07 locked in 2nd gear.....

[craigatcsi]

My 07 venture is locked in 2nd gear. The clutch does disengage, it just won’t shift. Have any of you had this happen?

[N3FOL]

Not on my ‘07. This is the first time I’ve heard of such occurrence. I am

leaning towards an issue on the clutch mechanism.

 

 

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[craigatcsi]

Not on my ‘07. This is the first time I’ve heard of such occurrence. I am

leaning towards an issue on the clutch mechanism.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

The clutch..... even though it disengages? It has been a few years since the fluid has been flushed.

[N3FOL]

Ensure yourself that you are not low in clutch fluid and it is always beneficial to keep your fluid fresh and clean.

 

I am no clutch expert...it could be a spring problem - just speculating. Now that we are talking about this type of issue, I remember talking to a co- worker and he was complaining about his gold wing...once in gear - it slips out of gear during hard acceleration.

 

I am sure others will chime in later and give you better advise.

 

 

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[Freebird]

Not the same issue but here is a thread that shows a good bit of information about the shifter and etc.

 

https://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?138861-Did-anyone-else-have-a-2nd-gen-lose-4th-amp-5th-gear&highlight=Drum

[cowpuc]

My 07 venture is locked in 2nd gear. The clutch does disengage, it just won’t shift. Have any of you had this happen?

 

Sure Craig,, on many occasions thru the years.. Never on one of my 1st Gens but lots of times on my track bikes,,, probably cause of the trauma those little suckers went thru.. I pirated the video that was in the 1st post in the thread that the link Freebird sent you to cause it was/is really straight forward and definititive in revealing some of the intricate parts often associated with an issue you are describing.. Watch it carefully.. Do you see the shaft spinning behind the shift drum that is being rotated to match gears? It is the shaft in the background.. This is really important because without rotation within the tranny the shift drum action that the guy is showing in the foreground becomes almost impossible.. You will want to mimic this background shaft action while moving your shifter up and down,, I have found that the simplest way to do this "in the field" is by rocking the bike back and forth while moving shifting it... There is no need to concern yourself with the clutch operation at this time,, matter of fact,, stay away from the clutch,, instead of using your left hand to pull the clutch in, use it to shift with as you lean forward on the bike to rock it back and forth just lean down and lightly shifty with your fingers.. This will add to the feel you get when the gears mesh and it shifts..

Yes,, clutch functionality definitely can and does cause sticky/hard shifting but it does not usually cause the tranny to actually be stuck in gear.. IMHO, that is usually caused by a broken spring, loosened screw on the end of the shift drum, broken follower cam, missing pin in the shift drum locater or something like that = all parts that you are seeing in the video.. Very seldom (although it does happen and I have had to split cases because of it) does the repair involve internal tranny repair requiring engine removal.. The parts you are viewing in the video are located under the clutch basket and do require basket removal to repair..

If you check your bike out as described and it refuses to release from gear DO NOT STOMP ON SHIFTER as this can easily do internal damage.. Instead,, pull the clutch basket and get a peak under there.. Also,, if you do this,, watch carefully in the bottom of the case under the clutch for little parts!! You do not want pieces of broken springs or the like making their way into the tranny.. Make sense?

All an opinion of course!

Puc

[craigatcsi]

I guess that I forgot to post what it was...... The clutch fluid needed flushed. It actually had ‘a ball of crap’ that was in the reservoir along with the fluid. Once flushed, it now shifts like new!

Thanks for suggestions.

[craigatcsi]

Well, here it is with a clutch issue again. It is back to being tough to shift and when I pull the clutch handle in, it doesn’t full disengage. I can still shift, but when at a stoplight the bike wants to creep forward some. When the bike is off, there is quite a bit of play in the clutch handle, like it is out of adjustment. By looking at the clutch reservoir, the fluid is full and clear.

As soon as I pay some other bills off, I will take it back in to the mechanic. Hopefully, he just didn’t clean it out very well when he fixed it last fall.

[Squidley]

Do you see any leaks under the bike that may indicate the slave cylinder is leaking?

[OrlinEngh]

Sounds like you have air in the clutch and need to bleed the air out.

[saddlebum]

Sounds like your loosing fluid or getting air into the system, the later generally only possible after you have lost pretty much all of your fluid. Check your reservoir level, you will probably find it is down. Look for external leaks around the lines and the slave cylinder. If there are no external leaks, than there is a good chance that it is leaking past the piston and shaft in the slave cylinder, where by the brake fluid will be leaking into your crankcase. If this is the case, you will need to either replace or rebuild the clutch slave. Being as how the slave can be a bit of PITA, I would recommend replacing. Rebuilding is easy enough and kits are available but if there is the slightest imperfection in the walls of the slave, you wasted your time and money because it will soon leak again. If you want to simplify the job a bit, get your self a middle gear cover gasket and copper washer for its lower bolt. Removal of this cover gives you better access to the slave, making it easier to get back in. Make sure you drain the engine oil both from the drain plug and the lower cover bolt before removing the cover. The slave can be removed and installed without removal but if you have the wrong set of dentures in your mouth, getting it back in can be a real PITA and instead of quick success you could come up with a new vocabulary that would impress even the most vulgar trucker.

 

Edited August 1, 2021 by saddlebum

[craigatcsi]

On 8/1/2021 at 6:05 AM, Squidley said:

Do you see any leaks under the bike that may indicate the slave cylinder is leaking?

No leaks. - Now, there is little resistance in the clutch lever with full, clear fluid, (new a year ago.)

[RDawson]

Sounds like your master cylinder is going out maybe. 

[Marcarl]

Thinkin you have still some air in the line. Turn your handle bars to the right so that the reservoir is at the very top. Remove the reservoir cover and gently tap the banjo bolt as you wiggle ( only a little bit in and out) the handle. You will most likely find some air bubbles coming out. Keep taping and wiggling until there are no more bubbles. Cover all parts below with a tick towel.

[larrydr]

Hi guys I may not be the expert on the 83 Venture I own , but I have noticed a big improvement on the transmission if I overfill the engine crankcase case ....I do know that in most cases that may not be good to overfill ....But is transmission getting more oil on the overfill , at least on my 83 I have noticed less transmission noise and be better shifting ... I may be dead wrong by doing this , but it has helped my 83.

[saddlebum]

8 hours ago, larrydr said:

Hi guys I may not be the expert on the 83 Venture I own , but I have noticed a big improvement on the transmission if I overfill the engine crankcase case ....I do know that in most cases that may not be good to overfill ....But is transmission getting more oil on the overfill , at least on my 83 I have noticed less transmission noise and be better shifting ... I may be dead wrong by doing this , but it has helped my 83.

You have to watch anytime you overfill an engine. It may help those components which are lubricated by splash but overfilling  can cause whipping or foaming of the oil, specially were the large end of the connecting rod barely rides just above the surface of the oils max level. When you over fill and the oil gets whipped into a foam you actually loose oil pressure and proper lubrication to those components that are pressure fed, because the air in the foamed up  oil not only reduces pressure in the gallerias  but  causes the oil to have  less body hence less lubricating quality. It also can cause air cavitation in the oil pump itself, resulting in premature pump wear and eventual pump failure. This is why there is a max oil level on any oil level indicator, be it stick or site glass. You may be comforting yourself by quieting down the noisy parts that are splash lubricated but you are trading off proper lubrication to pressure fed parts for this false sense of piece of mind.

Edited August 10, 2021 by saddlebum