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RSTDinPA

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Posts posted by RSTDinPA

  1. Before I purchased my RSTD I did a lot of reading here. I test rode my bike for 20 miles before I purchased it. No whine. I test rode an 07 that whined like crazy and I got a great deal on the leftover 06 I actually purchase. The bike was great. Right around 700 miles, the whine began. It was pretty bad, but, in all honesty, I got used to it. Today my dealer installed the I basket for me (just for the record, as soon as I mentioned the whine the service manager at my dealership said he would order the I basket...he knew about it). Well all I can say is that in my first 60 miles, it seems like a new bike.The whine is still there but so much lower in volume that I cannot believe it.at 45 mph in 4th gear it would make your ears ring. Now...it is barely noticable.

    I am cautiously optimistic that the I basket has made a big difference; however, since the whine did not start on the original basket for almost 700 miles, I will not say it is a done deal until I have racked up a few hundred more miles. In any event, I just thought I would share my I basket experience with you all.

    Rick

  2. Of course, you could just remove the tank next time you need a service that requires tank removal and just dump it over. I think that as log as you do not run the tank totally bone dry you will not have any problems.

     

    Another idea is to simply siphon all of the gas out of the tank and see if the plug moves under the filler neck so you can grab it with some long hemostats.

  3. pegscraper, the newer diesels do in fact have cats. That is the reason for the mandated change to ULSD because the sulphur would not meet the particle emissions. My VW diesel has a cat. I have to believe they would have to have some alternative. Zinc destroys catalytic converters. The world can be wierd. I hope one of the good members here helps sort out the myth and mysteries.For example...I always change my oil every three thousand miles. This is a legacy idea and in reality no longer needed wiht todays modern formulations. I cannot believe that the vehicle manufacturers would want to be replacing a bunch of cams and shims under warranty because oils could not protect them. Myself, being ignorant of the chemical processes, am going to have to rely on faith in the fact that modern oils have a much longer duty cycle than oils of 10-20 years ago, and that if I keep changin every 3K miles my oil will still be good. Really sucks to not know for certain though.

  4. They make a cleaner that I have had decent success with in the pas (about $9 from Roadhouse directly). If the discoloraton you are talking about is caused actually a stain cause by chemicals in the metal leaching out, this cleaner will make them look brand new. If however, it is being cause becuase your bike is running really lean, then the results will not be as good.I always found the best thing to do is to let the bike be totally cold..then applyt the cleaner ...get it nice and wet and let it sit for a while...then wipe it off. Reaply and repeat.

  5. Thanks for all of the great replies. I have done more research, and, apparently to meet stricter pollution specs, zinc is going to be phased out of all motor oils (many new bikes will have catalytic converters and zinc destroys them). In much the same way that sulphur is being removed from diesel fuel, replacement additives are being formulated. Not being a chemical engineer, I don't really understand the chemistry behind any of this, but, the zinc in motor oils is there as the "last resort " protection against metal to metal contact.when all else fails and the oil totally breaks down, it supposedly is there to give the oil one last chance to protect the motor. For someone like me, who changes the oil every three thousand miles or so, the chances of the oil breaking down like this are pretty remote. From what I think I understand from all this is this: modern engines are engineered to such fine tolerances and precision,the chances of "casual" metal to metal damaging contact occuring is slim (since the oil and other additives are there to prevent it). In any event, today, during a near 300 mile run, I got the best gas mileage I have ever gotten from my bike...49.6 mpg highway 65-70 mph. This has made me feel a lot better about using this new formulation. The best I have ever gotten before is around 45.xx. The clutch engages very smoothly (noticeably better than the Yamalube I have been using. Having said all that, I am going to leave it in for a bit more and probably try a synthetic next time just to see what all the "hype" is about. I will keep you all posted should any issues arise, but, I am not thinking any will.

  6. Rick,

    Thanks for the reply. I checked out your link and they recoment the Rotelly 15w40 dino oil. My concern is that they have changed it somehow (new packaging and formulation. My bike is running fine, shifting well, etc. Maybe I am just being paranoid. I don't want to just dump it and get some other oil. I always thought you should stay within the mfg recommended weights (on my 06 Yamaha syas 10w30 or 20w40) so I figured that 15w40 should be fine. Is it ok to use 5w40? would that cause problems being a bit light on the low end?

  7. Someone on another forum replied to me that Shell has reformulated the Rotella-T 15w40 and it might not have zzinc in it anymore. It is hard to believe this oil would damage my engine. I just want to hear form some others and maybe get some alternatives to use. I like dino oil.

  8. Is this oil ok to use in an '06 RSTD? I changed my oil using this oil and the bike seems to run just fine; however, a buddy of mine has got me paranoid telling me that diesel oils can cause damage becuase of the higher detergent components. Seems like a bunch of hooey to me but I thought I would ask.

  9. Hi, Today was bright and beautiful. My Roadhouse slipons were suppose t:cool10:o arrive Tuesday, but just as I finished washing the 06, UPS dropped them off right by my bike. One day early. Goody goody! They came in two inner boxes in an outer box; wrapped in paper; wrapped in bubble wrap; and tightly sealed. Fantastic chrome! Took me about a half hour to pull the bags, the pipes, and install the new ones. Turned the key, and Wowsy! Deep, throaty, and not a hint of a tinny sound. Just what I was hoping for. Great fit, and a lot lighter than stock. Rode about 125 miles today, and they sang so nice I did not hear the proverbial chirp. I think this pipe will be :clap2: popular among the owners on this good site. Jim

     

    Jim

    I had Roadhouse Classic 2-1 on my previous bike. lOved the sound. Not too loud and nice meaty rumble. How are they on the road? Can you hear them while you are at highway speed? Do they have that nice Roadhouse bark when you open the throttle? Deep rumble but not too much louder than stock at idle? I have been wanting to add these slipons to my bike but was waiting to hear from someone that has them.

     

    message me if you can.

    Rick

  10. Dan,

    Tell me what yo uthink of the roadhouse slipoins. I had the Roadhouse Classic 2-1 on my last bike and loved it....deep meaty rumble...not loud at idle.......nice bark when you open the throttle. I have been considering this exhaust for my 06 RSTD. Would love to get input from you since I think you are the only one on the planet with the Roadhouse slipons.

     

    Message me. Thanks in advance.

  11. I have an 06 RSV with 6 K miles, it has started making a taping sound like lifters tapping almost to the point of a light knocking sound when you first start it up. After a minute it goes away. Is this just normal for this engine? I like this bike but it has the noisest engine of any motorcycle I have owned. Between this tapping noise and the 70MPH wine. I am running 10W40 Synthitic oil, should I run 20W50 instead?

    Thanks for your help.

    Dandy1

     

    I have the same noises on my 06 RSTD. Doesn't seem to cause any problems at all and goes away once warmed up. I am using a 20W50 and if anything, when it is cool in the mornings, it actually taps more. Like you, I really like the bike, but it is the noisiest bike I have ever owned.

  12. What's the recommendation on how many miles to run between tire rotations front to back, you know, like we do on cars? Y'all do rotate your tires front to back periodically, don't you?

     

    My tires rotate constantly when I am riding...front and rear.

  13. Hello all. I hope I can make this question understandable. Here goes...

    The 2006 RSTD does not have a low fuel light. The final segment of the gase guage blinks and the Fuel trip meter comes on and begins to count up.. When I fill up it generally takes about 3.8-4 gallons when this led segment starts flashing, which would imply that I have 1.3-1.5 gallons of gas left in the tank (the RSTD is 5.3 gallon tank). All of the above is with the fuel petcock in the on position. Now here is the question... Could I keep riding until the engine ran out of gas and then turn the fuel petcock to Reserve and still have fuel left? Or is the Reserve setting just there and the guage is letting me know that I am pulling from the reserve?

     

    The manual is not very clear on this.I am going around 150-160 miles before the last segment begins to flash which would imply a cruising range of about 180-190 miles with about .5 gallons remaining if I can still switch to the Reserve setting on the tank.

    Sorry for the long post but not knowing is just nagging me.

  14. I've been tempted during the hot months of summer. I think I'll buy a set of brackets and a shorty windshield so I can slip a short one on for the summer.

     

    Wayne Farrington (Brewser23) sells the brackets for this. Check out his picture gallery for some pictures of his bike with the shorty shield.

     

    Where can you get a set of brackets? I am wanting to do that as well. Yamaha does not sell them only the hard parts and to buy all the parts is over $1K. Does someone make after market brackets for the Shield of the RSTD?

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