Razorback
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Posts posted by Razorback
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I bought 7mm Belden solid copper wire from my local NAPA store. Less than $1 per foot.
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Might be cracked coils. They'll cut up when everything warms up.
Not sure that this is related directly, but I wonder if it's way too rich. Might check all mixture screw settings. Turn each one all the way in, very gently, counting the number of turns exactly, to the 1/8 of a turn. I think we mostly agree that they should be about 2-3 turns out from the lightly seated position (bottomed).
May not help, but won't hurt to check.
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Thanks a ton!
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Aftermarket trunk guard lights. MK2
I smashed a couple. I also have a few that have faded to pink.
Who originally made these accessories?
Can I get replacement lenses?
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/15/ymaqe7ed.jpg
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Pinholes in diaphragms? If you can't pull enough vacuum against diaphragm, you can't pull needle open far enough to get all it will do.
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There are several safety mechanisms on the bike that could fail. Side stand switch seems like a more common failure. Mine was disabled when I bought my bike.
Have you checked or cleaned the stop/run switch on the right handlebar? They can go wonky and kill all your power.
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Starter and stator replaced? Nice. That will save a lot of labor down the road.
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I a
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I think he measured from the cap to ground...ie cap, wire, secondary coil winding?
Correct, my 23k-ish reading was always through the coil secondary.
All checks (cap, wire, coil primary, secondary, etc) are within spec.
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Radio Shack has a 12V led for 2.49 I think. Jeff knows why I know this.
A First Gen should have a temp gauge.
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I believe that I've read that 8mm won't fit inside the coil, but 7mm is correct.
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It's not permanent, but I'm fixed for now, thanks to the suggestion by one of the board members
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Her is a good place to start your search, laid out in a logical order.
Yes! This exactly.
Jeff has been a huge help through my ordeal, and before with his valve shim tool.
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Bad ground between RR and battery. Inconsistent system voltage was causing a host of problems. Battery, stator and RR were all good.
Currently running a jumper wire (14ga) straight from RR black wire to batt neg until I have time to trace the actual problem in the harness.
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You could set idle at 3000 rpm and check voltage across battery, then check from red to black on RR plug (each side) and see if you get much difference.
Long story short: I have a bad ground somewhere in my harness and wasn't getting full RR output to the battery.
My thread reply count is about 170 posts getting help on it. You'll get a lot of help on it.
I you have the time, read through my post. It's about the 4th one down in the First Gen tech talk.
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What are your symptoms?
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I just went through similar pains myself. Hope I can help. If not, the others surely can/will.
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On my '87, it originates from the neg batt cable as a smaller wire (12 ga?) piggybacked on the main ground, about 4 " from the battery it has a quick disconnect, but continues into the main harness and soon exits the harness to terminate at the coil mounting bracket, right behind the throttle cable cable junction box. On the left side of the frame.
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Now you understand why I kept steering you back to solving the charging issue before messing with anything else.
Absolutely.
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I think i may have electrical gremlins. maybe TCI, maybe coils or wires.
8. checked & cleaned connectors in vicinity of rear shock damper/fuel pump. I did that because I also have a malfunctioning gear position indicator. It wants to indicate 4th gear more than anything.
This problem also went away.
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I was wondering if it was going to be that way. Mine probably doesn't do DC, but no might be able to to borrow one from work, if we have more than one.
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I agree with Flyin Fool, now that you know exactly what the problem is, you can concentrate on finding it. What I probably would do next would be to:
1) Unplug the voltage regulator output leads (red, black and brown wires).
2) Connect a jumper from the bike side of the RR plug black lead(s) to 1 pin of a spare car headlight. Then from the other pin on the car headlight connect the positive lead of your battery charger. Connect the negative lead to the bike chassis ground. Turn on the battery charger and the headlight should light. What you have done here is to cause a couple of amps of current to flow through the black wires to where they are connected to the chassis.
3) Then I'd take my DC clamp-on ammeter and follow the path of the current to where the black leads are terminated. I suspect you'll find the connections behind the headlight. You may find a connection that has been hot and is discolored. An infra-red thermometer combined with step 2 above may also help find the dirty/loose connection. Is there a chance you could borrow a clamp on DC ammeter from some where? You also could take your digital meter and measure the voltage where the jumper is connected to the RR black wires...you should read a small DC voltage (connect the meter common to bike chassis). Then you could check all the black leads behind the headlight and see what you read.
I have a clamp-on meter somewhere around here.
I shall tear into it sometime this weekend between the honey-do's
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I finally got to check the exhaust. Today when I started the bike I notice the two on the rear of the motor got hot real quick. The two on the front didn't get hot until after a couple minutes of running. Nothing like the rear two exhaust.
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Thanks again for your help.
Mine does this as well currently. Not sure about why.
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If you are referring to the 3 pin plug between the R/R and harness, I have them available.
Gary
The other one, 6 pin (5 really, 2 Rd, 2Blk, 1 Br).
1 carb Flooding fuel out the overflow issue?
in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
Posted
Most likely
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