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please help, what would you do?


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I really have no way of knowing if your issue is CDI related but can highly recommend the IGNITECH TCIP4 with connector adapter for your Gen1, MK1 Venture.

 

Email ignitech@ignitech.cz and give them your bikes specs and ask for a quote. It's well under $300.00

 

Thank you for that. I'm still troublseshooting. I did forget to mention that when the bike lost power and I pulled over to the side of the road,at which time it died. When i went to restart it really struggled. finally after about 5 starts it barely ran. As it idled very slowly, when i gave it a little throttle, it died. Why would it die when i opened the throttle?

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Thank you for that. I'm still troublseshooting. I did forget to mention that when the bike lost power and I pulled over to the side of the road,at which time it died. When i went to restart it really struggled. finally after about 5 starts it barely ran. As it idled very slowly, when i gave it a little throttle, it died. Why would it die when i opened the throttle?

 

To me this sounds more like a fuel system problem.

Ignition and electrical tend to be instant and/or intermittent, but not a gradual loss of power and slow death.

The throttle issue is another fuel/carb indicator.

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To me this sounds more like a fuel system problem.

Ignition and electrical tend to be instant and/or intermittent, but not a gradual loss of power and slow death.

The throttle issue is another fuel/carb indicator.

 

I think you are correct. Today I replaced original fuel line with new line and fuel filter. Took her around town , no issues. Still running rich as i can smell the gas. Will have to tweak.

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Well, I got stranded again. Something is not right . I checked the plugs and they are dry black sooted , so I'm assuming she is still running rich. Would fouled plugs cause engine to stall. Has brand new fuel filter and tank is clean, no rust. Maybe I can go with a hotter plug?

coils are good but might upgrade.

Any thoughts or help is much appreciated! Thanks

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Just went out to start up bike. No problems, fires right up and idles perfect. I made no adjustments since it stranded. Could something be happening after the engine heats up to cause it to stall?

here are some more things I have noticed, just before it stalls and I give it gas , there is a sucking sound coming from what appears to be the carbs. It's not a backfire just a missing. Also, I just now noticed the carbs aren't seated all the way inside boots so maybe that is causing a vacuum leak. Too many variables here and there is no way I can go on a trip this summer until this is resolved! I see one ribbed line on the bottom of carbs which I think should be further down in boot manifold.

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After some research, here is what could be the problem(s):

coil going bad

cdi going bad

vacuum leak

bad fuel cap

gas tank vent tube plugged

carbs

if u want to validate or add to the list, please do. Interesting how it gives me trouble only after the engine warms up!

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The first thing you need to do if fix the problem you know you have and that is the carbs are not seated correctly in the boots. This could very well be a hot cold issue where the carbs seal just a little better when cool, but as everything heats up, you may have much more of a vacuum leak.

There is no use chasing your tail on problems that may not exist until you fix the problem you KNOW you have.

Randy

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The first thing you need to do if fix the problem you know you have and that is the carbs are not seated correctly in the boots. This could very well be a hot cold issue where the carbs seal just a little better when cool, but as everything heats up, you may have much more of a vacuum leak.

There is no use chasing your tail on problems that may not exist until you fix the problem you KNOW you have.

Randy

Yes, I'm going to fix that today, then see what happens.

Thank you

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When it happens remove the gas cap. If there is a vacuum, the vent is plugged. Without being able to troubleshoot it when it happens, you are left with shotgunning it. It does sound like a heat related electrical problem to me. Plugs one heat range hotter might be a good thing but it has nothing to do with your problem.

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Quick question. When I removed the airbox I noticed 2 ports on the underside of it. One opening was capped off , the one to the rear and then the little port in the front left had no hose connected. Also, How does the airbox get any air if the false tank covers it? I also have the side covers with aftermarket chrome which could restrict airflow somehow, maybe not. When I rode it today , I left off the false tank cover and side panels. Seems to get more air.

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To add a little more on this carb issue, the correct vacuum to each individual carb is absolutely required for the carb to function correctly. To have the correct air/fuel mixture thru the various ports in these carbs, the system reads off various points. This entire carb/intake system is very balanced and any mods anywhere in the system usually is not an improvement.

As far as air getting to the breather with the cover on, it gets all the air it needs. Just look at the size of the actual inlets at the top of the air box. They look way under size for the best performance, but they were designed to create the best air flow and proper vacuum for the deign of these carbs.

If you want the best performance, the best idle and running characteristics, along with the best fuel mileage, keep EVERYTHING exactly as it was designed. I have messed around with these things for almost 25 years and I have not found anything that is an improvement on the original designed system, period.

I am glad you finally got the carbs seated correctly in the boots and if you have any other problems, we can try to address those. If you do want to check for any more vacuum leaks, spray a little starter fluid under the air box and under the carbs and see if you get any response.

Randy

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To add a little more on this carb issue, the correct vacuum to each individual carb is absolutely required for the carb to function correctly. To have the correct air/fuel mixture thru the various ports in these carbs, the system reads off various points. This entire carb/intake system is very balanced and any mods anywhere in the system usually is not an improvement.

As far as air getting to the breather with the cover on, it gets all the air it needs. Just look at the size of the actual inlets at the top of the air box. They look way under size for the best performance, but they were designed to create the best air flow and proper vacuum for the deign of these carbs.

If you want the best performance, the best idle and running characteristics, along with the best fuel mileage, keep EVERYTHING exactly as it was designed. I have messed around with these things for almost 25 years and I have not found anything that is an improvement on the original designed system, period.

I am glad you finally got the carbs seated correctly in the boots and if you have any other problems, we can try to address those. If you do want to check for any more vacuum leaks, spray a little starter fluid under the air box and under the carbs and see if you get any response.

Randy

Well, it looks like the PO has a vent tube of sorts coming from engine by twinkie ( i'm assuming this is whats supposed to connect to airbox. The tube carries over into the fairing and has a little k/n air filter on the end.

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Well, it looks like the PO has a vent tube of sorts coming from engine by twinkie ( i'm assuming this is whats supposed to connect to airbox. The tube carries over into the fairing and has a little k/n air filter on the end.

Chances are he was overfilling the oil and had some draining from the air box. Some people use a filter on the vent to keep oil out of the box. It is simply a crankcase vent.

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Chances are he was overfilling the oil and had some draining from the air box. Some people use a filter on the vent to keep oil out of the box. It is simply a crankcase vent.

 

So..........The 2 ports on bottom of air filter box. Rear is capped and little one in front is open. Just leave alone, cap both, since the port on crankcase already has the hose with filter on the end.

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Okay, now that I have the bike running and not stalling on me, I have a couple more issues to address:

1st the gas tank gauge. I have seen the bars a few times but then they disappear. How do I fix that?

the 2nd issue has already been answered and I just have to find the time to tweak, bike is running rich.

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