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trouble

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Posts posted by trouble

  1. Sorry if this has already been discussed but I did a quick search and did not find an answer in the posts I read. I went to the Sirius website and discovered that they list two different diaphrams for my 1986 Venture Royale. One is a package of four SD1 diaphrams and the other is single SD10's. Anybody know which is the best one for my bike and what the difference would be. They look different from each other in the pictures. Price is similar. :confused24:

  2. WOW. I removed the guts of the proportional valve and in 10 minutes had the system bled and ready to go. The rest of the bike is apart right now but I will give an update on how it stops when I get it on the road. I spent most of today wrestling with the brakes and even eyeballed the sledge hammer in the corner of the shop a few times. I believe most of the brake issues I have read about will be related to that darned valve. If the bike stops well enough, its staying out.

    Thanks again

  3. The way the proportioning valve works with the linked system is as you apply pressure to the pedal the master starts to build pressure to the rear only first. As pressure increases THEN the proportioning valve begins to allow pressure to the front left caliper. This allows the rear brake to engage first so the front does not grab too much when the pedal is pressed.

     

    Once the pressure is applied the valve is metered for the 30% rear and 70% to the front for the proper ratio.

     

    So you should always feel the rear pulling down first. Not to a full lock but engaging at least.

     

    If all else fails you can remove the spool and guts from the proportioning valve and run it wide open. It works but it's a 50/50 pressure split at that point. But that will tell you for sure if the valve is working and rather or not it is put together correctly.

     

    I think I will try to remove the spool. I am sick of fighting it.

     

    Thanks for all your help.

  4. I noticed in the manual they want you to rotate the caliper up 1.2 in at the bolt. I have not been doing that. The brake pads would be mostly off the rotor. Any one actually do that. Why would they even want you do do this.

    My brake line is clear no obstructions. The master and the proportioning valve have been off and cleaned and a new kit installed in the master.

  5. I took the caliper apart and checked and cleaned everything. The pistons were not seized. I put the caliper back on and used compressed air to acuate it. The 4 pistons moved in and squeezed the rotor as they should. I hooked up the brake line and started to bleed again. First front left. Then rear. Then metering. I have the bike elevated and the front wheel stops on a dime. The pedal is firm and seems almost too firm. I dont have to move the pedal far before I lock up the front brake. but the rear can still spin. Not much oil moves when I bleed the rear and the pedal does not go down as I open the bleeder. It seems like not enough oil is making it to the rear caliper before the pedal gets hard.

  6. Good morning all. My first post. I have purchased a 1986 venture royale that was sitting for years. It came complete with mouse nest and chewed wires. It had so much dirt and grime on it that I decided to strip it to the bones. I have every piece of plastic, faring, luggage, crome and electronic off it now and it is all cleaned up quite nicely. I am about to take care of the known issues which are spongy front brakes, almost no clutch pressure and a rear brake rotor replacement. I think I should check the valve clearances and will replace all the oils, spark plugs coolant ect. Is there any other specific things I should do or check while it is stripped. Head bearings, swing arm bearings feel good. Front fork seals are not leaking. Thanks in advance T

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