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mspookw

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Posts posted by mspookw

  1. Hi All,

    After work several weeks ago I got on my 89 VR to go home and found hardley ant pressure at the cluch master cyl. When I put it in gear it jumped and stalled. It did this several times. Finally I had to start it in gear. Luckily it was later at night because at every stop the clutch dragged so bad that at a full stop it would stall. By the time I got home it would release so I could stop but I couldn't get it in to neutral without shutting it off. The engage point was just off the grip all I had to do was relax my grip not even extend my fingers. I bled and bled the system but the pressure didn't change much. I thought about rebuilding the master cyl. But I have a project bike in the barn with a clutch that has great pressure and feel. Reluctantly I swapped cyl's. Now my rider has good clutch feel.

     

    All this to ask why would it release when it got warm? Where can I get ss braided lines? Any used?

     

    Thanks

    Mike

     

    They used to call me Spook because I always wore black. That user name was taken when I signed up for e-mail so I put my initials m-----w on. It's not Ms. poo kw. I should have given it more thought.

    lol.:rotf:

  2. On my smaller Jap bikes; rm 125, honda sl350, t 250, xs 650 I almost always upshifted without clutching by just blipping the throttle. Downshifting is smoother using the clutch. When I had my Harleys; 49 pan, 80'' flh I always use the clutch up and down. There seemed to be just too much spinning mass in there to make shifting without the clucth graceful. With my 89 vr I clutch up and down. My v65 sabre I shift up without clutching when I'm in a hurry. Which is most of the time on that bike.

     

    A down shifting technique I have used in situations where I need to slow down fast is to clutch and go down 2 gears and feather the clutch in to control tire chirp. I wouldn't recommend it on wet roads though.

  3. I'm working on a '86'vr that I bought as a parts bike. The dealer said that it would only run if they poured gas down the carbs. He didn't want to mess with it. Turns out the fuel pump relay had some thing rattling around inside it, cut it open and found little electrical stuff burned off.

     

    Question 1. Can I use the Class relay in place of fuel relay? It plugs right in and runs the fuel pump but, it looks way different than the correct relay. (I'm eliminating the Class system)

     

    Question 2. Is the diode in the starting circuit essential or can it be bypassed? When in neutral the start button wouldn't work I pull the clutch lever, button works. Tested diode

    D2 not working properly shows infin. on both poles D1 ok resister read 8.3 omhs. When I jump the D2 poles the start button works fine.

     

    Mike

  4. I got an 86 xvz1300 parts bike. I use some parts off it. Now looking at it as a street rat project. What electrical systems can I eliminate ie. class, audio, instrument cluster, ect. and still make it run? I'd like a bare bones basic system including charging/starting, ignition and lights. Will the engine run without the computer stuff in the gauge cluster? Would like the anti-dive to work. Someone must have tried this before any help would be greatly appreciated.

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