StarRider07
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Posts posted by StarRider07
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I am done with the clutch. Dumped the old oil, flushed it (for the hell of it) with some inexpensive motorcycle oil, dumped that, then new filter and good oil. Still up on the stand, I fired it up, clutch lever felt great, goes into the gears as smooth as ever. Damn knocking is still there running in gear in idle. I have been told by a few users that this knocking is normal when the bike is in the air, in gear, running idle, with no resistance to the back tire. I got a phone call from Rick who put my mind at ease letting me know that it will sound like it's falling apart when idling in gear.
No noise in first gear, very little in second, very obvious in third and horrible in fourth. Didn't even try fifth in idle. HOWEVER, with throttle (about 3000 RPM) no noise in the first 4 and tried 5th with throttle, still no noise. Well,,,, except the awesome noise (music) coming from my BUBS. hahahah
Greg
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I have installed them on two bikes, and never heard Any type of Noise !!
When you put the pressure plate on, it IS possible to Mis - Position it !!
Did you know that ? Read the Instruction sheet again !!!
HI GeorgeS, Yes I did know that. I mentioned that in my post:
"I put in the pretty purple spring conversion and yes, I put it in correctly. You were all right, there are only 2 positions that it sits flush and yes I torqued all 6 bolts in."
According to many users, when the bike it up on a stand with no resistance to the back tire, there is some knocking (sounds broken) when in gear at idle. No noise in first, however, by the time I put it in third at and let it run in idle,,,OMG!!!! give it some throttle and the noise goes away.
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Do not use a ft/lb torque wrench. Not accurate that low a torque. Should use an in/lb torque wrench at about 76 in/lb. It is possible that you stretched the bolts.
OOOPS!!!! Yes I used an INCH/lb wrench. I purchased one just to do this job because I read that my ft/lb would not be accurate at that small torque. I will edit my post. Thank you.
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I first discovered this when burnishing in a set of brake pads with the bike on the stand
Also when you tightened the bolts did you tighten them in stages in a staggered pattern or did you just run them up tight in circular pattern, one after the other. It is always best to tighten in stages in a staggered pattern. the first course being to just bottom all bolts lightly snug. This helps prevent getting the plate cockeyed.
Yes, when tightening them, I did stagger the pattern. Right down to the last torquing with my in/lb wrench.
Greg
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Give it a few days for the oil to soak into the new friction plates
then come back and tell use how happy your are :-)
(did you soak the new frictions plates)
for the new install I just installed the EFM Auto Clutch with brand new Barnett Friction plate
but I have not had to a chance to try it out yet.
Good luck !
Hey Cougar. Yes, I did soak them overnight actually. However, after putting them in the bike, they sat in there with no oil for about a week because some sh!t came up and couldn't get back to it.
I was so tempted to put in an auto clutch. After you get to ride it for a while, please tell us all how you like it.
Greg
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Were you running it at idle, in gear, on the stand?
My 1st gen clunks like crazy when run in gear on the center stand at idle.
The clunking is the individual power pulses from each time a cylinder fires, and it is racking the backlash in the drive train back and forth.
Try either taking it for a ride or using the rear brake to put some load on the drive line so that the gears don't rattle. Don't get carried away and burn up the rear brakes. Even just running the engine at a higher speed to get away from the resonant frequency of the drive line might help.
WOW, I sure hope that is the answer. Yes the bike is on a stand (bought that stand from a user here, can't remember who though)
Clutch lever pulls in nicely and putting it in gear felt normal. The shifter felt totally normal.
I just don't remember this clunking sound before. Sounded like it was broken. When I get home (can't wait) I will try again by applying the rear brake. Can't take it for a ride because still ice on snow outside. Do you remember that small pressure ring at the very back behind all the plates? I put that in so that the ( faces the clutch cover, not towards the back. In other words, the rounded part is sitting against the read and the raised part is up against the first plate, pointing (if you will) towards the clutch cover.
Like this:
(|||||
hahaha, hows that for a diagram.
Greg
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Here I am again and looking for HELP!!!!
I got my new Barnett clutch friction plates, steel plates and the Barnett spring conversion all it. Bike is up on a stand, started it up, pulled lever in, put it in first, then second, third and then I started hearing some pretty nasty clunking going on.
What the F have I done wrong? I followed the steps.
To alleviate some of the possible replies, this is what I did:
I removed all the old plates, took the wire off that holds the last couple pieces. I put the new smaller friction plate in along with the original ring (spacer - whatever it is), put the wire back in which wasn't really that tough to do, put the small pressure ring in and then put in all the frictions and steels in.
**Note, the Barnett plates DID NOT have any notches or markings of any kind. I read that they didn't therefore no need to worry about lining them up.
I put in the pretty purple spring conversion and yes, I put it in correctly. You were all right, there are only 2 positions that it sits flush and yes I torqued all 6 bolts in.
After I had it all together, I drained the oil and then i only put in 3 liters of oil because I am planning on dumping it right away to flush or (at least dilute) any older oil in there.
I don't thing the clutch would be knocking (clunking) like it was just because I was a liter short of oil. I have not opened it back up again but I swear it sounds like something is broken.
What did I do, or not do? Anyone ever experience this? I pray there is an easy remedy for this.
Greg
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Here I am again and looking for HELP!!!!
I got my new Barnett clutch friction plates, steel plates and the Barnett spring conversion all it. Bike is up on a stand, started it up, pulled lever in, put it in first, then second, third and then I started hearing some pretty nasty clunking going on.
What the F have I done wrong? I followed the steps.
To alleviate some of the possible replies, this is what I did:
I removed all the old plates, took the wire off that holds the last couple pieces. I put the new smaller friction plate in along with the original ring (spacer - whatever it is), put the wire back in which wasn't really that tough to do, put the small pressure ring in and then put in all the frictions and steels in.
**Note, the Barnett plates DID NOT have any notches or markings of any kind. I read that they didn't therefore no need to worry about lining them up.
I put in the pretty purple spring conversion and yes, I put it in correctly. You were all right, there are only 2 positions that it sits flush and yes I torqued all 6 bolts in.
After I had it all together, I drained the oil and then i only put in 3 liters of oil because I am planning on dumping it right away to flush or (at least dilute) any older oil in there.
I don't thing the clutch would be knocking (clunking) like it was just because I was a liter short of oil. I have not opened it back up again but I swear it sounds like something is broken.
What did I do, or not do? Anyone ever experience this? I pray there is an easy remedy for this.
Greg
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I got it all done. Now I can't wait to actually take it for a ride to see if it actually functions properly.
Thanks to EVERYONE that replied.
Greg
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If I am missing something here, I apologize.
I guess I am confused because of the different terms being used.
IS there anyone that has installed the Barnett Clutch Plate Kit, Part# 306-90-20082
I am going to try to be very specific with my questions so I can get the specific answers I need so I can get my new clutch installed.
With all due respect to everyone here, I am asking for help from someone that has installed this kit or a link to someone that has posted full instructions. One link I was given was to replace the clutch basket. Another link was for a 1st Gen:
http://www.venturers.org/Tech_Library/index.php?action=article&cat_id=001006&id=396 which does not mention anything about half disc or odd disc.
Others were installing a new clutch from a different manufacturer which says in the instructions that the Barnett kit "should be" the same. I can't afford to go with "should be"
Again, with all due respect, I appreciate everybody for your help, however you need to understand that I have never done this before so I need to feel comfortable. I am not afraid to do this however I don't want to get in there with a lack of information and lack of understanding.
I DO NOT need to know about the spring conversion. I am pretty sure that part will be easy.
Just so we are on the same page, this is what I really need clarification on.
And just so you know,
1. There were no instructions with the Barnett Clutch Kit.
2. None of the Barnett plates have any notches or marks of any kind. So please don't remind me to line up the notches, there aren't any.
I can only assume at this point that lining up the Barnett frictions/steel plates is not needed/required.
The kit I received is:
Yamaha Clutch Plate Kit- Carbon Fiber
Part# 306-90-20082
Notes:
Includes all frictions and steels.
Consisting of:
Yamaha Clutch Friction Plate Kit- Carbon Fiber
Part# 302-90-20037
Notes: Consists of 8 plates.
Steel Clutch Drive Plate
Part# 401-90-089050
Quantity Required: 7
Notes:
2.3 mm thick
This is what I know:
The OEM setup consists of that (commonly referred as) "half disc" which is held in with a wire.
As you can see in my photo, it shows one of the 8 friction discs being an ODD size.
So, for ease, lets say:
1. "half size" for the OEM
2. "Odd size" for that odd size friction disc from Barnett.
Now:
1. Does that Barnett ODD size friction plate replace the OEM half disc and wire?
If YES,
a. Is there a benefit to that?
b. Will I lose clutch / throttle play for slow maneuvering?
c. Do I need to use that wire with the Barnett odd sized friction plate?
So, if that Barnett odd sized friction plate does replace the half disc, would I be correct in removing the wire then the half disc, storing in a box for "just in case", and then putting that Barnett odd sized friction disc as the very plate installed? DO I need to use that wire with the Barnett odd sized plate.
Sorry to be a pain. Someone here must have done this Barnett Clutch Kit on their 2nd Gen.
Thanks you .
Greg
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Hi Andy, thank you for your reply.
What I really need is to hear from someone that installed the Barnett
Yamaha Clutch Plate Kit- Carbon Fiber
Part# 306-90-20082
Notes:
Includes all frictions and steels.
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Thanks George. I don't have any concerns about replacing the Barnett spring conversion. It's the Barnett clutch plate kit i am confused about. I now seen some instructions thanks to darthandy & Jeff and others. however. my concerns now are about the parts held in by that wire. Do those parts get stored away and replaced with that odd sized plate? And if so, the results of the clutch/throttle play as i asked regarding slow maneuvering.
Greg
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Thanks Andy, not really what I was looking for.
I need the actual details replacing the OEM clutch with the Barnett clutch kit as well.
Two things I just need to be 100% sure about:
As seen in the photo, I have that odd size friction plate. Does that plate replace the parts that come off after removing the wire? really confused with this.
After reading that link, he chose to keep the inner half friction disk because replacing it reduces the friction zone on the clutch handle.
Does this mean if removed I will have less throttle/clutch action for slow maneuvering?
If that is the case, then losing this would be very difficult in slow turns (u-turns) and chance too much grab and could drop the bike.
PLEASE clarify this for me. (God I feel stupid - hahahaha)
If that is the case then I would want to keep the inner half disk.
If I keep that inner disk, is it absolutely necessary to remove it? Seems like a lot of work if just going to put it back in again.
Also, just to be sure, the Barnett plates have no notches. Does that mean there is NO lining up the plates??? I know it is easy to assume there is no lining up required however do to the fact I have never done this before, I don't want to go with an assumption.
If I can get these questions / concerns answered, I can do the upgrade this weekend.
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Background: Insurance agency. Have a server, Dell power edge 830, Two Dell Opti Plex GX620's and one Dell latitude D830 laptop using a replicator. The two desktops and laptop are used as workstations. All put in service in 2006 using windows xp professional. The IT guy we use was in last week to tell us microsoft won't be servicing windows xp. We knew that. He says we will have to buy a new server and workstations and use windows 7 professional. Do you guys agree that we will have to have new computers. I thought we could just change from xp to windows 7. Thanks for your expertise.
First, as of April of this year, unless MS decides to extend it, there will be no more XP security updates available.
Do you need new PC's? Well it depends how old they are. Here is a link for a download to run on those PC's to if they will run Win7 properly.
http://www.microsoft.com/en-ca/download/details.aspx?id=20
Greg
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Hello everyone. After searching for a long time, I can not find a post regarding the installation of the Barnett Clutch kit and the (pretty purple) spring conversion.
So, if this info is in here somewhere, I can't find it. Sorry.
I have a 2007 RSV. I just received my new Barnett Clutch kit and conversion.
Can someone post the instructions (with pictures) on doing this installation? PLEASE.
I just keep coming up with other brands being installed. I found one for the Barnett but on a first gen bike.
I am confused because some say the Barnett plates have notches, others say there are none. Mine does not have any notches or marks of any kind. I am seeing posts that Barnett comes with new bolts, mine did not.
And then there is that wire to remove. I see a post saying to put it back, then I see it can be thrown away.
The kit I got has that odd narrower shape plate. Is that what replaces the stock plate held in by a wire.
ARRRG! I am confused.
It would be so awesome if someone could post instructions from beginning to end. If the total Barnett instructions are in here somewhere for the 2nd Gen, please tell me the link to it.
Thank you so much.
Greg
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Thanks to everyone for their comments, suggestions, phone calls (Thanks Bobby) and support. My warranty ends Sept 2012. If it turns out the new shock doesn't last, I hope it craps out before that.
Greg
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Hey Bobby, I just got a call from Yamaha Canada. I don't know if your call that helped but they are going to replace the shock. What a bunch of scumbags to try getting out of replacing a expensive piece of **** and labor. Guess this says one thing for sure:
Yamaha thinks of their customers as idiots. Problem is, there are a lot of people that don't know their rights and or to timid to say anything. I am sure Yamaha counts on those.
Thank you.
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Tell the dealer to prove it was something you did. Otherwise you have in writing that it is in warranty and will be replaced by warranty or you'll be happy to take the dealer to court. I would NEVER go back to a dealer that didn't stand behind his customers. That dealer is just plain STUPID.
I honestly don't think it is the dealer. I know them and I know they would not do this to me. Actually they are the only 5 star dealer in Alberta last I heard.
After having my bike for the first 3 months, the battery was shot. I took it in and it was covered. I just found out today after the head mechanic, who I know very well told me that Yamaha denied the battery claim. Dealer never told me about it until this shock issue came up. They said they wanted to make sure I was looked after and didn't want to give me the grief of Yama**** denying the claim.
The head mechanic said he argued with Yamaha and they said there is no way I should have to have a second one and that was that. He called me right away and suggested I contact Yamaha Canada customer service. He said for what ever reason, when the customer calls there is better luck. I agree, I don't understand that, however, is it the dealers fault. If they are told no, what can they do? Tell them they will stop selling their product? Who knows. I know if I were the dealer, I would fight tooth and nail for my customer, however, if the final answer is no, then what. I will call customer service tomorrow.
Thanks to everyone so far. I will keep my cool but trust me, they will know I mean business.
By the way, I have to take my rear tire in tomorrow to the dealer. WOW, was it worn out. The dealer gave me FREE TIRES for as long as I own the bike, my choice in brand as long as there is at least 7000kms on them. So I took the tire off the bike tonight and they will charge me $20 to change the tire. Not too shabby i'd say.
Also, just so you understand that I trust my dealer, I was there one day to pick up some oil and a filter. I was going to go home to do my oil change. He said to bring it around back into the garage. They did the change for me for free. They didn't have to do that.
So far, this dealer has never screwed me around. If they ever do, I play a very mean game.
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I am so p!$$ed off. I have a 07 RSV. At 11,000 km's (6800 miles) I had to get the rear shock changed because it started to leak. Still under warranty and at 34,000km (21,000 miles) it is shot again. Dealer contacted Yamaha for a replacement and they were told no way, not going to happen. Yamaha Canada told dealer that it is my fault that there is no way I should need another shock and if it is leaking, it is something I am doing.
Dealer said Yamaha told him maybe I run tires underinflated. Well I don't, I always check my air pressure and besides, even if that were true, I don't think that would ruin a shock.
So in other words, what Yamaha is saying is, it is impossible that they replaced the first shock with a possible defective one.
Now, I know you only have my word on this..... I am 190lbs and rarely, my wife will ride on the back. She is 110lbs. I do not travel on rough roads and don't abuse my bike.
The shock is over $600.00 plus labor to install it. How can a company offer a 5 year warranty if they can so easily get out of it?
I am calling Yamaha Canada customer service tomorrow. Does anyone have any suggestions on what to say, what to do about this, where I can turn to for help. There is no way I am going to bite the bullet for this. You can't tell me that they can say with 100% certainty that the replacement shock they put in was 100% perfect.
HELP, please with your suggestions, comments. Help me arm myself for the attack on Yamaha Canada tomorrow.
Thank you.
Greg
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I went to the 130 and must say, I love it. I honestly don't know what you mean about the squirrely feeling. I have read about this here and had me a bit concerned about changing tire size, but did it anyway. Slow speed turning has improved for the better. I have speeds upwards of 100+ MPG, no problems. I have passed large trucks at 80+MPG.
I will take cloverleaf curves at a good speed and out of all these situations to test if I like the smaller tire, I have never felt anything but good.
I don't know if I am just lucky not to feel that squirrely feeling or if I am too stupid to feel it, but for now, I am really enjoying my ride more than ever.
Did I mention that I get free tires for life? Any brand I choose.
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Question for those of you out there that have installed the Stebel Air Horn.
Got mine installed today, and its a pretty tight fit.
The upper left edge of the plastic "chrome" is practically touching the exhaust pipe.
I realize this is the shiny cover and not the actual pipe, but it does get hot.
Was wondering if any of you have had trouble with the plastic chrome melting?
Also, in case you were wondering... the "SuperChrome" version of the Stebel is actually just shinier chromed plastic. Looks nice, but still not really chrome. Not exactly what I'd expect for $140. Thought I'd throw that out there for the benefit of others...
Thanks in advance for your thoughts on the pipes/horn cover.
Bob
Have had mine on since 07 and no damage yet. The only problem I had with mine was the contacts coming off and very little space to put back on. Since I didn't want to be without a horn when needed, I soldered the d@mn things on.
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You should be able to read this without hesitation.
Can you raed tihs? Olny 55 plepoe out of 100 can.
i cdnuolt blveiee taht I cluod aulaclty uesdnatnrd waht I was rdanieg. The phaonmneal pweor of the hmuan mnid, aoccdrnig to a rscheearch at Cmabrigde Uinervtisy, it dseno't mtaetr in waht oerdr the ltteres in a wrod are, the olny iproamtnt tihng is taht the frsit and lsat ltteer be in the rghit pclae. The rset can be a taotl mses and you can sitll raed it whotuit a pboerlm. Tihs is bcuseae the huamn mnid deos not raed ervey lteter by istlef, but the wrod as a wlohe. Azanmig huh? yaeh and I awlyas tghuhot slpeling was ipmorantt! if you can raed tihs forwrad it.
If you can read this, your brain is 50% faster than those who can't
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How do you measure the total weight of your trailer?
We have a farm store in town which has a scale for vehicles but that is a PIA and you have to get it there first.
I have a bathroom scale which I could use under one wheel at a time, but that doesn't tell me the total weight.
I've pulled a trailer for years and just winged it by estimating around 20-25 pounds on the toung. Never had a problem, but would like some peace of mind by knowing the true weight of my trailer when loaded.
I have pulled into weigh stations on the highway to use the scale. Never had a problem and the guys have always been good about it.
I first discovered this when burnishing in a set of brake pads with the bike on the stand
for the new install 
If I am missing something here, I apologize. 
New Barnett Clutch and Spring Conversion is Knocking (Clunking)
in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
Posted
I wish I could. We still have snow. Been melting the last couple days so very wet and still a lot of sand on the roads. My driveway and street out front is still snow/ice covered.
I HATE WINTER!!!!