quant55
-
Posts
41 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Events
Store
Posts posted by quant55
-
-
If you don't want to invest too much changing rotors, using high perf sport calipers, designing adapters and so on I'll recommend you to: rebuild the masters cylinders for both front and rear brakes, switch to steel braided lines, rebuild the calipers (pay attention to the wear of the cylinders) and switch to CL brake pads. It was told me to try Nissin but they were not available immediately. Giving up using EBC, Ferodo, Goldfren and so made a huge difference for me. Delinking the brakes in my opinion is just a matter of personal option.
-
Thanks guys. As mentioned earlier, part of the maintenance I did just before this issue arose was to adjust the valves. Replaced the cover gaskets and the rubbers at that time. The valve covers were the first place I checked when I found the oil leak.
When I got to work this morning it really looked like the oil was coming from the Twinkie area. Although I will have another look at it when I get to work again in the morning.
Did you used OEM gaskets or Athena? I once used Athena gaskets and after one month I had to use instant silicone gasket to glue the valve covers and stop the oil leaking.
-
On decell? I think wrist pins make noise mainly on decell. But if you say its on the left side, possibly stator related?
Yes, it is heard mainly on decell and it is heard on the lower side (not left side) of the engine. It is not a high tonality sound like the cams sound or a timing chain sound.
-
Attached a picture from another thread regarding this block, if it is the same one. There is some significant damage under the near main bearing in picture.
That may be cause noise you are hearing., Maybe not, but a good starting point.
Post #15:
http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?p=822076#post822076
Gary
Dingy, that block has been replaced. This story is closed now.
-
Regarding the 'knocking' and previous bearing replacement, it is possible the bearing fitment size was incorrect resulting in either excess bearing clearance, or, not enough clearance for oil flow. As an experiment, try a temporary addition of a quart of 90wt gear oil added after draining 1 quart of the crankcase oil. This will result in a thicker oil that can take up any excess clearance and temporarily quiet the knocking..... if and only if there is excess bearing clearance that is the issue. If no change in sound, then it is not an excess clearance issue so change the oil to eliminate the 90/30 mix and get back to normal oil.
Another source of knocking on decel could be slack timing chain/s due to worn or damaged chain guides.
-Pete, in Tacoma WA USA
Thanks. The knocking was present before replacing the bearings. The new bearings were fitted based on the crankcase/crankshaft/connecting rods markings. The timing chains had been replaced also. Trying to hear exactly the source of the knocking with a stethoscope I found out the noise is coming from the lower side of the engine, approx. from the crankshaft area. Also, the knock can be heard as soon as the engine get hot, not immediately after starting it, and yes, I tried 10W40 and 20W50 mineral oil. The knock is lighter if 20w50.
-
I have a knocking inside the engine. It's being heard especially on deceleration. The plane bearings on the crankshaft had been replaced, also the connecting rods bearings. Any ideas?
Also, the crankshaft (together with pistons) from the 2nd gen venture would fit 1st gen? Does anyone has any experience with that? I know the PN for crankshaft and pistons are different, but from pictures, those looks to be the same.
-
And of course look at the choke plates to make sure they are not sticking.
As I promised I am back. I checked the choke, but it was fine. I replaced the air cut off diaphragms then I did a carb re-sync and now everything is as it was supposed to be.
Thanks for your help!
-
I'll replace the air cut off diaphragm on tomorrow. Float needle leaking and jet block gasket... I'll check them tomorrow as well. Thanks. I'll come back tomorrow with news.
-
Hello,
I have two carbs with this symptom. It is so rich that if I totally close the mixture screw I'm seeing the engine idle is increasing. The same if I'm removing the blind plug from the carburateur joints, the idle rpm is increasing a lot. Also the spark plugs are black.
Can someone to advise on causes for very rich mixture?
The facts: The large diaphragms have no holes and the sliders are moving freely. All the jets are clear. The air cut off diaphragms have one small hole (each of them actually, on all 4 carbs).
Might the air cut off diaphragm be the cause for very rich mixture? What else should I check?
Thank you!
-
anyone replace the fairing mirrors with aftermarket handlebar mounted mirrors? the rh mirror has been broken off and seems to be difficult to locate one used or new (not that I tried real hard) and thought that maybe it would be a benefit to have some a/f mirrors instead.
Your mirrors are still available as new from the dealers:
right mirror http://www.boats.net/parts/detail/yamaha/Y-26H-26290-01-00.html
left mirror http://www.boats.net/parts/detail/yamaha/Y-26H-26290-11-00.html
-
Ok, the crank case just arrived. Some painting needed but else is in excellent condition. I hope this time everything will go fine with the engine.
-
I see. I don't have a RSV crank here so I can't do any comparison. It would be nice if the pistons will fit. I tried to look also at different pictures on the internet to compare the pistons and crankshaft from VR and RSV. They actually, from the pictures, looks to be the same. I think maybe they're made from different alloys, not necessarily they have different shapes and sizes.
By the other hand, I just located a cheap a crank case that apparently looks good:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/191030092943?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
Could you please take a look at it and let me know your opinion if this piece worth or not? I tried to ask them for more pictures but maybe due to language barrier (because my technical english is far to be perfect
) I had no success. If you can find out more from them it would be very useful for me. Thank you. I really don't understand what exactly means "fire damage" in their description. I'm seeing the same at another item http://www.ebay.com/itm/89-Yamaha-Venture-Royale-XVZ1300-1300-HEAD-CYLINDER-VALVE-SET-/310754306651?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item485a666a5b and wires from the coils melted in another picture: http://www.ebay.com/itm/89-Yamaha-Venture-Royale-XVZ1300-1300-COILS-COIL-/190910692099?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c7329fb03 but it is not clear to me if there is something wrong with the crankcase.
-
I don't think so, because the engine is still 1300cc and the rings are the same so the crank should be similar. Also the crank bearings are the same...
-
Gary, I finally decided to go with crankcase replacement. In the same time, I'm just wondering what if I'll rebore the cylinders… but I'm seeing the PN for pistons are marked as obsolete. Looking at the later models I see the rods are the same, the piston pin and bolts are the same and even the piston rings are the same, but the pistons have different part number now. Do you have any idea if the 4XY-11635-00-00 (from RSV) can be used to replace 1NL-11635-00-00. What are the differences between the two? Thank you.
-
I absolutely agree with Gary, 4th pic is toast. I personally wouldn't use that case assembly, and without and excellent welder and machinist you could be looking to have to replace it.
Thank you. I'm looking now on the eBay and it looks there is no good engine (or case) available for VR 86-93. I'll have to wait until one will become available. I'm thinking to run for a while with this case and I wonder what would be the impact? How soon should I expect other issues? The clearance is about 0.20mm.
Another question is if the case from RSV can be used with the cylinder heads from the VR90. (I have here nearby one available RSV for sale)
-
As I previously told you, I suppose that this has been caused by that J1 J4 bearings swapping, that later caused the crankshaft to stay only the J2&J3 and probably causing it to balance from left to right and to hit that surface. I'm not seeing any other reason at this point and nothing else looks wrong. The side machined surface of the crankshaft looks good, without any sign.
-
Gary, I'll double check tomorrow the way the main bearings were installed, but myself I figured out exactly the same positions as you mentioned for both main and balancer bearings.
The odd thing is that old the J1 and J4 bearings were installed reversed… and also the balancer bearings were reversed also.
As I'm not the first owner of this bike, I assume someone worked inside the engine and messed up with the bearings. The fact is that J1 and J4 were almost destroyed. See the attached pictures of the down half of the bearings. The inversion of J1 with J4 I think it might explain somehow the destruction of the main bearings. I'll double check also the wear of the balancer bearings.
Another thing is that the crankcase has been hit by the crankshaft. See the fourth picture. And now I have at that point about 0.2mm clearance between the crankshaft and crankcase. Do you think this should be addressed also or I can live with this without any trouble?
I'll try to call you tomorrow after I'll double check how the bearings were previously installed for a final clarification. Thank you.
-
Gary, my bearings came from the manufacturer, so I started to look at the engine to replace the old ones with the new ones. Looking at the old bearings I found some traces from the old colors.
The good news is that the old color matches the bearings ordered. The bad news is that I found in the engine the brown color (3) in the J4 position and the green (4) in the J1. From my understanding from the service manual is that the J1 is near the flywheel… is that correct?
Also, the counter balancer the new and old color matches, but they looks to be reversed. From my understanding, the balancer bearings should be yellow (5) and green (4). Which one should be on the right of the engine and which one on the left? (see the pictures from my previous posts please about the marks: 7 6 on the case and 2 2 on the balancer). Is the (5) on the right of the engine and the (4) on the left?
Thank you,
-
Thank you Gary. Based on the info you provided these were my results also. I think that I properly understand and now I am ready to order my spares
-
Gary, now about the crankcase. Here there are the two images. Please help me understand the meaning of them. Also I attached the crankshaft and counterbalancer. Thank you.
-
Ok Gary, thanks. Today based on your pictures, I found the marks on the counter balancer. About the conecting rods, here are 3 pictures. It looks to read 9A7 but… and I'll wait for your opinion, is this the expected mark? Which is the digit to be considered?
PS I have also the marks from the crankcase but I'll post them in a separate reply.
-
Thanks Gary. I hope to manage to get the info I need based on your help. If not I'll come back with pictures from the crankcase, shafts and rods.
-
do you have more details please?
-
My engine (VR90) need to be rebuild. After inspecting the plane bearings I decided to replace them. The crankshaft looks fine, but the plane breaings are gone. So I started to snipe for the journal size markings on the crankcase, crankshaft, connecting rods and counter balancer. I found the stamped marks on the crankshaft, I found also the marks on the crankcase. But the ink marks on the counter balancer and those from the connecting rods are gone or unreadable.
Can somebody offer an alternate method to determine the "color" of the plane bearings… something based on the measurements of the old bearings maybe. I'm somehow disperate as I don;t know how to handle this. Please help.
Regards,
Corneliu Tanasa
) I had no success. If you can find out more from them it would be very useful for me. Thank you. 
option chrome cover
in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
Posted
Hi, I just got the right chrome cover that is replacing the plastic one on the right side. I'm a little bit confused because I see the gap between the clutch cover and this chrome cover is very small, the cover actually sits on the clutch cover. Is it the way it should be? See the attached picture. Thanks,
Corneliu