CAGE question.NBR

[hipshot]

not bike related.

on Friday, last, i went into town to run a errand.

i looked down at my "amp gauge", and it was pegged out(20 to 22 amps).

i stopped a "bato zone" and ordered a new alternator. it came in Sat. i installed it the same day. so far, it ain't charged a single amp.

question is, does anyone know if Ford, installed an inline fusible link, or circuit breaker, or something, that would not allow the system to charge?

it's in a 92 aerostar.

any input would be appreciated.

just jt

[GigaWhiskey]

I have heard of stories where AutoZone Alternators are not complete compared with what you already have. it is like they are missing something.

 

Is there not a voltage regulator on that?

[buddy]

JT,

Ford is the worlds worst for fusible links they have them everywhere even under the dash. Best thing to do (engine at idle)is test the voltage at the alternator post where the battery cable bolts on and see what it reads should be around

14.2-14.8 volts then go to your battery and do a read there and see what it shows should read pretty close to the alternator voltage . Alternator could be bad or bad connection at the battery or a break between the two, but I would do a voltage test first and go from there....or could be a loose wire...

 

Buddy

[V7Goose]

not bike related.

on Friday, last, i went into town to run a errand.

i looked down at my "amp gauge", and it was pegged out(20 to 22 amps).

i stopped a "bato zone" and ordered a new alternator. it came in Sat. i installed it the same day. so far, it ain't charged a single amp.

question is, does anyone know if Ford, installed an inline fusible link, or circuit breaker, or something, that would not allow the system to charge?

it's in a 92 aerostar.

any input would be appreciated.

just jt

Your post is not clear. I was not aware that any US auto maker was still using ammeters in the 90s - just about everyone converted to volt meters before then. But assuming you do have a real ammeter (either direct reading or shunt type), you need to specify if it is showing + amps or - amps. If it is pegged to the right (+), you do not have an alternator problem. The high charge rate is proof that the alternator is putting out. Possibly a bad regulator, but more likely a short or low resistance to ground. Bad battery is often the cause of that symptom. It is NOT going to be a blown fuse (or fusible link); that would stop the charging, not allow it to increase! The fact that the ammeter registers any current flow shows a complete circuit from voltage source to ground exists.

 

If the ammeter is pegged to the left (-), then you DO have a charging problem, as all of the current flow is out of the battery. It is possible that a fusible link at the alternator could cause this problem, as it would work just like unplugging the alternator.

Goose