bmannon
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Posts posted by bmannon
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as of today i have 1k miles on mine, showing no wear. ride perfect, no problems at all. i do not ride in the rain or pull a trailor so i can not comment on that however.
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Nope, just comparison between pulling the starter & doing a starter clutch. That is all.......
ok, had me worried there! i wasnt sure if i was being told that the starter clutch had to come out also. i feel relieved now.
so what about the gasket, is it something i should be able to home brew if i need it?
and one more thing, thanks to everyone for the help
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Here is the link to the starter clutch repair. This is after the stator & middle gear covers are removed. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=5944
The exhaust pipe removal, for pulling the starter is much easier.
THIS ISNT NECESSARY TO REMOVE THE STARTER IS IT?
I am just planning on pulling the starter motor and cleaning it up.
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GeorgeS is right. The header pipe is a couple of bolts. The pain in the a$$ part is loosening of the thermostat housing to get that extra wiggle room so the starter will drop out. You may want to order a gasket for that in case it won't move and you have to scrape it off.
is it a simple gasket? could i make one?
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Removeing header pipe is no big deal
Replaceing the Starter Engage Clutch, IS a Big Deal !!
can you enlighten me?
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yep , it is fun .
Thom
great.............
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i have been using a single gauge to do mine. have to hook it up to one carb at a time, but it works. advanceautoparts has a gauge for $30 some dollars that would work (not the one I have, but similar)
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The magentic Force in Combination with Electric Power starts to induce Current into the Armature. The Armature starts to turn and without Load, depending on the Drag in Bearings or Seals the Armature will have gained enough Power to keep on running even if you shut down the Voltage. But not only it will keep on running, it will start to spin faster and faster to the Point where the the Armature can't keep himself togehter. Then it will disintegrate, explode, literally. I've seen Pics of such Scenes and this is a Disaster. .
sounds like perpetual motion to me.... (any closed system that produces more energy than it consumes. Such a device or system would be in violation of the law of conservation of energy, which states that energy can never be created or destroyed.)
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never easy on these machines is it?
i hope it is just a loose connection, the bike rides fine with no air up front, but i would like it to work proper.
You need to remove the trunk and the rack, under that is the plastic cover for the CLASS system. Check the hose connections for leaks, sometime they loosen and you won't notice until you get to it. While you are there, it's a good time to dry out your air dryer. It's a canister laying beside the class system, take it out and carefully remove all the contents onto a plate, watch it, because it's all small gravel like stuff that is light and rolls out of sight in no time flat, it's called selica gel. Put in the micro wave for about 2 minutes or until the color is a nice deep blue. It is now regenerated and good for a few more years. -
Got new fork seals, not leaking there or from the rings on top of the forks where the hoses connect.
Cant hear it coming out anywhere either, and it loses it quick, ie from max to 0 in 30 seconds.
Before I tear the entire bike apart what is the easiest way to access the line going from the compressor to the forks? Also how do you get to the compressor? Just remove the seat?
Thanks in advance!
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Ya, I tried that too... for a few days anyway. And ya, it's loud as he**. But it sure did sound sweet. I had a thought of somehow gutting out a pair of stock mufflers and running a straight pipe all the way through. I also wondered how a glass-pack would work. But then that might look a wee bit gaudy. That could work on the rat bike maybe.
I ended up punching my OEMs out and putting them back on, it just looked a little naked without them.
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sharp looking bike from pic.
thank you, she dont look too bad when its all clean.
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I'm only about 40 miles on the other side of Charleston from you. UP 79.
You don't leave that pretty Blue thing sit outside with the keys in it do you??
:rotfl: What year is that?Its actually sitting outside my office door with the key in the switch, it is a '90 model....
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Huntington
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got the Kendas mounted and have put ~50 miles on them. They are nice and smooth, no noise, no wandering, shaking etc. Do well in the curves too. I am VERY pleased! The only thing I dont like about them is the fugly tread pattern, but I can live with that.
Can anyone comment on how they do on a wet road?
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I will probably get flamed for this. But I like my bikes LOUD, I like to set off car alarms riding thru town, I like to scare old ladies and little kids, I like dogs to wimper and run when I blip the throttle, a loud bike makes me all
so what did I do you might ask? I took the muflers off! Put the turn down tips on the stubs coming out of the collector, and boy does she sound sweet!!!!!! and what did it cost? $0, I guess I coulda paid good money for some new rusty mufflers that I would get to grind on, but they would of made it quieter! -
sounds like he got a bad tire, i would return it if it was a new one from a dealer....
Friend's 88 Std. wanders terrible with the Kruz's, front and rear. Not safe at all over 60mph. We put a Dunlop Elite II on the front from a 2nd 88 and most of the wandering went away. He's going to Avon's this week.We have adjusted all the bearings, read all the posts, spent many hours trying to figure out what was wrong, changed air pressure in tires and suspension, has a Super Brace, reset clamps, axles, triple trees, checked bearings for wear. It was OK before the Kruz's went on.
More if the Avon's fixes the wander, was so bad he almost lost it 3 times going over a well paved mountain road.
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I know this is an old thread but I just wanted to say I just ordered a set of the Kenda Kruz tires and will be putting them on soon. I too am in WV and they will get a hard work out on the twisties. I will let y'all know how they work out.
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from the PM's I have received and comments from this post I think that may be the only viable option.
It is really not that hard to lower your seat. I bought a Corbin seat off ebay that needed the driver seat pad replaced. I took the cover off and while the cover was being repaired, I used an electric carving knife and whittled the seat down a little bit at a time. It made riding the bike so much more comfortable for me and especially those awkard handling moments when you are trying to manover around while walking it.RandyA
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you are close, it is a 450 Honda, not sure who made the frame though, It may be an Amen, but it wasnt a Saviour if it was, it was totally rigid.
She is sportin' 750 yamaha rims and front forks. how about that custon electrical box with the wooden cover
Nice looking bike and liked the old ones too. Was that and old Honda 350 with Amen rigid frame? If so, someone is showing their age. -
thanks again for all comments,
anyone care to guess what #7 is?
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I put wifeypoo on it, gives me about 1/2 an inch then her purse ... lowers it at least another inch!!
i suppose i could put some sandbags in the saddle bags. it would get better traction in the snow too!
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haha!
I just need to eat more, sounds good to me!
:rotfl:
so what did I do you might ask? I took the muflers off! Put the turn down tips on the stubs coming out of the collector, and boy does she sound sweet!!!!!! and what did it cost? $0, I guess I coulda paid good money for some new rusty mufflers that I would get to grind on, but they would of made it quieter!
Bought an '89 Venture SS....FOR SALE
in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
Posted
i disabled the servo on my v-max, BUT if you do this you need to keep some way of manually closing the butterflys, else there is no way to synch the carbs, other than doing it on a bench with feeler gauges.