7 lakes
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Posts posted by 7 lakes
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One of the reasons that those Philips are always stripping is that they're not Philips head screws. They're JIS, Japanese Industrial Standard.
What I've read is that the Philips head was designed for Henry Ford, it sped up the assembly line because the Philips is designed to cam out when the proper torque is reached without buggering up the head of the screw and leaving sharp edges that caught on skin and clothing. Before the days of precise driver clutches and electronic torque wrenches this allowed fast assembly without leaving damage behind.
The JIS tips are cut straight, not curved like a Philips, they are designed to lock in and not cam out, for this reason JIS drivers are even better with Philips screws than a Philips driver. Get yourself a set of Vessel JIS drivers and you'll wonder where they've been all your life. I don't know how many times I've removed carb and case cover screws that someone stripped with a Philips driver, by doing nothing more than using the right screwdriver. Here's a youtube (not mine) video that does a good job explaining it.
Amazon has sets and individual drivers, and you can get them other places on the web. Vessel makes an impact driver that looks and is sized like a regular driver, too, not 3 pounds of awkward fat stubby steel. If you work on Japanese bikes you need these, they will pay for themselves in money saved replacing fasteners. (see there, gave ya somethin' to tell the missus ...)
Tim
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Take this for what it is, an opinion based on past experience. This is not from experience with die cast cars but with the Franklin Mint in general.
The Franklin Mint is known for saturating the market with their "Collections". Some which are actually pretty good quality. The problem is they charge a premium initially and then after a few months(or years) flood the market with discounted sales. Thus, rendering the "Collection" valueless.
This is not to say your brother's collection has no value, it's just doubtful it will realize any gain in value from it's initial cost. I'm quite sure there are very desirable collectible die cast models out there, quite possibly some in your brother's collection. They're probably not going to be any of the Franklin Mint pieces.
I'd contact a local auction house and ask if they have a go to toy or die cast collectible expert on call for evaluation.
Yep, what he said. I've dealt some in collectables and luvmy40 is right on, find an auction house with toy experience. And remember that it's not an appraisal unless a licensed appraiser does it, otherwise it's a guess. A good one maybe, but still a guess. If you're looking to maximize the value of the collection you need an actual appraisal, which is the only thing a serious collector will pay attention to. As a certified appraiser I'm a little biased of course ...
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I have a real nice one available, PM me.
Tim
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The problem with using lubes other than tire lube is that tire lube will dry up and stop being slippery once its job is done. Other lubes may stay slippery for a much longer time and allow the tire to slip on the rim during hard acceleration or breaking. Then you wonder why the tire is suddenly out of balance.
Yeah, what he said. Definitely tire lube is the way to go. Also, residue from dishwashing detergent and other mild solvents encourages corrosion of aluminum over time, so not a good idea to use for anything without rinsing thoroughly, which you can't do inside your tire. I use Tru-Flate; ( https://www.amazon.com/Plews-Edelmann-Tru-Flate-12-095-Concentrated/dp/B000CIUOMY ) its a tub of gel that for demounting you mix a glob with water to make a super slick mixture you swab on after breaking the bead, and for mounting, you dip a couple of fingers in the sticky goo and smear it on the bead and the rim like a thin coating of grease. Tire goes on slick and easy and no moisture inside the tire to interfere with balancing beads. It also contains a corrosion inhibitor. Best stuff I've ever used.
I always clean the rim well, mount and seat the tire, then break the bead and pour in the beads. Then, the tire is so slick still that a little air and the bead pops right back into place without any effort and you're ready to bolt it on. By the time you've buttoned the bike up the lube will be dry enough that you don't need to worry about slippage.
Tim
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I recommend the braces that CarbonOne (Larry) makes as well. If you have highway pegs without the braces you'll notice a fair bit of movement in the engine guards. Install the braces and they stiffen up. Better protection for all the bits since the engine guards won't bend then.
On the cowlings/plastic....as mentioned you can use ABS glue to put it back together. I tried it once but found that the ABS glue dried out over time and didn't hold. There is a "plastic weld" you can use that basically melts the pieces back together.
Here is what was used on my lower cowling to repair the mount where the screw goes in. Still holding together after a couple years. After the ABS glue dried it came apart and a member used Plastex to repair it. http://www.plastex.net/
+1 on the Plastex, good stuff. I've fixed fairing cracks from the rear without repainting and left just a hairline in the paint that you had to look hard to see. It's a real repair, you're not just gluing it together.
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Both those monstrosities are just a waste of Yamaha parts, in my opinion. Yechh.
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Left hand drill bit. Usually firm pressure and a jerky trigger on the drill, and the bit will catch and unscrew it. Works better than an easy out most of the time.
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I still have a nice one if anyone wants it before I blast it, paint it, and put it on ebay.
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Steamer is right, you need to service the internals, a caliper and master rebuild are both indicated here. The only way that you can bottom out the lever like that is if the master is bypassing internally, meaning that it is on borrowed time.
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I'm sure lots of people think "Their Oil is Best" ask 100 people & you'll likely get 75 answers as to what oil is "best".
It's far too wide a subject & way to subjective to come out with a "best" oil. Every manufacturer makes superlative claims about their oil.
There is no "best" oil. Whatever you use is "best" for you, that's why you use it!
I disagree. You'd get at least 101 answers.
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Brakes dont just suddenly need to be bled, you need to service the internals, rebuild the caliper and either rebuild or replace the master cylinder. You told us in your first post that the system had failed, bleeding wont fix whatever caused that.
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Was he referring to horse riding or bike riding? My doc only told me take it easy for a few days to make sure that there was no hidden bleeding at the entry site.
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Those are nice bikes, strong engines and a well balanced package. Because of the cruiser seating position, which tends to put more pressure on the tailbone than the standard version of those bikes, the seats had better and more foam and weren't too bad. I would expect that this old man would need to get off and stretch my legs before the seat drove me off.
Hope you have many happy miles on it!
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You can also use clear plastic from blister packs, from about anything you buy nowadays.
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I like to say that I knew I was marrying Miss Right, I just didn't know her first name was Always.
Just kidding hon ...
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Glad to hear you caught it, I can relate. I went for a treadmill test and left with a double bypass. I was literally 30 seconds into the test when they made me lie down, started calling doctors and wouldn't let me go home, checked me in and I had the surgery 2 days later. I really lucked out, had blocked arteries but no heart damage and now after changing what I eat I'm fine and dont even need meds. Doc said it was a congenital issue and they had been partially blocked since I was a kid.
And I second the advice about the angiogram, they aren't exactly fun but they really aren't a big deal. The worst thing is having to lie flat on your back for a while afterward, but still way less annoying than a heart attack.
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Mark's response to what happened: They were snug just to get in. I replaced the seals (didn't see any damage) and the surfaces were very good and clean so it wasn't any fault there. I just greased the seals and then the base of the piston. I then used the palm of my hand to roll the piston while applying pressure (I've done quite a few so I know whats right) and they went in nicely (took about ten minutes) Then gave them a bit of a clean (nothing mega but nice).
And that's all he said; but I can tell you they were pretty tight!
Cool, glad you got them all squared away.
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Hey Doug, I'd love to hear what Brakecrafters has to say about why that one piston was so hard to get in.
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I would read those codes as "Replace me"
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I ran them on my VR13 and had a miserable time with them. Break in took for every, they didn't ware fast but at high speeds none of us trusted them. When I switched to Metz the ride and feel was much more fun and comforting.
Hmm. I've run Shinkos for years, never had any complaints. Why would you not trust them at high speeds?
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Condor and Sailor, I'll be thinking good thoughts for you both. I had a double bypass in 2009, a stint a year later and a total of four angioplasties, dont recommend it for the entertainment value but now I feel great and don't worry about my heart. PM me if you want to talk to someone who's been through that wringer.
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I had a double bypass in 2009 and a stint a year later, and a total of four angioplasties. Not something I'd recommend for the entertainment value but you sure feel better when it's over. I now feel great and don't worry about my heart. I'll be thinking good thoughts for you, PM me if you want to talk to someone who's been through that wringer.
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Be real careful if you use a pick not to damage the seal. I've used feeler gauges to shoehorn stubborn seals, kind of like using a tire bar to mount a tire, put the feeler gauge between the seal and the caliper, apply pressure on the caliper while circling it with the feeler gauge and work the seal around the piston. Same motion as cleaning fork seals. Just don't damage the seal. If you decide to try this , take the sharp corners off the edges off the gauge with 400 grit paper.
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Try as I might I can't get the cups by the seal. Yes I have RRG on the seals and cups. I have rebuilt the brakes in the 83s, 84s, and 85s and never had this problem.
Doug, are you sure the groove the seal sits in is absolutely clean? The seals are a very tight fit because they're not just seals, they stretch when the brake is applied and draw the piston back when it's released, they are the most highly functioning component in the system and are tight. Any crud or corrosion in the seal groove can take up what little clearance they have.
Dad passed
in Watering Hole
Posted
I'm so sorry for your loss. My Dad passed a few years ago and I think of him every day.