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hubbsfd

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Posts posted by hubbsfd

  1. Well, I'm not being blocked :fingers-crossed-emo

     

    I agree this is a real problem and it really has nothing to do with having anything to hide. The problem is what can be done with the data collected. Things can be misconstrued and behavioral patterns created based upon the need to prove something that is untrue about you but with enough data just about anything can be misconstrued to prove any point needed. It is all fine if you trust the keeper.

  2. I really like the look of the stratoliner taillights. Does anyone know what I would have to change to get the strat lenses to fit on my 03 Venture?

     

    Brian

     

    My father-in-law has a 08 Stratoliner and I agree he has some really sharp lenses. I doubt you will find lenses to fit the RSV from a Stratoliner. If you do tell us as I'm sure others like the looks of them too.

  3. Broke my windshield yesterday and got one ordered but where can I get the plastic peace that is on the fairing. Broke a few tabs and need to replace it. ron:whistling:

     

    Sorry to hear about the break. I bought a new chrome trim piece for my 2008 RSV. My original got a few minor scratches and I'm totally anal so I paid $165 for a new one. Nothing wrong with my original but a couple small scratches no borken tabs. Not sure if your interested in it. Send PM and we can discuss.

  4. "I found it as I was doing my HID install. I felt pretty stupid when I figured it out. So this has made a big difference for my night vision. Between the HID the 162 Gen II LED passing lamps and the proper adjustment..... I'm much happier."

     

    i was wondering about the passing lamps how were they to install? did you have to do any mods to make them fit? i have the cheap one from northern tool but they are just that "cheap" need to replace with better quality

     

    I bought them from Custom Dynamics. They are not plug and play because on the RSV with the Yamaha passing lights you will need to make a couple wire connections within the lamp housing. Easy to do though. The actual LED unit is a sealed unit and fits within the lamp housing just as the bulb does. Very easy install.

  5. The kit I bought has a female plug that fits the male plug you remove from the headlight bulb housing when you remove the bulb. Then you put the new bulb and housing into the lamp hole. You do connect a separate little plug to actuate the high low xeon function. Yep, that's what I read about separate power. I elected to not worry about the bulb powering up during startup. I have several friends with these bulbs that have been running them for a couple years without separate power. I'll carry my original bulb for backup. Easy to switch back to regular bulb if ballast went bad or bulb.

  6. Prior to the hid mod I ran a 85/100 sylvainia I think it was from NAPA. Pkg was marked off road. Lol. Biggest reason I changed to HID was the more I got cold feet running the other with the high power draw. It lit up plenty good, but HID has less draw because its powered off a relay from battery and much bigger wire.

     

    You make me think here. My HID pkg just plugs straight into the stock headlight lamp plug witch runs through the ignition switch. I wired my passing lights direct to the battery so no added draw through the ignition. I've seen others speak of wiring the HID direct to the battery. Am I putting a tremendous load on the ignition switch with my HID setup? Once the light is powered up the energy draw drops but the initial start up is what I'm wondering.

  7. So how much better headlight performance do you now have? I've thought about doing this mod myself.....

     

    Way better!!! I love it. I ordered the kit that had the adapter for the Yamaha RSV headlamp plug. Took me 15 mins. for the main headlamp. The LEDs for the passing lamps I got from Custom Dynamics. Took maybe 20 mins.

     

    The lighting uses less draw over all.

     

    Love the updated look too.

     

    Appreciate y'all giving me a pass on this one. To quote Will Rogers..... "We are all ignorant just on different subjects".

  8. I didn't do an extensive search for this topic but I've never seen this documented. The first time I ever split the fairing I disconnected that little brass sleeve at the end of the headlight adjustment knob on my 2008 RSV without realizing it. I've been driving for more than a year with the headlamp lower than it should have been not realizing that I had lost my adjustment.

     

    I found it as I was doing my HID install. I felt pretty stupid when I figured it out. So this has made a big difference for my night vision. Between the HID the 162 Gen II LED passing lamps and the proper adjustment..... I'm much happier.

     

    So if you have an adjustment knob on your model year and you have ever split the fairing check to see if the knob has tension as you turn it counter clockwise. That would the direction to raise the lamp thus you should feel tension. If it turns too freely it is not connected.

     

    Just thought I'd share my stupidity in case I'm not all alone.

  9. I decided to give one more thing a try. I ordered a small low voltage trigger SS relay. $7.50. I'll try it soon I get it. It will take a 3v trigger. Almost anything should make that one work. Again, I'm trying this just in case that power line that comes to life in the stereo head unit harness reading 10v but actually only powers the little LED in the stereo controller unit. Hope this works but manual on/off is working too. I just hate giving up on a thing.

  10. R1 and R6 calipers show up on eBay constantly.... Probably will until they stop wrecking 'm... I've picked up several very nice ones for $35-$45 bucks with a $10 buck shipping fee... Be patient and be picky.

     

    Condor: I see a bunch of front R1 calipers on eBay but I don't know what year will fit my 2008 RSV? Can you advise me?

  11. I did see those relays in my research but I was afraid they were a bit too delicate for a cycle application. I decided to tie the remote power to an accessory switch I had already run to the front long time ago. I can power the amps on and off manually with that switch. That will work for me just fine I think. I tested every lead coming from the head unit. Either they are constant hot or low voltage. Oh well at least I can shut them down if I don't want them on.

  12. Yes that is my work around. I tie the remote power wire to a known 12v souce powered when the ACC is on (always on battery tender). But that means the amps both are powered up even when the head unit is off. You may be right about the 10 v from the head unit not even being enough to trigger a relay for some odd reason.

     

    Just tested that theory. I put an acc hot to the trigger souce and the relay came to life sending 12 v to the remote power wire. The 10 v on coming out of the head unit won't trigger the relay. Dang it now what.

  13. May be too late, but why not run the 12 trigger source from the bike lighting or the ACC connection on the fuses?

     

    You would need to turn the key on ACC or ignition, but I dont think you want to run an amp at full power off the bike battery (while the bike is shut off) for long periods of time anyway.

     

    It sounds like the 10v trigger from the head unit is not designed to power even a relay, but I'm not sure since I'm not looking at the specs or schematic.

     

     

     

    Yes that is my work around. I tie the remote power wire to a known 12v souce powered when the ACC is on (always on battery tender). But that means the amps both are powered up even when the head unit is off. You may be right about the 10 v from the head unit not even being enough to trigger a relay for some odd reason.

  14. I THINK I sent you a relay in the mail. Meant to. Anyways any relay will do, same as one you used on horn. 86 to ground, 87 to power to trigger amps. 30 to 12V 85 from the head unit that sends out 10V When you flip it on, power goes to 85 draws it from 30 and sends it to 87. You already know this your just excited. Hope I sent ya a Relay, I get em for $4 I meant to send ya one, I bough em on sale.

     

    So I have it all hooked up. Everything is as expected with power at 10 v coming from the head unit on 85, ground on 86, 87 has power to trigger amps and 30 is my 12 v input. Leads are hot except for 87. No power going down the line to the amps. What could be wrong here?

  15. I THINK I sent you a relay in the mail. Meant to. Anyways any relay will do, same as one you used on horn. 86 to ground, 87 to power to trigger amps. 30 to 12V 85 from the head unit that sends out 10V When you flip it on, power goes to 85 draws it from 30 and sends it to 87. You already know this your just excited. Hope I sent ya a Relay, I get em for $4 I meant to send ya one, I bough em on sale.

     

    Hey Mike: Yes you did! :) Your very kind my friend. That Rescue tape is cool. I might just have to get me a bunch of that stuff. Thanks again mate.

  16. I just finished installing a Clarion XC1410 with 4 Infinity Reference 4002cfx 300w speakers and a Kenwood KSC-SW11 amped sub-woofer. Pics attached to see finished install. I’d be glad to discuss the work but overall it’s not hard mainly repetitive and keeping track of what goes where.

    Here’s my question. I run the remote power from the head unit power output source which is only live when the head unit is on. That should trigger the amp and sub to power up. The reason it doesn't is the amps require a 12 volt signal and the head unit is only pushing out 10 volts. I have a work around but would still like to have my power to the amps triggered when the head unit comes on. How might I do this? Tie the amps to a device with its own source of power that triggers when it senses the 10 v signal maybe? What’s that device called and where do I buy it?

    As always y’all will come to my rescue I am confident.

    [ATTACH][ATTACH]79134[/ATTACH][/ATTACH]

  17. It should also be mentioned that there are LED-compatible flashers out there and that you could replace your main flasher relay (behind the right side cover) with one of those and do away with all the cutting and splicing into the OEM harness.

     

    Furthermore, the other two flasher relays on the bike do not do any flashing: the first one is concerned with the auto-cancel feature and the second one simply routes the flashing signal to the handlebar switch (so that you can "flash right" or "flash left") OR to both sides, bypassing the switch (when the hazards are on). In plain English, this means replacing the main flasher relay would fix both normal operation AND hazards with one shot :-)

     

    I'm using this one (http://www.louis.de/_202bf819206f2f633c8b6e367857362c51/index.php?topic=artnr_gr&artnr_gr=10032271) on my bike and works like a charm with both filament bulbs and LEDs. It's an European site, but I'm sure you must have a similar equivalent in the US as well. Also, note that it has the same connector as the OEM one so installing it is straightforward.

     

    Hope this helps!

     

    I'm not an expert but everything I've seen replacing a flasher causes us to loose auto cancel feature. It would be nice to have a new flasher that still has the auto cancel but I can't find one.

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