1986 Yamaha Venture Royale

[Karaboo]

Just a reminder, the bike will probably start, but won't rev or drive without the air filter and cover in place.

[YoungWayne]

Any recommendations on how I should clean the air filter housing? There's a bunch of debris, I'm just using a moist rag 

[luvmy40]

Best bet is to take it off and clean it up with hot water and dish detergent(Dawn) or Simple Green, Puprple power, etc.

 

You want to take a look at the breather hose anyway.

[YoungWayne]

3 hours ago, luvmy40 said:

Best bet is to take it off and clean it up with hot water and dish detergent(Dawn) or Simple Green, Puprple power, etc.

 

You want to take a look at the breather hose anyway.

Thanks, I think I was able to see how to take the box off.

My gas tank wasn't opening, I was able to turn the key about 1/4 turn, but I wasn't able to twist the cap off, and I'm not sure how the gas cap is supposed to twist off, any suggestions? 

[Tysons87venture]

Push down while turning key maybe? Could be seized up from sitting so long

[Tysons87venture]

Might have to lubricate in the key slot maybe the key isnt fully disengaging

[Tysons87venture]

Also with key turned it should lift up, I will double check mine but I believe that's how she comes out, I would think id know with how much gas mine is burning lol. And the other guys are right you are gonna want to fully remove the air box, give it a good clean down and keep working your way to he carb and see if you can get them all cleaned up, judging by the picture there I could only imagine you will have some pluged jets and passageways

 

[Pasta Burner]

@YoungWayne as @Tysons87venture mentions the cap comes straight off, it doesn’t twist.  I’ve lubricated mine several times and always starts to dry out and get stiff again.  Lubricate the key hole and once you get it off hit the latch and gasket too.  So turning the key will disengage the latch from the filler neck to pull off the cap.  The latch faces port and there is a key way toward the bow.  Mine needs two hands to go back on hence the struggle, I turn the key with one hand and align the key way with the other.  It’s too stiff to just press in place.

[saddlebum]

 

Quote

Ouch I hope you did not turn the engine over yet.

@YoungWaynetake a vacuum cleaner or better a shop vac to it before you remove the housing or disturb anything else. Then carefully remove the housing as suggested and wash well. if you have a small enough nozzle try to suck what you can from the carbs. Another thing you can do, is remove the plugs, then slowly rotate the engine by hand. If you look up valve set in the manual it will show you how to rotate by hand. Rotate until you have a cylinder on its intake stroke (intake valve should be open ) then with the carb in wide open throttle position, blast compressed air into the spark plug hole you should feel air coming up through its connected carb. The idea here is to blast out as much dirt as possible back up and out through the carb. Repeat for each cylinder. Then after doing this rotate until the exhaust is open and blast air through it again (you should feel air coming out the exhaust). The idea here is to blast out as much grit as possible. What you do not want is grit residing in the cylinders and  causing undo wear on the  the cylinder and pistons. Although if you already attempted tarting it or doing a compression test this may be of small use by now but still cannot hurt. . Personally I am surprised someone would store a bike with no filter or at least some form of cover over the carbs.

Edited July 16, 2021 by saddlebum

[YoungWayne]

43 minutes ago, saddlebum said:

 

Ouch I hope you did not turn the engine over yet.

@YoungWaynetake a vacuum cleaner or better a shop vac to it before you remove the housing or disturb anything else. Then carefully remove the housing as suggested and wash well. if you have a small enough nozzle try to suck what you can from the carbs. Another thing you can do, is remove the plugs, then slowly rotate the engine by hand. If you look up valve set in the manual it will show you how to rotate by hand. Rotate until you have a cylinder on its intake stroke (intake valve should be open ) then with the carb in wide open throttle position, blast compressed air into the spark plug hole you should feel air coming up through its connected carb. The idea here is to blast out as much dirt as possible back up and out through the carb. Repeat for each cylinder. Then after doing this rotate until the exhaust is open and blast air through it again (you should feel air coming out the exhaust). The idea here is to blast out as much grit as possible. What you do not want is grit residing in the cylinders and  causing undo wear on the  the cylinder and pistons. Although if you already attempted tarting it or doing a compression test this may be of small use by now but still cannot hurt. . Personally I am surprised someone would store a bike with no filter or at least some form of cover over the carbs.

Luckily I haven't even tried to turn her over yet, I don't have a battery. Thank you for the suggestion, I will try to find a vacuum. 

It sounds like the carbs are located underneath those 4 cylinder looking things, and under those the pistons? I will definitely be trying to clear as much dust from here

[RDawson]

2 hours ago, YoungWayne said:

Luckily I haven't even tried to turn her over yet, I don't have a battery. Thank you for the suggestion, I will try to find a vacuum. 

It sounds like the carbs are located underneath those 4 cylinder looking things, and under those the pistons? I will definitely be trying to clear as much dust from here

Those are the cabs. The air box clamps directly to the carb bodies. 

[saddlebum]

2 hours ago, YoungWayne said:

Luckily I haven't even tried to turn her over yet, I don't have a battery. Thank you for the suggestion, I will try to find a vacuum. 

It sounds like the carbs are located underneath those 4 cylinder looking things, and under those the pistons? I will definitely be trying to clear as much dust from here

If you can blow into the spark plug holes while holding the vacuum hose to the top of that cylinders carb. if you fortunate enough you might even be able to clamp the hose depending on size of hose to were the air box was clamped. shop vacs are great for this because you can get very size hose adapters or get the rubber pipe adapters from the plumbing section in any hardware store.

[YoungWayne]

Replaced the front tire, manual said to make sure the torque converter was positive the right way. It's hard to tell in the picture, but is this the correct way this little valve thing should be?

[Squidley]

11 hours ago, YoungWayne said:

Replaced the front tire, manual said to make sure the torque converter was positive the right way. It's hard to tell in the picture, but is this the correct way this little valve thing should be?

No, you're 180 degrees out, that is the speedometer housing that the cable hooks into.

[YoungWayne]

On 7/21/2021 at 5:00 AM, Squidley said:

No, you're 180 degrees out, that is the speedometer housing that the cable hooks into.

Thank you now I remember undoing that cable. 

Any ideas on how to compress the pistons on the brake caliper? I can't seem to find a way to get them down

Edited July 23, 2021 by YoungWayne

[SpencerPJ]

Might not be the best way, but I slide my old school brake adjustment tool (or prybar, screwdriver), but anyways, I'd put the caliber and loose brake shoes back over the rotor and use the rotor and brake shoes as my pivot point.  Actually I do this before I even take the old ones out. I'm sure they also make a tool to spread them, maybe AutoZone loans one out?

 

[luvmy40]

You really need to clean those pistons befor compressing them. I just use a piece of wood that fits and a couple c clamps.

[saddlebum]

I usually use a c-clamp or channel lock pliers using mild force, after first cleaning and coating with brake fluid.

If they are  difficult to compress than they may need to be popped out cleaned and new seals put in. keep in mind the excessive effort it takes to squeeze the pistons back in is also additional effort required to apply the brakes. As well they may not fully retract when the brakes are released causing brake drag. When rebuilding the calipers they do not recommend splitting the calipers in two. I generally do anyway though it is not necessary and the proper size and thickness  o-rings that go between the halves may be hard to find.

Edited July 23, 2021 by saddlebum

[YoungWayne]

32 minutes ago, saddlebum said:

I usually use a c-clamp or channel lock pliers using mild force, after first cleaning and coating with brake fluid.

If they are  difficult to compress than they may need to be popped out cleaned and new seals put in. keep in mind the excessive effort it takes to squeeze the pistons back in is also additional effort required to apply the brakes. As well they may not fully retract when the brakes are released causing brake drag. When rebuilding the calipers they do not recommend splitting the calipers in two. I generally do anyway though it is not necessary and the proper size and thickness  o-rings that go between the halves may be hard to find.

Where do you apply the brake fluid? Just as a lubricant to get the pistons to move easier?

I saw in the manual it says something along the lines of applying air to the brake bleed valve, and the pistons will pop out, does anyone have experience with this? I'll try cleaning and using a c clamp first. 

[Squidley]

2 minutes ago, YoungWayne said:

Where do you apply the brake fluid? Just as a lubricant to get the pistons to move easier?

I saw in the manual it says something along the lines of applying air to the brake bleed valve, and the pistons will pop out, does anyone have experience with this? I'll try cleaning and using a c clamp first. 

My number is in my profile, give me a call if you get a chance. 

[saddlebum]

1 hour ago, YoungWayne said:

Where do you apply the brake fluid? Just as a lubricant to get the pistons to move easier?

I saw in the manual it says something along the lines of applying air to the brake bleed valve, and the pistons will pop out, does anyone have experience with this? I'll try cleaning and using a c clamp first. 

I apply the brake fluid to the outside of the pistons after cleaning as best I can and before pushing them back in to give the pistons some lubrication so they slide in easier (only use brake fluid other lubricants can swell the rubbers). This is only if I do not intend on rebuilding the caliper and intend only on pushing the pistons back in and reinstalling calipers as they are.

Applying air to the brake bleed valve is only if you want to pop the pistons right out, and replace the seals after cleaning pistons and bores. in which case at this point you would have removed the calipers completely from the bike and now have them on the work bench. generally I keep the bleed valve closed and apply the air to were the brake line was attached. place a thin piece of wood were the disc pads sit or set in an old disc pad than slowly apply air until the pistons pop out. A rag covering the caliper and air line during this process helps avoid getting brake fluid in your eyes.

[saddlebum]

1 hour ago, Squidley said:

My number is in my profile, give me a call if you get a chance. 

Hey Brad I am not sure if trial members have access to member profiles.

[Squidley]

1 minute ago, saddlebum said:

Hey Brad I am not sure if trial members have access to member profiles.

I was going to call him, but his profile doesn't have his number in it. 

[luvmy40]

Be very careful when using comresed air to extract brake caliper pistons. They can move quickly with extreme force. You could easily lose a finger if you are not careful.

[saddlebum]

14 minutes ago, luvmy40 said:

Be very careful when using comresed air to extract brake caliper pistons. They can move quickly with extreme force. You could easily lose a finger if you are not careful.

And this is why I said slowwwly apply air. .....Oh and I guess won't hurt to keep your finger out of the way ..... cause it will hurt if you don't.

Edited July 24, 2021 by saddlebum