Droneh8tr
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Posts posted by Droneh8tr
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Totally agree with the Pucster:backinmyday:, no point not replacing everything you can. On my latest set of forks in order to upgrade the brakes after just rebuilding a set of 83 forks over the winter. Shoulda thunk it all out before doing all that work, c'est la wee.
On the three sets I've taken apart there was another bushing, although it's called a piston. It's not on the '83 diagrams but it is on '84 and up. It's # 36-73 on the '84 diagram. I ordered those also, we'll see when the parts arrive if it's actually that bottom bushing. I'll let you know.
Yes please, do let me know what you find. I'm going to pull apart the forks and take a look at everything and inspect. Thanks for responding.
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There is a bushing under the fork seal that also wears out. If you click the link below you will see it listed as part 5 - 41. That 5 - 41 basically represents part "5" and part "41" because there are two of them. http://www.yamahapartsnation.com/oemparts/a/yam/5004247cf8700209bc787e42/front-fork Its always good to check these bushings for slop when you get it apart and they are not under tension.
Also, the stock fork springs are not of best quality. I have yet to have a set of stock springs that werent sacked by 30k on all my 1st Gens. Sacked springs are hard on seals too (IMHO). Its a REALLY good idea to drop in a set of Progressives if yours are sacked - I like 3/4 inch of preload on my Progressives and never use air after swapping em out.
I also like 12.5 weight Bell Ray Fork oil for the refill - gives a good ride.
Good info, thanks for confirming what I was already thinking. I'm thinking next Tuesday I'll start to take the front end off and start this project, thanks for the input.
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Hey all, I hope you're getting your Ventures ready for the riding season. I am.
I've noticed for quite a while that my front forks are leaking fluid badly around the dust seals. So obviously, I'm thinking the oil seals are gone. But my question is, should I replace anything else other than the oil seals and the dust deals? I guess what I'm getting at, are there any guides that keep the struts in alignment internally that I should be concerned about. I don't feel that there's any slop up there, but I thought I would ask.
I've got 63,000 miles on it.
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*****UPDATE UPDATE UPDATE*****
ok, so in lieu of no other ideas, I went ahead with resoldering select connections. I don't know why, BUT, I've gotten the RPMs down to about 700 RPMs before the #2 cylinder drops out. So, I'm gonna put the bike back together, I've got wires rerouted all over, and run it on the road this weekend. HOPEFULLY, it will still develop proper power at higher RPMs. I'm still open to suggestions on what could be going on or what I could test, but for now I'll leave it as is, button up the TCI box, reattach it and go for a test ride.
On an even more positive note, in past threads I reported that #2 and #3 cylinders didn't want to warm up properly at idle. Well, now their immediately getting warm and I believe it's idling better. I'm thinking I messed something up AND I fixed some connections with my exploratory surgery. Ultimately, as of now, I'm thinking things are better. I'll know better after I get it back on the road.
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OK L&G, I switched number one and two coil, and spark plug wires, but the problem stayed with number two cylinder. This would imply to me that the coil is fine, it's something other then the coil that is failing. Can I test the pick up coil while it's in operation? Is there any chance the pick up coil is failing and that's what's causing the signal to the TCI to stop causing power to the coil to be cut off?
I've asked about the transistor which could be the component causing the power to cut on and off to the coil. Does anybody know how to get a replacement? I'll wait for you all to respond. But, I'm also considering resoldering the transistor to the board to see if maybe I just didn't solder it well enough.
Anything else?
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I have been reading this with interest...
I'm afraid I have nothing to offer but I did not see any response to the suggestion to try swapping the #2 coil with another one to see if it does the same thing.
or is it unique because of running tach?
Thanks for the reminder.. I forgot to try this. I'm gonna do it today. My garage isn't heated but I'm anxious to see what happens.
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It is necessary to check a condition of output transistors in TCI.
So KISA, do you have a story where you found one of your transistors to be bad and had to replace it? I would be interested in knowing if you tested your transistors only with an ohm meter and if you had to replace them what did you replace it with, make, model etc?
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Could there be a different feed to the coils at different rpm's? don't know what for and what good that might be,,,, just a thought.
Interesting thought, thanks for contributing to my issue. I hadn't thought what your proposing, but what I thought was a low rpm was causing something to drop out of the system, for an unknown reason, a reason I'm trying to figure out. I don't think, necessarily, my TCI is dead, but merely injured. I'll keep soliciting input as well as reading about such issues with other bikes. I can't help but think that maybe a resolder of something or replacement of an electrical component will solve my problem. Either way it interests me to pursue an answer.
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Ckeck the red/white wire to see if its power is dropping out.
Check the wire on the otherside of the coil at low RPM, if it is pulsing like it should ,your voltmeter will give all kinds of weird readings. If it reads zero then either the coil is open and/or the TCI is not switching properly. If it is reading a steady 12v then the TCI is not switching it to ground.
If you have a 12V LED (test light) and you connect it across the coil it should flash in time with the spark.
Thanks FLYINFOOL for the info.. please advise on this..
I connected the red wire of my voltmeter to the red/white wire of the coil = 12 volts, on this coil and the others, 1000 RPM
I connected the red wire of my voltmeter to the orange wire of the coil =
As Im getting volts to the orange wires of the other coils #2 cylinder wouldn't this indicate alls well with the other cylinders? Maybe my digital voltmeter isn't keeping up with the volt changes.
When all the cylinders are firing it sounds smooth with good throttle response.
You mentioned that their could be a switching problem. Would the "switch" be the 4 large, black, square transistors on the board, the ones with the aluminum tab with a screw and nut through it?
I know I can buy an aftermarket computer, but its kinda fun trying to work out this problem.
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Hey L&Gs... I have a question
When the RPMs drop too low, #2 ignition coil power stops.. Could this be caused by the pickup coil failing at the lower RPM??? The Pickup coil tested OK, but whats baffling me is why do I loose everything to the ignition coil and the only other component I can think of is the Pickup coil..
Anyway, I thoguht of this while in a meeting at work and was wondering if this was possible, probable or unlikely.. Let me know please.
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There are 2 wires to each coil.
The red wire with white strip that goes to all of the coils should have 12 V all the time that the ignition is turned on, running or not, it should not pulse when the engine is running.
The other wire (color varies by cylinder) is the wire that goes to the TCI. The TCI supplies the switched ground to the coil, This wire will be pulsing between ground and 12v with the engine running. It is not worth the effort to try to measure this wire with a volt meter, you will get all kinds of weird readings. You could check this wire with the ignition on and engine not running, it should show near 12V which would verify that you do not have an open coil. This will not tell you if the coil is good, just checks one possible form of bad.
The red/white wire that goes to the TCI is the same circuit as the red/white wire to the coils. BUT the wire goes thru the kill switch between the TCI and the coils. So if the TCI has clean 12v and the coils do not, check the kill switch.
This is also good info.. this gives me an idea of what else I can test..
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Not only make sure that you have good solder joints but also that you have not bridged any solder joints.
Although dropping out under 1400 RPM sounds more like a failing component than a bad solder joint. A bad connection would still be bad at all speeds.
If you can find someone nearby that might have a known good TCI to try, you could quickly narrow the source of your issues.
I think I'm gonna try swapping mine out with someone.. Good idea
There should be 12 volts at the primary side of the coils.HHHMMMMM.. I wonder if anyone else has measured the volts on the plug to the ignition coils and what they got. I am getting 12 volts to the TCI.
G'day, I am not a mechanic or electrician but if I had this problem on my '83 I would swap the coil to another cylinder to see if I had the same problem occurring, if so then I would just replace the coil, if not, then it must be a wiring problem perhaps.You may have tried this already, sometimes the obvious is forgotten. (I know I am the master at it!!!!) good luck.
I don't mind being reminded of the obvious, I've already done what your suggesting and no difference.
Steve
While running, the 12 volts is going to be pulsing on and off, not constant. Depending on the response time of your voltmeter you will only see at best an average of the pulses level. The signal is best and properly seen with an oscilloscope, not a voltmeter...Now this is interesting.. I remember that their was pulsing involved, I just didn't think it would affect the voltmeter this way.. Interesting. I think I'm gonna try and borrow a TCI from someone.. I don't know how or where I could get an oscilloscope. Thanks
I haven't given up yet.
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Here's the latest.
i used a voltmeter on the wires going to the ignition coils. I have no idea if these numbers are correct, but, they were consistent with all the coils..
1500 rpm.. @ .8
2000 rpm..@.75
2500 rpm.. @ .9
i did see the voltmeter go up to maybe 2 1/2 volts at idle.. Mind you the rpms weren't very stable so my reading tended to jump around a little.
Heres my biggest observation- when I was measuring the volts for number 2 coil, when the rpms dropped below @1400 rpms the cylinder stopped firing, the volts disappeared.. 0 volt reading to the coil. The others floated near the 2 1/2 volt area.
So my question is, when the RPMS drop below @ 1400, why would this cause the volts to the coil to stop? I've checked the connections and they seem ok. This seems to me to be a TCI problem. But why below 1400 RPMS? I'm thinking I'll need to go back inside the TCI and make sure I've good solder joints specifically associated with number 2 cylinder.
thoughts?
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Since the tach is also dropping out that means the the problem is on the primary side of the coil. check all that wiring and connectors. Check to be sure that a pin has not backed out of the connector to cause intermittent contact.
Im gonna start this today... I hope this helps.
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UPDATE***UPDATE***
OK, it's snowing here in Richmond Virginia, but I wanted to keep working on my VR to see if I can figure out better what's going on.
The vacuum sensor Off of number two cylinder checked out at 2.16 volts... PERFECT
When the bike idles at about 1400 RPM, no choke, it purrs like a kitten. But, if I let the idol get any slower it sounds as though one or two cylinders drop off and it starts running rough with a little bit of backfiring. Also, once it drops below 1400 RPM the tachometer stops working.
So I understand the tachometer runs off of number two cylinder, but why would the cylinder have such issues below 1400 RPM?
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Bike year? Model?
I'm laughing at myself for not including that...
83 VR
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So, a few weeks ago number one cylinder stop firing. I tested the ignition coils, pick up coils, spark plug boot, spark plug wire, and any connection I could find. So I decided, what do I have to lose if I take the TCI off and check inside. I had already replaced the diodes and a capacitor. Of course, when I looked inside I didn't see anything obvious. So I decided to re-solder the entire board.
Well, when I plugged it back into the motorcycle and pushed the start button the number one cylinder fired beautifully. 😎Unfortunately, I appeared to have done something to the Spark advance as I'm getting quite a bit of backfire and the tachometer is kind of bouncing around and dies sporadically and it won't idle very well at all except with the choke on. The motorcycle idled fine prior to the re-solder of the board, so I really have no doubt that my soldering is what's causing the timing issue. But to be on the safe side I'll test the timing advance box and make sure the vacuum hose isn't damaged or disconnected or something.
Hopefully, I didn't damage something when I was resoldering. I tend to think not because it was a pretty easy process and I don't think anything got very hot. I'm thinking maybe I just didn't solder something properly or thoroughly. I'll go back over it with a multi meter and see what I can see.
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Diodes can be replaced but must be done before they fail.
With pre-1990 the diodes should be replaced just in case.
I know nothing more about it.
During my extensive tear down, that was one of my projects. So I have done the diodes and a capacitor. Thanks for reminding me about them though.
i think I recall seeing the procedure for testing the TCI. I'll try to find it.
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If I recall correctly the red/white will have +12v on it with the key on. The TCI triggers it by interrupting the ground on the orange wire.
You should be able to test the coil by putting +12v on the red/white wire and bumping a wire connected to the orange to the (-). You just want to bounce it across, if you keep it energized you can potentially overheat the primary.
To a large extent the TCI has four separate circuits in it. Just because it fires 3 of your cylinders does not mean it is good.
Interesting.. I thought their must be a voltage amount going into the coil.. Ill try that tomorrow.
Now, as for the TCI. Can the TCI be repaired? I suspect the answer is no, but, maybe something inside just needs to be unsoldered and a new electrical component installed. Whats your thoughts on this?
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So I started my Venture the other day, noticed it didn't sound right or idling quite right. The left rear cylinder wasn't warm. Pulled the plug and thought it was pretty dirty, so I switched it out.. Still no spark.
Primary and secondary coils tested OK
Pickup coils tested OK
Removed/cleaned the plugs to the TCI, NO CHANGE, still no spark
Switched the spark plug boot with another one, NO SPARK
Nipped the ends off the spark plug wire, NO SPARK
Shouldn't I be able to read a voltage from the TCI to the coil from the orange and red/white wires? If so, what should it be?
Any other ideas?
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I put a Shinko on my 89. Had a bit of a sway, too. Found out if I pump the tire to 42lbs, all is good. Not sure if it was the tire at 38 or not. Just know the higher pressure stopped it for me.
I have 230's on front and rear. Love how well it sticks and handles.
Excellent info.. I'll check a couple quick things, pressure being one of them, and give it a test ride.
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That is not a new problem, it ha been experienced before. Wizard765 and I had that problem a few years ago when we installed Avons. His went away with a tire change, mine stuck it out for a lot longer.
Steering head can be an issue, rear wheel alignment can also have an effect. Other things to look at: tire pressures, fork oil levels, swing arm lubrication and wear, cracked frame, wheel bearings. I did all of those with some improvement, but it never did go away completely,,, until I bought a Spyder, and then I had different issues.
Good List.. I'll be getting on these things.. I'm going to do 1 at a time, test ride, do another. I would really like to determine what caused this. Could be just the tire though.
make sure the rear spacer and washer are installed proper order and the axel is torqued (I don't use a TORQUE WRENCH BUT IT IS CRANKED ON TIGHT), without the pinch bolts.. and then snug the pinchbolts.Yeah definitely gonna do this. Thanks for responding
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Since it didn't do it before the tire change, I'd lean to looking at anything touched during the tire change, the tire itself and also at tire pressures....
This was exactly my thought..
As you are going to look at the axle nut anyway,while you are there,make sure it is assembled correctly and that the tire isn't coming apart and fully seated on the rim.Yeah, MAYBE it wasn't assembled or seated properly.. I'm gonna get into this and see what I come up with.
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83 VR
so I put a new rear tire on, Shinko, now I have a "sway" starting at 65 MPG. But let me be more descriptive.. At 60 and below my ride behaves like its tracking a rail... At about 65, the whole bike feels like the tires move to the right then back. Not violently, but very noticeably. I didn't notice any pulling or pushing of the handlebars. I felt that it was coming from the rear. It was as though I was the point of pivot, so I didn't feel I was moving, but the bike moving left and right under me. My intentions are to:
Torque the head tube
Torque the swingarm
torque the rear axle, probably do this first then test ride
if still no success with these items, I'll probably progressive spring the front forks with new seals and consider upgrading the fork brace.
So, any other ideas of what to look for? All of this happened after replacing the rear tire.
83 VR, forks leaking badly, what to buy to fix..
in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
Posted
What great responses. You folks sure can come up with the pics and videos to help solve a question.. So I've inspected all my components and found them to be in good working order. I only replaced the oil and dust seal and so far so good, no leaks and a better feel in the front end.
Now my only issue is the wobble at 70+ MPH.