GeorgiaYankee
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Posts posted by GeorgiaYankee
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Couple of questions as I am 5'11" with leveling links.
What helmet do you wear? Many full face will rattle you but because of wind coming UP your chest, not over the top of the shield. If you are using a full face STUFF the chin area with a scarf or two and try it that way. I stopped all buffeting with my Scorpion exo700 by using their "chin skirt".
Have you ever put your hand across your chest to feel and stop the wind from coming up?
If you slouch do you still get hammered?
Try this as a potential and cheap fix. Buy 1" or 3/4 clear plastic tubing for fish tanks and slice it and attach along the ridge of the shield. use tape to hold it down ( making sure it works before permanent install) that extra lip has worked for some to change the airflow and reduce the hammering.
Sorry you are having this problem. I love my baggershield which I use most of the time in the low position unless it is cold or rainy
VentureFar...
Thanks for the suggestions. I have a half shell, 3/4, and full face helmet and they all do the same thing at higher speeds. I can get some relief by ducking down lower but can't hold that position for long rides. If I hold my hand up between my helmet and the windshield I can feel the pulsing air before it reaches the top of my helmet. I need the pocket about 2 inches higher and I'd be golden. Will try the tubing. Weird how people have such different experiences. I want the baggershield to work out because it looks awesome, just don't want to get beaten on the highway.
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I have the taller baggershield, I'm 5'11 with leveling links installed and I look right at the top of the screen. I can sit up and look over or slouch and look through. I like it for most purposes, but not for highway travel. Anything above around 70 mph and it rattles my teeth with buffeting to the point that I'm cussing and fatigued from it. I'm going to have to try a vent install or maybe a wing to raise the pocket. It's a bummer. I asked baggershield (Spencer) if I could get a taller top piece and they can't make custom sizes unless they order like 30 of them from the manufacturer.
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I was wondering if it were possible to plug in a blue tooth transmitter to the bike. Anyone heard of such a thing.
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I guess if they're known to go bad, I'd be better off getting a Bluetooth set rather than spending $ on a new cable now, and another in the future.
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Its the coiled one that connects helmet to bike. I don't think that one on eBay will work. The one I gave that works has a light gray plastic ring with a D on it if it helps.
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Does anyone have an old j&m patch cord they're not using anymore? I have a 99 Venture and only one patch cord, the set is original to the bike. I have the second headset for my wife and the system works. The 1 cord that works has a light gray ring on it with the letter "D". I also understand a HC-E will work, but they're like $70 new. Thanks for any help.
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My float bowl o rings had the white powdery mineral looking stuff on them also, and it was on both sides indicating that was where I had fuel seeping through. Replaced all four. Also found my needle valves were shot, same residue and dryed out rubber causing cut off cylinders or fuel leaks. Replaced all four and bike runs like a top (after carb synch). Fun learning but long process taking the carbs out about 7 times trying to figure it all out.
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Put the tall Baggershield on my 99 Venture a few weeks ago and love it. Very high quality unit. I Recommend.
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I emailed DiamondR and Allen said they don't have the deflectors anymore, just the mounts. Will Yamaha is plastic deflectors bolt onto the DiamondR mounts does anyone know? Any other brands that work on them?
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Thanks Keith, I like the looks of those. I'm also considering an adjustable set that can be turned inboard in the summer to increase air flow. I'm searching for an affordable set of those before I make a decision. Any experience with them?
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Does anyone have a picture of what the lower wind deflectors are supposed to look like? I have the clear plastic attached to the bottom of the ferring that flows with the shape of it, but man, my knees get blasted with wind. It seems like there should be more there to protect your legs.
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I took around 8 hours the first time I adjusted mine just recently, including disassembly and reassembly. If a dealer says they can do it in a few hours, I wouldn't trust that it will be very thorough. To really do a good job at getting the valves within spec, not just sort of on the edge one way or the other, takes time. I'm glad I did it, otherwise it wouldn't have been done well guarunteed.
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Mine does the same thing. Either all the way out or in, doesn't like the middle area and turns itself off. I just replaced some stuff in my carbs and didn't see anything that would act as an adjuster. Wondering if I have a part missing...
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I got a Diamond R on flee bay for $15 ,luckiest guy on earth. It does fold down forward to let the passenger on or to swing your leg over which is very helpful. I had a cheaper$85 nonadjustable one on there and it was terrible. Very hard to bend to get it into the right spot in my lumbar, never succeeded indoing so.
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The saga...ends.. Woohoo! I can't thank y'all enough for your advice, and for all of the posts I've read trying to troubleshoot for the last few weeks. The latest is, 4 new needle valve assebly's installed in all four carbs, 2 were sticking really bad (closed causing 2 cold cylinders). Put it all back together, and she runs like a champ. Synched the carbs, and went for a quick run. Faster than ever. No leaky fuel using the choke, all is right in the world. I suspect the leaky fuel was the bad bowl o-rings and high float setting allowing fuel to weep out, or the needle valves not closing all the way, and overflowing out of the top of the carbs a little at a time. I hope that's it for a while.
Now to figure out what size front tire to get.
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Here's the latest in this maintenance project turned nightmare... new bowl o rings installed, put the bike back together, and fuel came gushing out of the left overflow once running. Sea foamed and tapped on it, no luck. Carbs back out again. Found cylinder 1 float stuck open. Freed it, carbs back on. Now cylinder 1 and 4 are cold. Poured seafoam/gas down the overflows (getting frustrated now) sat overnight. Ran it like I hate it, and still 1and 4 are cold. Surprised how well the bike runs on 2 cylinders. New spark plug in #1, no change, and I'm getting spark. No fuel getting on the plug. Now floats stuck closed perhaps? Wtf?
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I just installed two of the Tractor supply LED's mentioned above, and man they are bright. VERY visible from all angles, but not as blinding as high beam on my halogen in the middle. I don't think I'll have people flashing me, they're just bright enough, but not obnoxious. I also like that they won't put as much drain on my battery. Very white light, not my headlight looks yellow.
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I just replaced mine and only removed the middle gear cover. Replaced the gasket, probably agood idea.
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so, I've had a bike on the lift for the last week. I took it apart all the way down so I could do its first valve adjustment. 39,000 on it and 5 intake valves and one exhaust valve were VERY tight. Had to order one more shim to finish, no 265 in the kit I borrowed (Thank you Earl !). I took off the float bowls and reset 2 of the floats, were a little high. I may have found the culprit there though... all four O rings were totally dried out and fuel stains were passing over them in places. (Pink residue from the dirty fuel we get now). New o rings on the way. Will let you know if it works when she's all back together.
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I just got the yellow aluminum Sears jack and I'm happy with it. I used 4 hockey pucks and notched one out for the side stand switch to fit into. It takes a few minutes to get it all set up correctly, then a few pumps and she's up in the air. It has a very controllable lowing system as well. I've had my RSV on it in the air for a week now and trust it without straps. It WILL teeter front to rear though if which is A little sketchy.
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With these lower $ leds , have y'all noticed any noise issues on your radios? I recall reading that was the big reason to stick with the higher end stuff from custom dynamics etc.
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Thanks guys, I've not been turning the petcock on and off because of the drips. The bike only shows gas leaking when using the choke. The more choke, the more gas shows up running down onto the crank case between the heads. the rubber manifolds look wet too. I may need to clean everything off well and choke it, start it and watch again. Just can't tell. Are the rubber manifolds under pressure or a vacuum? How about with the choke on?
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I'm having a hard time finding where I have some fuel seeping from after using the choke to start on cold mornings. I do have significant cracks in the rubber intake manifolds that I suspect my be letting the fuel weep through, and the leak is up high. Any thoughts?
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Got the slave replace, and it's working great, no leaks, and the part numbers were correct. Had enough dot 4 left over to replace front brake fluid. What a huge difference, I had no idea. The old fluid was brown like a mild coffee, yikes.
Windshield ?
in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
Posted
That is a very good article, Thank you. I'm not certain that a taller top section would solve the problem without testing it. I told Spencer I'd be happy to R+D/test one if he ever has one built. If it works I'd be happy to query the forum for interest. I suspect a nice big vent to allow some air in and up the back side of the windshield would help calm down the Vortex that's causes the shaking. Will report back if I do it. I'll likely try a nice big vent like a Goldwing or similar.