jfman
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Posts posted by jfman
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April 1st
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Cowpoc: Good thing this forum and people like you exists because otherwise keeping a 1st gen Venture alive would cost as much as buying a new Goldwing.
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Mine is a 1988.
My 1983 used to start perfect everytime. I should have removed the starter before I got rid of it.
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Hello Guys,
Reviving this old thread.
My bike does this. It starts fine when cold but when the bike is warm the starter either wont work at all or is verrrrry slow and wont get the bike going. The warmer the bike is, the weaker the starter seems to be.
I even connected jumper cables directly to the starter(postivie lead on the wire's nut, negative lead to the engine case next to the starter) to a big truck battery and it's the same result.
I let the bike cool down and the starter works fine gain unit it gets hot.
What do you guys think?
Can these starters be taken apart and inspected easely?
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Are you talking about A/F mixture screw spring?
I am 95% certain you can source it from Kawasaki.
https://www.ronayers.com/oemparts/p/kawasaki/92081-1002/spring-pilot-adjust-screw
FWIW I ordered these little A/F mixture seals from kawa and they fit perfect.
https://www.ronayers.com/oemparts/p/kawasaki/92055-1002/ring-o-pilot-adjust
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Diaghpragm wrong size completely
Jet block plug only 1 given when I need two and it on top of that it's was wrong size for either holes
the little oring for the diaphragm cover was the wrong size (too big)
The retaining clip on the float needle bottomed out on the edge of the seat before the needle itself bottomed out.
All I used from the kits are the decel diapraghms, the bowl gaskets and the jet block gaskets and the fit was not even that good. The jet block gasket felt thick and the bowl gasket did not fit 100%. . The rest is not needed or trash = not Worth it
I am posting this just in case you were considering using one of these kits.
If you had/have better luck than me let me know
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Well then time to ride;)
Tell how are things with the covid19? I see Quebec has it the worst in Canada.
We got hit harder than the rest of Canada because our spring break is earlier than in other provinces. People went on vacation for the break and came back with the virus. It's the folks in assisted living buildings that have been hit the hardest. A handful of private establishements lost control and the govt had to step in and send in personel to take over.
But all in all it's still not that bad especially if you compare to the US wich is beeing hit hard with the virus right now.
I live in downtown Montreal but am exiled at my folks vacant country home. I have been here for a month now.
Here in the middle of nature the effects of the virus aren't felt much. It's just weird when I go to the grocery store I run into people I know I cant be too firendly.
I work from home so I havent been hit by this financially yet. I even have more money that usual because I don't buy anything.
Maybe I am overly optimistic but I feel liek economically it wo'nt be that bad here. Everyone online is talking about buying stuff and planning motrocycle rides etc.. There aren't that many people who think the financial hardships are coming. This province hasnt been hit with a real hard recession in decades. Even in 2008 things were ok here so the memory of the pain is absent.
How are you guys? I worry about Alberta because the oil market is not going to recover from this quickly and things were bad to begin with. I feel like here the economy is more diversified and there has never been a big boom or bust, it's been more like a slow and steady growth since the crappy mid '90s.
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Thinking unless you have a harness issue the most likely fault is the igniter.
You mentioned after changing it out that she ran well, and consistent?
I think it worth check the pickup coil now to be sure that it is in spec and not also on the way out.
When I swap my good CDI in the bike runs perfect.
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If any one of the 8 diodes fails the chip and hence the whole TCI is now junk.
The diodes are a very common, readily available and cheap part.
If it runs on 3 cylinders... the chip is still good no?
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I also like it. Retro, simple, clean, minimalist(not talking about price here)
Will I buy one?: never $$$
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I tried an experiment tonight.
I plugged the CDI to the bike without its cover and while the bike was running I bypassed the two bad looking circuits with a jumper wire.
This did not seem to fix the non firing cylinder.
Maybe the fault in on the other side of the CDI where I have no acces.
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Where did you get that little fuse box? I like it.
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Problem area #3 on this long circuit the green conductive film is severely compromised over a long area on the left path. Is there a away to repair this? Can I bybass the compromised area by soldering a wire in there. Worth it? Worth trying?
Is there a way know which circuit runs the front right coil on this CDI(#4?)
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Problem area #2 : As you can see the soldering point is rusty right there and the green conductive film looks a bit compromised.
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Problem Area #1 : there is pitting on the soldering and the green conductiive flim in this area. Eough to case an issue?
Good on left bad on right
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I have two Ventures.
One of the ventures under most conditions will not spark the front right plug. According to my testings it seems to spark the front right coil only when starting the motor. Once the motor runs the front right plug never fires.
I then swapped the CDI from my other venture and the bike runs perfect with the other CDI in place.
I thus deducted that the problem is the CDI.
I then removed both covers from both CDIs to compare them.
Take a look:
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I also used the NGK Iridium plugs. Seem to be working great! What really sold me on the iridium plugs was a video on YouTube showing the comparison between standard and iridium. Longevity is also a major plus. I still check mine at the suggested intervals.
My Kawasaki Versys 1000 came stock with Iridium plugs and I did not replace them until the bike had 110k kms (70-75k miles)
Whe I pulled them out, I could see some wear on the tip of the plugs (it was begining to look pointy rather than flat) but the bike was still running just fine. I noticed a small difference in throttle response after the replacement.
Honestly on a good running bike I would not hesitate one second keeping iridium plugs in there for a least 50k miles and on a bike where they are hard to get to I would double that number and just wait untill it's time to do a bigger job like a valve adjust to replace them.
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I tried to fish the seal/gasket thru the hole in the tank but did not work.
In the end I just tuged on the petcock a lot harder and it finslly came out.
The filter on the end of the brass tube is bigger than the tube, hence the Reason why its such a pain to slide it out of there. putting it back in was much easier.
JF
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O.k. I'm sorry my memory is failing me a little. I had the rear tire off, the right saddlebag off, and the right crash bar off. In my case, I don't think those things had to be off in order for me to take the petcock out from the bottom; however, I know I didn't have to do anything to the tank. After breaking the seal loose from the bottom of the tank, I canted it slightly to the side in order to allow it to snake between the frame rail and the swing arm.
If you figure out what the difference might be with our two bikes, will you let me know?
Searching some old threads I see some petcocks with two plastic tubes and others(like mine) with a long brass tube that wont bend.
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Mine came out from the bottom on my '93...snaked down beside the frame. I had the rear tire off at the time but if memory serves me correctly, I deduced at the time that the rear tire didn't need to be off. I specifically thought about that because I had asked someone else if I could get it out from the bottom and wanted to share my experiences with others. Does it seem like you'd have more room on yours with the tire off?
No the lower frame rail is what is in the way.
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Interesting. In your case, measuring at the spot on the lobes where Yamaha directs us to measure resulted in an incorrect valve lash for that particular valve. Were there any indications that that lobe was worn oddly or machined incorrectly?
Yes but I only observed this for one valve. I checked others and did not have that issue.
BTW: nothing "looked" worn out by eye but this bike does have a lot of miles and poor oïl change practices according to sludge build up that I could notice Inside the motor. Impossible to know mileage of the engine because it's a 1300cc motor that was swapped in a 1985 for this bike.
The bike does start and run just fine even prior to me adjusting valves.
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I repaired a leaker on a cross country tour one time by cleaning the mating surfaces the best I could, splitting the new gasket with my jack knife, slipping it in and setting it in Seal All and allow over night to set up.. Sounds funky BUT,, couple hundred thousand miles later when she went to scrap, second gear was still gone and bike was a worn out disaster but the pet cock was still holding solid
Maybe I'll try this.
I looked in my toolbox and I have 4 of these petock seals from Yamaha. I keep buying them forgetting I already have one on hand.
J-F
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I am replacing the petcock gasket on my bike and after removing the fuel line and both screws, the petock wont come out. It seems as if the brass tube for the ON fuel pick up is too long and I cannot angle the petcock away enough from he frame rail to be able to pull it out.
Does the tank have to come out for this job?
Can I slip the new gasket over the brass tube somehow?
Is there a trick to this to save work?
44$ CAD for a new battery!
in Watering Hole
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Hey guys!
Two weeks ago I ordered a battery for my bike. 44$ on closeout from Royal Distributing and it was free shipping.
It came in today so I thought I would pass it along.
https://www.royaldistributing.com/crank-battery-sy50-n18l-at.html