wrap, and cover. PS, any ideas on what to replace the main positive fuse with? It's been bypassed since ive owned it and id feel much better if all this work didn't burn.

Noted. I always just checked for resistance. I guess this is why I'm not an electrician. Good wrench, bad electrician, lol. I'm getting better. Thanks for the pointers. You and Neil are pros! Thanks!!

When I get a moment it's gonna be solder unions and shrink wrap, ohm checking each connection as I go. What a PITA!

NEIL... For the win with "bad crimp" on the ignition wire going to the fuse block!!!! Huge, huge thanks to Jeff and Neil for responding logically to my post. Thank you guys tons!! Now on to the next issues. For any new bees reading this, this post alone is worth the yearly fee. Can't thank you guys enough!!! PS - already kicked my own @$$ for the bad crimp.

Man... I would be happy as all get out... And also kicking myself. I'll check as soon as possible. If that's not it, I'll move on to checking voltage at the solenoid and setting up a jumper as Jeff suggested.

I left it connected and got the reading at the connector.

Your positive these are all on the same circuit? Cuz ya, that would make A LOT of sense.

I will do that also. Thank you.

No start, just crank. Remember, no fuel pump kicking in. I will check the solenoid wires as soon as I'm able for voltage. I can't get to it until at least tomorrow night. Now we're getting somewhere. Thanks for your time.

No glass fuses. Replaces with the box style from Buckeye Performance, only mine came from local NAPA.

One solenoid post to the other solenoid post. Starter works with ground to frame and 12volts to starter post.

PS, won't bump start with no fuel supply.

Rebuilt probably 20-30. Starter is good. Again, works directly and when solenoid is jumped. 100% sure starter is functioning correctly.

One thing I haven't done is ohmout or test any of the original large guage wire. Like the main ground, battery to solenoid, and solenoid to starter. I was thinking of doing that just because the originals are 30 years old. Although,I think it's unlikely causing the current problem.

Jeff, thank you. All logical and all done. Battery load test fine at local shop, plus I have a carbon box and have done it myself. Have taken secondary battery out of the mix for diagnosis. Battery always fully charged for testing. Have not only cleaned the battery terminals and replaced screws, I have cleaned all grounds and every electrical pigtail behind the headlight, left hand cover, and near the battery. Battery volts at terminal no key - 12.5 (some surface charge). Key on drops to 11.97. Run switch off and on, I hear no fuel pump like I used too. No other noise at all. If I hit the starter button there is no noise, but the voltage drops to about 10.6 and the headlight cuts out. After repeated attempts, 15-20, voltage drops at terminals steadily. If no key on and the bike sits at full charge it will hold that charge. I don't know how else to explain. I can answer any question or perform any test.

Good thought on disconnecting fan. I will try that.

THIS THING IS DRIVING ME NUCKING FUTZ I don't want to just keep throwing money and time at it. It runs fantastic when it runs. I have every kind of bike known to man and this is in my top 3. I love this bike, but I can't figure this one out. Also... Oddly, the manual bypass switch for the cooling fan alsono longer works. Could be same issue... Could be coincidence. Ughh.. What a PITA!

Drops when starter button pushed, headlight cuts... There is a draw... And enough to significantly drain the batt w/o starter or fuel pump engagement.

Stays down. With or w/o second bat.

By that, I mean, the switch works eg. Open/close, but I don't know if the signal is going to where it needs to go.