luvmy40 Posted May 2, 2021 Share #26 Posted May 2, 2021 (edited) 10 hours ago, vulcanb822 said: What am I securing the front end to with the tie down strap? Like Marcarl said, anything secure/heavy enough to keep the front end down while you work on the rear. I think I used a bucket of scrap metal last time I did this. Edited May 2, 2021 by luvmy40 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vulcanb822 Posted May 14, 2021 Author Share #27 Posted May 14, 2021 Well I finally got some time to work on the bike. Using all the useful information posted, I was able to get both wheels off. I don't know why I was so worried about not having enough clearance. Once I removed the from wheel, the rear wheel was way up in the air. I had some difficulty removing the cotter pin but ultimately was able to get it out. Also had some difficulty getting enough leverage and clearance to remove the final drive bolts. Tomorrow, a shop will mount and balance my new tires. Attached are some pictures. I am sure I will back asking questions when I am reinstalling the wheels. Thanks for all the good advice. I would not have gotten this far without it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vulcanb822 Posted July 5, 2021 Author Share #28 Posted July 5, 2021 Happy 4th to all. Finally got some time to get back to putting on my wheels. I got everything back on, started it up and the bike would not move. My guess is I screwed up something with the brakes. Any ideas or suggestions before I start taking the wheels off again? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marcarl Posted July 5, 2021 Share #29 Posted July 5, 2021 Did you loose the 'washer spacer' that sits inside and flush with the wheel? Did you install the large washer in the proper sequence? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpencerPJ Posted July 5, 2021 Share #30 Posted July 5, 2021 (edited) 11 hours ago, Marcarl said: Did you loose the 'washer spacer' that sits inside and flush with the wheel? Did you install the large washer in the proper sequence? This washer is what Marcarl is asking about Edited July 5, 2021 by SpencerPJ 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vulcanb822 Posted July 5, 2021 Author Share #31 Posted July 5, 2021 I went back and took off front wheel and then rear wheel. Replaced everything, making sure to put spacer in correct spot and wheel still does not move freely. It seems almost as if the brakes are on. Spencer, the amount of axle shown in your picture is when everything is torqued to specifications? My axle goes in past the holes in the axle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marcarl Posted July 5, 2021 Share #32 Posted July 5, 2021 1 hour ago, vulcanb822 said: I went back and took off front wheel and then rear wheel. Replaced everything, making sure to put spacer in correct spot and wheel still does not move freely. It seems almost as if the brakes are on. Spencer, the amount of axle shown in your picture is when everything is torqued to specifications? My axle goes in past the holes in the axle. I'm tinking you might be missing the spacer washer that sits inside the wheel hub then. Can you take some pictures for us? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vulcanb822 Posted July 6, 2021 Author Share #33 Posted July 6, 2021 Here are some pictures. I actually added a couple of washers in this picture just to see if it would help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDawson Posted July 6, 2021 Share #34 Posted July 6, 2021 37 minutes ago, vulcanb822 said: Here are some pictures. I actually added a couple of washers in this picture just to see if it would help. You don’t want the extra washers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marcarl Posted July 6, 2021 Share #35 Posted July 6, 2021 Looks like a missing spacer. Go back to the garage and see if it's laying around the tire machine somewhere, or in the vehicle you used to get it there. It looks like a really thick washer with an extra collar on it. The collar matches the spacer/bearing inside the wheel. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpencerPJ Posted July 6, 2021 Share #36 Posted July 6, 2021 13 hours ago, vulcanb822 said: Spencer, the amount of axle shown in your picture is when everything is torqued to specifications? Correct Here are a couple other pictures that might be of help, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vulcanb822 Posted July 7, 2021 Author Share #37 Posted July 7, 2021 I checked my garage and the back of my truck for the missing spacer. No luck. Went over to the shop that replaced the tires for me and the shop is closed this week with the owner on vacation. Since it's been so long (over two months) from when I had the tires replaced, I am doubtful the spacer is there. So, I ordered the spacer from a dealer. The dealer told me it would arrive in 4-5 business days. Hopefully I ordered the right part. (90387-200J2-00 COLLAR) Thanks to everyone for all the guidance and help so far. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vulcanb822 Posted July 25, 2021 Author Share #38 Posted July 25, 2021 Well, I found the spacer (mechanic found it and set it aside for me). With the spacer in place, got the wheel on and rolling freely. But now I have a new problem. When I go put the bike in gear, it cuts off. It seems that my clutch cable is out of adjustment. I have to have it fully in just to start it. Did I somehow get it out of adjustment during the wheel removal/installation process? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marcarl Posted July 25, 2021 Share #39 Posted July 25, 2021 3 minutes ago, vulcanb822 said: Well, I found the spacer (mechanic found it and set it aside for me). With the spacer in place, got the wheel on and rolling freely. But now I have a new problem. When I go put the bike in gear, it cuts off. It seems that my clutch cable is out of adjustment. I have to have it fully in just to start it. Did I somehow get it out of adjustment during the wheel removal/installation process? Try making sure that your kick stand is up and the switch is working Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vulcanb822 Posted July 25, 2021 Author Share #40 Posted July 25, 2021 Just confirmed that kick stand is up and light goes off when I put kick stand up. Shuts off immediately after putting it in gear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marcarl Posted July 25, 2021 Share #41 Posted July 25, 2021 3 hours ago, vulcanb822 said: Just confirmed that kick stand is up and light goes off when I put kick stand up. Shuts off immediately after putting it in gear. There is a switch attached to the kick stand that caused the bike to die if the kick stand is down and bike is in gear. Guess you know that anyways. Work the kickstand back and forth a few time, let it bang on the way up to see if the switch is maybe stuck. Can't think of anything else that might cause that to happen. There's no adjustment to the clutch and if there was it would not cause what you are describing. The clutch is hydrolic so can run out of fluid, but has no impact on engine running. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vulcanb822 Posted July 26, 2021 Author Share #42 Posted July 26, 2021 It seems like there is no play in the clutch lever. The lever touches the handlebar with no pressure whatsoever. It's almost like I am shifting without pulling in the clutch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDawson Posted July 26, 2021 Share #43 Posted July 26, 2021 30 minutes ago, vulcanb822 said: It seems like there is no play in the clutch lever. The lever touches the handlebar with no pressure whatsoever. It's almost like I am shifting without pulling in the clutch. Check fluid in the clutch reservoir, bleed it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marcarl Posted July 26, 2021 Share #44 Posted July 26, 2021 5 minutes ago, RDawson said: Check fluid in the clutch reservoir, bleed it. And clean it out like you are sanitizing it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vulcanb822 Posted July 26, 2021 Author Share #45 Posted July 26, 2021 The glass is a little cloudy but it looks like the fluid is low. As a check, I looked at the glass for the front brake and I can see the level move when I turn the handlebars. So tomorrow I will put some brake fluid in there. When you say clean it out like I am sanitizing, should I try to get out any existing fluid before adding fresh brake fluid? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDawson Posted July 26, 2021 Share #46 Posted July 26, 2021 I would suck out all you can, clean the reservoir, and flush new fluid through the whole system. Make sure no fluid gets on the plastic body parts, wash immediately if it does. Brake fluid melts ABS plastic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jayceesfolly Posted July 26, 2021 Share #47 Posted July 26, 2021 When replacing the fluid, note that there is a line on the outside of the reservoir that indicates the minimum level of the fluid. Also, turn the handlebars to make the reservoir level before filling. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marcarl Posted July 26, 2021 Share #48 Posted July 26, 2021 10 hours ago, vulcanb822 said: The glass is a little cloudy but it looks like the fluid is low. As a check, I looked at the glass for the front brake and I can see the level move when I turn the handlebars. So tomorrow I will put some brake fluid in there. When you say clean it out like I am sanitizing, should I try to get out any existing fluid before adding fresh brake fluid? I would suck out all the old fluid, then use brake clean to wash out the reservoir, and then do it again, all the corners and crevices. Dry it out with a clean cloth, gently blow some air to finish the drying and then add new fluid. Only fill to about the half-way mark. The system doesn't ever use any fluid so no need to fill it up to the top. If you do fill it full then you run the risk of having the fluid expand when it gets hot and then it will push the clutch plates apart. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vulcanb822 Posted August 8, 2021 Author Share #49 Posted August 8, 2021 Do I need to bleed the system? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vulcanb822 Posted August 8, 2021 Author Share #50 Posted August 8, 2021 Marcari, just saw your message to bleed it. What is the process to bleed it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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