[Contest - new venturerider cap]

What a great idea and a nice prize too boot!

 

Gary Hedberg

1990 XVZ-1300D

Corona de Tucson, AZ, 85641, USA

[Greasing rear wheel pins and splines]

I use moly grease from these guys.

 

http://www.guarddogmoly.com/

 

I was given the tip from my friends who are into Honda Valkyrie's and are dedicated to the restoration and preservation of those bikes. It seems Valks are really tough on rear drives. High horsepower and age contribute I'm sure.

 

Try the GD 570 (73% Moly) from Guard dog.

It is expensive. It is also hard to clean off of just about anything. However, it works. The Honda guys swear by it. I've had good luck with it.

 

A few tips I have been taught.

Clean the spline well before lubing them. Moly doesn't stick to grease well.

Rub the Moly "into" the metal. Kind of like polishing it.

Cleanliness is the key. Make darn sure that tire and wheel are free of sand etc. Use compressed air and clean the areas as well as possible.

 

Just FYI, GuardDogMoly went out of business in 2016.

-Green Beenie

[1st Gen LED Headlight]

That's interesting. I got these "Dazzlers" and installed one in my 1993 tonight. It gives me a headlight out warning but Low/High selection is fine, so I 'spose the RLU won't need to be jumpered for me. It says they consume 30W each. I was wondering exactly how high the amp draw needs to be to act like incandescent H4s. Low beam on some is 45W. Dirty contacts would raise resistance and drop current without causing full failure, or would dirty contacts act like a dielectric? So 45W is 3.75 amps and 30W is 2.5 amps and the difference is 1.25 amps. It's too late now but I don't understand why the current threshold wasn't just an amp. What failure mode (dirty contacts?) did Yamaha hope to detect with a higher cut-off?

 

BTW, these things seem too bright really. I know I'm going to get some reactions from other drivers.

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MRV4MGS/ref=ask_ql_qh_dp_hza

 

 

Did you have any problems with the length of the length fit? Some LED bulbs are too long to fit properly with the cooling fan attached to the ass end of them. Is your bike a 1993 Venture Royale, or a 1993 Venture Royal Star?

 

Also the picture on Amazon doesn't show the connector. What is that 'blue box' to the right of the bulb picture that says I3 Turbo LED, Power 30W EMC?

 

[How do you "Jumper the CMU" for LED's bulbs to prevent the warning light coming on ?]

I think attached pictures are what you want. These pictures are of an 86-93 CMU, 83-85 CMU's are different. See post #12 below for the 83-85 version.

 

The 'probe' suggestion earlier is for the battery warning indicator.

 

Soldering the jumpers shown will eliminate CMU from warning for the high & low beam. Other pictures show jumper positions for brake & tail lights.

 

Gary

Here is how I jumpered my 1990 XVZ1300DA CMU

 

This is how I plan to Jumper the RLU Molex:

 

I've seen several different versions of how to jumper the RLU and I think each one of them is different because all contributors have different year/model of Venture Royal. Mine is a 1990 XVZ1300DA.

[Clutch bolt torque for an '87 VR]

I have a 1990 Venture Royale. Replacing the clutch plates with new Barnett parts and installing a Barnett Conversion Clutch Spring Kit (511-90-10002). I have a digital copy of the service manual but simple things like how much torque to tighten the clutch bolts to is near impossible to find. Should I tighten them to 5.8 ft/lbs like for the 1987 VR?

 

Never replaced a clutch before so this should be an adventure. Oil drained, side cover off. Just waiting for some feedback. The YouTube videos don't show a 1990 Venture Royale.