RossKean
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Posts posted by RossKean
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You might want to take off the lever (one bolt) and pop out the bushing (very easy) and give it a good clean and lube with lithium grease or something similar. Won't take you 10 minutes. Brass on aluminum makes a mess after a time; all kinds of black goo will likely come off it. I used a cotton swab and some varsol to really clean it up.
Ross
Thanks M8.. I lubed the clutch lever area this morning on my way to course and it stopped squeaking and felt a lot smooth.. good friction zone again..Harsh riding in 40 kph winds, gusting 65 kph on the highway.. woof =)
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There is a little brass bushing in the clutch lever. This pushes the clutch actuator piston. A drop of oil on the bushing may help. I had to replace the bushing on mine because it was severely worn - don't think the previous owner ever lubed it. (Yes, it squeaked and made the clutch feel notchy). Part number is SKU: 3GM-26455-00-00;
cryptically identified as "BUSH" on the parts fiche.
Ross
I'm starting to think I might actually have an additional problem with my clutch, even though I had a shop bleed and flush the clutch fluid and I installed new steel and fiber plates.the lever is now making squeaky noises when pulling in the clutch and, this is hard to explain, but feels like I'm not getting a consistent clutch lever movement to the friction zone..
Before changing the clutch parts out, my friction zone was so minimal it sucked.. After I installed the new plates on, it was back to what I felt was normal.. After some more riding, I feel as if the friction zone play on the lever is again reduced but a solid clutch..
But the squeaking in the clutch lever now has me nervous.. Has it always been there but I never heard it due to the radio? I hear it now because my radio died.. argh.. lol
I'll lube the lever hinge but dunno if that's the noise or if it's something else..
ergh
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I have always loved my avon tires on the 1st Gen and Love them with this 2nd Gen I have enough tread for my trip to Don's Maintenance Day I was planning to get my tires done there
You members with the 2nd Gens have a variety of tires .What the max mileage you got from your front and rear tires and what make are they
I know that when I had the avons on the rear average wa 12,000 miles on the rear A little past the wear bars
I managed 16,000 miles (25,000 km) from a set of Dunlop E3's. Nice handling tires. I think some people have reported even more mileage from these - depends on roads, temperatures, inflation and riding style. I would recommend them.
Ross
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Mine measured at 0.060" - guess that means I should hold off on the install (mine's not slipping badly enough to change it out with the wrong parts and there's no point wasting a gasket).
Earl, I sent you an email.
Just posted to bump this up in case it was missed by someone who got the wrong spring.
Ross
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I'm moving on...
Sold my Venture and bought an FJR. The Venture will always hold a special place in my memory like my R5C and TX650. An awesome bike for long straight roads.
Slab Pig
I'm in the process of doing the same thing. My 2002 RSMV isn't sold yet but I am picking up a 2007 FJR in the next week or so.
Ross
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I think you are correct in that they are JIS, I did however find
that grinding a Philips screw driver down on the tip a bit helped a little bit better.
I love the idea of the Allen head though.. did you have to grind the head of the Allen bolt at all? (to make it fit)
Thanks,
Jeff
I can't remember the size of the Allen bolts I used but there was no problem with clearance for the head in the recess in the lens. I wrapped a little teflon tape around the upper part of the shaft to act as a gasket to keep water intrusion to a minimum. Its now very easy to remove the headlight lens; much better than before...
One note: You have to be careful tightening the Allen bolt - very easy to over-tighten and crack the lens.
Ross
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The screws in the blinkers rusted on mine so I replaced the amber lenses with clear and replaced the stock screws with stainless Allen heads. they are far better than the Phillips. Actually wondering if the stock screws (like some others on the bike) are JIS rather than Phillips. It might explain why they stripped. Although the JIS looks like Phillips, they don't fit the screwdriver the same way.
Ross
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Kirby
Of course, a fully integrated CD emulation is clearly the best option. It still remains to be seen if the proposed system will work with the Clarion C-Bus system - this has been an issue with other stuff in the past.
The cassette described in the link I provided is an immediate solution and is substantially less expensive than the proposed device. Again, I'll probably not do either as the GPS serves as my MP3 player right now.
I'm not recommending any one particular solution but I came across the information and thought that there might be some people who might be interested. I would have some concerns as well of the potential sound quality on the cassette device but I doubt it would be an issue on the noisy environment of a motorcycle - same with our cheap 4" speakers.
Ross
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This is not an adapter, but an actual MP3 player. This would mean that the MP3 player is completely enclosed in the cassette without wires or internal hook-ups. It is also a stand-alone MP3 player that takes SD cards that could be used off the bike as well. It might also work with the cassette "skip" function to pass over tunes you don't want to hear (don't know). I don't know whether I will try this or not because I generally use the built-in MP3 in my GPS. I couldn't use the cassette/MP3 at the same time as listening to voice prompts on the GPS.
Ross
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Was over at the Delphi forum and saw a discussion on the infamous Venture cassette. Someone mentioned an MP3 player that fit into a cassette but didn't specify a source. I did a little looking and came up with:
http://usb.brando.com/usb-cassette-mp3-player-ii_p01481c035d15.html
Somebody has to try one of these and let us know about audio quality, output power (volume), battery life etc. I wonder if the "skip" function would work - if so, it might be a perfect solution. (if sound quality is satisfactory and the rechargable battery is good for 8 hr or more)
This same device came up in a number of locations searching on "cassette MP3 Player". Be careful because many of the devices that come up on a search are just cassette adaptors that you plug the MP3 player into while this can be used as a stand-alone MP3 or as a cassette surrogate. This one is a newer version that has a remote (not very useful on a bike) but also supports high capacity (16gb) SD cards.
Thought I would throw it out there in case anyone is interested.
Ross
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have you tried a coat of clear on them after you clean them up???
After the Dremel, the surface still looks pretty bad - no chrome left at all. The clearcoat on top still wouldn't look very good. I think I'll cover them with something. If the heat-shrink doesn't look good, I'll probably paint them.
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Mine rusted as well. I can remove the surface rust with a wire wheel on a Dremel but it still looks bad and soon comes back. I am thinking about cleaning them up, coating with dielectric grease and putting a piece of black heat-shrink tubing over them. They won't be chrome anymore but should be better than rust. Alternatively, I have considered using some enamel black or silver paint - again, better than the rust.
Ross
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Clutch cover bolts are 7.2 ft-lb, according to the service manual (86.4 in-lb).
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Earl
Just ordered a 2nd gen kit. Although I am in Canada, I am shipping to a Florida address - friend vacationing in Florida will bring it back for me. Hope it ships out next week or it might miss the connection!!
Thanks
Ross
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An old engineer's quote:
Measure with a micrometer
Mark with a crayon
Cut with a chainsaw
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Seaking
You may be a little too fussy with the gapping. I use a wire gauge and don't have problems with standard plugs. I did not gap my iridium plugs - I think they are properly pregapped and have been told it will damage them.
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... What I have discovered so far is that the reason Yamaha sells their stock shock for $450.00 is because it is a cheaply made shock of fair to poor quality and Olin will not put their name on ANY product that doesn't meet their quality standards. Which means that we are going to be talking about a shock that is priced more like the Works replacement shock. ($600.00+/-)
With the financial power of a "Group Buy" I think I can beat the price down somewhat, but to be honest, If $450.00 is buying "Junk" then paying $600.00+/- for THE LAST SHOCK YOU EVER PUT ON YOUR Second Gen. doesn't sound so bad. Like I said, I'm still slappin' these Olin guys around but they slap back pretty hard. I'll keep you posted.
Sorry to get off topic, I guess I just Hijacked my own thread!
Earl
While I don't disagree that a $600 investment in a long term solution might be attractive to the relatively few who put lots of miles on their bikes, I suspect that because of the 5-year Yamaha warranty and the fact that most don't put that many miles on their machines in the run of a year, you will have some difficulty getting enough members interested to make it worth while. Unfortunately, is not the sort of thing you can buy on the basis of pre-orders as there are few who will buy before they have a problem and once they have a problem, they need a new shock "NOW".
I wish you luck with it (the shock) but its not going to be easy.
On the other hand, I think you'll do quite well with the clutch kit. (last comment to bring the thread back to where it started)
Thanks
Ross
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Seaking
I switched to the Iridiums last year and didn't notice any performance change (didn't expect any change). Normally, I wouldn't change the plugs before 15,000 km or more (9,400 miles). With the Iridiums, I don't plan to even check them before 50,000 km unless I have performance issues.
Not sure why anyone has a problem with removing the tank. It doesn't take 10 minutes, makes things easier to work on, and gives me a chance to have a good look around and even clean things up a bit.
Ross
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Skydoc
Can you tell me anything about the V-max spring compared to the setup that PCW is selling? I want to do the change this spring because I had a couple of clutch slips toward the end of last season. Are these ready to ship right away? I have a friend who is vacationing in Florida for a few weeks and I might get it shipped to him rather than shipping to Canada and dealing with Customs crap etc.
You had mentioned something about working on a rear shock solution for second gens - wondering if you had any chance to get back to it? (I realize this wasn't very long ago) Shock is still OK but I don't expect it to last too much longer. Unfortunately, this is a difficult thing for you to plan in terms of sales for the amount of work you have to put into it. Nobody is going to order a fairly expensive item like this until their shock actually pukes. All I can say is that if (when) my shock quits, I'll be looking for aftermarket alternatives if the price is right - would have to beat the best on-line price for an OEM (~$450) by a reasonable margin.
Thanks for your efforts!!
Ross
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Just a heads up - the "Cat" high speed ferry to Yarmouth has been cancelled.
+1 on the Cabot Trail. Road condition is not great but it is very much a worthwhile excursion. Lots of pretty good riding in Nova Scotia. Be sure to pick up the NS publication at the link posted by Keith (above).
Ross
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People are talking about a OEM shock replacement cost on the order of $600-$700. South Seattle Yamaha lists it for $427 on their website. A reliable (or at least economically rebuildable) replacement shock would have to sell for less than the OEM price. $300-$350 would certainly get my interest.
Ross
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I will be most interested in seeing what you come up with!! Still on the original shock on a 2002 RSMV with 80,000 km; most (more than half) of which has been put on the bike in the last year and a half (previous owner didn't ride much). Given the age and mileage, I'm probably on borrowed time!
In reference to your Crash Test Dummies, I think the following link might be relevant!!
[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ihUIPlLw2ZE]YouTube- Crash Test Dummies: Superman's Song[/ame]
Ross
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Somebody needs to do a "How to" for installation. Type of system, recommended vendors, location for ballast and wires etc - lots of pictures so I can do it while avoiding mistakes. HID lights have really come down in price.
I am wondering if it is worthwhile to use the type with the solenoid-operated shield for Hi-Lo beam or whether a purpose-built low beam only would put out enough light; especially if you already have driving lights. Are the bi-xenons mechanically reliable?
Ross
Octane
in Watering Hole
Posted
If it doesn't ping, there is NO value in running higher octane gasoline. The confusion comes about because of definitions used in North America vs elsewhere. The 91 refers to the RON (research octane number) which is NOT the number on the pump in the USA. Read this Wikipedia article:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Octane_rating