Bad head gasket?

[Tysons87venture]

What a great trick patch!! Lots of vacuum damn near sucked my hand in lol

[Patch]

Good that tells us the valves are mating to the seats well. So, now its a matter of soak and going thru the carbs. Let the club know when you're ready to open up the carbs.

I'll check in when I have time but have a couple busy weeks ahead then I'll be on a trip for a while.

Have fun dude

[Tysons87venture]

Ok so I cant get a reading on cylinder 1 for carb sync. I still have abit of splatter out of my exhaust pipes but not nearly as bad as I closed my air fuel mix screws on the 3 of 4 cars that I can adjust.

Does anyone know what would cause me not to be able to get a reading on the 1 cylinder?

 

I have verified it is not the carbtune

[luvmy40]

it could be as simple as the port on the intake boot being clogged/blocked. It could be the carb is not seated in the intake boot. Any large leak after the carb. etc.

[Patch]

Not sure why you are trying to synce the carbs, the engine should be soaking.

 

[Tysons87venture]

Soaked over night and ran today for 20 minutes, replaced oil and filter, should I have waited longer? Bike seems to be running good aside from the carbs being out of whack, I dialed in the ir fuel screws to lean it out, I think the 2-1/2 turns I did originally might have been 5 turns out depending whether we could 180 degrees as 1 turn or 360

[Patch]

Lets put some order to finishing up.

1st: can't sync until you can run the engine, pull the plugs and see that they are not wet

2nd: if you used deepcreep it will not flash upon combustion; is why I use it

3rd: I was under the impression you were going to check the fueling circuits of the carb? So lets work some myths out: syncing is just aperture setting as in equalizing air volumes passing thru the carb venturi. We can only sync when we have confidence in the carbs as a whole. 

When carbs go back together they should be first bench synced then set the pilots to a starting position less than 2 turns. When the engine has warm to operating temp then you first dial in the pilot jets till you see an increase in rpm, each time you achieve this you move to the next pilot. Once they have all gone thru that then return to the first pilot and turn slowly till you see an increase again, then you tighten that pilot 1/8 to 1/4 in, then repeat till all 4 are done.

Then you can sync not before. Remember on a motorcycle you are not syncing for pilots or idle, you sync for throttle. On a CV carb that means venturi is at play smoothly or fed smoothly as the scale of velocity and volume increase. (think about it) 

The only other active system after you've tuned them is ignition timing unlike fuel inject that monitors results and can adjust itself. What that means is that CV carbs are as close as carbs can get to fuel injection, is why most people do understand them and come out with nutty ideas and myths

As for longer soaks maybe, maybe not, are your cylinders dry enough to check compression? What happen when compression results are off or to different to one another? Can we expect the carbs to correct or ignore the issues? I know what Mikuni thinks about it.

[Tysons87venture]

Thanks for all the knowledge you guys have shared!! I am much closer then I was and you guys have helped me so much, I forgot to do another compression check so I will be doing that soon

[Tysons87venture]

Only thing I noticed when I pulled apart is the cheap rubber parts that I got with the cheap rebuilt set I bought. I did  real poor job at bench syncing and couldnt even get 1 cylinder to show up on gauge, I played for about 40 minutes and got it all dialed in.

Thanks to another discussion that someone else had brought up in the threads on this site, so thankful for this site and everyone associated with it. I've learned so much and finally should be able to ride the bike safely. Hoping this season is nice and will look into valves and valve covers this winter, hopefully the cleaners and soak was enough to help increase compression for now

[luffrr]

I am struggling with the same issue on a 2008 RSV with 24K miles.  It overheated in the Tucson heat about a month ago. I found the radiator fan switch to be defective. When I opened the radiator cap I was surprised to find a light, brown oily sludge in the system. Upon researching the this issue there are several possibilities: (1) Water pump oil seal; (2) The mysterious "Twinkie." or (3) Engine head gasket.  I understand that the engine is robust and the head gasket is not the usual culprit. I focused on (1).  I removed the water pump and found a questionable oil seal. I purchased the parts from PartZilla for $84. I then rebuilt the pump and thoroughly flushed the system with a radiator cleaner.  I went through several flushes until the drained coolant was clear.  I then put in new coolant and figured it was fixed.  As an additional safety I added a toggle switch in parallel with a new thermal fan switch so I could manually turn on the radiator fan.  Last weekend I took a ride to Phoenix with my son. The ambient temperature was a toasty 106F. The bike did not overheat, but when refueling my son said he saw a small puddle of brown goo under my bike.  The radiator reservoir under the seat again had the brown oily sludge in it.  

Now I am focused on (2):  The mysterious "Twinkie" is a manifold located under the carburetor assembly and above the V of the cylinders. It is apparently a heat exchanger between the oil and coolant and also functions as a crankcase ventilation system.  There are two gaskets. One is under the unit and mates to the engine. The other is in-between the top and bottom cover of the unit. Failure of this gasket can cause oil to get into the coolant. Also a cracked cover(s) could also cause the same.  Refer to attached photos and documents for part numbers.  Since my 900-pound Japanese girlfriend (RSV) is much cheaper than a psychiatrist I decided to order a used Twinkie from Ebay and the two gaskets from PartZilla. I figure if my Twinkie is defective I can swap parts and minimize downtime.  I will let you know what happens.  Twinkie.txt 

[Squidley]

18 hours ago, luffrr said:

I am struggling with the same issue on a 2008 RSV with 24K miles.  It overheated in the Tucson heat about a month ago. I found the radiator fan switch to be defective. When I opened the radiator cap I was surprised to find a light, brown oily sludge in the system. Upon researching the this issue there are several possibilities: (1) Water pump oil seal; (2) The mysterious "Twinkie." or (3) Engine head gasket.  I understand that the engine is robust and the head gasket is not the usual culprit. I focused on (1).  I removed the water pump and found a questionable oil seal. I purchased the parts from PartZilla for $84. I then rebuilt the pump and thoroughly flushed the system with a radiator cleaner.  I went through several flushes until the drained coolant was clear.  I then put in new coolant and figured it was fixed.  As an additional safety I added a toggle switch in parallel with a new thermal fan switch so I could manually turn on the radiator fan.  Last weekend I took a ride to Phoenix with my son. The ambient temperature was a toasty 106F. The bike did not overheat, but when refueling my son said he saw a small puddle of brown goo under my bike.  The radiator reservoir under the seat again had the brown oily sludge in it.  

Now I am focused on (2):  The mysterious "Twinkie" is a manifold located under the carburetor assembly and above the V of the cylinders. It is apparently a heat exchanger between the oil and coolant and also functions as a crankcase ventilation system.  There are two gaskets. One is under the unit and mates to the engine. The other is in-between the top and bottom cover of the unit. Failure of this gasket can cause oil to get into the coolant. Also a cracked cover(s) could also cause the same.  Refer to attached photos and documents for part numbers.  Since my 900-pound Japanese girlfriend (RSV) is much cheaper than a psychiatrist I decided to order a used Twinkie from Ebay and the two gaskets from PartZilla. I figure if my Twinkie is defective I can swap parts and minimize downtime.  I will let you know what happens.  Twinkie.txt 

Thank you for posting the part numbers up, I need those gaskets for my 02