Chaharly Posted June 15, 2018 Share #26 Posted June 15, 2018 I put everything back together, the pump works fine. It will fire up for about 1 second then die, just like someone hit the kill switch. Is their a safety shutoff switch on these bikes that shut off the bike when they are laid down. I really wish I could help ya better. But if I were you I would definitely start at your new ignition switch and work your way back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flyinfool Posted June 15, 2018 Share #27 Posted June 15, 2018 OUCH!! Is that a window in the engine???? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steamer Posted June 15, 2018 Author Share #28 Posted June 15, 2018 Ok, back to my problem. I posted more info over on 2nd gen tech talk. It's not the fuel pump. Please read post on tech talk. Any and all help will be appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flyinfool Posted June 15, 2018 Share #29 Posted June 15, 2018 Yes their is a tip over switch. I suppose that it is possible that a high G quick turn could fool it into thinking the bike fell over? But I think it is supposed to be a self resetting switch, so as soon as the side load is gone it should turn the ignition back on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpencerPJ Posted June 16, 2018 Share #30 Posted June 16, 2018 Never hurts to disconnect the battery for 5 minutes and let everything reset itself. Sometimes quirky things fix themselves. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steamer Posted June 16, 2018 Author Share #31 Posted June 16, 2018 Yes their is a tip over switch. I suppose that it is possible that a high G quick turn could fool it into thinking the bike fell over? But I think it is supposed to be a self resetting switch, so as soon as the side load is gone it should turn the ignition back on. I think your right, it should reset, but maybe because it's so old "99" and never activated before, maybe stuck or shorted out due to corrosion. I'm going to take a look at it tomorrow. Form what I found on another post it is behind the right side neck cover. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steamer Posted June 16, 2018 Author Share #32 Posted June 16, 2018 Never hurts to disconnect the battery for 5 minutes and let everything reset itself. Sometimes quirky things fix themselves. You know, that's not a bad idea. Will have to wait till tomorrow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leo3wheel Posted June 16, 2018 Share #33 Posted June 16, 2018 OUCH!! Is that a window in the engine???? That's the result of a gas explosion in the engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djh3 Posted June 16, 2018 Share #34 Posted June 16, 2018 Close petcock if really worried about it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leo3wheel Posted June 16, 2018 Share #35 Posted June 16, 2018 Well, I've had a couple incidents with bad gas. If you swerved to avoid a pothole, you may have shifted gas in your tank and got some bad stuff that lays on the bottom. First time I had problems with gas, I had a full main tank and decided to switch from ON to RES on the highway to test reserve. Trike immediately died. Switch petcock to ON, and trike resumed. Dumped all gas out of tank and filled it with fresh, conditioned gas. RES and ON then worked fine. Recently, hit some pot holes with my right rear tire, and shook things up. As I approached home, believe bad gas ruined my fuel pump and clogged 2K mile fuel filter. Trike would idle, but could not take off in gear. Replaced fuel pump because it no longer made ticking sound. No change! Dumped all gas out of fuel tank and filled it with fresh, conditioned gas, drained fuel lines/new fuel pump and replaced fuel filter. Initially, trike still idled okay, but would not take off. After some persuasion, finally cleared the carbs and trike ran fine. What I'm saying is, you may have liquid at the carbs, but it could have water. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vzuden Posted June 16, 2018 Share #36 Posted June 16, 2018 Close petcock if really worried about it. i don’t get off my bike without closing it. I had hydro lock once and was lucky there was no damage. It was with the factory fuel pump too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djh3 Posted June 16, 2018 Share #37 Posted June 16, 2018 Hmm what about the cut out switch on the bars? Try a tap or 2 on it while it runs and see if it quits. As for a pinched wire, all the wires for the ignition switch run under the tank and back to the center of the bike by battery. You might just try wiggling the switch. You say its not that old. is it new or just new to you? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cowpuc Posted June 16, 2018 Share #38 Posted June 16, 2018 Bob's fuel pump recommendation may be superior and lower cost than the OEM fuel pump, but I'm perfectly happy with the OEM pump. Last thing I need is engine problems. OUCH!! Is that a window in the engine???? That's the result of a gas explosion in the engine. If we were playing the old "guess what this is" game my guess would be that a balance shaft snapped and tried to escape thru the case... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leo3wheel Posted June 16, 2018 Share #39 Posted June 16, 2018 Close petcock if really worried about it. Found my trike pulls from its auxiliary tank if petcock is OFF. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steamer Posted June 16, 2018 Author Share #40 Posted June 16, 2018 Well, I've had a couple incidents with bad gas. If you swerved to avoid a pothole, you may have shifted gas in your tank and got some bad stuff that lays on the bottom. First time I had problems with gas, I had a full main tank and decided to switch from ON to RES on the highway to test reserve. Trike immediately died. Switch petcock to ON, and trike resumed. Dumped all gas out of tank and filled it with fresh, conditioned gas. RES and ON then worked fine. Recently, hit some pot holes with my right rear tire, and shook things up. As I approached home, believe bad gas ruined my fuel pump and clogged 2K mile fuel filter. Trike would idle, but could not take off in gear. Replaced fuel pump because it no longer made ticking sound. No change! Dumped all gas out of fuel tank and filled it with fresh, conditioned gas, drained fuel lines/new fuel pump and replaced fuel filter. Initially, trike still idled okay, but would not take off. After some persuasion, finally cleared the carbs and trike ran fine. What I'm saying is, you may have liquid at the carbs, but it could have water. The gas is good, I took a sample, no water or sediment. If it were gas it wouldn't just shut off. It runs fine when it run and just shuts down. Will not start again un till it sits for a while. will only run for a second or two then shuts off like hitting the kill switch. It's a ignition or electrical problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steamer Posted June 16, 2018 Author Share #41 Posted June 16, 2018 Hmm what about the cut out switch on the bars? Try a tap or 2 on it while it runs and see if it quits. As for a pinched wire, all the wires for the ignition switch run under the tank and back to the center of the bike by battery. You might just try wiggling the switch. You say its not that old. is it new or just new to you? New to me. Had only 3000 mile on the bike it cam off of. Everything work as it should when key is in on position. As I said it will start then shut down after a second or two. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djh3 Posted June 16, 2018 Share #42 Posted June 16, 2018 I feel like the guy on the transmission commercial. "What sound? GRR A GRR or Wannkee" Is it abrupt shut down like turn key off , loss of power or slow misfire type . To me if its the quick and dirty leads me to lean electrical. Going to have to start jumpering plugs I think. Start with easy one for right handle bar shut off. If you need pins and wire colors Im sure someone can get them if you cant. May have to figure a way to test out ignit I'll on switch just to elminate. It has to let electric flow from battery back down harnes (the larger 2 pin connector red and blue I think) but also in switch send power over to the 3 wire ecm harness to power it. If something along that route was interrupted, no fire. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marcarl Posted June 16, 2018 Share #43 Posted June 16, 2018 So you think you have gas. Next is, do you have spark. Fire it up and when it dies check a plug for spark. I know, it's assumed that you should have, or assumed that you don't have, but check it anyways. In order for an engine to fire you need three things, fuel, spark and compression. If one is missing then you need to fix that. Check first, don't assume. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patch Posted June 16, 2018 Share #44 Posted June 16, 2018 Like Carl mentioned that needs to be top of the check list. Here's a post by Don http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?32359-Ignition-Switch-Wiring-Failure Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steamer Posted June 16, 2018 Author Share #45 Posted June 16, 2018 So you think you have gas. Next is, do you have spark. Fire it up and when it dies check a plug for spark. I know, it's assumed that you should have, or assumed that you don't have, but check it anyways. In order for an engine to fire you need three things, fuel, spark and compression. If one is missing then you need to fix that. Check first, don't assume. you forgot the fourth thing... air. It no longer starts, now it just turns over with no veroom. It has to be spark. It can't be the coils, maybe one or two will go bad, but not all 4 at the same time. could it be a relay? I'm lost right now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WildBill1 Posted June 16, 2018 Share #46 Posted June 16, 2018 Clean your main ground lug and reattach it to the frame. 12 volt electrical problems most of the time are tracked back to faulty grounds. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steamer Posted June 16, 2018 Author Share #47 Posted June 16, 2018 Clean your main ground lug and reattach it to the frame. 12 volt electrical problems most of the time are tracked back to faulty grounds. Can't be the ground, everything works, the starter is getting plenty of juice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDawson Posted June 16, 2018 Share #48 Posted June 16, 2018 TCI connections? Maybe check all safeties, tip, sidestand,clutch/gear, etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
93 venture Posted June 17, 2018 Share #49 Posted June 17, 2018 http://www.venturerider.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=113079&d=1529205140&thumb=1&stc=1This is what i found before mine stopped running, this is a connection from my 99 IGN. switch. i installed a relay kit before it die on the side of the road, also in the manual section 8 page 8, there is trouble shooting steps for the ignition system. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steamer Posted June 17, 2018 Author Share #50 Posted June 17, 2018 http://www.venturerider.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=113079&d=1529205140&thumb=1&stc=1This is what i found before mine stopped running, this is a connection from my 99 IGN. switch. i installed a relay kit before it die on the side of the road, also in the manual section 8 page 8, there is trouble shooting steps for the ignition system. Had this happen last year, now have new switch and connections. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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