Must Read- Swing-arm Bearings

[jasonm.]

I hear riders say on many of their rides. " the bike weaves, wallows in fast corners". Now, I am almost at 100k miles. Got new tire to be put on and I had decided to repack my swing arm bearings "again". Yes this is the 2nd time for me. 1st was @30k year 1992 and there was no serious wear and very little grease from the factory. Glad I repacked them then. Now the past 20k I have been having somewhat of a wallow that can last only 1/2 a second or so on back roads after hitting a bump mid corner...significantly leaned over. And when going straight on the interstate I needed to concentrate too much. Was not relaxing. Feeling like the "flex in the middle" at times. I have gone thru many tires, new or old same thing. So now, I took swing-arm out. Both sides were still loaded with grease. But cleaned them(solvent)as recommended and regreased anyway. Yes there were "dark spots" showing some minor wear. But I was not up for the Bearing races to be replaced just yet. ...they are a pain to replace unless you have a special tool or more patience than a nun. FYI- I replaced and set my steering head bearings 6 years ago, plus I have a grease fitting in the steering neck. Now after PROPERLY setting up the bearing/swing-arm bearing tension. It's on RAILS at all speeds thru the worst rough roads in corners, tight turns or sweepers. I have been aiming for cracks, road snakes, dips, rough pavement , etc. Nothing deflects my path on back roads all corners and bends no matter the road's condition . These speeds I am speaking of are ridiculous by sane standards. I have rode FJR1300s. And now my old VR feels stable as one of those . I'll just say my 87VR speedo now spends much of it's time pointing at "2 to 3 o'clock" position on the interstate. And the ride is relaxing at any speed vs. previously. Seriously consider this next time you are replacing your rear tire. FYI- the manual does give specs. and states tighten left 1st, then preload the Right bearing to 4.3 ft/lbs before the lock nut is done @72. What it does not say is that as you tighten the locket nut, that 4.3 is actually significantly decreased due to the tread design of the lock nut pulling the tensioner pin away. After a few tries for the proper "tension". I set mine to double this 4.3 aka 8 then torqued lock nut. I used an in/lb. torque wrench for the right side to be precise. ..then locked it down. I truly have an 800# sport handling bike.

Edited June 23, 2017 by jasonm.