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2nd Gen swingarm


Papa Fred

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Greetings from the soon-to-be snowless Great White North.  I'm looking for information on things to look for with respect to the correct operation of the swingarm on my 2000 RSV.  I'll be pulling the wheels in the next few days for new rubber and wheel bearings, and while the rear is out of the way I want to check the swingarm.  Are there specific things to check?  If so...what and how?  I believe I've read (here or ?) that the swingarm has no grease fittings, which suggests to me it has to be removed to get at the bearings.  How complicated is that operation? 

Brief background on my mechanical "skills".  I do my own general maintenance including replacing brake pads, new clutch discs, new stator, installing an electronic fuel pump...general "keep it running" stuff. I've also replaced the rear shock with a rebuilt from Dave Fitzgerald and had the rear end apart when I replaced the stock diff with a VMax drive (thank you John Furber) so I've had most of the parts out of the way before.  I figured I'd dig into the swingarm this time with the tire out of the way.

There's no particular reason for my concern, just a question since I don't know the maintenance history of the bike.  I purchased the bike in 2017 from a, shall we say, Non-Metric V-Twin Dealer who took the bike in on trade from the original owner.  He had looked after it really well, but I received no historical paperwork from the dealer.

I looked thru the Tech Forums and couldn't find anything other than brief references to the lack of grease from the factory.  Any guidance would be helpful and appreciated. 

Thanks...

 

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I repack the swingarm bearings every 20,000 miles.  Same for steering head bearings.  With the work you have done so far going after the swingarm bearings should within your abilities 

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No special skills required on your part, just look at it and take it out piece by piece. Before you take it out check for any play, but you will to unload the shock from the swing arm to do that. If there is no play then the bearings should be good and only need to be cleaned and greased. You can also drill and tap for grease fittings and save yourself trouble down the road. Just be sure that the fittings point to a place where you can get at them.

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Thanks for the replies, Gary & Carl.

I was thinking it might be just remove parts till you find the target, while taking pictures to remember where it all goes back.  One additional question if I may...are the swingarm bearings a "sealed" style of needle bearing where you just smear grease on the inner pivoting part, or would they be like older style car wheel bearings that let you pack grease in from the side?  I'll find out by getting them out, but thought I'd ask.

Appreciate the tip on the steering head bearings, Gary.  Hadn't really given them much thought, even tho I have played with the adjustment a bit over the years.  That looked like a bit more of a job to get at....guess I chickened out from the thought of hanging the bike from the rafters while I tried to pull the forks out. 😬

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Thanks, Ron... I had found the procedure in an on-line Service Manual and had just printed that off when your msg came thru.  When I read thru The VR version I saw where the torque for the right side bolt is only 5.1 ft/lbs....the service manual states the torque on the right side bolt is 51 ft/lbs.  Bit of a difference.  Any thoughts on which would be correct?  While I thought the 5.1 might have been about right for a bolt with a locknut, on further thinking it seems to be pretty light for a swingarm bolt...given that the left one is 72 ft/lbs.  ??

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Growing up on a farm in southern Manitoba , I had no choice but get out the tool box and get to it ...My dad kept on telling me that he was not going to buy any implements new and for sure not trucks either ...I had just turned 14 and we were in the harvest season ( September )  and he tells that he a just bought a larger truck from another farmer and that they would bring down in the afternoon ...I was waiting to see the edition to list of trucks , no one was coming ..A couple of hours later I hear a John Deere  tractor coming down the road , and it pulls into our driveway  pulling the truck , and talk to guy and ask why is he pulling it and he answers because it does not run ... I go to my dad tell him and says to me , I know ..That is where you come , and you should get to it we need the truck by tonight ... I learned growing up to figure it out and do it ..  

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I too am a Southern Manitoba boy, and over the past several decades have learned much from, as you say "figuring it out".  One of the many valuable lessons I learned working on my own vehicles is to ask questions...hence the above thread.  I have figured out many things on my Toy by taking stuff apart, but before turning wrenches I like to have at least a bit of an idea of what I'm likely to encounter so I don't end up with a bunch of parts and tools on the floor while our limited riding season disappears waiting for something I needed and should have had before starting.  My experience has taught me that I like to see the road before beginning a trip.  That has served me well in repairs as well as a 1/4 century of Long Haul driving.

One way of getting at least a close idea of the correct torque value for the swingarm bolt (aside from talking to my dealer) would be to gently use my torque wrench to loosen the bolt.  If it needs more than 40 or so lbs of pressure, I guess I could assume (there's that word) that it indeed requires the 51 ft/lbs, not 5.1. 

Instead of paying large money for the dealer to do it I'll sort it out one way or another.  Thanks for the input gang.

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I always try to have at least two different sources of technical data. I.e., the factory service manual and a Haynes or Chiltons manual. You'd be surprized by how many mistakes and typos there are in factory service manuals. I'm fairly certain that one of the Venture Yamaha Factory Service Manuals has the carb sync procedure wrong. Or it might have been the valve clearance check procedure, anyway, what ever!

Edited by luvmy40
Fixed a couple of my own typos
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Yep, definitely agree with you on some of the information found in the "expert" manuals.  Sometimes it's kinda like paperwork..if some is good, more must be better.  Maybe.  Another option is to follow The Rule of 3-2-1...get 3 opinions, if 2 match, 1 should stop thinking.   (unless it's about tires or oil)

Cheers...

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