[New to me 2007 royal star venture]

It's a copy/paste from a recent thread asking similar questions, I hope you find this applicable:

[h=2]Re: To Kreme or not to Kreme[/h]

Having been in the restore business I have tried many many different methods for restoring tanks including electrolisis, acids, sand and bead blasting, rattling bolts in a paint shaker for rust removal/prep for sealing.. Best of the best I have found for prep is White Vinegar - straight strength - filled to the brim and let the tank sit for a week.. Rinse good with water and dry with a heat gun or sit it in the sun.. I welded pipe for years, both Tig and Savick and also did a fair amount of shop tigging/shear work and applied those skills to both restoring tanks and building new. Unfortunately,, with vintage tanks, repairing and repainting takes away from their value.. I learned many years ago the Kreme Coating was not for me. I got pretty good with the stuff but had serious failures with tanks lasting out past 10 years.. The coating would always separate and cause issue with leaking again and get really ugly.. I did a bunch a tinkering with inventing my own coating and had good result using Seal All (yellow tube) as a base and MEK as a suspention/liquifier.. I actually had much better results long term with my homemade coating than I ever saw out of Kreme Coat.. Then I discovered Red Kote (

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Red-Kote-Qu...4AAMXQ1PNRauxA

) and WOWZY,, my tank restoration/repair process was changed for ever.. This is some SERIOUS stuff that I have used very successfully for many years!! Because I never did have access to the Zinc process that large manufacturers use to protect the inside of the new tanks found on all modern steel tank bikes (what happens when a bike tank rusts from sitting is the inside of the tank that is coated with Zink looses it zink, this is why after you acid a tank out to prep it it rusts again very quickly - IMHO of course) I always strove to get the tanks as rust free as possible for adhesion of the coating.. I discovered that this was not necessary with Red Kote.. A simple handful of bolts in the tank, shake it some to knock off the stalagtites,, a quick rinse with vinager and rinse with water, dry with heat gun,, apply the Red Kote and its done.. Complete job in just a couple hours. ANother extremely valuable thing about Red Kote is that it actually makes a tank within the tank and this is HUGE.. NO more patching/welding needed as the coating fills the holes/leaks so you can keep the OEM paint job intact.. I now have bikes out there that I built/restored using Red Kote with +25 years on them and still going strong!! Thats all I know about that Unc!

Puc

 

 

Awesome! I'll look into this if I need it or for future projects.

[New to me 2007 royal star venture]

Hey welcome to the crowd, as far as bars Flanders makes a set for your bike that most guys seem to like. Rick at Buckeye has a complete setup I believe, bars and longer lines incl. Some guys say there is no need to replace lines, just re-route cables. Other guys say they needed new lines./cables. I am sure you will get more info on that from guys who swapped out bars.

 

Craig

 

Thank you, ill look into the flanders.

[New to me 2007 royal star venture]

Hi J and !!

 

and CONGRATS on the ""new"" scoot!!

 

If it were mine, before I headed off to parts unknown - looking for adVenture out in the great desert regions and beyond,, I would drop a set of sync gauges on it,, even if the gauges show nothing exciting (like sticky carbs slides or the like) = IMHO, these V-4's love to be in sync,, helps power - fuel economy and all that.. Worth a check IMHO..

I would also lift it up, engage the brakes front and rear while giving the wheels a spin and then check and make sure the pads/calipers are disengaging properly.. I have found that cleaning the caliper pistons when ever I have a wheel off for tire change or what ever keeps the brakes operating properly..

I also would have (hope you did?) greased the pins and splines during the rear tire swap.. Its probably not an emergency status in your case cause, at 11k miles, your 07 is just about broke in from new BUT,, next tire swap,, might not be a bad idea..

Also,, I think if it were mine,, having sat for a while,, I would take a pen light and a mirror and take a peek at the fuel tank interior = rust is not your friend in that location.. Dont be fooled into thinking you can win the rusty tank battle with fuel filters (IMHO of course).. If its rusty,, coat it.. Murphy LOVES rusty tanks and clogging carbs with the rust there from at the most incredible times..

 

Puc

 

Thanks for the advice. So far I have flushed the brake fluid, changed the oil and filter, changed the fuel filter, checked the air filters and put in new plugs.

 

I have an Ivan's jet kit, brake pads, tank bib, and most importantly a cup holder coming in this week.

 

As far as the carb sync goes. I'll be holding off till I get the jet kit installed (I'm currently deciding which brand of gauge and shop tach I want to order).

 

I had the tire replaced at a shop since I haven't purchased a lift yet, but I did ask them to lube pins and splines.

 

I have looked insure the tank but not with a inspection mirror. It looks good but I will take your advice and look with the mirror. If rusting has started what do you reccomend?

 

Thanks again!

[New Members/Trial Members PLEASE READ]

I get several emails per day from newer members/trial members asking why they are suddenly unable to search forums, download attachments and various other things. You get a message that says something like "you do not have permissions" to perform certain tasks.

 

Pretty much 100% of the time it is because your trial membership or your supporting membership has expired. I then often get an email back stating something like "thank you but I didn't realize that it was a trial membership".

 

This post is meant to be informative, NOT scolding. When you go to the home page of VentureRider.org and read the introduction, it clearly states that you are signing up for a free 60 day trial. When you get your welcome email, it also welcomes you to your free 60 day trial.

 

I am not trying to trick anybody here. I try to make it very clear that the free membership is indeed for a 60 day trial. I also state that upon completion of the free trial or sooner if you like what you find here, full membership is only $12.00 per year. Folks that is $1.00 per month and I think affordable for most anybody. I hope so. As cheap as it is, if you truly have some serious financial issues just send me a message. I have given a free years to several people who were truly having problems.

 

Now let me say that almost everybody is OK with the answer once they learn that their trial membership has simply expired. I've only had one person ever who got upset about it. He was from somewhere in California and said that he was a retired cop and he knew a thing or two about "bait and switch" scams and that he was never told that it was only a free trial. I'm sorry people, but if a retired cop missed ALL the notifications that the free membership was only a 60 day trial then I'm guessing that he wasn't a detective.

 

So like I said, this post is not meant to scold anybody, well except maybe that retired cop if he even checks things out still, but just an explanation to those of you who might have missed the terms.

 

It is easy to become a supporting member. Just click on "Membership" in the menu bar at the top of the page.

 

Thanks

 

 

Thank you! I am now a supporting member and cannot begin to explain how helpful this site has been.

[New to me 2007 royal star venture]

Good morning, about a week ago I purchased a royal star venture with 11k miles in pretty good shape. I have gone through and put new tires on it, change as the oil, final drive oil, fuel filter and spark plugs. Is there anything else I should look into doing since this bike sat for a while? The bike runs great and brought me back from Knoxville tn to clarksville tn without any complaints.

 

Only thing I don't like on the bike so far is the handlebars. I'm a little on the taller side at 6'3" and the bars are far to low and close for my liking. Any good aftermarket bar options?

 

Thanks for any future feedback! I'm glad I found this website.

[Raising Handlebars]

I had the Barons risers for years until my recent Flanders bars update. The risers will work fine but as stated they will hit the ignition cover at full lock. I had the chrome cover and had to go back to the stock cover but it wasnt a big deal for me. The Barons will raise the height to a more comfortable level but the Flanders bars will give you that same height plus they have a more pull back feel. You can get away with the stock cables with the risers although some manipulation of the throttle cable may be necessary. With the Flanders bars you need a 2" longer cable. Im sure you will like the Barons risers.

 

Is there an option that doesn't have more of a pull back? I already feel as if my elbows are at a 90 degree bend.

[Raising Handlebars]

Currently the problem I'm having.