Toeman
-
Posts
44 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Events
Store
Posts posted by Toeman
-
-
Do you notice any gas dripping on the ground while idling. Not sure if this is a common symptom on 2nd Gens but on !st gens this is usually indicates a needle and seat stuck open causing the float bowl to overfill and come out the overflow tubes and leak onto the ground. Usually only leaks at idle because at high rpms the engine uses up the surplus gas. The carbs do not actually have a choke they have an enrichment valve one for each carb if one of these sticks open it will enrich or even flood your engine. The plunger is accessible form out side the carb and you can check it for freedom of movement with your finger without removing the carb. A misfiring cylinder is another possibility but usually you will feel it missing. you can also check exhaust pipes for a cold or cooller one (best done when 1st starting the bike and then montering the pipe temps
thank you, I will check this out
-
Have you noticed a loss of power? I've had problems twice with second gens where a coil went bad resulting in it running on only 3 cylinders. Runs surprisingly smooth, just some loss of horse power, worse gas mileage and gas smell.
Sent from my SM-G975U1 using Tapatalk
Thank you, I will check on this, I assume I will have one exhaust pipe that stays cold.
-
I have a 2008 rsv purchased last year with 20K miles on it. I pulled the carbs and
cleaned all parts including jets,ect. The carbs were synced and the bike has run great since then.
last week, went in a several hour ride and noticed I could smell gas while riding. I can not see gas leaking anywhere,
but can smell gas on the left side of the bike. Bike seems to run ok but in checking gas mileage I am getting mid to high 30’s instead of mid 40’s that I usually see.
I would appreciate any advice you can give me.
thank you,
-
Here are the instructions I use:
To remove the rear shock on the RSV:
1. Remove the Passenger Floorboards
2. Remove the Side Covers
3. Remove the Plastic Covers
a. Just to the rear of the Side Cover
b. The Passenger Floorboards bolt through these covers.
4. Remove the Rubber Ring from the Shock Air Adjustment Valve
5. Remove the nut from the Shock Air Adjustment Valve
a. Push Shock Air Adjustment Valve out of position.
6. Loosen the nuts on the Shock Mounting Bolts
a. You will need a socket extension and swivel to do this step.
7. Lift the bike with a motorcycle jack and a lift bracket like the one sold by Carbon One.
a. Be sure to strap the motorcycle to the jack.
b. Rear wheel should just be off the ground about ¼”
8. If your RSV has a vent hose, coming off of the rubber flex, boot un-clip it from the frame.
a. This hose will come off of the back of the shock and will be clipped to the rear and above the shock with a plastic clip.
b. Note where it is attached to the frame.
9. Remove the nuts from the Shock Mounting Bolts.
10. Remove the Top Shock Mounting Bolt.
a. You may have to “bounce” the rear tire to relieve pressure on the bolt.
11. Remove the Bottom Shock Mounting Bolt.
a. At this point the shock will be detached from the bike and can be removed.
To re-install follow the instructions in reverse keeping in mind the following:
1. Inspect the new shock to ensure that the top and bottom mounting holes are parallel.
a. If not, you will have problems lining up the top holes.
2. The Air Adjustment Hose and Flex Boot Vent Hose are installed toward the rear of the motorcycle.
a. Thread them towards where they belong after installing the Bottom Shock Mounting Bolt.
3. After installing the Bottom Mounting Bolt use a line-up punch to line up the top bolt hole.
a. I found this is easiest to do from the left side.
b. “Bounce” the rear tire or use the jack to assist in lining up the top bolt hole.
4. Install the top bolt from the right side using a socket, swivel and extension.
a. This may require some patience, if the line-up punch is effective this job will be easier.
Good Luck!
i am not familiar with what a “line up punch” is?
-
Here are the instructions I use:
To remove the rear shock on the RSV:
1. Remove the Passenger Floorboards
2. Remove the Side Covers
3. Remove the Plastic Covers
a. Just to the rear of the Side Cover
b. The Passenger Floorboards bolt through these covers.
4. Remove the Rubber Ring from the Shock Air Adjustment Valve
5. Remove the nut from the Shock Air Adjustment Valve
a. Push Shock Air Adjustment Valve out of position.
6. Loosen the nuts on the Shock Mounting Bolts
a. You will need a socket extension and swivel to do this step.
7. Lift the bike with a motorcycle jack and a lift bracket like the one sold by Carbon One.
a. Be sure to strap the motorcycle to the jack.
b. Rear wheel should just be off the ground about ¼”
8. If your RSV has a vent hose, coming off of the rubber flex, boot un-clip it from the frame.
a. This hose will come off of the back of the shock and will be clipped to the rear and above the shock with a plastic clip.
b. Note where it is attached to the frame.
9. Remove the nuts from the Shock Mounting Bolts.
10. Remove the Top Shock Mounting Bolt.
a. You may have to “bounce” the rear tire to relieve pressure on the bolt.
11. Remove the Bottom Shock Mounting Bolt.
a. At this point the shock will be detached from the bike and can be removed.
To re-install follow the instructions in reverse keeping in mind the following:
1. Inspect the new shock to ensure that the top and bottom mounting holes are parallel.
a. If not, you will have problems lining up the top holes.
2. The Air Adjustment Hose and Flex Boot Vent Hose are installed toward the rear of the motorcycle.
a. Thread them towards where they belong after installing the Bottom Shock Mounting Bolt.
3. After installing the Bottom Mounting Bolt use a line-up punch to line up the top bolt hole.
a. I found this is easiest to do from the left side.
b. “Bounce” the rear tire or use the jack to assist in lining up the top bolt hole.
4. Install the top bolt from the right side using a socket, swivel and extension.
a. This may require some patience, if the line-up punch is effective this job will be easier.
Good Luck!
thanks very much
-
Ok, your bike is on a lift. Is your swingarm free to move up and down? That is what you need is a little up-down movement on the swingarm. SAFELY jack up the back end of the bike, while on the lift, another inch or so to give you the clearance you need. Do you have a drop out plate on your lift for the rear wheel? Same thing. Grease all the joints while you are there by the way.
Page 7-66 of the service manual avail on here will help you out.
thank you
-
i recently had my rear shock fluid and O ring replace and am having significant difficulty re-installing the unit. Does anyone know the correct procedure to do this? i have the rsv on a lift and have tried to install the bottom bolt first and have been able to get it partially in on the right side but cant line it up so it will exit the left shock mount.
I would really appreciate some guidsnce from someone who has done this before.
thank youi
-
If I got it correctly, it's an indication that the shock needs a rebuild or replacement soon. Do a search, there is a thread on how to rebuild.
Thank you
-
I thought I read a post somewhere that mentions that a squeaky rear shock is pretty common on a gen 2 RSV. The post said that its possible to lubricate the shock boot and that this will get rid of the squeak. My question is just how you do that? I have looked underneath the bike where the shock is visible but cant figure out where to put the lubrication. I would assume that in order to be effective it would have to go between two moving surfaces. I would appreciate your thoughts.
Thank you,
Bruce
-
Chrome Glow makes a really cool LED replacement unit that comes in both a 3 prong and 2 prong version. the LED array is white for normal operation, but when you put the turn signals on it changes to amber and does a cool circular thing when first turned on. They are designed to fit exactly in the housing...
sounds like this is what I am looking for.
Thank you
-
Nobody but Yamaha makes that goofy 3 pin bulb, I think you can use a standard 1157 and grind off one pin (I do not remember which one) and it will work. There are some threads somewhere about how to do it. the same would apply to the LED bulb.
Kind of funny though as the bulb says "Stanley" on it.
-
Nobody but Yamaha makes that goofy 3 pin bulb, I think you can use a standard 1157 and grind off one pin (I do not remember which one) and it will work. There are some threads somewhere about how to do it. the same would apply to the LED bulb.
that helps a bunch, thank you
-
Check these ones out. If nothing else they may be able to refer you to someone local.
https://www.macraesbluebook.com/search/product_company_list.cfm?prod_code=1659300®ion=Idaho-ID
That helps, thank you
-
You'd have to do a search online for "plastic chrome" or "plastic chroming" to find someone in your area.
ok, thank you
-
I am trying to find a source for a led bulb for the front turn signal/driving light. I was able to find a replacement for the rear turn signals at "Supebrite LED's but they apparently don't have a bulb that works for the front. the stock bulb has 3 pins and 2 electrical points contact points. I have also tried auto part stores but no luck.
Has anyone done this successfully?
Thank you
-
I had the plastic air intakes on a 2nd gen chromed for a member. Turned out great.
do you know where i can get this done?
-
Toeman
That is a very clean bike for sure.
Thank you
-
Here is a thread from the tech section that shows you how to mod the OEM flasher to work with LEDs. If you replace the flasher with an after market unit designed for LEDs you may loose the self cancel feature on the turn signals.
https://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?128835-LED-Turn-Signal-Mod
The other option is to install load resistors to fool the flasher into thinking the OEM bulbs are installed.
Thanks Steve
-
Yeah what Steve said on the flashers. The chrome air filters are out there but at double or triple the cost. As for the chrome switch cover IMHO you can do without it. It will blind you when you don't expect it. I had one on mine for a very short time.
thanks for the advice
-
Is it just me or is the Kawasaki just an ugly copy of the Ventures? What about the inline four cylinders vs the Venture V4??
https://www.venturerider.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=113938
https://www.venturerider.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=113939
In 2015 I bought a 2002 Kawasaki Voyager VII and did a ground up restoration on it. I stripped it to the frame and rebuilt and replaced virtually every part on the bike. I now have around 8K into it and I love the bike. I took it to a Voyager rally in Wisconsin 2 years ago and to Glacier national park last summer. It is amazingly smooth and handles exceptionally well. As mentioned in one of the posts there is some gear whine but since I wear an ear plug, I don't really notice it. Another plus is since it was built from 1986 until 2003 there are a huge number of used parts available. Interestingly enough you can still buy many new oem parts as well.
In July I bought an 08 RSV and now that I have worked out most of the issues caused by neglect I also love the Venture as well. While the Voyager is as smooth as butter I really like being able to hear the V4 on the Venture. The sound is even better since I put Road King pipes on it.
Both bikes are great and fun to ride.
-
I decided to replace my front and rear turn signal bulbs with led's and now they hyper flash. I actually expected it because the same thing happened on my 02 Kawasaki Voyager when I added led's. On my Voyager the fix was to put in a different turn signal relay. Does anyone know if this will work for the gen 2 RSV? If so where is the relay located?
Also I have been looking for a chrome ignition bezel and chrome air cleaner covers. So far haven't had any luck.
thank you for the help.
-
Thanks to everyone for your excellent suggestions, glad to hear it's probably not the swing arm
Also, what is the best way to get the RSV up and supported so the tires can be replaced? Since there is no center stand I have wondered about the best way to do this. A cycle lift?
Thank you,
-
Well I have worked out most of the issues with my new 08 RSV. My acceleration, cruise control and 5th gear issues all went away after I pulled the carbs and cleaned out all the jets and adjusted the mixture screws.
I am concerned about the noises coming from the rear suspension. I only notice them when I first get on the bike and sit on it and bounce it up and down a little. I have read on other forum posts that it might be due to the swing arm bearings needing to be re-packed. I hope not as that looks to be a real labor intensive repair.
i would certainly appreciate anyone's thoughts. Bike has 18K miles.
-
The CB antenna should absolutely have the load coil. Look at part number 35.
thanks so much. Makes me wonder if the antenna I have on the left side of the bike is actually a cb antenna. Does the radio antenna have a loading coil? Shouldn't the cb antenna collapse as well?
Gas smell when riding
in Watering Hole
Posted
Thats a good idea I will check the plunger for freedom of movement