larrydr Posted February 3, 2021 Share #1 Posted February 3, 2021 (edited) WHEN i BOUGHT THE 83 I knew that it would a bunch of work ..Which is fine ..but OIL OIL OIL ...I drained the oil to repair the clutch basket , new bushings . I have been running Castrol 20 - 50 in many a bike with wet a clutch ...After assembly changed the oil to Castrol 20 -- 50 ...Only to find the clutch does not want release as it did before ..Previous owner was running s synthetic 10- 30 .....Anyone else running synthetic ....I have been buying the Castrol diesel semi- 15-40 blend oil for years ..to run in everything that runs on my yard .. What is the best oil for the 83 XVZ12TDK Edited February 3, 2021 by larrydr Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squidley Posted February 3, 2021 Share #2 Posted February 3, 2021 As long as it's not an energy conserving oil, synthetic or conventional. I run 10w30 Mobil one in my RSV. I have run the Shell Rotella in several Ventures I've owned. 20w50 is a little heavy imo in any Venture. I do a 10w30 in the colder months and 10w40 in the Texas summer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larrydr Posted February 3, 2021 Author Share #3 Posted February 3, 2021 Have heard that worn plates in a wet clutch lose their ability to lube themselves Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marcarl Posted February 4, 2021 Share #4 Posted February 4, 2021 Could you describe what exactly you mean as to clutch releasing. Does it not release at all? does it only go partway? will the clutch handle squeeze all the way in? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larrydr Posted February 4, 2021 Author Share #5 Posted February 4, 2021 (edited) I drove up the lift and all was fine , except for the dirty oil ..I changed the oil and ran the engine till it was warmed till the temp gauge up all the way . The clutch was fine in all respects. Turned engine off , waited till the next day and started it up , and that the clutch would not release enough to put it into gear ....This makes no sense , I serviced engines anything from Deisel to big hotrods .....What don't understand is how an oil change can do this. Edited February 4, 2021 by larrydr Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
saddlebum Posted February 4, 2021 Share #6 Posted February 4, 2021 (edited) 1 hour ago, larrydr said: I drove up the lift and all was fine , except for the dirty oil ..I changed the oil and ran the engine till it was warmed till the temp gauge up all the way . The clutch was fine in all respects. Turned engine off , waited till the next day and started it up , and that the clutch would not release enough to put it into gear ....This makes no sense , I serviced engines anything from Deisel to big hotrods .....What don't understand is how an oil change can do this. When you put the clutch back together did you check to make sure the little ball #22 at the end of the push rod was still in place in case it fell out? Did you put the disc's back in in their proper positions ? the first disc to go in #7 in the diagram only has a partial friction face and is combined with a spacer, if you mixed this one up with one of the other disc's the overall pack becomes too thick and you have no release clearance. when this disc. is replaced with a full disc like some of us have done those spacer shims #5&6 and the wire retainer #4 are left out for this very reason. https://www.yamahasportsplaza.com/oemparts/a/yam/50042469f8700209bc787dfa/clutch Edited February 4, 2021 by saddlebum Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pro procrastinator Posted February 4, 2021 Share #7 Posted February 4, 2021 Ive had dirt bikes that would be very temperamental depending on the type and make of oil used. Not all friction modifiers are the same. Having said that, i agree with saddlebum about that ballbearing. That thing can disappear better then my pay cheque. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larrydr Posted February 4, 2021 Author Share #8 Posted February 4, 2021 I know the ball was back in place . The oil I used was Castrol SAE 20 - 50 ...Just checked the specs on the back of the battle and I did not see specs for use on a wet clutch .... I may switch to Lucas oil.....If it does not work in a couple of days , I will pull the clutch again ...The travel of the clutch plate is 5/16 of an inch when I pull the clutch lever ... I have a spare clutch basket and plates on hand . I have back wheel off and am trying to find a seal , no numbers on it so my normal part suppliers I use for my industrial parts cannot find me one . I will call Yamaha in Winnipeg tomorrow . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
saddlebum Posted February 4, 2021 Share #9 Posted February 4, 2021 Sometimes if you have the bearing numbers or the seal dimensions you can match up the seal or you can use the shaft and bore dimensions to look up a seal. https://www.skf.com/binaries/pub12/Images/0901d196807662c1-810-701_CRSeals_Handbook_Jan_2019_tcm_12-318140.pdf https://www.skfextranet.com/crsealsfinder/ https://www.timken.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/03/Timken-Small-Bore-Metric-Seals-Catalog_10951.pdf https://www.timken.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/National-Indust-Seals-Catalog_7707.pdf another option is to look up the seal number in the parts book https://www.yamahasportsplaza.com/oemparts/a/yam/5004246bf8700209bc787e03/drive-shaft and then do a google interchange search EG: 93102-70167-00 oil seal interchange Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Condor Posted February 11, 2021 Share #10 Posted February 11, 2021 As long as you didn't bleed the clutch and just messed with the basket there shouldn't be a problem with the clutch disengaging... Valvoline makes a wet clutch oil in 10-30 and 20-50. I ran 10-30 in the winter and 20-50 in the summer in my '83VR without a problem. On occasion I might have used Castrol 20-50 which is my oil of choice for all my rolling stock. When you mentioned that everything was OK when you tucked her in for the night and in the morning the clutch wouldn't work makes me think that any air in the lines worked it's way back up to the master and the hydralics when fubar....?? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now