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MattK

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Posts posted by MattK

  1. MattK I will apologize first off by giving you the wrong part number for the flasher unit, I will also state when you use this flasher you should not need any resistors. I sound aggravated in the video is because I had to make the silly thing 4 times before my camera would aim right... and focus like I wanted it to.

     

     

     

    This is the wire ground I have running I have no Resistors

    The Wire that originally ran over to the cancelling unit from the OEM Flasher

    is Yellow with a green stripe. The B is for battery and the L is for Lights and the C is for Cancelling unit

     

    http://www.venturerider.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=109124

    http://www.venturerider.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=109120.

     

    This is how the EP34 Flasher,

    http://www.venturerider.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=109121

     

    This is My ground Wire I have running for both flashers, I think i should loctite this guys because it has came loose twice on me.

    http://www.venturerider.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=109122

     

    Cancelling unit Location I did nothing here just showing where it is

    It is located behind the Right hand Fairing on the inner plastic piece that runs around the Neck.

    http://www.venturerider.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=109123

    Are you pretty sure the #34 flasher would be the problem? I bought and installed the EP(?)36 and it didn't work. I'm not sure on the letters, but the number 36 is right. Could that be all it is?

  2. This is a screenshot of my SBLED order. The tail/brake works fine once I jumped the CMU, but not the turns. Thanks again for helping. Superbrightorder.jpg

     

    Specifically which bulbs did you get? SB has many to chose from. I helped one person chase a turn signal issue and it turned out that it was the specific LED bulbs were not compatible with a 1st gen. Now this was on a MK2 and the 83 is different so I am not sure if the same issues will apply.

    But the problem was that the bright and dim parts of the LED were internally connected so the running light circuit was energizing the flasher side of the bulb causing a steady on condition. I did find a fix but I will need to find that old thread with my notes.

    I can also do some tests to see if you can check your bulbs for the same issue. I have both good and bad bulbs laying around here somewhere.

  3. Oh I know, I wasn't really being serious. I'm just frustrated with this thing.

     

    I am not sure where you cut wires, But I will pull the right fairing off of my bike. I need to know two things, One have you tried to go completely LED. I will try to reconstruct all the issues I ran into and I will do my darndest in detail to show what I have done. I fought with this Led thing for 3 months. I never gave up I just walked away from it and continued to study things. So in a way my fault for not making a clearer write up of what I actually did. I should have wrote it down in my tablets and then posted it to here once I got it all done. So give me a week and hopefully I can help you figure it out. This in no way was a trick, The 83 Venture was a Unicorn, Kind of the Alpha version of the bikes, then 84-85 was the beta, and of course 86-93 was the final release of them... Till they rebuilt something that was fine all along, Sorry 2nd Gens I cant tell you guys from Harleys half the time...:Avatars_Gee_George:
  4. Well I don't know if this is just a joke you all play on the new guy, but I think I have officially given up. I went and spent about $30 (more) on wire, connectors, and the flasher, on top of the $40 or so I already spent at SuperbrightLEDS.com for the turn signal portion. Hooked it all up, and??? Nothing. Not. A. Damned. Thing. No blink, just solid, like it was before I cut my wiring all to hell. Ran a ground to the wire that was formerly connected to the canceler, tried to ground it in several locations, to no avail. At this point, I think I'm done.

     

    Buh.

  5. By God I think I understand what you mean!! Now if I can just figure out how to get my giant hands down to where the flasher is to get it out...

     

    OK your stock flasher if you flip it upside down and look on it, it has B+, L, C. Take note of where C would plug in on your connector, This is the one that runs to the Cancelling unit. I had to change it to ground, Because the regular normal flasher have either 2 prongs or 3 prongs, the one I gave you the part number to has 3 prongs. You will see B+ L and G - I can not remember exactly how it is as its undereath my fairing so I am going off of memory, so basically you have to create a ground for the new flasher as the cancelling unit will not work as a ground.....
  6. I'm still a little confused about how to bypass the flasher. What do you mean, you took the plug side and ran a ground wire to it?

     

    You have to also create an element between the ground wire and the turn signal wire, Crossing them with the resistor... If you give up on that then get an ep36 flasher from autozone or oreily. The side of your stock flasher that says C is the wire going to your counselor, What I did here is cut the wire 2-3 inches from the plug. took the plug side and ran a ground wire to it no not have the stock flasher plugged in. Plug in the EP 36 flasher and you will not need the resistors... this in turn takes away your cancelling unit. Basically all mine is reversible essentially. As I was just running a test on this. I just haven't went back to stock.
  7. I did change out the dash lights too, and had no problem with that. The only one I left alone is the "headlamp" one, because it was way too bright. Apparently it has a little bit of power to it all the time, and you don't really see it with an incandescent, but the LED is super bright. I did try both resistors on one side thinking if that fixed it, I would just order two more, but it didn't really make a difference. I'm sort of at a loss here.

     

    Do you have Four resistors and if you replaced the dash lights do you have a resistor up there too? I am glad to know I am not the only one that has this issue with the 83 circuitry. But they will blink very slowly with all 4 resistors...
  8. I'm using these:

    https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/flashers-load-resistors/led-light-load-resistor-kit-led-turn-signal-hyper-flash-warning-fix/190/831/

     

    they are 50w 6 ohm from Super Bright. I'll dig ou tmy meter and test them, but it seems unlikely that they would both be brand new and bad, doesn't it?

     

    Sounds like your resistors are not "resisting"...or should I say they are resisting to resist? :banana:

     

    All joking aside, it sounds like you might have defective resistors or not the right ones to create the correct electrical "draw" to simulate the energy consumption that a regular bulb has to make your flasher work. I suggest that you test the resistors first to confirm they are working and giving the correct Ohm value they are supposed to be. Here is a quick video to show how to test a resistor with your multimeter:

     

    I recently used 50w 6 Ohm resistors on a car to make the flasher work with signal LED bulbs.....what resistor are you currently using for your Venture conversion?

  9. So I followed some threads here, got some bright (get it?) ideas there. Went and dropped $100 at Superbrightleds.com and got the resistors that were recommended in the thread about how to do this. Got it all hooked up and no matter what I do, those super bright LEDS just come on and stay on. Do I just need a new flasher? They work fine with the old bulbs, but just stay on....mocking me...laughing at my every turn...trying to undermine me. Yesterday I think I saw one of those S.O.B. resistors in a restaurant with MY WIFE at the outskirts of town! What can I do??

  10. Sounds like the bike has not been ridden for a while so there could likely be some crud in the carbs that still needs to be worked out. Due to ethanol the carbs can get crudded up even when used regularly. Seafoam is good at cleaning that up. Every 3 months I like to put about 1/3 of a can in a half tank of gas, go for a short spin to get the treatment into the carbs then park it overnight. Then run it normally until it gets to the reserve. The combination of sitting/soaking and running seems to optimize the cleaning properties. Letting the treated gas work through the choke/enricher system is also a good idea so keeping it on longer than normal should keep that cleaned out as well.

     

     

    I just bought it a few weeks ago from a local shop. I don't know anything about the history of it, so it very well could have been sitting for a while. It fires right up and runs like a raped ape, tires are in so-so condition (new ones going in on Wednesday), oil was pretty clean when I changed it, etc. I did run a half a can of Seafoam in the gas that was in it because I didn't know how old it was. Ran it almost empty and filled it up, with the rest of the can of Seafoam. Maybe it is just working out the gunk. It really only seemed to do it that once, and then not again that I noticed.

     

    --Matt

  11. So I finally waited long enough and paid all the money enough to be legal to ride my bike here in Oregon! Took her out for a real nice ride through the country back roads yesterday, and I have a few questions: First, does everyone use the clutch? I am a truck driver and we never really use the clutch except to start out, and the only other bike I have had, I rode the same way - match RPM and slip it from gear to gear. Question is, does this hurt anything to do this? Second, I was on a straight stretch at about 45 mph, cranked the throttle and it got about twice as loud and took off like a bat out of hell. It was like in the old days when I had a four barrel carb in a car and stomped on it. Does this bike (83 VR TDK) usually run on two carbs and open up all four on demand?

     

    --Matt

  12. I'm sort of embarrassed to admit this, but I just realized that this bike ('83 VR) has a fuel petcock. Do I need to be shutting off the fuel every time? Looks like it hasn't been moved in a while. I found it, but the twist part on the front is smashed a bit, and I can't turn it. I found replacements online for like $20, but they just have a little nub on the front, is there a larger knob that is not shown? Should I bother replacing it?

     

    s-l225.jpg

  13. Honestly I think they were 1 or so a pack and they come in packs of 5 I only used 1 so got the spares. Just send me a message with it, I could be off on price but if your radio shack is in the next county like mine, It took me a minute to get over that way and it is so so so nice not seeing a flashing beacon on the dash when there is nothing wrong:Avatars_Gee_George:.

     

    Got them in the mail yesterday, put it in today, and the light went out! Thanks again!

     

    --Matt

  14. Well I was gonna mount them under my trunk. But since they would not work anyway I went I ended up just switching out the flasher for an Led Flasher. The front ones I actually mounted on the frontal fairing bracket on a flat piece of metal. Are you wiring the resistor across the positive and negative wire? for some reason a frame ground will not work. My lights with all four leds and four resistors flashed about 6-8 times a minute. I think they were blinking very slowly.

     

     

     

    As to this I got all my bulbs from Oriley Auto. They do price match Wal-Mart also... Don't matter the brand unless Wal-Mart stocks that Brand. Now as for Autozone there stuff for some reason would not work, got the same bulb or so I thought at Oreily and it works just fine in my Brake Lights. The only bulbs I got off for my dash you can get on Ebay But the polarity has to be right so I just installed all the bulbs with the key turned on that way I knew when I had them in correctly. I am still trying to make sense of a write up I found for making the 83 blinkers work with LEDS and have Cancelling unit.

     

    Just so You know MattK I snipped my cancelling unit wire that ran to the flasher, then ran the earth side to the body ground where I had one resistor mounted. But I had to buy the Flasher for 4-6 LED bulbs, I can not mix my bulbs it says. I have no resistors plugged in what so ever I think I may still have the one resistor in the right side unless I took it off when I took the fairing off when I mounted my aftermarket TCI box in the right Fairing Inner mount. But that one is not hooked up I just snipped the wires by removing the turn signal. It is gonna be hard for me to get any pictures this week if the kids don't go to school tomorrow. They called it off today because one of the schools being destroyed, they are talking possibly not having school the rest of the year:think: all these schools here they can't build them fast enuff to keep up with all the kids, all the classes are maxed out.. so there trying to figure out what to do with all of them. Wouldn't suprise me if they haul in modular classrooms for Goodman Elementary Unless they had some of those too. If so well might as well kiss my Bike projects and other project bye bye till this Fall...:yikes:

     

    I would love to trade out to a different flasher and be done with it if that's what I can do. The thing I worry about is I read somewhere on here that there is a starter relay in the flasher as well? So I'm not sure what to buy to make it work. Don't suppose you remember which one you put in do you? I don't care about the self cancelling part, I've never had a bike with it so I won't miss it.

  15. I have Leds in my 83 but at the cost of my canceling unit. All that happened was that I cut the wire about 2 inches from the plug. I can always put my wire back together and go back to incadescents. The resistors worked but put a strain on the system plus I didn't like how hot the things got. I should have video up on what I did somewhere. But like I said I lost my canceling unit.

    Where exactly did you wire in the resistors? I'm still not sure I'm understanding where they go on the bike. I put mine in right before the rear turn signal under the trunk, and when that didn't do it I wired the other one inside the fairing behind the left turn signal. I'm at my wits end here. Could I just need a new flasher? They blink a little slow with the incandescents as well.

  16. I am also ready to give up. I put LEDs from Super Bright LEDs in the turn signals, wired in these resistors https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/flashers-load-resistors/led-light-load-resistor-kit-led-turn-signal-hyper-flash-warning-fix/190/831/

     

    First tried one at the rear signal, turned on the switch....and it stays on solid. Wired the second one up by the front signal, figuring maybe I need four, and if it worked on the one side, I would just order two more resistors and....it blinks! Suuuuuuuppper slllooowwwwllyyy, like three timmes and then just stayed on solid. Is kicking the bike into a ditch the appropriate response here? I'm new to all this and I'm not sure how to react.

     

    Thanks in advance

    --Matt

  17. First of all, you guys are awesome! In the week that I've been using this forum, I've gotten three of the four warning lights on the dash to go off, and as soon as I can get to Radio Shack to get some resistors, I'll get the last one too, so thanks!

     

    Next, I bought the bike (an '83 VR) and I don't have my endorsement until next week, so I can't really take it out on the highway yet, and it runs a little rough when cold. I understand that it's probably just cold and has older fuel in it but I'd like to level it out as much as possible before I pay for a carb rebuild. I bought a can of Seafoam, but I'm not sure when to put it in. The bike is gonna sit for another ten days or so, and I know it can benefit from Seafoam sitting in there for a few days. So here's the question: Should I put it in now and let it sit in there for ten days, or put it in 7 or 8 days from now to let it sit for two or three days? The tank is about half full, but I don't know for sure how old the fuel is (I bought it from a motorcycle shop and they took it in on trade). It fires right up, tires don't look rotten, although I'm gonna replace them anyway, and has about 45,000 miles.

     

    Arrrghhh!

     

    --Matt

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