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Header Pipes brick wall.


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I usually don't have much trouble finding things on the net. This time, however... I've covered all the bases and I believe the restoration of my Blonde '83 VR should be straight forward but I've hit the wall on new front header pipes. Mine are in good shape aside from some corrosion, but I'd like to have them really nice. E-bay, Craigslist, Google, Bing, etc. have not provided productive leads.

Anyone have a source for NOS pipes ?

Alternatively, a place that will chrome older pipes ?

Chrome shops usually will not do parts that have been exposed to oil at high temperatures as the oil has been baked into the metal and messes up the chrome solution tanks. As you folks have been doing this for some time, perhaps you have an angle on this.

Lastly, will the 1300 cc. pipes fit on the 1200cc. engine ? This would double the pool of salvage pipes I'm probably going to have to "paw" through.

I'd hate to do a classy restoration only to do the front pipes with barbecue flat black... that is so wrong...

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Check out ebay, I seen some not so bad looking ones. Same pipes for all 1st gens. I have a pretty nice set here, one has a bit of roadrash on the bottom other than that they are used, but would shine up quite well. Shipping would kill ya though.

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So, the key to classy restoration is to cover what can't be fixed. The front headers on a a gen 1 bike are barely visible without any "add ons". Find a nice chrome radiator guard and a chrome front scoop and you will never see the headers.

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LOL, coverage is not an option. Like most restoration projects, one starts with a vision. The only deviation I plan from the original is that I would prefer the shorty windscreen. I'm willing to upgrade the ignition and so-forth, progressive springs and such, but the original Blond '83 is what I'm looking to create. ( Besides, I've already taken off 40 lbs. of chrome plated steel stuff bolted all over the machine. ) Good thought though. I can put them both back on if I have to. The radiator cover and chrome scoop are here in the parts box. I'll keep an eye out on e-bay and I bet a forum member might come forth.

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LOL, coverage is not an option. Like most restoration projects, one starts with a vision. The only deviation I plan from the original is that I would prefer the shorty windscreen. I'm willing to upgrade the ignition and so-forth, progressive springs and such, but the original Blond '83 is what I'm looking to create. ( Besides, I've already taken off 40 lbs. of chrome plated steel stuff bolted all over the machine. ) Good thought though. I can put them both back on if I have to. The radiator cover and chrome scoop are here in the parts box. I'll keep an eye out on e-bay and I bet a forum member might come forth.

 

 

My '83 is sporting a cut down factory wind screen and I'm wanting to go with the full height screen. Any chance of a trade?

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Very nice pipes there, Marcarl. Here's what I have, after a half hour trying to clean them up....img076a.jpg I also spent a half hour trying to get the pic rotated, to no effect. They are solid, but rusty and burned. Yours, even with the dings, are nicer. So you're in Washington ? Tacoma ? You're right, the shipping would suck. I'm going to look locally, but right now, your pipes will be hard to beat around here.

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My Pipes are good candidates for a re-chrome job. No big scratches or dents, but the pitting is deep. Picking the direction forward is constrained by $. I am going to wait a bit and see what the options end up being. The brake and clutch systems are screaming for an overhaul. I was lucky enough to get the plug out of the rear brake reservoir without damaging it and was able to free up all the brake zirks as well. Brake pads are 1/4 worn. So far, so good. 2nd. gear works, as it should at 31K miles.

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Just a couple thoughts here,,, on that second gear at 31k still engaging, that's good but if it hasn't been "undercut" and the washer out on the end of the crank replaced. well,,,,, the "dogs" on 5th gear won't engage fully with the sockets on 2nd gear well enuff to twist that throttle like you're gonna wanna do... been there, done that,,,rebuilt the tranny...

 

Don't know if'n they still exist here, but I think I may have somes pics on the undercut job I did on mine, and it would pull the front wheel in 2nd...an '84 in 'prolly '08 or '09. Freebird?

Edited by Dano
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Just a couple thoughts here,,, on that second gear at 31k still engaging, that's good but if it hasn't been "undercut" and the washer out on the end of the crank replaced. well,,,,, the "dogs" on 5th gear won't engage fully with the sockets on 2nd gear well enuff to twist that throttle like you're gonna wanna do... been there, done that,,,rebuilt the tranny...

 

Don't know if'n they still exist here, but I think I may have somes pics on the undercut job I did on mine, and it would pull the front wheel in 2nd...an '84 in 'prolly '08 or '09. Freebird?

@Dano, I found the thread where you undercut the dogs. The pictures had not migrated with the thread, but Don @Freebird has restored them now.

 

Here:

https://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?21023-2nd-gear-cut-and-measurements&highlight=undercut

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I love your suggestions but a rebuild of the tranny is not much of an option for me. Back in the day, when I was a little younger, I would have jumped on it. I'm 65 now, and the prospect of getting the motor out and then back in to the frame is.... daunting. I should have a job this winter which might provide some funds but I am retired and there are certain restraints in cash as well as physical limitations that were not an issue when I had my last Venture back in '97. I will not be hammering on the motor anyway. Not my riding style. My priorities will be good tires and brakes, careful and thorough inspection of the drive train, re-lube all bearings and such. I will spend some time keeping the bike looking sharp. My shop is fairly complete, but I do miss my milling machine and glass bead cabinet. I might have a lathe next spring but I'm not sure it's condition yet. I have a nice tig welder for the frame issue, should it arise.

For this restoration, my approach will be....um...more sweat than cash. I guess that's the best way to put it. For example, instead of shopping around for a minty original trunk, I've glassed up the shattered lower trunk case. I did the same with the side covers. They look great. My biggest fear is age related failure of the various seals on the motor. The rubber of the brake lines, carburetor diaphragms, etc. are all at their "end of shelf life" stage. I've been wrenching on bikes for over 40 years so I've some idea what I'm doing. This is bike #20 for me. I don't imagine I'll put on more than 10K miles on it before I give up and retire from riding. I think this bike will be fine for my purposes, without a transmission rebuild. Though it would be fun...

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IMHO it's not the getting on of the motor so much that causes the second gear issue, as it is the wear on the split washer on the end of the shaft. When that washer is worn so far, the gear will slip out, and that usually happens around 60k or so. I really think that the better the lubing of the washer, the longer it would last, but wear it will. When it gets real close to be totally worn, then twisting the throttle will expedite things somewhat I'm sure.

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Awesome Doug !!! Looking forward to seeing them.

 

Somebody please tell me I don't have to take apart the fairing to get the carbs out ? To my surprise it took a crowbar to gently lift them off the boots. Those throttle cables are now 'In the way ". Perhaps if I take apart the twist grip.... LOL, putting this back together will be a b****. ! It has to be done. The slides are covered with foam particles from the degraded air cleaner seal, mixed with oil in a kind of paste. The pilot air orifices also have plenty of goo. What a mess. Perhaps if I re-installed the carbs with some sort of zipper...

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It's much easier, on an order of magnitude easier to remove the carbs with the left side main fairing and inner plastic removed. I've heard people talk about disconnecting the throttle cables in place but I've never tried it. I take the left side apart and disconnect the cables at the slider/junction box. Getting the fairing off and on is cake compared to what it must be like to try to disconnect and reconnect the cables on the carbs in place.

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I will be posting pics from my (5 bikes) parts bikes later today.

These pics are from the same bike, it's on the H/F lift and (right now) the only bike I can gets parts off of as the other 2 in the garage one is a parts bike and it's jammed in the corner with a bunch of crap in front of it.

I didin't see any rash, like it bottomed out, I did notice a little pin prick rust.

 

IMG_20181104_163200998.jpgIMG_20181104_163231034.jpgIMG_20181104_163246015.jpgIMG_20181104_163231034.jpg

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Awesome Doug !!! Looking forward to seeing them.

 

Somebody please tell me I don't have to take apart the fairing to get the carbs out ? To my surprise it took a crowbar to gently lift them off the boots. Those throttle cables are now 'In the way ". Perhaps if I take apart the twist grip.... LOL, putting this back together will be a b****. ! It has to be done. The slides are covered with foam particles from the degraded air cleaner seal, mixed with oil in a kind of paste. The pilot air orifices also have plenty of goo. What a mess. Perhaps if I re-installed the carbs with some sort of zipper...

 

I think Freebird is going to move this to a new post as it deals with carbs and not exhaust pipes but anyway.

When you re-assemble the 4 separate carbs to create ONE unit of carbs place all the carbs on a FLAT surface THEN connect the carbs together in to one unit. This way the bottom of the carbs will all be in the same geographic plane; like the intakes are. It will be easier to install the unit of 4 carbs this way. You have to re-install them the same way you took them out.

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