LED Light kit Install

[IronMike]

I have the Customdynamics LED Light kit which includes both sets of turn signals. Front and rear. Its a direct fit LED boards that plug into stock sockets.

 

Here is where the problem comes in.

 

No 1. You have to hard wire in the LED flasher. Seems simple enough two wires, Maybe add a clip to the end and replace the stock one after finding the steady hot and the Flashing hot. Soon as I find the flasher. LOL I can look it up but feel free to point.

 

And here is the hard part because I hate cutting a factory wire. They have some resistors that they say must go in line to the Turn signal indicator wire. That would be the wire that makes the light flash on the dash. I am guessing this is a split the fairing JOB? Or can I hit it under the tank somewhere?

 

I have not seen anyone post they have installed THIS kit but if so. Clue me in, Or I'll be first.

[hubbsfd]

I have the Customdynamics LED Light kit which includes both sets of turn signals. Front and rear. Its a direct fit LED boards that plug into stock sockets.

 

Here is where the problem comes in.

 

No 1. You have to hard wire in the LED flasher. Seems simple enough two wires, Maybe add a clip to the end and replace the stock one after finding the steady hot and the Flashing hot. Soon as I find the flasher. LOL I can look it up but feel free to point.

 

And here is the hard part because I hate cutting a factory wire. They have some resistors that they say must go in line to the Turn signal indicator wire. That would be the wire that makes the light flash on the dash. I am guessing this is a split the fairing JOB? Or can I hit it under the tank somewhere?

 

I have not seen anyone post they have installed THIS kit but if so. Clue me in, Or I'll be first.

 

I just did this conversion on my 2008 RSV. I bought the kit which comes with a Diode Kit which you won't need because you have two turn signal indicator lights. The Diode Kit is for a bike with only one indicator light. You also received two equalizers. Don't bother trying to get the lights to flash normal speed using these two equalizers it won't be enough to convince your two flashers (yes you have two flasher units) that you have bulbs. You will need one equalizer in the fairing up front (yes that means splitting the fairing) and a "Slimline Signal Stabilizer" on the rear. Trust me on this as I have just completed this with much trial and error last week. You don't have to solder the connections although I always do. You can use the PosiLock connectors provided they work fine. That way you don't have to cut and splice stock wires if you don't want to. Send me a PM if you want advice along the way. It's not hard to do but there are a couple gotchas I might be able to help you with. Glad to help a fellow forum member.

[IronMike]

thanks a million for all that info I'll be in touchthe bike is down until I get this done

[csdexter]

It should also be mentioned that there are LED-compatible flashers out there and that you could replace your main flasher relay (behind the right side cover) with one of those and do away with all the cutting and splicing into the OEM harness.

 

Furthermore, the other two flasher relays on the bike do not do any flashing: the first one is concerned with the auto-cancel feature and the second one simply routes the flashing signal to the handlebar switch (so that you can "flash right" or "flash left") OR to both sides, bypassing the switch (when the hazards are on). In plain English, this means replacing the main flasher relay would fix both normal operation AND hazards with one shot :-)

 

I'm using this one (http://www.louis.de/_202bf819206f2f633c8b6e367857362c51/index.php?topic=artnr_gr&artnr_gr=10032271) on my bike and works like a charm with both filament bulbs and LEDs. It's an European site, but I'm sure you must have a similar equivalent in the US as well. Also, note that it has the same connector as the OEM one so installing it is straightforward.

 

Hope this helps!

[hubbsfd]

It should also be mentioned that there are LED-compatible flashers out there and that you could replace your main flasher relay (behind the right side cover) with one of those and do away with all the cutting and splicing into the OEM harness.

 

Furthermore, the other two flasher relays on the bike do not do any flashing: the first one is concerned with the auto-cancel feature and the second one simply routes the flashing signal to the handlebar switch (so that you can "flash right" or "flash left") OR to both sides, bypassing the switch (when the hazards are on). In plain English, this means replacing the main flasher relay would fix both normal operation AND hazards with one shot :-)

 

I'm using this one (http://www.louis.de/_202bf819206f2f633c8b6e367857362c51/index.php?topic=artnr_gr&artnr_gr=10032271) on my bike and works like a charm with both filament bulbs and LEDs. It's an European site, but I'm sure you must have a similar equivalent in the US as well. Also, note that it has the same connector as the OEM one so installing it is straightforward.

 

Hope this helps!

 

I'm not an expert but everything I've seen replacing a flasher causes us to loose auto cancel feature. It would be nice to have a new flasher that still has the auto cancel but I can't find one.

[csdexter]

That could be because most aftermarket, solid-state, load-agnostic flashers tend to have a shorter period (higher frequency) than the OEM one. The OEM auto-cancel relay has no power line of its own and only "steals" power during the ON phase of the flasher so, providing shorter such periods means it cannot harvest enough power to "remember" how many speed sensor pulses it counted so far and thus fails to disengage the flashing circuit as initially designed.

 

I would be willing to test, possibly confirm and probably provide a fix for this situation, but my bike is an European model and only has one flasher. Anyone got a pair of (auto-cancel, hazards) relays to lend? I'll happily pay for postage to Ireland and I'll return them unharmed when my testing/research is done :-)

[hubbsfd]

CSDexter: That would be very cool if you end up doing some testing! I'd love to remove the equalizer and the signal stabilizer for an updated self canceling/emergency flash flasher unit. I'll keep an eye out for an OEM flasher unit for you too.

[IronMike]

Yea I found some more friendly lights yo install that don't require an equalizer. And no hacking into the wire harness. Big thanks to hubbsfd for tunning me in on what all was needed to make it work.

 

Its a bit of smoke and mirrors on the custom dynamics web site. I even calles them and they said it was a plug and play sort of install besides the low cost flashee you wire yourself. No mention of hacking wire harness or equalizers. Its basically a generic kit they lead you to believe it's custom.

 

The lights look great though. But I didnt want to cut or tap wires nor run an equalizer. I don't have the room for one .... Don't want the heat. And want to have the option of using the flashers if needed.

 

So they need to go back to the drawing board on this one.

[csdexter]

I'm in the possession of an OEM auto-cancel relay and wire harness, experiments will start when I return from vacation. Looking forward to updating you all with my findings on this mistery ;-)

[csdexter]

Later: it turns out the lucky bag contained the SCCR (sidestand relay, as people know it) and the hazard relay, I'm still missing the auto-cancel one.

 

Surprisingly, this last one seems to be charmed (or cursed!) in some way as it's impossible to find even on eBay! Everybody's trying to sell you the Denso FB257H as "the thing", which is, sadly, not. The FB257H is a full-blown blinker relay with included auto-cancel whereas the RSV has these functions separated.

 

Funny, eBay is littered with auto-cancel relays for 1st Gen Ventures (and that's probably what I'll end up buying) that even seem to have the same colour wiring and pinout as the one that's supposed to be in the RSV.

 

To add insult to injury, the parts (not electrical) diagram for RSV shows (by part number) the flasher as being in the front cowling and the auto-cancel under the right cover which they are not. The hazard relay and the auto-cancel and in the front cowling and the flasher is under the right cover.

 

Oh boy, this is gonna be fun.

[IronMike]

Plug and play! ROTFLMAO Liars. And they charged me $75 shipping and restock fee to return the set of unopened turn signal kit when I realized it was not Plug and play. And it was going to eat more juice AND cause more heat AND take up more room and have me HACK my wires. Just not into it. And it reduces reliability.

 

The double LED license plate light kit I bought off them..... in just 2 months some LEDs went out. Its all Chinese Junk.

 

$74 Sold me something that said was FOR the bike then CHARGED me to return it when I find its not what they said.

[csdexter]

The "item for sale" was labeled as "Bag of relays" not as the individual products. I knew what I was getting and did so for a very low price -- can't complain. All the relays actually in the bag (all 6 of them) work fine (just tested them) so can't complain about that either.

 

For some unknown (commercial?) reason, the auto-cancel relay is a very rare find even at bike dismantlers' sites, just like the lower fairing covers or the CB radio. Will get my hands on one anyway, but it'll take a small bit more ;-)

[csdexter]

(text updated a few times, check back for the latest version)

 

Ok, I've done my homework right and here are the facts (writing this here in the hope that people may find it in the future if they look for it):

 

The "relay bag" I got from PinWall contained:

2x 1UY-81950-92-00: this is a JIS D5011 B4-M1 SPST NC relay in a light blue case with a rubber mount on its back (like all others on this bike). It's made by Panasonic/Nais and if you were to buy it off the shelf, it would be the CA1b-12V-A-5, but since this is the OEM one, it's labelled 1UY-92 ACA22115-1 811 13. These are used (one each) for the carb heater and the brake light, both as high current drivers to avoid killing their associated switches. One of them is under the right side cover, the other is behind the left upper lower-cowling cover. Strangely as it may sound, the brake light on the RSV runs "in reverse" i.e. both brake switches OPEN when you activate them, cutting power to this white relay which has the brake lamp as the load.This was done so out of what appears to be serious safety concerns on the part of the Japanese engineers in conjunction with the cruise control box: they wanted to make dead-sure the cruise control will get deactivated the instant you touch the brakes so they designed the circuit like a dead-man switch :-) A similar design applies to the carb heater circuit as well.

1x 29U-81950-93-00: this is identical to the above, only SPST NO and the case is white (easier to tell apart at assembly time). CA1a-12V-A-5 is the Panasonic/Nais P/N, 29U-93 ACA12115-1 811 10 is the OEM label. This is used for the cruise control box, It is behind the left upper lower-cowling cover when on the bike and is also used as a high current driver.

1x 4XY-81950-00-00: this is the hazard warning relay and is a custom part by Omron that you won't find in the shop. Apart from the Yamaha part number, it's also labeled G8R-3DY-L 01Z8D2 in white lettering over a black case. It has a special connector (female housing/male spades on the relay with male housing/female receptacles on the harness) which looks very similar to the 12 position Yazaki .090" MT. Despite the name, it doesn't do any flashing but circuit switching instead: it behaves as if you activated the turn signal switch both ways at the same time when ON. When OFF, it just routes power to the "other" flasher relay under the right side cover. Yes, the Japanese were once again obsessed with safety so the hazards operate independently from the normal turn signals. The former are flashed by the small flasher relay inside the right side of the front fairing (US version), while the big one on the left just connects both sides together and cuts power to the "normal" flasher relay. The latter are flashed by the relay under the right side cover which includes the auto-cancel magic. Schematic is below (and in hi-res):

http://gallery.dexter.linux360.ro/d/19355-2/4xy-81950-00-00.png

1x 5EA-81950-00-00: this is the combined SCCR and fuel pump relay, also a custom part by Omron (G8R-30Y-J 05Z8D2). The inside schematic and detailed functionality of this one is explained in the service manual and electrical diagram on this site so I won't repeat everything already known here.

 

Now, along with the lucky bag of relays, I also got myself a front (inside cowling) wiring harness to play with (credits go to PinWall Cycle for having a very good selection of 2nd hand parts). After carefully examining it, the truth was revealed: as strange/funny as it seems, Yamaha chose to move the flasher relay between the US and EU versions The US one has it in the front cowling while the EU one hides it behind the right side cover. This can only lead to the conclusion that the auto-cancel relay is indeed behind the right side cover on the US version -- please accept my apologies for the earlier confusion.

 

The missing part of the puzzle is therefore:

4NK-83350-00-00: the signal auto-cancel relay, a custom part by Denso (FB257H/066500-4120). OEM MSRP is a bit over 100USD and it can be found on eBay for as low as half that. To add insult to injury, there's many versions of the FB257H, only differing in the last four digits of the P/N (the 4120 above). For example, the Yamaha V-Stars use the -4660 while the Kawasaki Vulcans use the -4890. Those digits seem to encode the particulars of the auto-cancel signal input as different bikes will either use a reed switch triggered by the mechanical speedometer or a Hall-effect speed sensor like on the RSV. Also, on some bikes this is a full-fledged flasher + auto-cancel relay while on the RSV it only does the auto-cancel part. This is the part I need ... time to go shopping :-)

 

Until next time,

@Dexter

 

P.S. Apologies for correcting myself twice so far, as I get my hands on OEM parts and I can reverse-engineer them, the information I have comes closer and closer to the truth. I blame Yamaha for not publishing proper documentation, not even in their OEM service manual

Edited November 9, 2013 by csdexter
Updated with new information

[IronMike]

And if you tell them, they will continue to sell the incomplete kit with stuff you do not need I might add to confuse you. When I told them someone had figured it out, they said we will look into it and then decide about refunding your money, and seconds later I got a text from the bank they had stolen my money.