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Emergency Ignition Switch Repair


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FAULTY IGNITION SWITCH

Temporary Repair

 

A few weeks back I stopped for gas, and when I turned the key on there was no electrical power, except for the radio. There was no lights on the dash, no headlights, or any other power, except for the radio. After checking all the fuses, which were okay, it was suggested the ignition switch could be the problem.

 

To get to the ignition switch wires you will have to remove the seat and the top cover by the key (two Allen head bolts), and then remove the Fuel tank, by first removing the breather tube on the top of the tank, the electrical connection and the fuel line (under the tank). There are two Allen head bolts at the front on each side of the tank, and one bolt near the seat, before you can remove the Fuel tank. After removing the fuel tank there are two plastic covers on each side of the switch, which are held on by a small Phillips head screw and a plastic plug.

 

http://www.venturerider.org/switch/image001.jpg

 

Referring to the manual, Section 8 page 2 stated that switches could be tested for continuity. The manual states, on the main switch there should be continuity between the brown/blue wire and the red, and between the blue/yellow and blue/black wires, when the switch is turned on. I used a multi meter and started checking the wires for continuity. This should be done on the backside of the plug, to prevent damage to the plug connections. I found that I had continuity between the Blue/Yellow Wire and the Blue/Black Wires, however I did not have continuity on the Brown/Blue Wire and the Red wires. I used a 10-gauge wire and inserted it on the backside of the plug between the Brown/Blue Wire and the Red wires and then I had power on the dash and fuel pump started clicking. Therefore, I spliced the Red wire and the Brown/blue wires and connected a 10-gauge wire to the spliced ignition switch wires. I ran this new 10-gauge wire to the handlebars and connected these to a 50-amp single pole toggle switch, which I taped to the handlebars. Please note the 50-amp switch is most likely much larger than required.

 

http://www.venturerider.org/switch/image003.jpg

 

http://www.venturerider.org/switch/image005.jpg

New Switch

 

http://www.venturerider.org/switch/image007.jpg

Wires (on new switch)

 

http://www.venturerider.org/switch/image009.jpg

 

When there is no continuity between the Brown/Blue wire and the red wire there will be no power, except for the radio. These wires close the circuit to the main fuse, battery, starter relay, starter motor, and the Start Switches (including the clutch, neutral, side stand, and stop switches).

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  • 2 months later...
Guest Venture 2000

I read where the bolts had to be cut off to get the switch out. Is there any other way? I have to get my switch replaced and can't get those bolts out!!

Chris

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I read where the bolts had to be cut off to get the switch out. Is there any other way? I have to get my switch replaced and can't get those bolts out!!

Chris

 

Chris take a look at this thread http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=2628

post #9 and you can see I had to cut a slot in the bolt heads to get the bolts out.

I ended up cutting the weld nuts off the bottom as they were still very tight. I used a Dremmel tool and a cut off blade.

 

Brad

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Guest Venture 2000

Brad:

Thanks for the info. I couldn't understand how and why they got these bolts in in the first place. This has helped me and now I guess I start cutting...

Chris

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  • 2 weeks later...

Chris mine just stopped working. Stopped for gas and when I turned it the key there was nothing but the radio.

 

Not sure the part number but the one I saw on Ebay that said it was for a Venture would not fit our bikes. I believe it was for a Tour Deluxe, which are not the same.

 

Brad

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