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Electrical Trouble Shooting Results/Help


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Hey All,

 

Scenario:

 

Went to start bike, Turns over but not enough to start. Put on charger. Next day started right up.

Went for ride. Approximately 10 minutes later started doing funky stuff, Radio cut on and off then entire audio shut itself off. Speedometer started jumping up and down weirding out. Blinkers not working. Turn back immediately got almost home got out of throttle bike died. Turned corner dumped clutch bike fired back up but really rough. Cranked throttle rpms way up smoothed out. Got home two blocks away. Of throttle to turn into drive died again. dumped clutch again few seconds rough running then total stop. Put back on charger next day started fine. Didn't ride, didn't want to risk it. Decided to troubleshoot thinking possible Battery. Rectifier or Stator.

 

Bike Electrical Status - No changes within a long time. Nothing added, nothing removed.

 

Troubleshooting Results:

 

Battery - 12 hour trickle 2A charge Checked fine Load tested okay

 

Rectifier -

Red Lead to Battery + Post / Black Lead to each Stator Post

1 - OL

2 - OL

3 - OL

 

Black Lead to Battery + Post / Red Lead to each Stator Post

1 - 0.477

2 - 0.474

3 - 0.466

 

Red Lead to Battery - Post / Black Lead to each Stator Post

1 - 0.471

2 - 0.477

3 - 0.478

 

Black Lead to Battery - Post / Red Lead to each Stator Post

1 - OL

2 - OL

3 - OL

 

STATOR RESULTS:

 

Engine Off

OHMS Black Lead to Ground Wire / Red Lead to each Stator Wire

1 - OL

2 - OL

3 - OL

 

OHMS Stator Wire to Stator Wire @ 85F

 

1 to 2 - 0.5

1 to 3 - 0.5

2 to 3 - 0.6

 

Volts AC at Idle

 

1 to 2 - 24

1 to 3 - 24

2 to 3 - 24

 

Volts AC at approx 2000 rpm (no RPM meter)

 

1 to 2 - 48

1 to 3 - 65

2 to 3 - 57

 

Volts AC at approx 3500 to 4000 rpm (no RPM meter)

 

1 to 2 - 65

1 to 3 - 85

2 to 3 - 75

 

Seems to me the Battery is good and the Rectifier is good but not sure on the Stator.

 

Any thoughts would be most welcomed. If you think it is one particular thing por reason please let me know so all of us can learn not only the what but the why as well.

 

Thanks all.

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What I find in the Service manual is across the 3 white wires @ stator should be between .279-.341 @ 65 deg. Now when in heck your going to get 68 degree weather I dunno. Also says you should be getting 14v dc @ 5k RPM for charge. It certainly sounds like you got a bad battery or it ran long enough on the battery power and the alternator cant keep up. How old is the battery? Not 100% sure, but stator wont OHM back to battery on either lead because it has to "see voltage" to open the regulator me thinks.

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Your stator seems to check good. The rectifier also seems to check out. The way you checked the rectifier seems to indicate you connections are good too.

 

What you cannot check (at least with common equipment) is the voltage regulator. It shares the box with the regulator, hence regulator/rectifier.

 

Looks like you probably need a regulator/rectifier.

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Great thorough set of tests.

What I don't see,

battery voltage after it's been shore charged,

battery voltage 5 hours later,

 

voltage at battery terminals;

at idle

at 2K rpm

at 3K rpm

check those voltages again with neg lead on a frame ground point. report.

Will go look at the diagrams but if your tests indicate the battery and grounds are good and it's not charging, then there is a way to bypass the regulator function and make the stator put out full output, this should only be done for a minute or so and avoid revving motor to produce more than 15 volts. This would pretty much lay it at the door of a defective regulator.

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Great thorough set of tests.

What I don't see,

battery voltage after it's been shore charged,

battery voltage 5 hours later,

 

voltage at battery terminals;

at idle

at 2K rpm

at 3K rpm

check those voltages again with neg lead on a frame ground point. report.

Will go look at the diagrams but if your tests indicate the battery and grounds are good and it's not charging, then there is a way to bypass the regulator function and make the stator put out full output, this should only be done for a minute or so and avoid revving motor to produce more than 15 volts. This would pretty much lay it at the door of a defective regulator.

 

Should I run the voltage at battery terminals checks at idle, 2K and 3K before or after the five hour sit?

 

Thanks

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No biggie either way, do the resting battery test then start the bike and do the voltage while running tests. or do the running tests then the resting battery test later.

charging.jpg

 

The charging diagram, really no way to "jumper" the regulator to force full charging.

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OK, the batter is a 12VDC source.

 

If you take a voltage reading at the battery terminals with the engine running, anything over 12VDC is output from the regulator/rectifier. You want to see 14VDC or something close to it. Ideally, 14VDC at any RPM but realistically, bikes need to be at 2000RPM +/- to see good charging voltage.

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OK, the batter is a 12VDC source.

 

If you take a voltage reading at the battery terminals with the engine running, anything over 12VDC is output from the regulator/rectifier. You want to see 14VDC or something close to it. Ideally, 14VDC at any RPM but realistically, bikes need to be at 2000RPM +/- to see good charging voltage.

 

Thanks

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No biggie either way, do the resting battery test then start the bike and do the voltage while running tests. or do the running tests then the resting battery test later.

 

The charging diagram, really no way to "jumper" the regulator to force full charging.

 

Thanks. Hopefully I can get a shot at it tomorrow.

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