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Helping engine gasket seal


frankd

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I've had problems with engine oil leaks from the left side of my 89 Venture for quite a while.      I modified an intermediate gear cover by cutting off the excess so I could see where the leak was.     Afterwards, I've replaced the o-ring in the gear indicator switch, and that took care of the leak from that area.   Also, I could plainly see that my stator leads and my ignition leads from in the stator cover were NOT leaking.     A couple of years ago, my alternator stator bit the dust and I changed it.     Since then I've had another oil leak which got worse and worse.    Before I put it in my workshop and pulled the cover, I put it on the center stand and ran it at about 2,000 rpm.    I could see exactly where the fresh oil was dripping from.....on the bottom of the stator cover at about the 5:00 o'clock position.    Every couple of minutes another drop of fresh oil would fall. 

I pulled the stator cover and now I can see where there are quite few deep scratches in the cover and the mating engine flange.     No way will a uncoated gasket seal 100%.     Does anybody have a suggestion of what compound or coating I could use to help the gasket seal?

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OPTION  1; Try spraying the gasket surfaces and the gasket with Permatex high tack. Allow to dry to a point just beyond tacky and assemble.

OPTION 2;  Apply a thin coat of Permatex No2 to the gasket surfaces and reassemble with the gasket.

OPTION 3; Apply a small bead 1/32 to 1/16 inches in dia of anaerobic gasket eliminator along the center of the gasket surface. Do not smooth out. reassemble with gasket.

OPTION 4; Coat the damaged areas with JB weld  for aluminum. once hard, file or sand smooth and reassemble.

NOTE: I do not recommend using a silicone in combination with a gasket as all too often the silicone causes the gasket to squeeze out or distort when you tighten the bolts.

If you think you can get away with out the gasket use either  a small bead 1/32 to 1/16 inches in dia of anaerobic gasket eliminator along the center of the gasket surface. Do not smooth out and reassemble or A product called the right stuff again applying a small bead down the center and letting it spread naturally as you assemble the parts.

By applying a bead rather than smoothing it out it pushes out any air and eliminates the risk of developing air pockets

Edited by saddlebum
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Thanks for your suggestions.   I'll think about them for a bit and then choose.  

 

You asked......If you think you can get away with out the gasket use either  a small bead 1/32 to 1/16 inches in dia of anaerobic gasket eliminator along the center of the gasket surface. Do not smooth out and reassemble o

A few years ago, somebody on this site assembled theirs without a gasket using a RTV-Silicone product and when he started the engine, the rotor was rubbing on the cover.     Clearances must be pretty tight here.

When you mentioned that using the Silicone sealants often cause the gasket to push out, that was an eye opener.    I might have used that method without this.

 

 

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31 minutes ago, frankd said:

Thanks for your suggestions.   I'll think about them for a bit and then choose. 

A few years ago, somebody on this site assembled theirs without a gasket using a RTV-Silicone product and when he started the engine, the rotor was rubbing on the cover.     Clearances must be pretty tight here.

That is why I only said if you could because often gasket thickness is an important factor.

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