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winder16

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Posts posted by winder16

  1. Make sure the switches on the brakes (both hand and foot) are not sticking. They can cause this type of problem. I'm sure other members may have more suggestions. Good luck.

     

    Thanks Stanman, i will check it out i hope i will not have to tear it down to far.

  2. Mine acts like it does not set, but when I release the throttle, it drops 5 mph then picks back up. This is explained in my thread Cruise Control Delay Part 2. Sorry, I do not know how to link to other threads in a post. Go to "search" at the top menu bar, and put in "cruise control". Read both my threads "part I" and "part II" and see if yours is really acting like mine. All the responses I got on here before involved hitting the "accel" button immediately after hitting the "send". In "part II" I described my symptoms in more detail, and did not get any info that helped. I have not however, pulled the left leg cowling and checked for slack in the cable yet. It is either too cold, or I have to work.

     

    Check it out and let me know if yours is acting the same, or is truly not setting at all..

     

    If it does not set at all, it is a break somewhere in the "cancel" circuit, which loops thru both brake switches, the cancel switch, and a speed sensor switch somewhere. Sorry, I dont' have a wiring diagram. I read it all while researching my problem, brake switches stuck on, shorts at the cancel switch, cancel switch stuck down, etc.

     

    Thanks BUBBA, I will look at this things and read the thread when i get a chance.

  3. I went to Dunlop main web site:

    They list the Elite 3, in MR90-18 Front, and MU90-16 Rear.

     

    I checked several on line dealers, but nobody seems to have the

    new front Elite 3 as yet.

     

    Anybody know if they are available someplace ??

     

    Hi, i not sure why everyone is saying the dont make the E3s i have bought them last summer for the front and rear southwest moto tire has them and american motercycle tire have them i bought both tires for 218.00 that is with shipping included took 4 days to get them a lot cheaper then going to the local bike shop.

    hope this helps.

  4. No you do not have to remove the rear left saddle bag to fill the rear drive. You will find with a 17 mm socket the drain and fill plugs can easily be removed.......I use a short section of flexible clear tubing like you can get at Lowes or somewhere, stick that over the tapered nose of the fill bottle, run the other end down to the fill hole....lay a rag on the floor to catch the overflow and fill her up.

     

    Oh suction pump would not be good.....the drain plug has a magnet imbedded in it.....designed to collect the small filings from the gears.....it always should be removed and cleaned.

     

    Kit

     

    When you fill the oil up do you let it run out of the hole to say it is full or is there a correct amount to put in and does the bike have to be straight up and down or on kick stand ok. thanks for any help:confused24:

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