bald josh
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Posts posted by bald josh
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got a philister head bolt with about the same diameter as the pin at the hardware store, drilled out where the pin was and put a nut on either side to hold it. no muss no fuss, and the head is really snug in the rubber grommet.
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my thoughts too, maybe change out spark plugs and check to see that all four are firing. cheap and easy
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Just did the mod, as suggested i picked up both 1k and 2.2 k resistors. the instructions say one or the other will be the right one...??? does that have to do with the batteries power or ?. any way i went with the 2.2, got it hooked up turned the key and no computer icons or red flashing light just the display back lit. the bike still fired up normal. i wiggled some fuses and tried again and it worked normal. wiggled again and the problem was back. would using the 1k resistor instead do anything for this or is it just complete coincidence?
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when ive pulled mine they werent very hard to get out, its been awhile but dont remember reefing on them. maybe with a small blunt tip of a tool you could press around the outer edge to loosen them up. also the threaded tip of a spark plug is the correct thread for plug and gives you something to grab onto. more coolant will leak out when the plug comes so have a rag handy.
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I didnt understand the symptoms, reread and now it makes sense. now it sounds like a switch to me too, but maybe i smoked my breakfast again...gotta quit that
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seems to me that at least on some bikes when idling in neutral on the center stand that the rear wheel turns. could it be a REALLY tied starter motor and when the bike is on the center stand the rear wheel is off the ground and makes it easier to start? ...maybe im smokin my breakfast, just a thought
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I ordered a wire harness for my 86, the ad on ebay was for xvz12/13 so i assumed the harness would be interchangable, its not! the guy i bought from has been INCREDIBLY helpful and will refund my $ + shipping, but he says his parts fiche shows the same for mkI and II.are they the same? a few harness connectors like the coils, pick up coils,tail light, match up but alot of stuff does not. he says he has a few harnesses and they all look the same but as soon as i took it out of the box i knew some things were wrong. any thoughts?
and does anyone have a harness they want to sell. im looking for one in good condition and that will just plug and play, royale or standard is fine.
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i thought the CA emitions plug was green and farther forward...
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as condor says, be ready for anything, but it should be really nice! 101 is a really great road. ive got no suggestions other than to take your time and enjoy the scenery. oh yeah and Manzanita OR is a realy cool little town that is about 100 yards off the road but if you didnt know to stop there you would miss out. and the redwoods, and newport, historic newport, oh yeah and Astoria, such a cool spot, and crecent city and tokeland and tillamook and......its all fantastic! the west is the best! but other than that ....oh yeah i almost forgot about pelican bay brewery and newport WA-surfing, i could go on and on
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normally i use armorall but this is different! i take that back, i dont armorall the dash because it doesnt work so well, gets foamy and looks like it did too. i am going for a week ride and will reporrt back when im home. the bottle "says" for plastic but maybe my dash will melt in the heat and ill regret the whole affair(no pun intended)
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ace hardware. my first thought was to test a panel in the sun for a while and see what happens, but its dupont, so... i went for it. i tend to believe whats written on the can.
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maybe this isnt new, but i see so many great looking paint jobs on this site, but the black plastic still looks like 25 year old, sun beat, black plastic! ive been riding mine and i look at the dash and think, yuck! so i got a hair up my butt and squirted this on it and WOW, looks like brand new 25 year old plastic.says its made for plastic, rubber, wood, leather, i was careful not to hit the controls (slippery) but didnt mask off anything, just wiped her down after. didnt take much and NO prep.
Teflon is carcinogenic (so is used motor oil) so take caution. it worked well on the other plastic, including the wind screen, time will tell if any bad side effects but for now, im real happy with the outcome!!!
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tour pack...top box?...are you sure the locks are closing the lid tight? one of my top boxes leaked for a while in heavy rains and after a bit i noticed that it wasnt closing real tight anymore. i think that over time and use the adjustment slipped. so i readjusted and no more leak.
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I agree with skydoc on the sync, after i did the mod to mine the bike ran pretty poor, hooked up the sync and they were way off. after a sync it ran fantastic!
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I never posted the fix to my problem because i wasnt sure back then. bought a 86 and swapped out wire harness, carbs, coils, tci, boost sensor. and the bike was better, but i couldnt have told you what it was. then i got the 86 running and of course found i had the same problem. So i got new coils and that seemed to fix it. the bike ran good till really warm and then the irradic behavior started up, but new coils and problem solved. the fixx was so long after i posted the problem i never expected to see it come up again on the boards.
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oh yeah forgot about the oil... more than an ounce will come out if full and on flat ground, so leaning to the left you will get even more. when i did mine i think about 1/4 to 1/2 quart came out, realized later i should have put a shim under the left leg of center stand and maybe i wouldnt have lost any.
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nice and shiny is not important! do not file them!!! pretty sure they are just magnets or parts of the magnets, as the fly wheel passes by they are triggered by raised areas and that sends a signal to the ignition. filing them would would destroy them as the gap would be larger and the magnets might not pick up the signal
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just thought of something...maybe a stupid idea but if a person could remotely turn on the vac pump through the wire harness then at idle you should be able to raise the rpms of the bike. then disconnect the power to pump and it should hold those rpms at least for a while???? think i might try it on mine!
wuld be kinda cool if it works, and maybe an easy way to test the whole system for a leak or etc.
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No. it slows down at the same rate as if i had just let off the throttle. i have read in other places (maybe here) that a sticky throttle could lead to problems with the C/C. when i release the throttle it sort of 'sticks' in its position for 3-5 seconds before losing speed [this happens all the time, not just when cruise is engaged] could this be related?
if the throttle doesnt let off for 3-5 seconds with the cruise off then it sounds like two different problems. 1-the throttle should let off right away and 2-the cruise is not working at all. doesnt sound like the cruise makes any difference , just the lights come on but nothing more.
id check the hose between motor and diaphragm first, maybe its not even connected
then see if the motor runs to create vacuume, hook up a vac guage to see if it will run under pressure and how much it will build
then check the diaghragm to see if it will hold vacuume.
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is the problem that with the cruiseon the bike slows down on its own, slower than if you just let off the throttle, but slowly dropping speed? id look into a vaccume leak if thats the case.
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cut three wires to switch, splice together, maybe solder em, wrap with tape and stuff em back in the frame..... then all you have to do is put the side stand up before you roll!
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wife and i just road 20 on sunday, over to winthrop and back for breakfast. its probably one of my all time favorite roads!!!
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if at idle the tach drops to zero then i would think no spark to at least #2 cylinder.that combined with say, poorly synced carbs might be the problem.
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so i was going to do the needle/shim mod @ a year ago and ran into the same prob as 84xj, i just put it back together stock and forgot about it. yesterday i thought id try again and went and got the washers from ace and same problem, the needles had no play in and out, a little side to side but none in and out. i remembered this post and searched for it. my needles do not have any adjustment?!? so looked a little closer and discovered the prob/solution. not all washers will have the exact OD measurement and sure enough the ones from my local ace are too big. i think the area inside the slider that the needle/ clip/ washers fit into is tapered and so it all seems to fit fine at first but when you start to tighten it down there is not enough room for the washers to seat proper. I could feel it when tightening, but was unsure why. i went back and found nylon washers 1 the same thickness as two stainless washers but with an OD just a bit smaller and all works perfect. now there is free play in and out like stock.
I did try and slide the slides into the carbs with the stainless washers and i could feel the needles rubbing in and out. dont want to cause alarm but if you dont know if there was free play with the needles id check. and i bet Eds washers are spot on so the carb mod kit he sells would be worth it.
attached pic is of a stainless washer STUCK inside the slide.
im gonna go for a ride this weekend and enjoy checking the fuel mileage.
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Hey you Vancouver BC People - Ever seen wheelchair rugby?
in Watering Hole
Posted
watched a documentary a while back called "murder ball" very cool! these guys are some tough SOBs. netflix it, its good