kinsmd69

Bags aren't original. Bought them with the promise of the spare key. Now, person wont give me spare key, but wants more money, cause has both keys and ignition and gas cap.

I have a pair of hard side saddle bags. I was suppose to get a key with them, and now its gone south. Is it easy to get new keys for the bags? and get the locks out?

IF a dealer ship has them, they have nothing into the bikes. Trade take ins are figured in to sell of a vehicle. Hold out for atleast $2,500 , or better yet, wait out. Go back 30 days and offer them your original $2k. They need the space and inventory moved, more than you need to buy them. If they were going to get them running and do something with them, why haven't they by now??

I have a 84 venture with I believe the plunger in the handle leaking. Is there an easy fix for this, or best to find a replacement or new plunger? The cover over this area has a bolt with the head and nut both submerged into the handle(neither end sticking out to take off). Feeling stupid, anyone ever take this bolt off to replace clutch plunger unit????? or just undo whole unit of handle bar and replace all?? Thanks

ok, that screw at bottom of a plounger plate, it wouldn't screw in at all, so its all the way in. I screwed it back one full turn and the idle picked up. Is there a set place it should be at, to start a good adjustment? The no. 1 carb has vacuum in the plug, but there is no change/decrease in idle when I pull plug off. The no. 3 carb has straightened out, so 2,3,4 carbs all have vacuum and lose approximately half idle when plug on intake cover is removed. Only no. 1 still has no change. Bike is idling at 1000 good and strong, since 3 picked up. But no 1 cylinder is still slower at getting hot in top half, but does warm up. Membership on its way.

Here's your first sign; the run/kill switch was bypassed. That's electrical in itself. My lessons in life, save a bike that is original in functionality, but walk away from a good bargain on someone else's project. My vote is to pass on this one. Keep an eye out, there are good bargains out there for these bikes, running!

Ok. Have all new plugs, all firing. no problems. Cant find linkage screw, as mentioned above. Looked into manual, no" linkage screw to adjust," (all other jets and screws, none as linkage). Has a tear down view of carbs. Found pilot screw and jet. No problems with panel lights, all off and everything running ok, except carbs. Still cant ride bike, cause of shoulder.

S.G. The plan is to get it running well, first. Having issues with no. 1 and no. 3 carb. Thought, a little more sea form overnight, might help clean them out better. No. 1 has no change when I pull off vacuum plug; no. 3 cylinder heats up faster, and carb 3 pops after warmed up. I bleed clutch to get it working. Brakes work also. Need to change all hydraulic fluids yet, since not sure how long sat, 1-2 yrs in heated garage. Who / where does membership fees get sent?

SG Thanks, I plan on sending in the membership fee. This bike is the first of three projects I got to do this summer. I have already learned a lot from this page. And I can and will learn a lot more from this website. My heart has always been in working on bikes, its my mind and hands that I have trouble with !!! Some days I just shouldn't pick up a tool! But all of those that have responded have been very helpful. Now, I'm just starting the bike and running the gas through the carbs to help get them cleaned. I'm thinking of putting more sea foam in the carbs by means of drain hose and letting them sit over night. If the weather holds up, I hope to polish it and clean all the chrome. All little things wrong are slowly loosening up and working again.

Well, started up fine today, with a little choke, then no check in 2 mins. Once warmed, tried to check the vacuum in each carb. No. 1 carb , pulled the vacuum plug , got no change; therefore must be a vacuum leak somewhere, correct? Pulled vacuum plug on 2, put back, then pulled VP on carb 3, both had at least a change in functioning, and went back to normal when put VP back on each one. Tried no. 4 carb, and it popped and sputtered and almost died. Put vacuum gauge on each carb and it bounced all over the place on each carb. Got suspension aired up and holding.

The ride over is encouraging, but Ive got to get the other bugs out first; suspension, carbs cleaned out, ect. Plus, Ive never drove a bike w/sidecar, so its going to be an experience. And I just tore my left rotator cuff, so not sure if can even ride it, or that long even. Also, since been sitting for a year, shouldn't I wait until carbs get cleaned out better before syncing, and how long will it take? Don't wont to take it for an out of town ride and have it break down, I couldn't get it on a trailer again!!!. I like and appreciate your offer to sync the carbs, and will take you up on it. Besides, was going to join the site, anyway! Its actually running better, the more I start and get gas run thru it. I put sea foam in the gas to help keep cleaning it. JasonM, thanks, and yes, now it comes off the choke after a few minutes.

That sounds like a good deal. Only, not sure if bike will make it. I cant believe your only 25 miles away. Can you also set the carbs for running rich or lean? It starts right up, and warms up and idles at 900 . Though, there still is missing. I put sea foam in gas and filled tank to help clean them out more. Can't believe how well S.F. worked by putting in drain hoses. Also, now all cylinders are getting warm. Now that cylinder 4 has warmed up, I will attempt to get that plug out. Plus, front shocks are bottoming out, so must need air. I found a vacuum guage, but only one line. Can I attempt to synch carbs with just one line hooked to #2 , #1 , then #3 , #4 , individually?

Thanks, syscrusher. I quit for the night, and tried it the next day, and it went right on ! I didn't have the shifter rod pulled out far enough.

Ok thanks.

Ok, so how does one check each carb to tell if it is running lean or rich? Then, how do you try and sync the carbs without a vacuum tool? I have none. Thanks. My bike is a 83 1200. Got very lucky and is in good condtion. Also, have a 84 to start bringing back to life. PO was going to part out and junk.

Ok, also need to bleed the clutch. At least now, it starts right up, and will stay idling at 1100 after 60 secs. I adjusted the 1 and 2 carbs by ear, so it sounded better and idles higher. Will read other posts on clutch bleeding. Any ideas on adjust the carbs to sync them w/o gauges. I'm just an accountant, no mechanic, but try and do what I can.

Ok, now I know what cylinders Im dealing with. Thankyou. I have no vacuum gauges. Bike idles, but can tell this is missing, so guess carbs need synched. Anyway to get the balance between the carbs close by ear? Thankyou!

Oh, and all cylinders getting warm. Will re -start on choke immediately, 20 secs take off choke, and idles at 700 rpms. Sounds smooth and no missing. Still have to get clip on shift lever Find smoke problem. Don't wont to over heat right rear cylinder. Have started 3 times and let run for a minute, until smoke starts, then shut off and cool again. Top two lights on left, on control panel, are on. Looking them up now. Thanks all!!!!

OK! Put sea foam in drain hoses, drained out of bowls 4 hours later. Replaced 3 spark plugs, 4th - right front giving trouble, its tight and socket slips, might let shop do that one. Turned key, fuel pump clicked up, choke on high, started right up! After 60 secs. running, smoke started at right rear cylinder(4th) by exhaust connection from cyl. head to exhaust. Cant tell anything on it. But its at where the small bolt is on the exhaust side, 2-3 inches down facing out. Also, any hints on putting c clip back on shifter rod lever? Pics coming tonight!!!!

Ok, drained all the bowls. Left front(1) had about 18ml, smelled old, left rear(2) had 18ml and smelled like new gas. Right front(3) had 18ml and smelled old, right rear (4) was empty!! Is there a separate input line I should check on number for 4 carb? If I turn key to fill up bowls, and empty them a couple times, is this good to clean out the carbs? Idle mixture screws have black rubber sealant on them; is that factory or have they been adjusted before? 7500 orig. miles on bike.

Thanks for the pics. So, is the idle screw the one between the float drain lines with the big head?

Ok, I read about checking float bowls with clear tube. Can someone show a pic of flow bowl on the carb? Is it behind the brass fitting with the jet? If float bowls are receiving enough gas, but bike wont start, like starving from fuel, and have spark, what's next? My bike only has 7500 miles on it. The PO always ran the gas out of it, followed a check list, for the winter.

Ok, apparently, the fuel pump isn't clicking on everytime with the key. Is there something, fuse?, to check to see why the fuel pump stops clicking after the second or third time to start bike?

No, Vonwolf. Actually, I had the air breather in, but lid off, and it would start and idle poor for 15 secs. Now, that I put the lid on the air breather box, it wont even start with choke on full and idle. Now, there is just small backfire(puff)(?) thru carbs sound. Will try swapping out fuel pump tomorrow afternoon.

I have spark on all 4 cylinders. Fuel pump clicks on each time with turn of key. Will try switching out another fuel pump tomorrow , to see if first one is weak.