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Carb slides not moving


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So for the record/ that is completely wrong/ but looks very well accomplished! Now I'm not suggesting they'll stay together in symphony but,,, If you had painted them before taking the pic,, would be hard pressed to see the repair!

 

Not bad rookie, welcome to the club Rod.

Patch

 

Not celebrating yet.... but I believe it will work. But I am purchasing two from a fellow member.

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Not celebrating yet.... but I believe it will work. But I am purchasing two from a fellow member.

 

Well that is the wiser move Rod, still your efforts are quite telling for those of us that just enjoy pushing ourselves trough this old motorcycle rehab addiction;) I think you did a pretty good job of it!

 

These CV carbs need a good balance to perform as intended, when they are off tune then really no matter the efforts these bikes are just Honda's ;)

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Something like this will get a guy home! But would you leave for a long trip?

 

I think you did a very good job!

 

Try this this, stop the video at 0.11 / imagine a line between front left and rear right, do the same for the other 2 remaining.

 

If I may ask what else have you checked on the bike?

 

Electrical? Compression? Rear wheel lash? Filters...

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Something like this will get a guy home! But would you leave for a long trip?

 

I think you did a very good job!

 

Try this this, stop the video at 0.11 / imagine a line between front left and rear right, do the same for the other 2 remaining.

 

If I may ask what else have you checked on the bike?

 

Electrical? Compression? Rear wheel lash? Filters...

 

The bike was running when I bought it. Obviously it wasn't running well with two stuck carb slides. Everyone on this form was saying how snappy the bike is and I wasn't getting that feeling so pulled it apart. I have changes the oil and oil filter, air filter is clean enough and new plugs. I have not done a compression test. I have been busy with fixing the cruise control and other minor things.

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The bike was running when I bought it. Obviously it wasn't running well with two stuck carb slides. Everyone on this form was saying how snappy the bike is and I wasn't getting that feeling so pulled it apart. I have changes the oil and oil filter, air filter is clean enough and new plugs. I have not done a compression test. I have been busy with fixing the cruise control and other minor things.

 

I get it.

It takes a bit of time to really make any bike meet or beat our expectations, been down that road many times.

 

Tell me did you notice anything at the 0.11 mark?

 

Things that can improve snap are air flow, cleaned carbs, a thorough exam of the jets and needles/ meaning shape of jet port & needles, compression/vacuum, and coil voltage can make quite a difference as well.

 

It takes some time and, at least for myself I need to write out the results, when I do so most times this will help me build a clearer picture or share my troubleshooting thoughts with others..

 

Usually the expected power is just suppressed by some circuit under performing.

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yea the one i repaired (bottom right) is hanging up or not performing the same as the others. I'm glad they are easy to swap out. I do have to sync the carbs. I'm sure that is a big problem.

 

That's what I see too Rod. But that carb would have taken you home if you had, had an issue on the road; and likely you just might be that guy that figures a work around when in a jamb.

 

Cheers and if it were me I'd keep getting familiar with the bike systems before syncing carbs, say like a compression and coil voltage...

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That's what I see too Rod. But that carb would have taken you home if you had, had an issue on the road; and likely you just might be that guy that figures a work around when in a jamb.

 

Cheers and if it were me I'd keep getting familiar with the bike systems before syncing carbs, say like a compression and coil voltage...

 

How do I check coil voltage? What am I looking for?

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The easiest way to check the coils is to test the resistance of the primary and secondary windings with an Ohm Meter. I don't have the specs at hand but they are posted in several threads and are in the service manual.

 

If the coils Ohm out in spec, odds are they are fine, however there is always a chance that they will beak down under heat and load. They are 30+ years old, ya know. Without a high pot. tester, there's no sure way to test under load.

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After you get familiar with the book specs like where every thing is located, it is an important chapter in the repair manual and worth hovering over the bike while going through the pages. There are some shortcuts and you really don't need fancy equipment to rule on the condition of the coils but the more you know the faster it is to get to the end.

 

Checking coils I think I touched on this in the fogging post, first check for House voltage at the coils, so what ever the battery reads you want to be very close to at the coils.

Example: 13 V at the battery 13 volts at the coil with key on and if you can remove the head lamp fuse during testing.

 

Next set your meter to ohms, ignition switch off test between both primary terminals of the 4 coils. They should be within the book spec!

 

Next and is the best of all checks for the coil output is the gap check. You can buy a cheap tester for this at the local parts store. Check this thread for some insight post 45 shows a simple gadget..

https://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?137076-Intermittent-Misfire-on-All-Cylinders/page3

 

The compression test will give you an idea of the potential punch the engine can deliver, so certainly not a tough one to do and well worth the setup. Easiest to do of course when the carbs are of for cleaning!

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Great stuff. I will get to it when I get back from Tennessee. I ended up rented a bike from HD and doing the Gatlinburg Loop and Tail of the Dragon. Looking forward to getting the bike back on the road when I get home. Thanks again for the help. I will report back with my findings.

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