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87 stator/crank cover stripped screw


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OK, one thing to mention here, when ANYONE is working on these bikes, make sure to use JIS Phillips screwdrivers, not SAE drivers. The difference between the two is the angle of the teeth. If you use SAE on a JIS screw, you stand a good chance of stripping out the head. I mention this because when I look at your picture, the head does look a little bit rounded out. I will say that with the larger P3 and P4 heads the chance of rounding them out is less than with the P1 and P2 but it still can happen.

 

As mentioned, a little heat helps to soften the Loctite, and use an impact driver to break them loose. Myself, when I installed my stator I switched to metric hex head bolts...

 

Very glad you were able to get things squared away!! Hopefully, the information in this thread will be helpful to the next person!

 

All good points taken Bob. For the remaining 4 screw removal I used an impact Dewalt SAE P3 bit. As luck has it, turns out it the fit was tight as could be ... and they came out easy without noticable damage. Next time I'll add a little heat. I still have the 'day use' bike cover to remove and reseal.

 

After some thought, I like the idea of changing them out to hex heads. Brafasco next week.

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OK Silly question time.

Now that Bob mentioned it, That screw head does not look so much like it is rounded out as it looks like it IS a SAE Philips head. What thread did you tap that hole out to?

 

You guys don't miss a trick lol. I used an SAE stainless steel screw to match my SAE tap set.

 

the screw on left side of pics are original and screw on the right side of pics are stainless. The Dewalt P3 bit fits perfectly into both.

 

Likely pick up hex heads to replace screws next week.

 

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  • 3 years later...

Checking the last post in the thread, this project has been on the shelf since Jan 2017. Picked up the pieces about 5 weeks ago. (thanks Covid isolation) Resolved all but one issue as follows after bike was reassembled. It ran fine pre-project, that was 3 years ago.

 

Today, turn ignition on, fuel pump sounds normal, CPU cycles thru self check no errors, neutral light ok, apply choke and it fires up like a champ. At this point it won't idle properly, when choke is slowly removed it will eventually stall. Restarts ok with choke and rpms runaway, when choke is feathered back slowly, it will idle fine for minutes but the choke is still in play. As the engine heats to temperature the choke must be on slightly or it will stall. During any of this process if the throttle is twisted at all, the engine stalls immediately. All cylinders appear to be firing and runs smooth throughout. There is very little to no backfiring during the whole process. Here's what I've checked to date:

 

Drained old gas, added fresh gas and a few ozs of Seafoam. Checked spark on all plugs. Checked carb linkages. Good fuel flow thru gas filter. Checked carb throat and slides through air filter compartment. All diaphragms intact and slide assemblies appear ok. Throttle and throttle linkages feel and look normal. Idle at thumbscrew adjustment appears ok. Haven't touched any carb adjustment screws or jets.

 

Not sure what to poke or prod next, hoping I missed something obvious ... any help or suggestions would be very much appreciated !

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Seeing as you already started with Seafoam, chuck in the whole can, let it run for a minute to get the new mixture into the carbs, then let it sit for a few hours, repeat and repeat. I that don't work you need to satnd in line to get some real carb cleaner, I buy the spry stuff at wholesale so just spray a whole can into 1/4 tank of gas, once things are clean,,, if that happens, then I fill the tank.

Seems to me to be a fuel issue and there could be some gumming in the carbs from sitting. If the carb cleaner don't work, you could go the HotShot method, and if that don't do it,, the carbs come out for a deep cleaning,,, they have the virus!!!

If there was fuel in the bowls when it last ran,,, the deep clean might be the best solution.

Where are you located? I might be of help.

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Checking the last post in the thread, this project has been on the shelf since Jan 2017. Picked up the pieces about 5 weeks ago. (thanks Covid isolation) Resolved all but one issue as follows after bike was reassembled. It ran fine pre-project, that was 3 years ago.

 

Today, turn ignition on, fuel pump sounds normal, CPU cycles thru self check no errors, neutral light ok, apply choke and it fires up like a champ. At this point it won't idle properly, when choke is slowly removed it will eventually stall. Restarts ok with choke and rpms runaway, when choke is feathered back slowly, it will idle fine for minutes but the choke is still in play. As the engine heats to temperature the choke must be on slightly or it will stall. During any of this process if the throttle is twisted at all, the engine stalls immediately. All cylinders appear to be firing and runs smooth throughout. There is very little to no backfiring during the whole process. Here's what I've checked to date:

 

Drained old gas, added fresh gas and a few ozs of Seafoam. Checked spark on all plugs. Checked carb linkages. Good fuel flow thru gas filter. Checked carb throat and slides through air filter compartment. All diaphragms intact and slide assemblies appear ok. Throttle and throttle linkages feel and look normal. Idle at thumbscrew adjustment appears ok. Haven't touched any carb adjustment screws or jets.

 

Not sure what to poke or prod next, hoping I missed something obvious ... any help or suggestions would be very much appreciated !

 

Max,, it sounds to my untrained beaner like you may be experiencing plugged low speed jets/jet circuitry in one of more of your bikes 4 carbs.. Possibly even a high speed jet to two too.. That being said, the following copy/paste of a post I made years ago is something I have done successfully through the years to unplug jets (did a LOT of dealer auctions years ago and used this a lot in the field to get abandoned bikes to possibly fire up.. IMHO,, it worked pretty good for me).. It may or may not be worth a read.. Either way,, all the best with your project!!

 

***** word of caution!! It would be best if you used spray carb cleaner in the syringe and not Chem Dip as Chem Dip is fairly sensitive to work with.. Not getting the Chem Dip out of the bowls in time can/will result in damage to rubber o-rings and diaphrams.. Normal carb cleaner found at auto parts stores can be injected and left for long periods of time in the bowls with no damage being done..

 

 

**** I also believe I have a video of this process that I made years ago,, if I can find it I will post it up for you.

Agreed,, IMHO Randy,, you should have no problembo on the carb rebuild, yep,, your that talented!! :thumbsup:

You and I both know from experience that when carbs get to the point that you are talking about here they really should be opened up and done properly.. A really really good top to bottom clean, some new jets and a complete rebuild of all rubber parts, taking the time to make sure ALL the passages into the throat of carb are open, triple checking diaphram conditions and replacing if needed, new needle and seats,, all that done, synced up and that puppy will run like a new one.. Then if its cared for the carb overhaul should last for many many years..

Now,, a little secret that I have done successfully many many times after purchasing a scoot that hasnt ran in many years and trying to figure out exactly what I have.. The following advice is NOT for everyone because if not done in a timely fashion = rubber internal carb parts are toast BUT - if you gotta take the carb down any way,, it's worth a shot IMHO and at least for me..

Years ago I did a very scientific test on carb cleaning products to decide which product I was going to use for my plan by seperating the carbs off a junk 750 Honda that had sat for many years with fuel in the tank and petcock open (NASTY) = opening them up and dunking the parts in seperate containers filled with pure, new, 100% undiluted carb cleaning products.. I narrowed my test products down to 4 of the best known products including one that I have used for years as a tank dunk.. Results in order of performance:

1st Place = Berryman's Chem Dip (comes in a one gallon dip tank = have used it for years) = parts came clean in one hour.

2nd Place = That Yellow and White can of carb cleaner that Auto Zone used to sell - they dont sell it any more but it was the stuff that if you got it under your wedding band your finger was INSTANLY on fire!! 8 hour soak and parts came clean.

3rd Place = Blue and White can of GM Injector Cleaner (for the life of me I can think of the actual name of the stuff - been a long time).. 1 day/24 hour soak parts came clean enough that with a small amount of rubbing with a tooth brush the stuff sparkled.

4th Place = Seafoam = left it set for a week and even then the tough stuff was hanging tough.. Still no clue why Seafoam seems to work like it does.. Makes the engine run better but testing showed it was NOT because it was actually cleaning anything..

 

I did all that above testing because, at the time, I was being over run with bikes of all types that had set for years and I needed to formulate a way to get em going without investing a lot of time and parts money into getting them started just to find out I was dealing with a bad crank or what ever = these were MY bikes NOT a customers bike that I was paid to do a carb rebuild on!!.. A quick,, make em run just to see what I had.. That said,, the following is what I came up with, has worked for me many times, even proved itself to work sometimes to the point that I ended up not needing to pull the carb down BUT - that was not 100%! Its a gamble..

So,, if its worth a shot and your gonna pull the carbs anyway AND your friends plan is to do a complete carb rebuild, here is what I would do first:

Centerstand or stand the bike upright so the bowls are level. Shut off the gas, drain the carbs, pull the diaphrams/slides. Pick up a large animal injection syringe from an ag store (should be in your tool box already = very handy :missingtooth:), slide the end of the syringe over the drain line, fill the syringe with Chem Dip and inject Chem Dip into the bowls one at a time until the Chem Dip flows out of the mains a little, close the drain and go to next carb. Allow Chem Dip to set in Carb bowl for 1 hour!! Open Drains one at a time with syringe attached and suck Chem Dip out of bowls emptying syringe back into gallon container of Chem Dip for future use. Fill syringe with Spray carb cleaner of brake cleaner of your choice and inject into bowls until it drips out of mains. Let sit while you fill all the bowls. Go back to first carb filled with carb cleaner - attach syringe, open drain screw, agitate cleaner by pulling syringe in and out - few pulls and you will notice carb cleaner has turned brown.. After pulling cleaner all the way to empty bowl go to next carb and continue till all carbs are empty.. Now start over, do this until you have clean carb cleaner from each bowl after agitation. Now switch over to raw gas, fill bowls again till raw gas is seeping from mains. Agitate and empty 2x. Replace diaphrams/slides making sure that slides are all moving easily in carb casings.. Any sign of sticky = clean until it slides effortlessly.. Button her up, turn on the gas and see what cha got..

Any of that make sense at all brother?? Need a video for clarification = can do..

Another thing I would check very carefully is tank interior.. Look very carefully for rust in tank = any rust gone to stalagtites = tank seal. Most rust dust can easily be cleaned to perfection by emptying tank = fill it with white vinegar (stuff is amazing = personally I have used white vinegar fairly successfully for carb cleaning with the drain/agitate method when the jets are plugged off severly like the one your dealing with are = good stuff). If the tank isnt stalagtited = use vinegar, gotta let it set for a few days is all BUT = it will clean up and not remove the galvanization (in tank sealing removing that galvanization is commonly known as "etching".. If ya gotta seal the tank = Red Kote is THE max!!!

Sorry for the long post,, hope it helps somehow!! Best of the best gettin your buddies scoot happening for em Rand = YOU DA MAN!!:thumbsup:

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Appreciate all the prompt responses. Path of least resistance calls for the full can of Seafoam. If that doesn't work, and it will, time to roll up the sleeves and follow through with posted suggestions. Will update.

 

Used the last few ounces of Seafoam for this application. Heard the provincial gov't is opening all hardware stores to indoor shopping this Saturday. That's a sign of some progress. Heading over to C.T. Sunday and stock up on the Foam.

 

Where are you located? I might be of help.

Brantford to Peterborough is at best a 2.5 hour run. That would have been cool to connect. I could use the help, and surely be asking for it in the near future.

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Completed original task resealing stator case and wires. Ran into a few glitches after reassembly.

 

Class EI error code. Resolved by resoldering all main connector pins. (thanks for write-up Freebird) There were no visual cracks or loose solder joints to the eye.

Compressor manual and auto functions now operational to both front and rear.

 

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Last year I removed speedo/odometer from this project 87' to replace a defect unit on the prime day use 87'. (stripped nylon gear in the housing)

Fortunately I have a complete 89' parts bike to steal from, which as it turns out is a US bike with a MPH readout. No problem.

 

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CPU self check showed gas level and headlight icon warning. Actual headlight low and high beam appeared to work normally. Replaced bulb on spec and warning light out.

Drained gas and removed sender unit assembly. The float arm was binding a bit and housing slightly corroded. Cleaned unit thoroughly with wd40 cleared that up.

 

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Removed as much oil as possible on wires and sealed with 650°f silicone inside and out. The burned clear coat is noticeable, left it as is

for now and will give it all a good once over after the last issue with the carbs is resolved.

 

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Past 24 hrs : Was going to start an apprentice carb thread but after searching and researching forum carb threads, came across this gem https://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?141445-87-VR-carb-problem&highlight=jets . All I can say is Wow!.... Hope to understand half of what I've just read and might just get thru this carb thing. I'll continue here with my layman questions. Not ready to tap out just yet.

So, yesterday I removed sliders again and doused all visible ports and surfaces carefully with Gunk carb cleaner. I'm not sure about the purge jet port with the tiny O ring, assuming it's probably cleaned thru. Applied light compressed air to all afterward.

 

Today: Pilot screws were turned out close if not exactly 2 turns. Added a full can of Seafoam. 1-4 fuel levels measured as best as could given clear plastic tubing and measuring tape to center mark : 17,15,17,16 mm to a warmed static engine, won't run steady long enough to take fuel measurements while idling. Fired up and noticeable steadier idle but requires choke and will either stall or rpms run away eventually. Also first time for slight throttle response. Things are heading the right way. This afternoon will swap spark plugs from the 87' sister as she is at 100% virus free and wait 24 hours for additional Seafoam to do it's best. Any suggestions (other than benching carbs :rolleyes: ) at this point are more than welcome.

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It may not be RPM runaway. With full choke idle is around 3500 +/- RPM. It does sound like runaway as the RPM are slowly climbing. When cold starting I used about half choke which gave an idle of around 2500, I would let it idle there to warm up whil I put on all of my gear, I would then adjust the choke to give a 1500-1800 idle to start my ride. After 1/4 to 1/2 mile I cold open the choke fully.

 

Now in your case with plugged idle jets, do what you need to do with the choke to keep it running, the seafoam can do nothing if it is not flowing thru the carbs, You will want the choke set as far open as you can and still keep it running so that it is using the idle circuit as much as possible to try to get it cleaned out. Run it till fully heated up and let sit over night, keep repeating this until it starts to clean its self out. If after a week it is not getting better then it probably means that one or more jets are completely plugged and the seafoam is not able to get in there, in which case the only thing that will clean it out is to remove and manually clean them out.

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Past 24 hrs : Was going to start an apprentice carb thread but after searching and researching forum carb threads, came across this gem https://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?141445-87-VR-carb-problem&highlight=jets . All I can say is Wow!.... Hope to understand half of what I've just read and might just get thru this carb thing. I'll continue here with my layman questions. Not ready to tap out just yet.

So, yesterday I removed sliders again and doused all visible ports and surfaces carefully with Gunk carb cleaner. I'm not sure about the purge jet port with the tiny O ring, assuming it's probably cleaned thru. Applied light compressed air to all afterward.

 

Today: Pilot screws were turned out close if not exactly 2 turns. Lets give them 3.5/4 turns for now

 

Added a full can of Seafoam. 1-4 fuel levels measured as best as could given clear plastic tubing and measuring tape to center mark : SeaFoam is a maintenance product, according to seafoam and for what you are attempting the ratio is 50/50

17,15,17,16 mm to a warmed static engine, won't run steady long enough to take fuel measurements while idling. Later on...

Fired up and noticeable steadier idle but requires choke and will either stall or rpms run away eventually. Good

Also first time for slight throttle response. Lean transition to too of rich one due to enricher being open

Things are heading the right way. This afternoon will swap spark plugs from the 87' sister as she is at 100% virus free and wait 24 hours for additional Seafoam to do it's best. Any suggestions (other than benching carbs :rolleyes: ) at this point are more than welcome.

 

With regard to the thread you mention above Gearhead had quite the task ahead of him as did we trying to understand and connect the missing dots.

He was patient tho and did do his best to paint a clearer picture for us. It was when he finally posted

compression results that we are able to get a better picture of what had been going on thru many years of riding a too rich setup and no carb maintenance!

That said and at that time I was under the weather and in and out of the thread.

Later tho and in a thread by Duerron I think late December 2019 I added more theory as a lesson type post and just like that my brothers began ignoring me, again! If you can find it, are interested in the sequence of combustion and understanding the short falls it may be of benift to the learning curve.. In the meanwhile if I may suggest, take a mental vid of the throttle patesi n act while running thru the twist range. Gently slide 2 slides out of your way as you do so.

For every degree of possition change you are allowing more air flow, that is both volume and velocity. This is important to develop the next step in understanding this mix of Constant Velocity carb! That slide you slid away operated via vacuum on these, tempers the action response at the sudden opening of the throttle, from there you will catch on why it does or doesn't work!

There are other circuits in there to learn as well such as the enricher; designed to enrichen not run inplace of the pilot circuit, so make no mistake the bike is running lean cold not rich because the pilot is missing in action!

 

Hope that helps ;)

overlook my english...

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Mornin' all. Bike fired up ok, very slight improvement again day 2. First 10 seconds rpm up and down chasing rpms with choke lever to maintain 1000 rpm idle, only then can feather choke down to maintain irregular idle around 1000-1500 rpm. Choke is slightly on to prevent stall. Throttle response is minimal.

 

Turned pilot screws out 4 full turns. Set idle screw to approx 1000 rpm. At this point, it will idle, but rough, around 1000 rpm, without choke, and can use throttle to rev engine, however the revs lag behind throttle response.

Engine was at full temp and idling slightly rough at 1000 rpm without choke before shutting off.

 

Patch, after reading all threads, I understand why compression results. Unfortunately I have no access or connections to a compression gauge.

 

I will replace spark plugs later today with known good ones, nothing to lose ?

 

'SeaFoam is a maintenance product, according to seafoam and for what you are attempting the ratio is 50/50' I have added 1.5 cans to approximately 3 US gallons. I have an extra can if necessary.

 

'Now in your case with plugged idle jets, do what you need to do with the choke to keep it running, the seafoam can do nothing if it is not flowing thru the carbs, You will want the choke set as far open as you can and still keep it running so that it is using the idle circuit as much as possible to try to get it cleaned out. Run it till fully heated up and let sit over night, keep repeating this until it starts to clean its self out. If after a week it is not getting better then it probably means that one or more jets are completely plugged and the seafoam is not able to get in there, in which case the only thing that will clean it out is to remove and manually clean them out.' I will try this for a week. (fortunately the 87' twin runs flawless for a general benchmark comparison)

 

Sorry, that was a spare speedometer case reused for this project that was in the image just to confuse the issues :)

 

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Studying the manual, it occured to me there's a couple of obvious steps I may have overlooked.

Carb schematic 5-2, should the pilot screws (10) and /or Pilot air jet #2 (5) be removed to clean it's ports ? If they can be removed, are there precautions to take?

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Studying the manual, it occured to me there's a couple of obvious steps I may have overlooked.

Carb schematic 5-2, should the pilot screws (10) and /or Pilot air jet #2 (5) be removed to clean it's ports ? If they can be removed, are there precautions to take?

 

You can remove and spray carbon blaster.

Be careful not to strip the heads, use the best fitting driver or reshape one to suit, there should be a spring, a small Oring and the needle tips should be clean, fine point, and straight.

 

add a touch of spray lube when reinstalling them...

Make sure the bike is running well before you try to sync you carbs

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Mornin' all. Bike fired up ok, very slight improvement again day 2. First 10 seconds rpm up and down chasing rpms with choke lever to maintain 1000 rpm idle, only then can feather choke down to maintain irregular idle around 1000-1500 rpm. Choke is slightly on to prevent stall. Throttle response is minimal.

 

Turned pilot screws out 4 full turns. Set idle screw to approx 1000 rpm. At this point, it will idle, but rough, around 1000 rpm, without choke, and can use throttle to rev engine, however the revs lag behind throttle response.

Engine was at full temp and idling slightly rough at 1000 rpm without choke before shutting off.

 

Patch, after reading all threads, I understand why compression results. Unfortunately I have no access or connections to a compression gauge.

 

I will replace spark plugs later today with known good ones, nothing to lose ?

 

'SeaFoam is a maintenance product, according to seafoam and for what you are attempting the ratio is 50/50' I have added 1.5 cans to approximately 3 US gallons. I have an extra can if necessary.

 

 

 

Sorry, that was a spare speedometer case reused for this project that was in the image just to confuse the issues :)

 

 

Take a look at page, 5-2 for the flows, #2 air jet, see it at the top? next time you have it running block each one, one at a time, note the differences down on paper (see page 2-11 use that as a traced out diagram) after taking the notes, now spray some Carbon blaster or WD right down tight to the jet.. Note the changes let it run for a couple minutes afterwards to clear those jets!

Now we know if those jets are working correctly and we can scratch that off the list!

Lets see if we can explain the multiple things you are experiencing.

 

So new the bike came with 172 psi standard and will run as expected.

142 psi is the minimum even (x4) operating pressure.

Now what is not in the book is differentials between jugs very important to accept this as pact that exstream pressure differentials will need correcting, how and which ones can be determent by compression testing just as listed in the book ;) this is a proven easy short track to understanding why/what is going on!

 

That is the general jift of it, trust it it is well proven.

Next really those carbs should be removed and poked thru. But for this experiment you want to use chems to manage the problem, we get it!

So here is what may help:

Drain the blows

remove your spark plugs

Go to #1 air vent

Refill the bowls with Carbon Blaster

Take a small tire pump and adapt id to the the breather vent and bump it to 5 lbs THAT'S ALL!

Crank the bike say 5 rotations then refill and let sit

Block evaporation by capping the #1 fitting

Repeat every couple hours, if that won't clear your carbs by the next day, then you will need to pull them.

 

A note here: 172 is not enough compression to run with that heavy a sea foam mix, yes the plug will help flash the ratio but not every cycle and not for tuning! It is simply a cleaning ratio to be used in small volumes once the engine has reached operating temps! So there is too high a mix in your tank for tuning, remember that.

 

Next: the enricher circuit is a blunt circuit, see where I am going? The velocity at the plate set to the approximate location of the Pilot Jet, causes the fuel TO air - to atomize and lift, this reduces the wall effect of fuel slowing and separating from the air/fuel charge! The enricher is below the plate and is without jetting this is to compensate for a cold start when the charge enters the Jugs, it is a necessary inefficiency! Only after the heat of combust raises the chamber temp does that fuel circuit gain some combustion efficiency and then - contributes to the engine RPM !

 

So I hope that helps some ;)

Edited by Patch
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Swapped spark plugs, no noticeable difference.. Patch, should I top up gas tank with untreated fuel to lean out Seafoam?

 

now spray some Carbon blaster or WD right down tight to the jet.. Note the changes let it run for a couple minutes afterwards to clear those jets!

 

Refill the bowls with Carbon Blaster

;)

 

Time to get some serious carb cleaner before proceeding further with cleaning. The only online source found for C.B. was Performance Lubricants in Whitby, about an hour run. Did you find CB in a retail automotive outlet? The pucster had a few suggestions. I have a good rapport with our GM dealer maybe drop in there this week see what they recommend. Also hit up Napa and Carquest this week as they might have a heavy duty carb cleaner.

The 2 aerosol cleaners I've been using are Gunk carb parts cleaner & Gunk Carb Medic carb cleaner.

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I don't use much Gunk product anymore, but if it is a Carb cleaner or carbon cleaner that will work.

 

Important to remember that the strong mixes of seafoam can make your spark plugs wet, is why we suggest the 50/50 mix for a warm engine!

 

Other than that and from Max I suggest you follow the steps we laid out earlier in the day as was scheduled, that way we can think on the results of those procedures ;)

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I don't use much Gunk product anymore, but if it is a Carb cleaner or carbon cleaner that will work.

 

Important to remember that the strong mixes of seafoam can make your spark plugs wet, is why we suggest the 50/50 mix for a warm engine!

 

Other than that and from Max I suggest you follow the steps we laid out earlier in the day as was scheduled, that way we can think on the results of those procedures ;)

 

Appreciate the help ! I'll review and follow thru on steps advised as time allows. :thumbsup2:

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Well, well, more progress as the stars begin to align.

 

Removed No.2 pilot air jets and pilot screws. The pilot screw 'tips', springs, O rings and washers looked good. Cleaned all ports and surfaces for 3 full cycles with Gunk carb cleaner and chased with compressed air lightly.

Of note, carb #2 pilot screw came out with 2 of the tiny washers. I assume the extra stuck on from the assembly line? Drained bowls. Turned pilot screws from 4 to 2.5 turns. Left the additional amount

of Seafoam in fuel tank at this point.

 

Today, bike starts normal and rpm's run away with choke on but eventually settle to 1000-1500 rpm after a minute or two. This might be normal at this point? Once the bike is warmed, it idles rough, but idles around 1000 rpm. Throttle response almost what I think is normal. So here we are,,, motor warmed to temp, choke off, idles ok, throttle response not bad, all lights function properly, tires inflated, brakes ok, no warning lights and no error codes. What's a fella to do?

 

Took it around the block a couple of times, maybe 2 km's. Didn't take it out of 1st gear up to 4000 rpm. Smooth as silk thru rpm range. Responsive to deceleration. More than enough punch for a short ride. Still grinning :). Thanks for helping make it happen guys.

 

There are a couple of steps remaining on the to do list as suggested in previous posts. Ultimately the Seafoam will be diluted from fuel in the tank. Pilots will be readjusted closer to 2 turns if that plays out and carb sync in the works.

In hindsight, as Flyinfool mentioned, proper winterization could have prevented these problems. I'm usually obsessed keeping equipment maintained and in shape. In this case she was purchased 6 years ago as a part bike to keep her sister healthy. Stator cover was off for the last 3 years, so at least 3 years of sitting unwinterized in the garage didn't help. Lesson learned. Will post a couple of pics after the twins get dressed up.

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Well, well, more progress as the stars begin to align.

 

Removed No.2 pilot air jets and pilot screws. The pilot screw 'tips', springs, O rings and washers looked good. Cleaned all ports and surfaces for 3 full cycles with Gunk carb cleaner and chased with compressed air lightly.

Of note, carb #2 pilot screw came out with 2 of the tiny washers. I assume the extra stuck on from the assembly line? Drained bowls. Turned pilot screws from 4 to 2.5 turns. Left the additional amount

of Seafoam in fuel tank at this point.

Today, bike starts normal and rpm's run away with choke on but eventually settle to 1000-1500 rpm after a minute or two. This might be normal at this point? Once the bike is warmed, it idles rough, but idles around 1000 rpm. Throttle response almost what I think is normal. So here we are,,, motor warmed to temp, choke off, idles ok, throttle response not bad, all lights function properly, tires inflated, brakes ok, no warning lights and no error codes. What's a fella to do?

 

Took it around the block a couple of times, maybe 2 km's. Didn't take it out of 1st gear up to 4000 rpm. Smooth as silk thru rpm range. Responsive to deceleration. More than enough punch for a short ride. Still grinning :). Thanks for helping make it happen guys.

 

There are a couple of steps remaining on the to do list as suggested in previous posts. Ultimately the Seafoam will be diluted from fuel in the tank. Pilots will be readjusted closer to 2 turns if that plays out and carb sync in the works.

In hindsight, as Flyinfool mentioned, proper winterization could have prevented these problems. I'm usually obsessed keeping equipment maintained and in shape. In this case she was purchased 6 years ago as a part bike to keep her sister healthy. Stator cover was off for the last 3 years, so at least 3 years of sitting unwinterized in the garage didn't help. Lesson learned. Will post a couple of pics after the twins get dressed up.

 

For the moment I wouldn't worry much about the idle in those mentioned ranges. If for example she suddenly started to race from idle then you are chasing an air leak.

 

Interrelations in 1st & 2nd help rattle the compression rings which is not a bad idea in getting them to clean landings and spring better.

 

Is she a candidate for a compression test? Absolutely after 6 years, check out the (case for fogging)

thread see if it makes sense and its easy to do.

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