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This is how SHINKO 777 tires are made.


Du-Rron

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23 minutes ago, Pasta Burner said:

Very cool!  I don’t have anything to compare to but I’m really enjoying the 777 on my 87.

I like them on my '07, but am about to put my third rear on to one front, which has 11k miles on it.  What's the trick to getting more than 5-6k out of the rear 777 tires?  Higher pressure?

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1 hour ago, circa1968 said:

I like them on my '07, but am about to put my third rear on to one front, which has 11k miles on it.  What's the trick to getting more than 5-6k out of the rear 777 tires?  Higher pressure?

I couldn’t begin to tell you, I don’t think I have more than 3k on them.

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4 hours ago, N3FOL said:

When I’m on my RSV, I rely on my 777s.   I think I have close to 10K miles on my rear tire and it still has a lot of miles left.   Nice video.   

What's your secret for getting 10k miles on the rear?  I got just over 5k on my first one and closing in on 6k on 2nd one & its just about at the wear indicator.   What tire pressure do you run?  Thanks

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@circa1968 I run the pressure indicated on the sticker, for my 87 that’s 32 front and 40 rear. (I don’t intend on opening the endless debate on the fact that the sticker info was engineered with oem tires therefore it’s invalid blah blah blah…). The sticker is a good guideline IMO and it hasn’t done me wrong yet on any vehicle.  
 

where are your tires showing wear?  That could be a good indication of the cause.

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Thanks @Pasta Burner I had also been following the spec for my Venture, 36 front/rear for my weight.  After my first rear tire wore out after 5k miles, I thought maybe I was underestimating my additional cargo weight, so went up to 40 rear.   I have the Fobo sensors and it started shrieking at me when my rear tire hit 49PSI.  I was in the middle of nowhere in the middle of NV when that happened, so pulled over and let a few psi out, then kept it at 38 cold, from there.  BTW, what is considered acceptable, or safe max psi when the tires are hot?

Wear is in the middle of the tire.  Perhaps doing longish days of 3-500 miles/day and going a tad, or 30-40 tads, over the speed limit, are factors as well.... I love the ride and feel of 777's, but want to figure out how to get more miles out of the rear.  If the answer is slowing down and shorter days, I guess I will have to consider that.  

Have been trying to find info on what the max hot pressure could hit & still be considered safe, but not having any luck.  Everything I read stresses the danger of pressure being too low. 

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2 hours ago, circa1968 said:

Thanks @Pasta Burner I had also been following the spec for my Venture, 36 front/rear for my weight.  After my first rear tire wore out after 5k miles, I thought maybe I was underestimating my additional cargo weight, so went up to 40 rear.   I have the Fobo sensors and it started shrieking at me when my rear tire hit 49PSI.  I was in the middle of nowhere in the middle of NV when that happened, so pulled over and let a few psi out, then kept it at 38 cold, from there.  BTW, what is considered acceptable, or safe max psi when the tires are hot?

Wear is in the middle of the tire.  Perhaps doing longish days of 3-500 miles/day and going a tad, or 30-40 tads, over the speed limit, are factors as well.... I love the ride and feel of 777's, but want to figure out how to get more miles out of the rear.  If the answer is slowing down and shorter days, I guess I will have to consider that.  

Have been trying to find info on what the max hot pressure could hit & still be considered safe, but not having any luck.  Everything I read stresses the danger of pressure being too low. 

Consider:

The faster you spin the tire the more it will stretch out, so the rounder it gets, and the less contact patch.

Max psi on the side wall is posted in conjunction with the load bearing rate, also on the side of the tire. Also the speed rating is on the side of the tire.

Wear on the treads indicates the amount of contact patch mostly used.

IMHO:

The pressure indicated along with the other numbers helps one figure out what pressure should be used, so if your are only loading to half the specified rating the pressure can be reduced to maintain a contact patch that is at a safe and operable range. You can't go half pressure for half load though for when you reduce pressure then more spec's come into play such as heat and flexibility. I have been informed that it is never a good idea to over pressurize a tire because as you use them heat builds up and may then rise to a higher amount than what the tire was designed for and cause failure. Hot pressure is never mentioned because that can be very variable, so measure cold and run with it, but stay below the speed rating.

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@Marcarl Thank you for that kick to go learn something!!

My manual says use a 74H rated tire, which is rated as 827lbs of load & 130MPH.  The Shinko 777HD is rated 80H, for 992lbs of load.  Manual also says 41psi for load of 198-419lbs.   Shinko 777HD spec says Max load @42PSI.

I weigh 155, add 12 lbs for helmet, boots & jacket get's me to 167. 

I will be weighing the rest of my cargo on next trip, but I'm most likely right at, or just over, that 198lbs for total load.  Looks like I should be setting the rear to 41psi and safe to do so!

Thank you!  And once again, best spent $12 ever!

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3 hours ago, circa1968 said:

@Marcarl Thank you for that kick to go learn something!!

My manual says use a 74H rated tire, which is rated as 827lbs of load & 130MPH.  The Shinko 777HD is rated 80H, for 992lbs of load.  Manual also says 41psi for load of 198-419lbs.   Shinko 777HD spec says Max load @42PSI.

I weigh 155, add 12 lbs for helmet, boots & jacket get's me to 167. 

I will be weighing the rest of my cargo on next trip, but I'm most likely right at, or just over, that 198lbs for total load.  Looks like I should be setting the rear to 41psi and safe to do so!

Thank you!  And once again, best spent $12 ever!

So now that you have all that info, dig deeper. Accurately measure your tread in 3 places around  the tire, center and sides. Write it down and maybe even mark the tire were you measured so that down the road you know exactly where to measure again. Sometime from now, re-measure and see what that tells you what the contact patch is. That might come into play as well.

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Interesting to see assembly of the tire ...I am more familiar withe Dunlop tires , only thing I have found is to buy the higher grade of the Dunlop ..the Elite series ....I got 28000 miles on the Elite series on my XV1100 Virago , only thing they are expensive  ...Now that I have switched to 83 venture 1200 I am not sure what make of tire I will be running in 2022 
 

 

 

 

 

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On 1/23/2022 at 12:26 PM, circa1968 said:

What's your secret for getting 10k miles on the rear?  I got just over 5k on my first one and closing in on 6k on 2nd one & its just about at the wear indicator.   What tire pressure do you run?  Thanks

The secret is simple.  I am always easy on the throttle ever since I've had my 777 installed and religiously keep my rear pressure at 40 psi.  I expect my front tire will last almost twice as long as my rear or at least close to 16K - hopefully.  

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As mentioned a lot of variables go into tire wear as do certain trade offs. The pressure stated on the tire is the max load the tire can take at its max pressure. The bike manufactures tire pressure is the recommended tire pressure for that specific bike based on what the manufacture considers would be an average load or weight place upon the tire. One can vary on the pressure based on what he is carrying. Constant highway driving and at what speeds or constant twisty's   also effect how a tire wears. Measuring the tread depth across the face of the tire is the best way to judge if the pressure in your tire is right for your style of riding. For example if you do mostly highway riding and the tire shows more wear on the sides than in the middle you need to raise your tire pressure (NOTE too low pressure also causes more side wall flex creating more internal friction in the tire casing raising tire temperature and premature tire failure ). If the tire shows more wear in the middle than your pressure is too high for your situation. This also creates less contact area between tire and road surface. adding to excessive tie wear mostly down the middle of the tread.

Another thing to consider is the fact that in most cases (and there are exceptions ) that tires that wear faster generally have better road grip due to softer compound versus tires that produce higher wear miles. I have run dunlop E3 and E4's through my last several tire changes and got amazing millage out of them. BUT I always ended up changing them before the tread were down to the wear indicators, because once they reached a certain point they became slippery in the corners. So if your doing a lot of twisty roads I would probably stick to the 777's But if your primarily doing straight highway driving specially two up and/or with extra payload I would recomend giving the E4's a try. 

Edited by saddlebum
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1 hour ago, saddlebum said:

As mentioned a lot of variables go into tire wear as do certain trade offs. The pressure stated on the tire is the max load the tire can take at 1st max pressure. The bike manufactures tire pressure is the recommended tire pressure for that specific bike based on what the manufacture considers would be an average load or weight place upon the tire. one can vary on the pressure based on what he is carrying. Constant highway driving and at what speeds or constant twisty's   also effect how a tire wears. Measuring the tread depth across the face of the tire is the best way to judge if the pressure in your tire is right for your style of riding. I wear for example you do mostly highway riding and the tire shows more wear the side than in the middle you need to raise your tire pressure (NOTE too low pressure also causes more side wall flex creating more internal friction in the tire casing raising tire temperature and premature tire failure ). If the tire shows more wear in the middle than your pressure is too high for your situation. This also creates less contact area between tire and road surface. adding to excessive tie wear mostly down the middle of the tread.

Another thing to consider is the fact that in most cases (and there are exceptions ) that tires that wear faster generally have better road grip due to softer compound versus tires that produce higher wear miles. I have run dunlop E3 and E4's through my last several tire changes and got amazing millage out of them. BUT I always ended up changing them before the tread were down to the wear indicators, because once they reached a certain point they became slippery in the corners. So if your doing a lot of twisty roads I would probably stick to the 777's But if your primarily doing straight highway driving specially two up and/or with extra payload I would recomend giving the E4's a try. 

Add to all that, if you lower the pressure because you ride all highway you might find that very comfortable until you decide on a whim to do a twisty or two and find out that the rear gets squirrely,,, yep, now you have too low a pressure for that exercise.,,,, so somewhere in-between maybe??? always a bit of a guessing game.

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  • 1 month later...
1 hour ago, baylensman said:

SO IT THE 777 still the hot lick for our bikes? going back to the office post covid, so i need to get the bike ready.

 

Of course I use the 777.  I like the way it rides, and it doesn't "sing-moan" in the corners like some other tires.

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3 hours ago, Du-Rron said:

Of course I use the 777.  I like the way it rides, and it doesn't "sing-moan" in the corners like some other tires.

I ran Shinkos on my 83, that singing and moaning, if I ever got it, it was always time to recheck air pressure and they where typically low, just my experience. I'll probably run Bridegstone tires on my F6B though. expensive...

 

Side note:  I hear there are several tire delays going on, be smart, if you know you'll need them, start doing your homework and order now.

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