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I have an '06 REV with Hannigan sidecar. I have heard the Vmax has lower lower gearing that would add a little zip and possibly make 6th gear useful.

 

I'm comfortable pulling the FD but not so much with taking a functional unit apart :). Can anyone suggest a shop to do this? I had of one in PA but no further info on it...

 

TIA

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Moving the whole unit from Vmax to Venture is pretty straight forward (Harder to go Venture to Vmax because one of the Vmax rear shocks mounts to that final drive pumpkin.

 

I'm not sure how the trike changes installation of the final drive, but on the bikes moving Vmax pumpkin to a Venture is pretty straight forward, you'll get your hands dirty but it's not too difficult if your comfortable breaking out the tools.

 

If your having trouble pulling or using 5th then the Vmax gears are probably right about where you want to be. I would imagine that the added weight and rolling resistance of a trike would benefit from slightly lower final drive. 3.31 vs 3.67, enough to feel.

 

https://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?42504-v-max-final-drive Some older reading on the subject.

 

http://www.venturers.org/Tech_Library/index.php?action=article&cat_id=001006&id=52 some chit/chat on ratios and stuff, I had this bookmarked and have enjoyed this library.

 

I sold my last one to another member here. If you have trouble finding one I can give a shout out on the Vmax forum, I'm sure there are plenty of them rolling around under some workbenches. I noticed your a Gen2, my knowledge is 1st gen stuff, I'm sure someone here knows if it is the same housing and easily swap-able. The gears can be swapped out too, but it's a little more involved and you will need a special puller. If it comes to that then Morley's Muscle has all that, and probably the gears too.

Edited by CaseyJ955
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It’s not a direct swap. The VMax pumpkin doesn’t have the speed sensor in it. You either have to swap the gears or mill the hole in the pumpkin for the sensor.

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Thanks for John's info. And it's a local phone number !

 

I will likely just take my FD to him if he's amenable, socially distanced of course :)

 

Thanks all for the feedback.

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Posted (edited)

I spoke with John yesterday and since I'm only an hour away, we're going to set up a time and he'll do it while I wait.

 

 

So... what's the procedure for pulling the FD? Admittedly, I seem to have trouble translating the service manual to something I understand.

But it looks like I need to remove the trunk, bags, hardware, brake caliper, and RH muffler just to pull the rear wheel. Is that all true?

 

And is the FD itself pretty much just the speed sensor and four nuts?

 

 

 

 

PS: after searching the site a bit more found info saying bags, mufflers and caliper should get the rear off...

Edited by ReCycled
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  • 2 weeks later...

Painless transaction and I'm happy with the results, The bike just seems to be in a better powerband most of the time now.

 

One thing I hadn't thought to consider was whether the speedo pick up was on the ring gear or the driveshaft. The speedo and odo seem to registering about 9% fast according to my GPS. I'm sure someone has dealt with this before, is there a standard patch?

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Painless transaction and I'm happy with the results, The bike just seems to be in a better powerband most of the time now.

 

One thing I hadn't thought to consider was whether the speedo pick up was on the ring gear or the driveshaft. The speedo and odo seem to registering about 9% fast according to my GPS. I'm sure someone has dealt with this before, is there a standard patch?

The speed discrepancy is normal, changing the gearing doesn’t change the speedo. You can get a Speedo Healer or Speedodrd to adjust it. I use the DRD because it’s cheaper, they both work well.

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The speed discrepancy is normal, changing the gearing doesn’t change the speedo. You can get a Speedo Healer or Speedodrd to adjust it. I use the DRD because it’s cheaper, they both work well.

 

Concur. Easy to install. Easy to calibrate correction.

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It probably wasn't. when you change the gearing the tooth count is different. The speed sensor probably gets its signal from the number of teeth translated as pulses per mile. Change the gearing changes the number of teeth which then changes the pulses per mile. Which you then have to correct for using an add on device as metioned earlier.

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Posted (edited)
The sensor reads the ring gear. No change.
Actually based on the position of the sensor you will see it gets its signal from the pinion gear which turns faster when you change the gear ratio in the final drive. The drive shaft and pinion then does more revolutions per mile, hence more pulses per mile sent to the speedometer. This translates into the speedometer indicating that the bike is moving faster than it actually is. This because the V-max pinion gear has fewer teeth than the venture pinion gear. Edited by saddlebum
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