Jump to content
IGNORED

2007 RSTD oil leak from cylinder head


Recommended Posts

Well, I was going to sell my bike but two things stopped me:

1) My wife just shook her head and say keep it because I like it so much and,

2) I started to notice an oil leak under the bike about a month after I bought it. Can't sell it like that!

 

So, she is here to stay and I'll ride the heck out of her but I want to fix this leak before it gets worse or is hinting at another issue.  Bike has 54000 miles on it.

  I removed the side covers(fake fins) on both sides of the engine and tried to track down the source of the leaks. From first glance, it seems to be leaking around the head gasket on the front left and rear right cylinders, very slightly. Does not seem to be running down from the valve cover that I can tell but I have not dug in to the bike any further to look. 

 

I have heard about a TSB regarding improperly torqued head bolts on the royal stars of this vintage but not sure if that included the RSTD model. I'm hopeful that I can get away with just re-torqueing the bolts after getting the cover off and I suspect having to lift out the cam shafts. 

 

Is this feasible or am I looking at a full head rebuild as well? I have not noticed burning coolant at all but the reservoir was low. I never checked it when I bought it as it slipped my mind so I have no base line yet. I did not see any oil in it either but have not checked in the radiator. No coolant present in the oil either at this point.

 

Suggestions? Guessing I'll have a project for the winter😋

6633D075D8004F59AB0E2577C6B423FA.jpg

20200920_174135.jpg

20200920_174159.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites

Have you already checked to make sure nothing elese is just seeping by that spot, such as a fuel leak?  I have a fuel leak from one of the the carbs that comes down at pretty much the same spot.   I stripped the bike down to parade rest to verify so you may need to do the same thing. 

 

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

I can verify that it is definitely not fuel or coolant.  

I'm planning to pull the covers again, give it a good clean to get the dirt and oil residue off and then run it up and down the road to see if I can spot the source. There is too much oil and dirt that has crept up the surface of the engine to see clearly. I'll have to pick up some engine cleaner and tackle it after hunting season next week. 

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...

Okay, so I pulled the covers, cleaned everything up and then went for a test ride, about 8km. Pulled the covers and found oil weeping from the head gaskets at the front left cylinder corner and rear right cylinder, also at the corner. I can't really tell if it is leaking further inside the block on the other corners but it does not seem to be so far.

 

So, I'm thinking(praying) that it is just improperly torqued head bolts as there is no evidence of coolant leaking so far. Going to pull the covers, then cams and torque the bolts once the bike is parked for the season. Might as well check the valve clearances while I am at it as well.

 

Now, if it does turn out to that the head gaskets are shot, is it possible to pull both heads off with the engine still in the frame or do I have to pull the whole engine out? I know it would be tight but a quick glance looks like it may be possible.

 

Aric

20201110_185951.jpg

20201110_185443.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites

Did you check with your dealer to see if this bike was involved in a recall?   I believe I had 2006 or 2007 RSTD that had a recall on the head bolts.   If was a truly a recall they should repair it for you

Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, vzuden said:

Did you check with your dealer to see if this bike was involved in a recall?   I believe I had 2006 or 2007 RSTD that had a recall on the head bolts.   If was a truly a recall they should repair it for you

Thanks for the info, I will inquire next time I am by the dealer, maybe tomorrow. Is there a way to look up recalls or service bulletins on these bikes?

Link to post
Share on other sites

https://www.nhtsa.gov/recalls

You can enter your VIN number there

this was copied from an old thread on our site:

Make / Models : Model/Build Years: YAMAHA / VMX12 2007

YAMAHA / XVZ13CT 2007

YAMAHA / XVZ13TF 2007

Service Bulletin Number : 2007015 NHTSA Item Number : 10023799 Summary Description : YAMAHA MOTORCYCLE - 2007 XVZ13TF (ROYAL STAR VENTURE), XVZ13CT (ROYAL STAR TOUR DELUXE), VMX12 (V-MAX) -- INSUFFICIENT TIGHTENED CYLINDER HEAD BOLTS. 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Checked my VIN, came back as being covered by the recall. Big BUT though... I'm in Canada and the bike is apparently a US bike(explains the odo being in miles🙄) so the vin does not come up in the Yamaha Canada database, so dealer is unsure if work is covered.  

Sent an email to Yamaha Canada to see if the work can be covered here. Waiting on a response but not holding my breath on a 13 year old bike.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Update on the recall:

I got a response from Yamaha Canada confirming the recall but the rep said that the cutoff time was 2017. And even then, being a US bike it would have had to be done by a US dealer.

 

So, I guess I get to learn how to pull cams to access the bolts. Ordered my new valve cover gaskets ahead of time, and going to measure valve shim clearances while I'm at it. If I need to order a kit, they are 25mm shims right?

Link to post
Share on other sites

I already have the gaskets ordered and will see what shims need replacing if any before making a move for the kit. May be able to make a deal with a mechanic down the road from me, have exchanged shims before. 

As for the tool, I'll take a look at the design and see if I can just machine one at work. I have lots of time since there are no students around at the university...  anyone have a drawing?😉

Link to post
Share on other sites

Little update,

Turns out that the head bolts can be tightened with the cams in place. Figured this out AFTER pulling the rear cams🙄... Anyhow, pull the rubber plugs on top of the cam caps and then turn the engine slowly until the through holes in the cam shafts line up with the holes in the caps. At this point, you can pass a long 8mm Allen key bit through the hole and start torquing.  You'll only be able to do the front or rear cam at a time, so to tighten evenly you should  have to turn the engine over a few times by hand.

 

I would say most of the bolts took about 1/4 turn before clicking over but at least 4 took over a half turn after unsticking a bit, I was worried they may be stripped but they did click eventually! Double checked all the bolts again and they all clicked at the proper torque now.

Had some fun resetting the timing with all the valve springs fighting me(don't pull cams if you can help it!) But one I figured out the trick it wasn't too bad. 

Now the next step is to adjust pretty much ALL of my valve shims, I think previous owner set the tighter I stead of looser thinking it would be better. One shim was upside down so I am not thinking it was factory. Below are the measurements found.

 

 

20201120_170752.jpg

20201121_172707.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...