Matt_P Posted December 25, 2016 Author Share #26 Posted December 25, 2016 (edited) here is what i found so far will these work? Yamaha 01 R6 OEM Forks For Parts Straight 03-09 YAMAHA YZFR6 YZF R6S R6 FRONT BRAKE CALIPERS MASTER CYLINDER OEM #1469 Edited December 26, 2016 by Matt_P Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueSky Posted December 25, 2016 Share #27 Posted December 25, 2016 I've bought several things from bikebandit and had no issues. But, if you buy a helmet or something else that doesn't fit, you pay return shipping. Found out the hard way. You can't get a return shipping label from them at their discount price like rockauto either. I usually buy my OE parts from partzilla.com or boats.net which is the same company but different web sites. Dennis Kirk will pay for return shipping on stuff that doesn't fit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt_P Posted December 26, 2016 Author Share #28 Posted December 26, 2016 Is there a thread of what will fit? I don't have a whole lot of money to throw at wrong parts. Meaning major changes like the forks I posted. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camos Posted December 27, 2016 Share #29 Posted December 27, 2016 Is there a thread of what will fit? I don't have a whole lot of money to throw at wrong parts. Meaning major changes like the forks I posted.There are a few threads on here about guys exchanging MkI forks for the MkII's. MkII lowers will fit the R1/R2 calipers and the forks are a straight swap. Be advised that the anti-dives on the MkI are hydraulically activated while the MkII anti-dives are electric. This means the springs should be upgraded to progressive ones which don't need working anti-dives. The forks you pictured are unlikely to fit as well as 1st gen forks, stick with what works. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trader Posted December 27, 2016 Share #30 Posted December 27, 2016 A member here (Skydoc) sells a block off kit to eliminate the anti dive units. If you put progressive springs in you don't really need them. A lot of us have done that. Check out his classified ads...he offers lots of parts and kits that have all the bits and pieces you need for many jobs I would also suggest you install a "Super Brace".... which is a heavier clamp that holds the forks just above the front fender. It makes a big difference in handling. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bongobobny Posted December 27, 2016 Share #31 Posted December 27, 2016 To piggy back on what Camos said, with the new Progressive springs, due to how the spring windings are, the more they compress the stiffer they get, virtually eliminating the need for the anti-dive feature when stopping. The anti-dive works with the brakes only, and what they do is restrict the flow of shock fluid internally via a solenoid so that the front end does not bottom out when you stop. On your MK1 you have hydraulically activated solenoids which use the hydraulic fluid coming to your front calipers when the brakes are applied. With the MK2, part of the brake improvement was to eliminate the power robbing hydraulic solenoids and replace them with electric solenoids which are triggered by a relay which is activated by the brake light signal. This system was referred to as EAD or Electric Anti-Dive, or sometimes referred to as Electronic Anti-Dive because actuation is via an electronic circuit. When you install the MK2 forks or at least the lower cases from them, you have a few options. You can, as Camos suggested, just leave them in place and simply do not hook up the wires, or hook up a simple SPST 12 volt relay to the brake light circuit (the Yellow wire line), or eliminate them completely with a "Blocking plate" which bypasses the hydraulic portion of the solenoid. This blocking plate needs to have a bypass drilled in it to connect the two ports together, so the easy way is to just leave the EAD in place. There was a member or two that did manufacture blocking plates for the "vanity" crowd but my feelings on it are you still have a hunk of metal there even with the plates... OK, the picture of the calipers are the right ones, but they are the blue dots. Nothing really wrong with them, but if you can find the gold dots they are better! The blue dots use steel pistons which can rust, whereas the gold dots use lighter alodyned aluminum pistons which do not rust and are usually found for the same price as the blue dots. Keep in mind that when you do the swap out, you also have to replace your MK1 front rotors with the MK2 rotors as they are a different size, but the bolt pattern and size are the same so they just bolt right up. The rotor bolts are loctited on so they will have to be heated prior to removal. Use the non-hardening blue Loctite when reapplying. Hopefully, you know that your rear brake and one front brake are hydraulically linked together so you can not use the hydraulic lines that appear in your picture unless you delink your brakes. If you do so then you will need a bigger volume front master cylinder to supply over twice the volume than your current MK1 front master cylinder does. Even if you keep the system linked, the MK2 master cylinder was a larger volume cylinder to accommodate the larger volume needed for the 4 piston calipers as opposed to the stock MK1 2 piston ones. To finish off the braking upgrade, which is the main reason (and pretty much only reason) you are switching out your front forks, is to install stainless steel braided brake lines. The braided lines do not expand in diameter the way the rubber ones do, so, more of the hydraulic power is delivered to the calipers! There are a couple of good sources for ready-made kits. Rick at Buckeye Motorsports, and Earl, member Skydoc_17 come to mind. Although not a direct bolt up, if you keep the linked brakes, buy the kit for the MK2 instead of the one for the MK1 as the MK2 has a bleeder on the long line coming from the proportional valve to the metering valve. This is important because when bleeding the brakes, that line is at the highest point and can get trapped there making it almost impossible to get a stiff pedal! The only mounting issue is that on the MK1 there is no convenient bracket to hold the line there, so you just MacGuiver something. As far as what will or what will not fit, just bring things up one at a time and we will be glad to steer you in the right direction... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt_P Posted December 30, 2016 Author Share #32 Posted December 30, 2016 where is the best place to get steel braid break lines. Is this something that needs to be bought at a store or can I get generic ones off one of the websites? I found a set of MKll forks, looking into progressive springs (I should use OEM seal kit for it right?) . I also am getting a super brace. still looking for gold dot brakes, rotor and master cylinder. anything else I should look at or upgrade right away? Thank you all for your advice and expertise so far! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueSky Posted December 30, 2016 Share #33 Posted December 30, 2016 Steel braided brake lines are a nice to have, certainly not a necessity. The MkIIs have 4 piston calipers already. The brake pads are the same size as the R1/R6 calipers. They slightly improve braking according to the members here but are not a necessity also. If the stock brakes are in good shape, they do fine. From what I understand, you have to rotate the end of the brake line to hook it up to the R1 caliper, so if you go to braided lines, you have to buy them especially made for the R1 caliper. Skydoc is a good resource. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaseyJ955 Posted December 31, 2016 Share #34 Posted December 31, 2016 (edited) where is the best place to get steel braid break lines. Is this something that needs to be bought at a store or can I get generic ones off one of the websites? I found a set of MKll forks, looking into progressive springs (I should use OEM seal kit for it right?) . I also am getting a super brace. still looking for gold dot brakes, rotor and master cylinder. anything else I should look at or upgrade right away? Thank you all for your advice and expertise so far! I have always had great luck with OEM seals and never once have I had success trying to save $ with aftermarket. Never ever use Chinese parts on a Japanese scoot. I used boats.net for the best price on the OEM seals, on the advice of others here I went ahead and replaced the fork upper and lower bushings while I had it apart. The total cost for all those bushings and seals in OEM was around 155, incl dust boots and shipping. Ill be putting some miles on this parade float and wanted to make sure I had it right the first time around. Edited December 31, 2016 by CaseyJ955 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patmac6075 Posted December 31, 2016 Share #35 Posted December 31, 2016 ^^^^^^^What he said. Do it once and do it right, you might think you saved some$$$ with cheap/knockoff parts, but when you find yourself doing the job all over....you'll kick yourself. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snyper316 Posted December 31, 2016 Share #36 Posted December 31, 2016 I have always had great luck with OEM seals and never once have I had success trying to save $ with aftermarket. Never ever use Chinese parts on a Japanese scoot. How about Taiwaneese or Japanese:Avatars_Gee_George: parts on a chinese Scooter? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaseyJ955 Posted December 31, 2016 Share #37 Posted December 31, 2016 How about Taiwaneese or Japanese:Avatars_Gee_George: parts on a chinese Scooter? Based on my experience with Chinese aftermarket and various other products, just the thought of sailing down the highway on a Chinese bike made of Chinese parts in China gave me bilateral cryptorchidism I just remembered the phrase "Honda compatible". Sorry Snyper, i cant allow you to do this! Mwahaha. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snyper316 Posted December 31, 2016 Share #38 Posted December 31, 2016 Lol well my taotao powermax 150 had mainly Taiwan parts when I sold it. Took it to Joplin and Springfield. Very cheap maintenance. Lol Living life one curve after the other. Vroom scooting, thru the countryside. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaseyJ955 Posted December 31, 2016 Share #39 Posted December 31, 2016 Does Japan produce parts for Chinese bikes? I would guess cheap maintainance. I cant say the prices arent tempting haha. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snyper316 Posted January 1, 2017 Share #40 Posted January 1, 2017 I don't know for sure but did use Japanese scooter carb on one. Living life one curve after the other. Vroom scooting, thru the countryside. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt_P Posted January 1, 2017 Author Share #41 Posted January 1, 2017 03 04 05 YAMAHA YZF R6 06 07 08 09 06-09 R6S front brake calipers gold loaded will these work? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt_P Posted January 1, 2017 Author Share #42 Posted January 1, 2017 03 04 05 YAMAHA http://www.venturerider.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=108033http://www.venturerider.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=108033YZF R6 06 07 08 09 06-09 R6S front brake calipers gold loaded will these work? Bought these, and progressive springs from SKYDOC. found a guy selling MKll forks, trying to get a hold of him but the sight is having problems for me with messaging. i also got a super brace. i think all thats left is MKll rotor and master cylnder for the r6 calipers right? along with SS lines. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snyper316 Posted January 1, 2017 Share #43 Posted January 1, 2017 I would look under Tech pages, I know there isn't much for pictures there as far as some of these parts go. I know I still have a ways to go on my 83. Right now I am trying to clear up wiring issues on mine. But come about may I will be just about done testing another TCI unit for our bikes. I plan to buy in February and test it, So if I give a review on it before then we know it wasn't good. LOL Didn't mean to high jack your thread. Not sure did anyone tell you to rework your Computer Monitor, If not I would definatly check the connections to it and resolder if needed. You will find a right up on that and believe pictures. I had a headlight issue and it fixed that problem and several others. Also the battery warning there is a way to bypass that with a resister. I bought packages of 1k ohms and 2.2k ohms I made me a bypass out of each resister still have 4-5 I believe. Think they ran me around 5 bux for both packets of resistors. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bongobobny Posted January 1, 2017 Share #44 Posted January 1, 2017 Bought these, and progressive springs from SKYDOC. found a guy selling MKll forks, trying to get a hold of him but the sight is having problems for me with messaging. i also got a super brace. i think all thats left is MKll rotor and master cylnder for the r6 calipers right? along with SS lines. Yup... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt_P Posted January 17, 2017 Author Share #45 Posted January 17, 2017 Has any one upgraded to HID headlights? is it worth it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt_P Posted January 18, 2017 Author Share #46 Posted January 18, 2017 these will work right? and i can keep my tripple tree, just need to R2 the fork rods with lowers? 1987 Yamaha Venture 1300 86-93 MKII front suspension forks with triple tree Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bongobobny Posted January 18, 2017 Share #47 Posted January 18, 2017 Yup, that's exactly what you need to upgrade!! While it's all off, rebuild the forks, install Progressive brand springs, and replace the triple tree bearings and races... Yes, your existing triple tree is fine, but I would replace the bearings and races as I suggested mostly due to the age of them... Yes, all you really need is just the lowers, but as I mentioned, while it's off, why not rebuild and then your entire front end will be renewed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt_P Posted January 18, 2017 Author Share #48 Posted January 18, 2017 (edited) ok bought!!!! thank you so much for quick response!!!!! i have progressive springs from skydoc ready and waiting. and here are some dumb questions should i use oem bearings? and will i need a press? what is a race on the triple tree? what grease is recommended? the black boxes on the bottom are for???? Sorry for stupid questions Edited January 18, 2017 by Matt_P impatient, indecisive, leap before i think Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pegasus1300 Posted January 18, 2017 Share #49 Posted January 18, 2017 The black boxes on the bottom are the electric anti dives you won't really need them once you have the progressive springs installed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cowpuc Posted January 18, 2017 Share #50 Posted January 18, 2017 Let's see if I can help some here and not mess up Bongo's EXCELLENT advice (IMHO) he has happening... Looking at the pic you provided Matt, notice the exposed bearings up in the triple tree in the pic? Those bearing needles will have an inner surface that they roll on and that circular surface will be mated onto the stem that runs top to bottom of the tree. Inside of the tube on the neck of your bike will be another set of those same surfaces where the outside portion of the needle bearings roll. The inners surfaces would be the inside races and the outer ones found inside of the neck are outer races. I have never needed a press for doing this work, usually come apart fairly easily. I have encountered some difficult races before and used my Dremel tool to carefully cut thru them to releave pressure (common with Timken's on auto wheel applications).. Some bearing surfaces that I have done in Tranny work and engine work have found a small press fairly handy but not always.. Also, there is a bearing puller that can be used (might check Auto Zone or even a tool rental place for a "borrow" if you find you need one).. I totally agree with Bob,, may as well go right thru it while ya got it down - NOTHING worse than a notchy neck bearing on a scoot - NOTHING like brand new and adjusted properly. Those black boxes are the electric solenoid fired anti-dives you may have heard of on the MK2's. Our MK1's use a hydraulic system for this. Never did the swap out and no idea if just leaving them unplugged will mess up your build. Personally, I have had MK1's with those anti dives covered = non functional and - with the addition of the Progressives (I have ran them on ALL my bikes = cant stand sacked springs) and a good 12.5 weight fork oil - never really missed em. Not even sure where to go with a grease suggestion.. I have used Mobile axle bearing grease for years and not even sure what it is - thinking its some kind Mono,,,something or another - can find out if one of the lube pro's around here dont jump in and set us straight.. Do know one thing,, if it were my bike and I was into it that far - I would also look very carefully about grease zerking the neck so you can push new grease in without removing the whole thing again.. Cant never have enough zerks I always figure!!! LOOKING GREAT - love where your going with getting GOOD brakes - all the best wishes with the project!! PS - no such thing as a dumb or stupid question!! Cant say the same about answers = hope Bongo or one of the other guru's jump in and correct any "dahh"'s I made in the above!! Puc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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